Thread Theory Goldstream Peacoat

Tedious at first. Really got into it as it progressed. Instructions were exceptionally clear which you would expect given the whooping 12 pages of instruction.

There is also a sewalong but I didn’t follow it because it was different to the pattern instructions.  I cant tell you how scared I was at first; there were legions of voices in my head shouting “You cant do this, whats the point? Just buy him a coat” but I chose to listen to that one tiny voice that was like “Well other people have learnt how to make coats by actually making them, it might not be perfect but it just means the next time you make a coat it will be better and then the next time after that….just go for it Hila….go for it“. SO I did and though it is NOT perfect I am so happy with final result. Ok deets…as follows

Fabric choices . Used 2 linings for the coat;  a Robert Kaufman cherry plaid flannel for body and normal synthentihc type for the arms. The fashion fabric is lightweight wool. I could have bought a Louden boiled wool type which is much thicker but it scared the bees out of me due to the thickness; was worried my machine wouldnt be able to handle the seams.

Prepping the fabric It was fun pretreating the wool. I read countless blog posts and settled on the easy dryer method. Pretreated wool by putting in dryer with a couple wet towels. I measured it before and after. Lost almost 2 inches in shrinkage (Amazing).

Fit. I actually made a muslin (this right here is a sign of how I am improving as a sewer;-) from calico and had to take 10 cms off of the arms. Mr SaturdayNightStitch was very happy with the length.Lining

The muslin. Its not very flattering is it?…

Construction The view Mr SNS chose was the classic peacoat but without the epaulets.  Cutting out took well over 2 hours because I had to cut out the wool then the flannel lining…then the acetate lining. Marking the fabric was even more of a ball ache! It took probably another 3 hours  (watching The Love Punch and The Apprentice 😉 ) since I decided to use classic thread to mark the fabric. Once that was out of the way the fun began.

First of all you start with preparing the patch pockets and OMG I spent 2 hours confused and nearly gave up until Mr SNS was like ‘Maybe I could help, lets read through the instructions’. Me : {eyes rolling} you dont get it blah blah….ok fine. He looked at the pieces with me and it turned out I was placing the wool and lining incorrectly. (If I had read the instructions properly and not assumed I knew better I could have done the pocket in 30 mins instaed of 2 hours! Needless to say, duly chastened I never wil assume Mr SNS cant help 😉. He did say he felt really good knowing he had contributed to his coat. Bless him 😜

SO back to construction. The interior is made up first , put aside that you have to do the exterior before joining them together at the under collar. You can use horse canvas like in the sewalong but I just opted to interface both the front and the facing for a more stiff look. Then it was this huge massive heap to work with. I am most proud of the double lip welt pocket on the interior. I practised it about 3 times on scrap fabric before the haze lifted and everything clicked into place you know like when Neo in the Matrix finally gets what is the Matrix. I am so glad that I took the time to practice it beforehand, because you know what  now I own double welt pockets LIKE A BOSS!

When it came to choosing the buttons hubby’s first trip to a haberdashery to pick his own buttons was….interesting. Ended up buying buttons that cost more than the wool itself…..and them we didnt use them as I made an executive decision.

I do like me that collar!
Mr SaturdayNightStitch loves posing for the camera!
He wanted the two buttons on the sleeve tab, good idea I think. Sleeve head was tricky but ‘Done is better than perfect!’
Gazing into the distance..
From the side
The lining is very visible!
The back view
Before topstitching and pressing

I really really struggled with the button holes. It took me 3 sittings of about 1.5 hours each to get it done. Basically it was too thick for the machine and I could get it past the teeth to start. SO in the end I was lowering the feed dog teeth placing paper on top of the fabric and force sliding under the buttonhole foot. I would then align with the fabric then raise the feed teeth again and going very very slowly while gently helping the fabric along. We got there in the end but it was a long hard slog that was littered with many unpickings and seam ripping.

Also the longest seam I have ever had to sew was when the exterior and interior were sewn together. That was fun! Hemming was staright forawrd and I had to learn how to catch sticth , used a great tutorial on Fashion TV blog. My clapper came into its own on this project! It owned those seams.

I loved the huge amounts of steam I had to use and the smell It was so much fun. Mr SNS was extremely pleased with the end result and he could not wait to flash his workmates with the lining that he choose 😉

I would highly recommed this pattern, it takes your hand and holds you while it guides tou through the most challenging techniques. I love it. Well done to Thread Theory! More pictures….. #threadtheory

Fitting the coat

 

Hila

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Here come the O W L S! Owlet sweaters for the Twinnage!

These cuties! Purple yarn is a Debie Bliss Cashmerino Aran and the grey is Red Heart Soft. It feels lovely and soft and of course its super wash.

Owlet 1Since my last knit (Marion cardigan) I have learnt to cast on for ribbing proper! It looks so much nicer than what I used to do before plus it is stretchy!.

I was a good girl and actually swatched using circular needles ;-). (Feel so grown up now).The gauge was perfect for the stitch gauge 18 stitch to 4 inches but the row gauge was 24 rows to 4inchs; pattern called for 28 rows to 4 inches. Went ahead anyway because the pattern instructions are to knit in inches so I figured I could get away with am imperfect row gauge using  my Size 5 needles. This is a Kate Davies pattern.

In hindsight,I should have just bought the same yarn in different colours for both jumpers rather than have to swatch twice! Lesson learnt!

The eyes are a coconut shell button that looks a lot lovelier than in the pictures.Owlet 3

New skills acquired ; Grafting underarm seams,Rib cast on and cast off.

Lovely thing is that they knitted up superfast and I was done in 2 weeks.Owlets 4

An observation on the wool though. Up till now I have not spent serious money on yarn and the Debbie Bliss has been the most expensive yarn so far. Oh my word though,…….Not all yarns are created equal is all I can say! It is so squishy, knits up beautifully ; made me finally get what “Stitch definition” means. Another lesson learnt. Although I will still be using the cheaper yarns while I am still a novice. I do look forward to when I can buy expensive yarn knowing that I can knit …..’like a BOSS!’

Ciao!

Hila

Three and half year old WIP finally finished!

I started making this just after I gave birth to my second son….. , who is now 4.5 years old. Yes. Its been sitting there in a carrier bag. This was a vintage skirt find and I recycled the fabric. There wasnt enough harvested fabric for a shift dress so skirt it was. My first attempt at self drafting was too small (I didn’t think to try the fit as I made duh!).

Sat in carrier bag for years until this past couple of months when I came by it as I was looking for something in the attic. So I decided to unstitch and start again because I fell for the fabric all over again. Unfortunately I had to loose the waistband and opted for a petersham faced waistband instead. But no worries, I LOVE petersham now, it was so easy to use and it created a lovely comfortable finish without the hussle of interfacing etc.

Red circle for mismatched pattern..
Red circle for mismatched pattern..

The pattern is based on a 70s high waisted four panel A Line skirt. I used an invisible zipper which I am quite proud of because I had been dreading it. With an invisible zipper foot and an omph and ah the deed was done in less than 5 minutes flat. I was happy, satisfied until I saw the fashion fabric side……ah well….cant win ’em all. I didnt have enough fabric to match up the patterns exactly so I let it go…let it go.

This is the first time I have lined a skirt and it was fun. The fabric is a medium weight rayon wool type (I say this with NO authority whatsoever) I think and it has a lovely swishyness to it. I didnt want to line it all so I only lined the half that has to slide easily on and off when putting on the garment. I found that when I was trying it on to check for fit the material sort of clung to my leggings IYSWIM.

But before lining the petersham had to go in. The book I referred to was really good (The Sewing Dictionary I think). A lot of handstitching around the zip….looking at the pictures now I do need to improve my handstitching among other things.

SkirtI am just so glad I have actually done this and finished it. Incredible feeling of finishing something….so much that I actually entered it into the Pattern Review Sewing Bee, which I was duly eliminated from ;-).

Later,

Hila X

Swirly whirly peplum aka McCalls M6844

Saw this pattern and fell for the high low swingy peplum. I was looking for a bit of sass and I found it with M6844. I love it!🎉. Cutting out was ok.

New project! #newproject #sewing

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Watched a video sew along by Crafty Gemini on YouTube. Comes together so easily. Seriously it was so easy. I used a very stable red ponte knit. Its interesting how the seams are strengthened by sewing 2 seam Iines 4mm apart. The instructions called for interfacing the collar but I did not do that because the knit is thick anyway and I thought it would have resulted in a stiff collar. So here is what I felt like when I tried it on and wore it for the first time

“Oh no you didn’t just make that peplum cardio! Do a jig girl!”

My own mods included encasing the waist seam in a pink satin bias binding. Applied same to the collar seam – just for a neat interior. It looked great all on its own but to give it a little something something I crocheted a simple square trim onto the sleeve hem. Navy blue was the only colour I had in crochet thread so navy blue it was! I liked it. Not much else to say except that I love this and can see why its one of the most popular reviews pattern on Pattern Review. Drum roll here comes the pictures! Loads and loads….

Before adding sleeve trim.
Really trying to get that fifties cinched waist.
Worn with my Dakota dress…
Lazy eye going…
Belted for a more formal look..
Check out mah trim!
A la pose..
I really like my new cardigan top.

#mccallpatterncompany