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Thread Theory GoldStream Pea Coat Sewing Pattern Review
Tedious at first. Really got into the tailoring it as it progressed. Instructions were exceptionally clear which you would expect given the whooping 12 pages of instruction.
There is also a Goldstream sewalong but I didn’t follow it because it was different to the pattern instructions.
I cant tell you how scared I was at first; there were legions of voices in my head shouting “You cant do this, whats the point? Just buy him a coat” but IÂ chose to listen to that one tiny voice that was like “Well other people have learnt how to make coats by actually making them, it might not be perfect but it just means the next time you make a coat it will be better and then the next time after that….just go for it Hila….go for it“.
SO I did and though it is NOT perfect I am so happy with final result. Ok deets…as follows
Fabric choices . Used 2 linings for the coat; a Robert Kaufman cherry plaid flannel for body and normal synthetic type for the arms. The fashion fabric is lightweight wool. I could have bought a Louden boiled wool type which is much thicker but it scared the bees out of me due to the thickness; was worried my machine wouldn’t be able to handle the seams.
Prepping the fabric It was fun pretreating the wool. I read countless blog posts and settled on the easy dryer method. Pretreated wool by putting in dryer with a couple wet towels. I measured it before and after. Lost almost 2 inches in shrinkage (Amazing).
Fit. I actually made a muslin (this right here is a sign of how I am improving as a sewer;-) from calico and had to take 10 cms off of the arms. Mr SaturdayNightStitch was very happy with the length.
Construction The view Mr SNS chose was the classic peacoat but without the epaulets. Cutting out took well over 2 hours because I had to cut out the wool then the flannel lining…then the acetate lining. Marking the fabric was even more of a ball ache! It took probably another 3 hours (watching The Love Punch and The Apprentice 😉 ) since I decided to use classic thread to mark the fabric. Once that was out of the way the fun began.
First of all you start with preparing the patch pockets and OMG I spent 2 hours confused and nearly gave up until Mr SNS was like ‘Maybe I could help, lets read through the instructions’. Me : {eyes rolling} you dont get it blah blah….ok fine.
He looked at the pieces with me and it turned out I was placing the wool and lining incorrectly. (If I had read the instructions properly and not assumed I knew better I could have done the pocket in 30 mins instaed of 2 hours! Needless to say, duly chastened I never wil assume Mr SNS cant help 😉. He did say he felt really good knowing he had contributed to his coat. Bless him 😜
SO back to construction. The interior is made up first , put aside that you have to do the exterior before joining them together at the under collar. You can use horse canvas like in the sewalong but I just opted to interface both the front and the facing for a more stiff look. Then it was this huge massive heap to work with.
I am most proud of the double lip welt pocket on the interior. I practised it about 3 times on scrap fabric before the haze lifted and everything clicked into place you know like when Neo in the Matrix finally gets what is the Matrix. I am so glad that I took the time to practice it beforehand, because you know what  now I own double welt pockets LIKE A BOSS!
When it came to choosing the buttons hubby’s first trip to a haberdashery to pick his own buttons was….interesting. Ended up buying buttons that cost more than the wool itself…..and them we didnt use them as I made an executive decision.
I really really struggled with the button holes. It took me 3 sittings of about 1.5 hours each to get it done. Basically it was too thick for the machine and I could get it past the teeth to start. SO in the end I was lowering the feed dog teeth placing paper on top of the fabric and force sliding under the buttonhole foot. I would then align with the fabric then raise the feed teeth again and going very very slowly while gently helping the fabric along. We got there in the end but it was a long hard slog that was littered with much unpicking and seam ripping.
Also the longest seam I have ever had to sew was when the exterior and interior were sewn together. That was fun! Hemming was straight forward and I had to learn how to catch stitch , used a great tutorial on Fashion TV blog. My clapper came into its own on this project! It owned those seams.
I loved the huge amounts of steam I had to use and the smell It was so much fun. Mr SNS was extremely pleased with the end result and he could not wait to flash his workmates with the lining that he choose 😉
I would highly recommend this pattern, it takes your hand and holds you while it guides you through the most challenging techniques. I love it. Well done to Thread Theory! More pictures….. #threadtheory #goldstreamcoat
Hila
Links
theresastevens
November 30, 2014 2:10 pmI’m really impressed! I’ve been sewing more than 20 years and welt pockets still give me the cold sweats. You did such a great job on those pockets — on the whole coat, really! And what a great lining. I love a fun lining in a coating.
Hila
November 30, 2014 2:24 pmThank you Theresa! The tutorial was really good so that helped loads 🙂
fiftytwofancies
November 30, 2014 4:39 pmWow, that looks amazing! The lining is so cool. I hate welt pockets, they’re so fiddly, well done putting them into thick and slippery fabric!
Hila
November 30, 2014 11:16 pmThank you! I do love that lining too! It might have been beginners luck with the welt pockets , will have to try em again :-).
Melizza
December 1, 2014 12:01 amFabulous work! I’d love to try outerwear one day.
Hila
December 1, 2014 8:34 amThank you! Go for it! its fun!
teri dodds
December 1, 2014 2:08 amThat is a good looking coat! I love the flashy lining!
Hila
December 1, 2014 8:25 amThanks! I like it too so much I am looking at making myself a peacot next winter with a similar lining but maybe in lime! Then we can embarrass the kids by flashing our ‘twin’ linings 😉
fabrickated
December 1, 2014 6:17 amThis is a lovely piece of work, and I am so glad you chose a really loud lining. Men get so few opportunities to wear something flashy, and this is perfect – a thrilling secret that shows the Mrs really loves you. He looks very proud doesn’t he? Well done.
Hila
December 1, 2014 6:39 amThank you for your kind words. It was fun to make and now he has a coat that will last ages ; gives me and him a smile of joy 🙂
trudy mae
December 3, 2014 12:45 amputting this on my to-do list! the boy lost his last peacoat, hopefully a handmade one will stay on his person! unfortunately he doesn’t want a fun lining..boo.
Hila
December 3, 2014 1:12 amGo for it! A classic lining can still look nice too though he might be tempted if you show him an array of prints often enough (sneaky I know 🙂
purpleslobinrecovery
December 10, 2014 4:18 amWow!! I’m thoroughly impressed! Gorgeous coat on a handsome man. I just said the other day that I would NOT attempt men’s clothes. You are amazing! Thanks for stopping by my bog! Melinda
Hila
December 11, 2014 1:14 pmThanks! I enjoy your candour!
Clarinda Kaleidoscope
December 29, 2014 8:39 amHi Hila, have just had a peep at this post and I am super impressed – it’s not just that you made this gorgeous coat with funky lining that I can’t get my head around but that you did it (all those hours and such patience) with FIVE babies – do you have super powers?!
Hila
December 30, 2014 8:39 amThank you for your kind words Clarinda! Lols I wish I had superpowers too ;-); I do my sewing at night (after all kids are in bed) mostly on a Saturday night when I dont have a school run to do the next day. So I sew into the wee hours on Saturday nights. Thats how my blog name came about actually.
idaaidasewing
January 16, 2015 8:42 pmWhat a fantastic job you’ve done. Found you from pattern review, that lining is a real eye catcher!
Hila
January 16, 2015 8:44 pmThank you IdaAida! My husband chose that lining himself and he is always chuffed to bits when he ‘flashes’ his lining 🙂
Helle
January 17, 2015 5:15 amI also found you on PR. What an inspiring coat. The photos are great, reveal a beautiful garment. You make it look doable.
Hila
January 17, 2015 9:31 amAw thanks Helle! Its pretty satisfying to work through a challenge like a coat 😉
SewingByLetters
March 29, 2017 1:05 pmAmazing work! I have a work jacket in the queue for Mr. SewingByLetters, and this makes me feel more confident. I have seen jeans (wearable and at least as nicely fitting as store bought!) for both of us, so I just need to push on through outerwear. 🙂 Beautiful example and inspiring!
Hila
March 29, 2017 3:38 pmThank you!