Sewaholic Hollyburn Skirt

The Hollyburn has been tempting me and teasing me for ages now. I decided to bite the bullet and bought it during last year’s Black Friday sales when there were all those fabulous discounts! Yes I did not excersize restraint and I bought LOADS of sewing patterns ūüėČ But a seamstress never buys and tells!

In keeping with my sewing goals I  absolutely made a muslin first to check fit and whether the style suited me.  Basically I followed my own steps and voila!

Yep making a muslin helps! It took about 4 hours to make the muslin. By the time I came to sewing the denim it was a breeze. What was interesting was that since I sewed up immediately after the muslin I whizzed through the steps – they were still fresh in my mind.

The denim was originally purchased to make the Jalie 2908¬†jeans for The Monthly Stitch’s¬†Denim Never Dies Challenge ¬†but it became clear very quickly that I did not have the time to make jeans this time around. ( I did trace and cut the patterns for the jeans so at least some progress has been made towards those.)

I am so proud of myself for:

Рnot beginning the project until ALL the materials and notions were gathered,

– making a muslin,

– checking the thread tension,

– testing lightweight and medium weight interfacing on the swatch to see which was more suitable,

– testing the topstitching settings for the denim so it wouldn’t be wavy,

– doing a trial zipper insertion on denim to check if it needed a reinforced seam.

In taking all these steps beforehand, by the time it came to sewing it up it was such a pleasure and there were no bottle necks. Normally I loose momentum on a project when I reach a bottleneck , like realising the interfacing weight is not appropriate and I have to wait¬†till i have bought more, or the thread¬†doesn’t¬†match, or the buttons etc. So I kept up the momentum through out. That was quite a revelation for me!

More details construction.

I cut a straight size 8. The pattern sizing was pretty spot on. In terms of instructions – they were great, allowing me to have a very neat finish on my interior.

The only change I made was to cut along the foldline of the pocket and added seam allowances so I could use a different fabric for my pocket lining.

For the hem I staystitched along the bottom edge, turned it under and pressed so the staystitching was just on the inside. I then folded the raw edge under and stitched. So my hem is visible.

The invisible zip went in in one go – without a fuss unlike when I was making the muslin! I did some handstitching around the zip but its not the neatest. Something I will need to work on.

Now for some gratuitous photos..

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Obligatory twirl shot!
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It works well with a short jacket.

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20150129_145911
20150129_150007 So chuffed with how neat my insides look!
Hollyburn Collage
Invisible zip and topstitching like a BOSS!
Hollyburn 2 Collage
A spot of handstitching.

 

The fit is flattering and I like the length. I have been wearing this to work dressed up with a shirt and at home with a T shirt. Versatile style that fits well into my wardrobe.

I can see why a lot of people have made this skirt and why its quite popular.

Until next time when I will blog my belated January Burda Challenge make – another skirt!

Thanks for stopping by.

 

 

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Zipper issues and pattern window shopping!

So I had hoped to have finished my Sewaholic Holyburn skirt and blog it but as it stands this is what¬†has held me up….

I hate invisible zips! Grrr! #sewing #sewcialist

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So I got another zip out and will be making further attempts this afternoon when wee ones are sleeping ;-). The skirt is a muslin; my sewing goals for this year are to improve the quality of my sewing and making a muslin is a good stepping stone.

In other news I have been pattern window shopping which is one of my favourite procrastination techniques online. Vogue have released their Spring 2015 patterns. As I was having a sniff around, the inspiration to write a post hit me so here goes. I will start with the ones that stuck out..

That back look so lovely with the rounded yoke and drape of the fabric.

The first picture for this jacket is all great, I instantly loved that yoke and the panels. But then I clicked on to the other views and this. I don’t think that collar works for me.

Disappointed by the front of the jacket. If I was any good at drafting I would have a go at changing the front to a button placket and lengthen the front.

Not too sure what is going on here with V9096

V9096

It looks like she is keeping her hand in front of the jacket to keep it from flapping out……

V9089

Actually looked interesting

Looks comfortable, if in a maternity kind of way

But then I saw the back..

That back just looks…off, the panel isn’t actually in the center of the back between the shoulder blades. Its asymmetrical.

V1441

The fabric choices don’t do it any favours

V1442 just plain confuses me.¬†This reminds me of when in the morning after¬†the¬†school run I figure it is¬†a good moment to go to¬†the toilet. As soon as I sit on the pot.. sure enough.. the doorbell rings!¬†¬†I of course get off the pot‚Ķ no toilet break¬†for me.. cause I have to get downstairs and deal with the courier before¬† my¬†2 year old opens the door and signs for a parcel (It has happened before!). ¬†Sighing with relief that I caught the courier before he did his 2 second attempt at delivery,¬†I¬†look down a only to realise¬†that my¬†dress is tucked into my¬†knickers! Sigh! Seriously though is it just me who doesn’t get this dress?

V1442

I still just don’t get it.

And in case its still not clear

Yes! Someone actually approved this!

Ok on to the ones that I actually like..

You get a lot for your money here with trousers, sleeveless shirt and jacket.

The trousers are close-fitting, tapered with an elastic waist (They had me at elastic waist ;-) .I really like the interesting yoke detail on the shirt

Those simple clean lines. Love that sporty racerback feel!
The front looks very comfortable as well! This would be a great addition to my work capsule wardrobe.

V9085

Lovely simple classic! Love the neckline.

Such a cute top that I can see me wearing it with jeans, making a dress by lengthening it. V9085 is one of my favourites of their spring releases.

V9091

Interesting. I like them but cant think where I’d wear them.

V9077

Interesting take on a shirtdress.

On V9077, I am normally mistrustful of patterns that don’t have a real life model. In this day and age of digital photography I don’t get why such a big company like Vogue cant make a test garment and photograph it for all to see…..unless if it has issues and they have to rely on pretty illustrations (sewers’ paranoia perhaps?). I wish I could say I wasn’t a sucker for pretty illustrations but I am which is why this is here. ūüôā

And finally for the wild card – a pattern that is …..beguiling??..

V1438

Nice take on a classic.

 

Now I have to spend weeks deliberating whether to buy or not to buy, basically enjoying the thrill of the chase! And also finish the¬†Holyburn skirt ūüėČ

That’s all for now! Thanks for stopping by!

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Simple Modern Sewing Boat Neck Jumper Dress or An experiment in dyeing linens

I came across this Japanese sewing book (Simple Modern Sewing by Shufu-To-Seikatsusha) while browsing the local library catalogue. This book has eight simple patterns used to make 25 garments. Borrowed it and lucky for me it had the pattern sheets so I traced off the pattern! Yes! Pattern cost = £0!! I chose the boat neck dress because I liked its simple lines and crisp look. With some linen fabric I bought dirt cheap from a closing down sale, I decided to tackle the project.

Cutting out easy and I made the dress in one sitting. I used ¬†pinking shears on the facing edges but they quickly unraveled and had to go back and serge a week later (after 1 wash). While I like the dress, it did not sit very well on the neck. You can see on the pictures there is a lot of gaping there. Basically I need to learn how to fit necklines. Spent time fiddling with it but eventually I decided it didn’t matter for now. The lesson was I need to learn more about neck construction. Getting past the gaping neck my next major¬†problem the colour.¬†This dress started off as¬†a pastel like coral colour linen¬†fabric. Pastel coral peach does not suit¬†me <full stop>. So I started looking into dyeing.

On to some interesting facts I learnt about linen during my little dyeing shenanigans. I found that¬†linen fabric has its pros. It‚Äôs lightweight and cool, with a crisp, fresh appearance. But is also has its cons, a tendency to wrinkle after only a few minutes¬†of wear!¬†However one of linen’s¬†benefits is ‚Äď it readily accepts dye without too much fuss or special supplies. Apparently linen is woven from fibers derived from the flax plant,

http://www.decktowel.com/pages/how-linen-is-made-from-flax-to-fabric
What a flax plant looks like..interesting! http://www.decktowel.com/pages/how-linen-is-made-from-flax-to-fabric

a cellulose fiber (cellulose is the primary structural component of plants). Cellulose¬†fibers are dyed most successfully using fiber reactive dyes. Linen¬†takes fiber reactive dye very well because the fiber reactive dye actually forms a molecular bond (think marriage instead of a hook up¬†;-) with the cellulose fiber. I had to select¬†a dye colour darker than that of the dress. Enter¬†Dylon Tulip Red.¬†There was the option for washing machine dye but I decided to hand dye cause well it¬†was¬†cheaper. Although I did wince a bit as watching the dye go down the drain….

Side Profile coral
Before dyeing.
Red Dress final
After dyeing and adding trim. Poor weather and lighting = foggy pictures.

I think the colour change was a success and I like the new colour. But that was not all, I decided the dress needed a little something to detract from the neckline issues. Hence the trim on the neck and hem. I used my maching to sew it down with stabilizer at the back so the trim would not pucker.

Jpeg

I considered putting trim under the hem but that would have meant having always iron it out after a wash. I try to reduce ironing as much as is possible!

Full outfit Collage
Duh! I should have ordered the pictures BEFORE then AFTER! Instead its like ‘Look how it is now but look how it Was…..
Potrait
Yeah I am just gazing….
Jpeg
Drying out after a dye bath
Before and after lace
Without trim….with trim….sans trim….avec trim…..Amazing how much difference a little trim makes
Back neck gaping issue
That gaping neck!

I left the gaping neck till last since my take away from this project is to learn more on fitting a neckline especially a boat neck. Have you ever adjusted fit on a boat neck and know a quick fix? I am planing on making another one in spring, having worn this a lot layered over winter long sleeves – a spring time version would be a most welcome addition.

Thanks for stopping by,

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This Girl Can

Love this so much I wanted to share! Enjoy!

This Girl Can celebrates the women who are doing their thing no matter how they do it, how they look or even how sweaty they get. They’re here to inspire us to wiggle, jiggle, move and prove that judgement is a barrier that can be overcome.

Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge 2015

So I have a vintage pattern stash almost as¬†big as my fabric stash, yet I’ve NEVER¬†sewn any of them up. There’s got to be room for both in my stitching life …right? Otherwise, what’s the point of collecting vintage sewing patterns in the first place? Apart from the lovely illustrations of course? Since my reflections at the end of 2014 its become apparent that I work better¬†to a challenge so..

Dipping my toe tentatively into the world of vintage patterns,¬†I’m making a very simple Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge, (because er..¬†over-committing tends to be stressful…. and unnecessary) :

During 2015, I, Hila SaturdayNightStitch ūüėȬ†, will sew up ONE¬†of my vintage sewing patterns.¬†

“The

Details about the Challenge:

It was the brainchild of Marie at A Stitching Odyssey ( a seriously awesome blog if you dont already follow!)

I am working on a post on some of my unblogged makes from December last year but in the mean time I’d love to hear if you also love vintage patterns? Whats your favourite? Heres my favourite one:¬†

#bpsewvember Patterns. This is my favourite as yet unmade pattern. Have loads more but this is the apple of my eye.

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