As you may or may not know I am taking part in the Burda challenge hosted by Dawn who blogs over at Two On Two Off. For this month I prepared a pattern for a top. But then I realised that I still wanted to work on the fit of the Kasia skirt. I also wanted to see what it would look like without the flap. The flap is okay but since I have worn it a few times I felt it would be a lot better without the flap.
There was a fair bit of messing about with the pattern to make sure I made all the necessary adjustments. Changes I made were as follows:
1. Moved the zip to the back.
2. Got rid of the flap altogether (it meant loosing the pockets but they are too shallow to be sorely missed).
3. Reduced the length.
In order to move the zip to the back I had to change the pattern piece that had to be cut once on the fold to 2 pieces with a seam allowance. Did the reverse for the front – removed seam allowance and cut on fold. Being worried I would make errors I spent 2 nights going over the new construction (while watching Banished on BBC2 which is why it took 2 nights ;-). Once I had cut out, it was a quick make. It was waiting about 2 weeks for me to get round to sewing the inner waistband by hand.
1. I love the fit on my waist with the princess seams.
2. The length is much better for me.
3. The side yokes are much better inserted than my last effort and am pleased with that.
1. My seam matching is horrid!
2. Didn’t quite get the zipper in right. There is a bubble.
3. My handstitching is visible on the exterior of the garment just below the lower band of the waist.
Verdict I am happy with this little skirt and it will be getting a lot of wear. I will definitely be making another one with improved seam alignment! Hopefully the weather will warm up enough for me to get my flats out instead of having to wear wellies or boots!
Happy sewing everyone and thanks for reading!
Are you looking forward to April? I am ….mostly because my birthday is in 2 days! Yip Yip!
I cant believe its already the end of March! So here are my squares for The 2015 BAM CAL (Block A Month Crochet Along) for March. The first one is the EmmaLynn Square. I enjoyed this one, it was much easier than February’s square.
The 6″ square was the Bobbly Flower Square. Another fun little number to crochet that required crocheting in the post. That was a new technique for me :-).
I am back with yet another Holyburn skirt! I have made one in denim here and in mustard tweed wool mix here. Yes I have found a TNT pattern!
For this one I drafted a contoured waistband because of the gaping issue I had with the mustard skirt. Geo P over at Made in my Living Room mentioned a contoured waist tutorial by Sunni at A Fashionable Stitch. I used Sunni’s tutorial which was easy to follow and it took me less than half an hour to redraft the waistband. I cut a size 6 of View A and its a perfect fit. This black one is shorter and I love the length!
There is not much more to say about the construction except for a couple of observations I have made so far. So when using a lining material for the pocket I need to use a sturdy tightly woven fabric otherwise there is some pulling on the pockets. The denim skirt pockets do that and I think its because I used flimsy polycotton (the £2/meter type). Against the weight of the denim the polycotton struggles. I don’t have that problem with the mustard one where I used an old M&S double cotton shirt fabric for the lining. The pockets are still perfectly flat even after several washes. So for this black one I used a stripey cotton harvested from an old maternity top (also harvested some lovely buttons ;-).
I also used the stripey cotton for the waistband facing because my fabric was very lofty. It sewed up well but it was quite thick meaning seams were very very chunky. Zipper is higher above the waistband than it should be. But I am not bothered because it was real pain getting it on especially over the thick seam. I managed it in the end but its not quite ‘invisible’. I topstitched all the seams to get them to lay flat and neat. Even though the material doesnt unravel I decided to serge the seams for a neat interior. To finish off the hem I used a burgundy satin bias binding tape. It came out fine , even if I do say so myself.
The waistband was finished by handstitching. Its weird but I am beginning to enjoy hand stitching the finishing touches on a garment. I feel like it gives me a nice sense of closure. So far it seems to have given me time to meditate and ponder on the project as a whole. Ok (I am not cazy) but i have been having conversations with my garments as I handstitch. Nothing serious just things like “My haven’t you come a long way!” or “I cant believe I first saw on a roll at that shop and now look at you!” ” When I am done we’ll give you a nice final press and boom!” It seems to be helping with my Serious Squirrel syndrome.
Another win and great addition to my winter wardrobe. I now need to make some cotton skirts in anticipation of the warmer weather 😉
I am so excited today’s post is super short and sweet. So yeah I finally made leggings! Waaayyyyy back in Sept I made a Fall “To Sew” list and leggings featured. Well I only just got to making them – Better late than never so ta dah!
They were quick to make; I mean very quick. From cutting to tacking the elastic it took an hour ;-). A satisfying make that has had a lot of wear since! The material is something I got off Ebay ages ago and I have no idea what its is. It looks a sportswear kind of material which is firm but breathes. The insides are not too shabby either!The elastic sits nicely on the waist too.
Once again my beloved Vogue V1440 has delivered for me. I cut a straight size 8 and shortened by 1 inch . The hems were finished using a zig zag stitch (couldn’t be bothered to get the twin needle out and thread it). The pattern contains an elastic guide which meant the elastic was just spot on and perfect. And he best part – I love them, like seriously they are the best leggings I have ever had!
In other news we just had a lovely sunny day and keeping fingers crossed that spring has finally sprung – even planted the seed potatoes so here’s hoping!
Have you ever made something and thought “Well Duh! why didn’t I make this sooner!” and you kick yourself in the the behind for not having made it sooner! Well this is my “Well duh!” garment ;-). No doubt there will be loads more “Well duh!” garments in my sewing future. Speaking of sewing future on my radar is another Holyburn skirt that’s nearly done.
Thank you so much to everyone who voted and shared their thoughts on the patterns.
Well the results are pretty conclusive and its a tie between Butterick 6873 and Simplicity 7851! I think this means I will be sewing 2 vintage patterns this year!
I will start with Butterick 7851 since it looks like it could be the easier to make. For the muslin I will be using some stripey linen fabric. Wish me luck! So I will be making a muslin of View A this coming week. It may need some grading though but that’s OK I bought a Craftsy Class on grading.
I am back with the construction details of my beloved Vogue V1440 top. I warn you this is quite text and photo intensive so feel free to scroll on by ;-).
Size and fit
As mentioned previously looking the at Vogue pattern sizing I should have cut a size 14. The pattern tissue itself looked like the size 14 was huge. I looked at the finished garment measurements on the tissue pattern (the pattern envelope only showed the finished length). The finished garment bust measurement was 38″. My bust is 33″. That’s a lot of ease…I mean a huge amount. Even when I was pregnant with twins this would have had plenty of ease.
Instead I used those tissue measurements to determine the size to cut which was a size 8. Still doubting myself I prudently cut a size 10 with the idea being I could take it in where it needed taking in. But little did I realise that it would still be very loose for me with the armholes gaping somewhat. I dealt with the armholes and bust by simply pinching out the excess at the side seams and pinning. I marked on the muslin how much was pinched out. Measured and took that off the front pattern pieces and the back pattern piece. 5/8″ was taken off on each of the 4 seams so about 2.5″ in total taken off to make it fit just right. So in the end it was a Size 8 with 2.5″ removed at side seams. From a size 14!!! I am so glad I am at that stage in my sewing now where I no longer blindly follow a pattern. It would have put me ff Vogue patterns otherwise. I reckon I am an intermediate beginner now :-).
This was fun. I was very apprehensive and procrastinated a fair bit out of fear of failure. I didn’t think I had the skill to make a collar or a yoke piece. This year is all about pushing myself and expanding my boundaries so I insisted, against myself, that since I had spent money on the pattern therefore I had to make it. No sitting in my stash looking pretty! I am trying to break my cycle of buying patterns and packing them away by using what I buy straight away.
I dithered over tracing because there was so much tracing to do. I usually trace on greaseproof paper and these pattern pieces were too wide for the greaseproof paper so I thought of …hush now….cutting into my tissue paper :-o. But I couldn’t and had to go onto Instagram to hear whats what with tissue cutting. Instabuddies bolstered my confidence I went for it. Well sort of…..I cut the tissue BUT not to size 10. Kept all the sizes and did that thing where the edges are folded into the size i needed. I know I am a wuss but I am not there yet!
I used a linen fabric and it took me an hour to cut out and transfer markings. I used pencil to transfer markings as that seems to wash off well plus I can actually see the markings (I know I am naughty using pencil).
In my previous muslin I followed the pattern instructions until the collar and switched to Pam Howard’s Craftsy Class. On this one I did the collar first. I used lightweight fusible interfacing on the collar. Again used the Craftsy class and produced this neat clean looking collar which I am insanely proud of. I remembered to topstitch with the top collar facing up and it looked much neater than the first time.
Fly Front or Concealed button placket
With the collar ready to go in I worked on the left front which has the fly front. I struggled with understanding the fly front instructions in the pattern so I used this Youtube video tutorial. It was great at explaining how to create a standard hidden placket. I am such a visual person and I love Youtube for its wealth of tutorials.
Something I also like about this pattern is that the buttonholes are made right at the beginning. Buttonholes tend to slow me down at the end of a project. But here they are the 4th step after the darts. However, it was very important to have transferred my markings very very accurately. I didn’t with my first muslin and the buttonhole ended up too close to the stitching line and the fold; entirely my fault for being quick and fast and not paying proper attention. Once the front left was done I moved on to the right side which had a lot less folds. The instructions say to handstitch the first fold made but I didnt do that and it still looks fine – I don’t understand that step because by the time you make the second fold that handstitched part is not visible…?? So yeah not sure what that’s about!
Center back slit. The back has 2 pieces sewn together at center back. The instructions have you finish the seam by turning under and basting the seam followed by edgestitching. It looks very neat. I squinted a lot while doing this step. For the slit I basted the slit pressed open the seam, finished the seam by edgestitching. A seam ripper to remove the basting and open the slit which created a super neat slit. I didn’t do this in my first one and the seam there was wonky. The benefits of making a muslin!!!!.
Next stage was sewing the back and sides together using french seams. I love french seams for their neat look. The pattern instructions say to “stitch 3mm (1/8″) from seamline in seam allowance. Trim close to stitching. With right sides together, crease along seam:press. Stitch along seamline encasing raw edges” From my understanding that would create a seam allowance of about 2/8″. The pattern states the 5/8″ seam allowances included. SO yes I found that a bit confusing and I decided to stick to what I had already known as french seam seam which was sew 6mm (2/8″), trim, turn and sew another 6mm(2/8″). I learnt this when I made my Carme blouse.
Ok this is where the fun bit started for me. The arm bands have 2 pieces a back and front which are sewn together. They are attached to the armholes with right side of armhole banding to wrong side of bodice. Sew and trim clip and turn over press. Now the instructions dont tell you to uinderstitch but it seem intuitive to do so. I didn’t with my first muslin but did so with this one and it was much flatter, neater and no peeking.
Instead of yoke I did the hem finish. Pattern requires you to cut the bias strip for bias binding. This means that the fabric requirement is about half a meter more than necessary just for a self binding. I didn’t cut on the bias. In future I will use bias binding rather than using up unnecessary fabric (especially if its pricey fabric). The instructions were very good and clear on this step. The hem is a bit stiff because I didn’t cut the trim on the bias. I also used a contrast trim to add a little pop of colour.
The triangular yoke needed to be sewn to a point and I used this Youtube tutorial which immediately made it clear. It’s actually for a godet insertion but its the same principle. So I got this in and created a sharp point nearly perfect! Another bit I am insanely proud of! When that goes in the remaining seam has to be turned under ready for the finished yoke band.
For the band I took the extra step of drawing in the seam lines and basting before pressing the seam under. My V band was spot on (I didn’t do this first time around) but the difference is very clear non? V band ready it gets place over the triangle yoke and basted in before edgestitching. I tried to do something fancy with double stitching but I wasn’t great at keeping even distance. Meh… you live and learn :-).
I used a LOT of pins and sewed on the slowest speed.
Next was french seaming the shoulder seams. Again thoroughly love french seaming 😉 Then bodice was ready to be attached to the collar. Straight forward – no issues there. It was so nice knowing that once the collar was sewn on, all I had to do were the buttons and it could be worn! Used a lot of pins on the collar to make sure it didn’t shift. I finished by handstitching the inner collar. For the first time ever I enjoyed handstitching. Gave it a final press and it looked fab. The instructions are to topstitch the collar band but I skipped that – I liked it just as it was!
In conclusion (phew)
1. Check the tissue for the size. It is very very loose fitting.
2. Understitch the armhole band to give them a nice easy curl under.
My thoughts are that the collar may be a bit too wide for my liking (its a very minor thing though). I have already cut out another one!
Is it just me or is shirtmaking quite addictive? Have you made a shirt recently? Did you enjoy it or it put you off?
Its a long post and I dont normally do such long post but I had a few emails asking about the construction of this top. I promise no long posts for a while yet (unless they involve lots of pictures cause you all know how much I love my pictures!
How are you? Hope you are having a great weekend! I am super excited to share my completed second muslin of the V1440 top. Firstly fit was an issue on my first go which I wrote about here. Here is a picture of the first muslin fit.
Now on to Muslin2….
And the back yoke detail that I love so much! My edgestitching is dodgy…so is my topstitching for that matter ;-(..
Vogue V1440 View A
So whats the plan now?
I am cutting out another one this weekend and will make it with just a collar stand.
This one counts as wearable muslin.
Figure out neat edgestitching.
I will do another post just on the construction and the interiors – I had so much fun with it and took loads of pictures. So that will be coming soon ;-).
Happy sewing everyone and have an awesome weekend!
This is a super quick ‘Notebook’ style post. Its to post my notes on processes etc so I don’t loose them. I have a bad habit of writing adjustments on the nearest writing place and I always end up loosing the notes! Grrr!!!. So anyway this is a work in progress on Vogue V1440. I did a post on the new Vogue spring patterns and mentioned how I loved V1440. I had to wait a few more weeks before they were available here in the UK. When it arrived I was petrified. What my made me think I could make a shirt with such complex details? A triangle yoke!
Ok bullet points coming….
Points to remember,
1. Coral linen for the muslin. Linen was very thick on the the french seams and the fly front.
2. The collar was constructed under the helpful dulcet tones of Pam Howard’s Tailored Shirt Craftsy class. It was so helpful. This my first collar = can you believe how professional it looks! I cant believe I did this on my first go. That class is easily my favourite! <I am not paid to say this, I bought this class last year during Black Friday>
3. I mixed up my front pieces and somehow ended up with the buttons and buttonholes on the wrong side. Women button towards the heart and men away from the heart….mine buttons away. I have to really watch out for this because the two front pieces are cut separately.
4. I also need to remember when topstitching the collar to make sure that the upper collar is facing up so its neater.
5. I fudged the point on the yoke triangle but not bad for a first go. I need to read up on sewing perfect points.
The fit is very very loose. By the measurement chart I should have cut a size 14 but when I looked at the pattern to see what the waist and bust measurements of the completed garment would be – I needed to cut an 8. Being prudent and fearing mistakes, I cut a 10 instead. It was still too loose fitting for my liking with some armhole gaping. So I took off 6/8 inch at the sides and the sides and that eliminated the armhole gaping.
I didn’t bother with finishing he hem but I will on my next muslin.
Adjustments to side seams made, back pieces traced and front pieces folded in at side seams. Work has begun on a second muslin.
I do like the construction order. Its very neat and thorough. I absolutely loved every second of making this up. Steam and heat were my friends on this one – I love linen for its response to a hot iron 😉
How are you this fine March day. I don’t know what it is about March that has me all excited and tingly…perhaps its the signs of spring all around me – the song of the blackbirds, the odd bumblebee, the fattening buds about to burst, the stout daffodil stalks stubbornly poking through the ground. And of course crocuses. I love yellow crocuses.
Since we are nearly reaching the end of the first quarter of the year (where does the time go?) I realised I hadn’t yet started on my vintage pledge. In January I made a very simple Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge,
During 2015, I, Hila SaturdayNightStitch 😉 , will sew up ONE of my vintage sewing patterns.
The time has come to think of it and unfortunately I have dithered for far too long. So I thought I would take the mental clutter of making a decision out of my head and give that task to you wonderful guys ;-). All you have to do is vote for the one that you think I should make. The pattern with the most votes is the one I will make!
Given my low skill level and the fact that I have never made a vintage pattern I decided a top would be best to go with. Without further ado I narrowed it down to these 3 tops:
I love that the Vogue pattern used to be 40p!Happy sewing everyone and thank you for helping me with this challenge 😉