Burda Challenge April 2015 Cap Sleeve V Neck Tee 09/2014

Hello everyone,

Hope you are enjoying the mid week! I am trying my best not to get down about the weather! It was so gorgeousĀ last week but as I write this its has hailed and rained with gusty winds. Still it shan’t stop me making marvelous frothy floral summer dresses, skirts, blouses, shirts, etc šŸ˜‰

Anyway, its time for my AprilĀ Burda challenge! The challenge is hostedĀ byĀ Dawn who blogs over at Two On Two Off. For this month IĀ made aĀ Cap Sleeve V Neck Tee 09/2014 which is a downloadable BurdaStyle pattern. I bought this at the back end of last year during a 5 for Ā£10 sale.Ā tee

front
Spot the botch……have since sewn it up by hand šŸ˜‰

I looked it up on Pattern Review and found that all the reviews mentioned it was too short. Took my tape measure out and checked my vertical measurements against the pattern. Though it is a knit pattern the stretch doesn’t affect the vertical measurements (too much). Ā And because BurdaStyle downloadables don’t have seam allowances, it was very easy to measure. In fact I could have just lined it up against my body. It was clear that I needed at least another 2 ” length. I added the 2″ on both the front and lower back pieces.Ā Purple jersey in the stash seemed like a great option to test on.

Once I cut out the fabric it took about 1.5 hours to make it. The pattern took less than 1 meter of Ā fabric. Yay! It does have a lot of pieces though. The front bodice has 3 pieces; the back bodice has 3; the sleeve has 3 pieces including sleeve band.

insides
Grr!! Why couldn’t I just have taken out my sewing machine!!!

I only used the overlocker. Pivoting on the overlocker does notĀ work! And yet I tried and botched the front! Lesson learnt:Ā don’tĀ be too lazy to take out the sewing machine and get the job done properly!Ā I finished the hem by using stay tape and zigzagging. back Side

Verdict: To say I paidĀ Ā£2 for the pattern and Ā£3 for the jersey fabric – I am very very pleased with the end result. I like the fit. Its comfortable. There are many options for jazzing it up if I wanted to by using contrasting fabric. I have a feeling thisĀ is going toĀ be a great TNT scrapbuster pattern with some tweaking ;-).

In other news Me Made May is nearly upon us! Eeek! I went through my handmade items the other day and am beginning to think I may have bit off a bit more than I can chew with my 1 a day minimum pledge…there will be a lot of repeats :-).

Happy sewing everyone and thanks for reading! I will be back soon with more Vogue V1440!

Signature

Grainline Studio Morris Blazer : Contains graphic images of Mustard Ponte SMUGness!

Hello everyone!

Wohoo! I finished my mustard ponte blazer, had a fun energetic photo shoot with the little people and this is what I have to show for it!

But before I spill the beans here are someĀ construction deets – I finished making this in less than a day. The only issue I had was that I used normal lightweight interfacing. It shrunk the ponte ever so slightly – enough to cause some drag lines.Ā Still its come out alright! And can I just say it looks great onĀ just about everything I have thrown it on hehe.

I don’t have much else to say about this except to show you loads of pictures which may convey just how much I love this blazer! Proceed at your own peril!

ponte 6
The weather was so glorious! Blue blue skies!

ponte 3 ponte 7 ponte 8ponte backponteponte1

Love that I can play volleyball without having to take it off ;-)
Love that I can play volleyball without having to take it off šŸ˜‰
Ponte9
…and football šŸ˜‰

 

Have you seen the amazing versions that are popping up of this awesome pattern? Ā SewBusyLizzyĀ made a linen blazer with a navy trim (must make one like this) and Sha_Bozz has been posting on IG this gorgeous floral ponte she is making (must make a floral one too)

More Morris Blazer progress. Fingers crossed that I don't mess up the facings!

A post shared by Shar (@shar_bozz) on

; Suzy atĀ suzybeesews has made a colour blocked one (must make colour blocked one ) I mean wow!! I am constantly awed and impressed by how incredibly creative and talented the sewing community is! Thinking about the sewing community and knowing that I am a part of it makes me feel good about myself šŸ˜‰

Happy sewing! I will be back soon with my April Burda challenge.!

Hila

XoX

Lady Skater Dress in Teal Scuba

Hello everyone!

I am back with a Lady Skater dress that was completed 2 weeks ago. First of all, I was very reluctant to buy this pattern because I already had Moneta. On impulse after seeing this in the Boden catalogue IĀ went for it.

Makes me want to buy Lady Skaater dress pattern..#sewing inspiration

A post shared by Hila (@saturdaynightstitch) on

It was finished in 2 days –Ā a super quick and easy make.Ā The collar filled me with apprehension! ButĀ it just came out so good even if I do say so myself!Collar

It has an interesting construction that is completely different to Moneta. With Moneta the bodice and skirt are completed before attaching at the waist. Contrast with Lady Skater where the front and back of the dressĀ are made up first. TheĀ sleeves are sewn flat then one great long seam from hem to sleeve hem.

2015-03-26 22.09.20
Fold the dress along the shoulders and voila! Paper dolls anyone?

The shoulder and waist seams are stabilised by clear elasticĀ which also keeps the waist from drooping. Attaching the clear elastic wasĀ straight forward especially when I used a lot of wonder clips – clear elastic dosentĀ like being pinnedĀ much.2015-03-26 21.03.29

The instructions are incredibly detailed. They leaveĀ nothing out! No assumptionĀ that you know all things associated with sewing with knits. Its all there so that if this is your first time working with knits you are sorted.Ā I quite like that about the instructions. There is a quick instruction sheet for the more experienced sewer.

Collage
Teal Scuba Lady Skater insides

The fabric is lightweight scuba. This is my first time ever working with jersey scuba/scuba jersey?Ā  I love love love it! It washes incredibly well! You see how it looks in the pictures? Thats exactly how it comes out of the dryer! Plus its comfortable.

I am curious to see how it will perform once the weather really warms up. For now its perfect. I finished the hems with a simple zigzag and overlocked the seams.Ā Scuba presses like normal fabric. I experimented with the heat setting on my iron – increasing it slightly until it burned the fabric. I found the optimal temp to be the same one for nylon.

2015-03-26 21.46.08
Here is a picture of an unpressed seam and a pressed one…can you tell which one is which?

I made a size 3 with no adjustments. Ā The pattern sizing works well for me.Ā Fit wise I probably need to do some sort of a shoulder adjustmnt because my shoulders look like they are slightly popping out. The back bodiceĀ looks like it will need a swayback adjustment.

All in all I love this dress. The fit is PHENOMINAL!!!!! Now for some gratuitous pictures!side poser front back

Will I be making this again? Hell yes! I would like a stripe and a floral one. My little peopleĀ love this dress because of the textured fabric. HeckĀ I liked this fabric so much that when I went into town I picked up more scuba in red šŸ˜‰

I love this dress and this is what I feel like in it…a picture is worth a thousand words, or in this case a gif is worth a thousand words..beyonce-2

As always happy sewing everyone!

Hila

xox

PSĀ I believed that Moneta and Lady SkaterĀ were similar (interchangeable even) but how wrong I was! Do you preferĀ Moneta or Lady Skater or both? Or is there another awesome knit dress out there you prefer? Please share in comments below and feed my pattern buying addiction!

Me Made May 2015 Pledge

Hello everyone,

So Me Made MayĀ Ā is nearly upon us and I have decided to jump on the band wagon and make my pledge. 267 sewcialists have signed up so far including me ;-). If you want to join just click on the Me Made May button on my side bar and it will take you to the sign up page. Or you can just browse to see if some of your favourite bloggers have pledged.

Since this is my first year I am keeping my pledge simple. Here goes:

I, Hila of SaturdayNightStitch.wordpress.com, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May ’15. I endeavour to wear one Hila made original each day for the duration of May 2015′

I will be sharing via Instagram so I look forward to seeing you there too!

Happy sewing everyone!

Hila

xox

 

Grainline Morris Blazer Muslin

Hello everyone!

How are you? I am very well thank you! Reveling in the glorious sunny weather we have been having here in the north of England! This is our cherry tree in full blossom. I love looking out the window and seeing this wonderfully spring-y sight :-).

Cherry blossom.
Cherry blossom.

OK moving on to the blazer! It popped up on my Instagram feed as I was thinking I needed a quickĀ go-to garment to layer over jeans and tees especially as the weather gets warmer. I can’t wear my camel wool coat any more. AfterĀ dithering for aĀ few minutesĀ I decidedĀ to buy it.Ā I taped the pattern as the boys were doing their homework and Kumon. Its only 24 pages so it didn’t take long.

I hadĀ some pale blue linen that seemed perfect for a muslin. Construction wise everything went well together till I got to Step 16 which is where I got a bit confused. Its where you have to join the hem band to the front facing. After a couple of tries I eventually had a duh! moment and carriedĀ on. Apart from that everything else was very straight forward.

Its very interesting how the blazer is constructed. First the main blazer is made. Then the front facing and the hem facing is made into one continuous piece in the round which is then attached the blazer to complete. I didn’t understand what was going on when IĀ tried to understand each step before moving on. It was only when I read ALL the instructions to the end that I got it.

The shawl collar instructions are good. At least I thought so – although I have made a shawl collar before when I made the Named Dakota dress here.

The only other thing I made a booboo on was the seam allowance. I am so used to 5/8″ seam allowance I kept forgetting that this is 1/2″ seam allowance. Grrrr there was quite a bit of unpicking šŸ˜‰

Verdict – I love it! Love it!. Though this is a muslin its turned into a wearable muslin. It was such a joy to make this pattern and to have to make no adjustments at all makes it one of my most favourite patterns so far! I cut a size 4 which fit straight from the PDF. The pattern matches up beautifully. I am now very tempted to buy the Moss mini skirt and the Adler shirtdress!

Now the muslin is done I will be cutting into some mustard ponte and I will see where that takes me!

side
Look at that blue sky!

Here are some pictures taken today! Its so hot outside right now like need suncream hot! Enjoy!2015-04-22 12.27.28 back front

Thanks for stopping by and reading!

As always – Happy sewing everyone!

Hila

XoX

The Queue Jumper! A Refashioning project!

Hello on this fine Sunday!

The weather was fine here with a bit of cloud. The sun filteredĀ through the clouds; the fresh air filled my lungs and I felt refreshed and exhilarated. We spent most of the day outdoors. My hubby ( now promoted to Blog Manager) took the opportunity to take pictures of my 2 topsĀ made from an old dress.

French COLLECTION
One of the 2 times (and the last time) I wore this dress was for my little sister’s graduation 4.5 years ago. My second baby is only 6 months in this picture – now I cant even lift him.

I bought this stunningĀ dress Ā 8 years ago but only wore twice! It cost me Ā£79 which at the time was a lot of money for me (it still is). But that print! I loved and still love the print!

After reading the brilliant book by Marie Kondo on the magic of tidying up, I have been slowly going through my clothes and came across the dress. It sparked joy so I decided to reuse the fabric. The fabric is cotton jersey which is so soft and comfortable on the skin.

Two tops emerged –Ā a halter neck top showing loads of shoulder cleaveage and a springyĀ high low peplum full of moxie.

French COLLECTION (1)
High low peplum. Spring has sprung!
French COLLECTION (2)
My phone is an integral part of my life so its great that this top has pockets. Still need to hem šŸ˜‰

The process involved Googling “making a peplum” which led me to this tutorial on Youtube that does freehand patterns. Once I started cutting it was done in two shakes of a lambs tail. I drafted the little cap sleeves. For this refashion I just went with the flow trying hard not to overthink and be precious about the fabric.

The verdict – Ā Not bad at all. I love these tops! TheyĀ will be worn a lot more than the dress.

Have you refashioned anything recently? Know any refashioning resources, share in comments below please.Ā I have some more voluminous clothes earmarked for refashioning šŸ˜‰

Here are some outakes of me having a ball. Most of the blog pictures are stiff (self conscious). These are a little more reflectiveĀ of my energetic self! And an outtake of my 3 littlest ones who truly believe the sun shines out of my bum šŸ™‚

peplum collage
Merry go rounds with No. 3 and playing tag šŸ˜‰
Winter 2014-15 037
From L-R. Me (Mama), No. 3 and Nos. 4 (squared)

Until next time!Ā Happy sewing everyone!

Hila

XoX

Toadstools and Bunnies McCalls M6727 aka KCW warm up.

Hi everyone!

How are you? I am good thank you! I had a super productive Saturday this past weekend where I finished a few projects that were waiting for those finishing touches like buttons. Its also still half term so sewing time is as scarce as hens teeth! They go back Monday the 20th which is also Kids Clothes Week!Ā I thought I would get started early with that by making my favourite TNT pattern for my girls: McCalls M6727. I love love this pattern!

Front
M6727 Dress Fronts
Backs
And the backs….McCalls M6727

Now I have made grumpy owls here and scooters M6727s last year and can you believe my girls still wear them! They started out as dresses and they have grown into cute little tops. All I had to do was move the button further out creating a larger armscye šŸ˜‰ Thats a win/win for me.These dresses have staying power. I used a quilting cotton thatsĀ held up really well Ā and they get washed A LOT!!! My only beefs is that this pattern only goes up to Ā XL (around age 2) which is the size I cut with these 2 little lovelies.

Yokes detail
M6727 Yoke details…

Lets talk fabric – I love love love love this fabric! Whats not to love? The colours and the quirky print; the moment I saw it I knew it had to be M6727. Plus itsĀ 100 % cotton.

Binding and french seams
M6727 Bias binding and french seams

Sewing for little people is awesome. It was easier to be patient and take my time because the pieces are so small you feel like there is not much more to do but enjoy the process. I used french seams and bias bound the armholes on the dress. I ran out for fancy bias binding and only had the black satin but I think it works well. The pattern is actually for a reversible dress which I have made before here. Making the reversible dress is even quicker. I didn’t want anything to interfere with this quirky pattern so these are not reversible. Although my insides are so neat that they may very well be! Hehe šŸ˜‰

As always thanks for dropping by and happy sewing everyone!

Hila

XoX

#mccallpatterncompany

 

New Look 6803

Happy Friday! Hope you are all looking forward to a sewtastic weekend! My MIL is up from Kent for the weekend and she always takes the kids out for long day trips so Yip Yip I get a lot of sewing time :-).

But before all that I present to you New Look 6803. For the first time in quite a while, I have tried a pattern that just did not work. Ā I bought this pattern during the New Look 6803 half price sale in January. I was attracted to the pleated neckilne on view B. Its a cute looking dress.

I cut the smallest size on the pattern and used someĀ drapey polyester to make a muslin. TheĀ fabric came from from a closing down sale at Ā£1/m so I will be using it for muslins a lot. The colour is not inspirational but it will be useful.

Cutting out and sewing up were very easy. However……The dress did not look at all how I pictured it would on me.

front 6803

In hindsight the pleats at the neckline created a maternity like feel and look. Its OK but I have been pregnant a LOTĀ over the last 5 years and I am over that look! No matter which way I tried to pin it just wasn’t working for meĀ without putting in dartsĀ etc. I might as well use a pattern that has more shaping in it. I like to have some shaping around the bust at least. I think its a good pattern – I saw on Pattern Review some versions that looked great but its not for me.Ā back

Verdict: I will not be making this again.Ā I am going to try , view C the kaftan top. It might work better.

Thought I’d share this Ā conversation with my photographer.

Me: Can you take a couple of pictures please?

Mr SNS : Sure I ‘ll grab my phone while you Ā change.

Me: I am dressed.

Mr. SNS : <raises an eyebrow> Thats for your blog?

Me: Yes. Dont you like it?

Mr SNS: <scans dressĀ head to toe> It makes you look like…..<tilts head to the left>…. a sack of potatoes?….

Me: <sigh>Ā Just take the F*$King pictures.

Happy sewing everyone! Off to make some spring summer pyjamas for my boys. Thats 3 pairs of pyjama bottoms and 2 tops šŸ˜‰

Hila

Colour Blocked Colette Moneta

Hello everyone!

Hope you all had a lovely Easter holiday. The weather has been well behaved for once and we have been spending many hours outside :-). Given that its half term I havent seen much sewing action but I did finish up my 3rdĀ Moneta before the break.

One of the first dresses I made was Colette’s Moneta here. To say it was a baptism of fire is understatement. It helps that I was completely naive to the intricacies of sewing with knits. The pattern pieces had jagged edges because the fabric moved while cutting – I did not use pattern weights! There was no checking of thread tension and I didn’t even use a ball point needle!!<Shock horror>. Back then my instant gratification monkey always won out! I wasn’t going to wait for a stupid needle to wear my dress!.

The fabric was a cheap Ā£3/meter I got from a clearance sale. Ā Even though it was a cheap fabric it has held up well when washed – it has been washed a lot! Though not a bad make it wasn’t quite what I had hoped for.

But moving on to Moneta No.2 – my Xmas Moneta. I decided in December that what I really needed was a Christmas dress as we were playing host to 17 extended family members. ItĀ warranted a ……superhero costume of sorts. I quickly made this up in a green velvet.

xmas moneta

This was my first time working with napped fabric and I didn’t do very well with directionality…but thats OK because well nobody noticed. It was lovely BUT the waist was too high!moneta front

I constantly felt the need to pull it down. And during one of the pulling down sessions I heard a nice sounding rip and yep the skirt was coming away from the bodice!

Umm I was too lazy and scared to change the overlocker thread...
Umm I was too lazy and scared to change the overlocker thread…

Luckily it was under my belt that I wore it with all the time after that.Ā IĀ managed to get byĀ with the intention to mend it but am yet to get round to it <sigh>. I think its coming away because the fabric isnt meant to be dress fabric, rather crafting fabric..or it may be I just did not handle it properly. I love the buttons at back though and got a lot of compliments.moneta backMy most recent Moneta was a labour of love. I was determined to sort out the bodice issueĀ byĀ simply adding 2 inches to the front and back bodice pieces, blended the side seams, trued up and shaved of 2/8 inch on the upper bodice to eliminate bagginess around the ribs.

The waist sits more comfortably on my natural waist.
The waist sits more comfortably on my natural waist.

Decided on a colour blocked one with the roll collar in deep brown. The fabric was lush and it was an Ebay bargain for Ā£3.45/m with free P&P. So yes a great deal.Ā I am very happy with the outcome.sideI used the Moneta extras that come free available on the Colette website. This is the Roll collar Version. It looks and feel classy :-).side2

Interior Collage
Hems finished with wondertape and zigzag stitch. Wonky elastic shirring

I had to use clear elastic as I ran out of braided elastic. The shirring is still something I struggle with and just wing tbh.

When attaching the skirt and bodice my gathering is not even. I still need to work on that but I have plans to make another variation of the Moneta without sleeves and a scallop neckline.

I still don’t like the way the sleeves are baggy underĀ the upper arms. I need to shave of about 1/8 of an inch there to get rid of those drag lines I think.

back
Really need to get all threads off before taking pictures!

New technique used was hemming using wonder tape. Sewing with Knits Craftsy class recommends using that and I must say I am converted. Compare my hem with my previous one well…..the pictures say it all really.

um...yeah I have come a long way!
um…yeah I have come a long way!

 

I truly feel elegant when I am wearing this dress lols. The other day I was in Ā a kitchen showroom that had mirrors all over the place and I swear I was ‘swanning’ Ā with my head just that little bit higher. Don’t you just love it when me made clothes make you feel like that?

Signature