More Self drafted skirts

Hi everyone!

Remember my  post reviewing Suzy Furrer’s Craftsy Class? Well I have been at it and drafted this little A line mini skirt.

 

mini4
I lowered the waist and drafted a contoured waistband. The pocket drafting lesson was really easy to follow and after my first attempt I have working pockets! Yay!
mini 3
The fit came out perfect even if I do say so myself.
mini5
Fabric is linen (my favourite) and lined with an anti cling fabric I bought off Ebay ages ago for a now forgotten project ;-).
Mini
I like this skirt! More to come soon.

mini 1

Mini 2
In went the invisible zip and tralalala……
mini6
Wonky factor here! I didnt cut my lining properly……ah well Done is better than perfect 😉

After much pondering I have reached the conclusion that I might actually really like skirts! 😉

Thanks for stopping by and happy sewing everyone!

Hila

XoX

PS. I love sewing and the sense of power it gives me over what I wear but I have to say that I love pattern drafting ! It makes me feel like I’ve got the power. Do you know what I mean?ivegotthepower

New Look 6145: My entry for Simplicity Sewing Competition

He-lo everyone!

Hope you are all having fantastic week! I am getting over a bug that had me out of sewing action all weekend! Grrr! May has not been great because I have had 2 weekends in which I was really poorly. I am determined not to catch anything else. Its difficult with little people at school bringing back all sorts of stuff. And yes it meant little ones were sick as well = no fun ;-(

Even worse still no sewing but I am going to make up for that next week when I am done with all the marking I have to do this coming week.

Anyway rant over! Now back to the good stuff! I am so excited to share with you this  shift dress I love so much.

First of all its an entry into the Simplicity Star Sewist Competition. There are 3 patterns to choose from and the challenge is to use the patterns as a basis for your own bespoke creation. The only rule is that there are no rules! Using the pattern as your foundation, go wild with fabric, colour, nips here, tucks there and feel free to accessorise to the hilt! Whether fabric is your forte or your signature style is more haute couture, simply show us what you’re made of and stamp your very own style on these patterns.

Anyway it also means you get a free pattern. Well you had me at free pattern! Having chosen the shift dress New Look 6145 I filled out the form and received my free pattern in early May.

sketches
My various sketches for customizing the sift dress.

This dress started life on the back of water bill envelope where I sketched out ideas for a shift dress while in the car on the way back from a family trip. But while I was deciding what to make I had to make the muslin straight away to get the fit right before adding any design features.

I knew I wanted it to be sleeveless and I wanted it to be made of linen. Making the muslin was quick work because there were only 3 pieces. I had to do a sway back adjustment. I also bowed out the darts a further 1/4″ in the back for a better fit. The neck had some gaping which I pinned out and the pivoted out on the flat pattern to create a new pattern piece. Those issues sorted I had a perfect fitting dress to work with. Raised the hem a bit and I eliminated the zip as I found  I could easily slip it on and off. Next the design features….

I decided on a bib because I had just bought a pintuck foot and thought it would be great to try it out.The bib was traced of a bowl an straing lines. I used a pintuck  foot – a new and wonderful experience in concentrated sewing. I was in sewing genius state while doing the pintucks! It was such an involved task that bombs could have been going off an I wouldn’t have noticed! I had to cut a rectangular piece of linen and mark the pintuck lines precisely 3/8″ apart. I used my pattern wheel for this. For the pintuck foot I needed to thread my 2.0cm twin needle (I really dislike threading the twin needle). Once I was set up it took about 40 minutes to do all the pintucks. It should take less but my upper thread kept breaking. So the pintucks are not the neatest.To protect the pintucks I interlined with cotton voile and I glad i did that because it feel so nice when I am wearing it.bib collage

The faux button placket went in next. This was easy just drawing out a strip 5/8″ wide then adding seam allowances and pressing under before topstitiching on the center of the bib.

The fabric is a medium weight linen – one of my favourite fabrics to work with. I love the colour – a neutral olive and I knew I wanted the bib to be a contrast colour. Decided on an deep cream linen contrast for the bib to get a 60s like vibe to it. I toyed with the idea of a bib in the same colour but with contrast piping around it. Idea struck out because I didn’t have a piping foot and I am still scared of piping ;-).

nl6145 19
For the interiors I used french seams on the sides and shoulders while the back seam is overlocked (I cant remember why I did that). I decided on facing instead of bias binding for the neckline because I needed it to have more strength plus more importantly to create a clean finish without visible topstitching. The armholes are bias bound.
nl6145 2
It was always going to mother of pearl buttons ;-).

Wouldn’t be in true SaturdayNightStich style without loads of pictures :-). nl6145 7 nl6145 4 nl6145 3 Nl6145 1 nl6145 11 nl6145 12 nl6145 14 nl6145 16

All in all I love this little number and can see myself making more variations of this.

Thanks so much for stopping  by and Happy sewing until next time!

Hila

XoX

MeMadeMay15 Week 3 Round up!

Oh wow 3 weeks of Me Made May already gone! Phew! Here is my week three….

Friday 15th May

My Marion Cardigan over my Giselle dress

 

Saturday 16th May

Wearing my Japanese Sewing Book Boat Dress

 

Sunday 17th May

I didnt post on IG but I repeated my Moneta dressMay Day Essex Trip 217

 

 

Monday 18th May

My McCalls M6844 High low peplum jacket.

 

Tuesday 19th May

Morris Blazer again with my  Burda Cap sleeve tee

 

Wednesday 20th May

Day 20: #memade Coco top with my secind Mabel skirt. #memademay2015 #memademay #mmm15 #mmmay15 #memademay15

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My Mabel skirt with my Couture Coco top.

 

Thursday 21st May

Burda Kasia skirt with my V1440 top.

And popping a Morris blazer for a quick work meeting 😉

Popping a #morrisblazer on it😁. #memademay #memademay2015 #mmmay2015 #mmm15

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My analysis so far is that I have one pair of shoes and it gets a LOT of wear! Maybe I should make my own shoes ;-). Final MeMadeMay Round Up coming soon!

Thanks for stopping by and happy sewing!

Hila

XoX

Sewaholic Granville

Hello Everyone!

Carrying on from my last post about  Sewaholic Granville I have my first Granville in proper fabric! It took a couple of days to make this.

But first let me talk about the sleeves. Since the last one was sleeveless I didn’t go into any detail about the sleeves. I made a couple of changes to the sleeves. The reviews mostly said the sleeves were on the long side. I reduced sleeve length by measuring the sleeves on my favourite work shirt. The sleeve lost 1.5″ as a result. Another change I made was the cuff: rounded corners instead of points as I don’t like/ am not very good at poking out corners. My favourite work shirt has rounded corners too so it provided inspiration ;-).

Speaking of poking out corners, I Pinterest stumbled upon this collar method on Off The Cuff Sewing Style blog and gave it a go. Using this method produced my sharpest points to date. Check it out its very interesting. For the seam finishes I just overlocked the topstitched. I want to try flat felled seams though for next time. The buttons are from Mr SNS’s old Marks and Spencer shirt that has also adorned my Holyburn skirt pockets. It has served me well.

Moving on to the fabric. It is a busy print cotton poplin which handles like a dream. Responds so well to the iron. I love fabric like that. Its not too drapey but has enough structure to hold a crease. I bought it sometime in March specifically to make a Granville after seeing Pips’ (thegirlinateacup). I felt that it looked a little bit like Liberty albeit a cheap imitation at £5/m ;-). I also thought that a busy print without having to worry about pattern matching was called for. One sweet day I will make it in proper nauseatingly expensive Liberty!

Less words more pictures……

angular shot
Ta Dah!!
another back view
Back detail.
collar
My collar points!!
collar1
Ridonkulously proud of my points!
cuff
Placket and rounded cuff detail.
ep ep
Boom!
ey shot
Kids about to photo bomb me! Hell No!”!!!
front shot
I just really liked this shot
Granville back
Closer look at the back.
monogram
I even monogrammed it 😉
side granville
Rolled up sleeves – how I mostly wear shirts.
Granville side
Love the curved hem and how it hugs the body.
last onr
Side view
nostalgic granville
No now I am trying to be serious. Really!

Granville front happy

I love this shirt – can you tell?

Thanks again for stopping by and until next time Happy sewing!

Hila

xox

 

 

 

 

MeMadeMay15 Week 2 Round up!

Big News! 2 weeks gone of Me Made May and I am having such a blast with it I cant believe how fast May is flying by. Taking the pictures every morning requires discipline but luckily Mr. SNS is now on board (resigned to it? 😉

Friday 8th May

#memademay15 Fri-yay! Casual work attire in my colour blocked Moneta and my #morrisblazer . #memademay

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Wearing my colour blocked Moneta with my Morris Blazer.

 

Saturday 9th May

Wearing my Cropped Winter Sweater

 

Sunday 10th May

My Parisian Top and Mabel skirt.

 

Monday 11th May

My Dakota Shawl Collar dress with tights and a vest underneath…it was cold.

 

Tuesday 12th May

Morris Blazer again with my denim Hollyburn skirt.

 

Wednesday 13th May

We had a little bit of sun and I was so happy! Wearing my floral Kasia Skirt

 

Thursday 14th May

Wore my V1440 top in linen with my Morris Blazer again.

All in all a good week so far. Here is an outtake of a yoga pose I am ridiculously proud of myself for being able to do. And the best part is……..I am wearing my linen V1440 top 🙂

Thanks for stopping by and happy sewing!

Hila

XoX

Hello Sewaholic Granville the Muslin

Hello everyone!

Hope you are all having a good week! Mine has been busy with work seeing little sewing action. I do have a post about my Sewaholic Granville muslins.

I bought this pattern along with the Oakridge blouse during the 33% off sale. Bargain!

I read pattern reviews and learnt that Sewaholic drafts specifically for a pear shaped figure. I knew that there would be a lot of work on my part to fit my as yet unfigured out body shape. I have no idea how I would classify my shape consequently I pay very little attention to that when buying patterns. I just see something I like and I go for it.

I digress, ok back to the good stuff….. 

Muslin numero 1 was made up in a stripey linen. I blocked off an entire weekend to fit until I got a working pattern. And it took that weekend and more!

I cut a size 4 and sewed it up. Enjoyed the process of the burrito yoke method.

Fit wise there was way too much fabric at the back but the bust was fine. Yeahy! No bust adjustments!

granvilee muslin
Left picture showing back with the pooling fabric – swayback. Pics 2 and 3 post adjustments.

For the back I had no idea what to do so I pinched out the side seams. When that didn’t work I took to Instagram and IG buddies came to the rescue. I took a wedge out of the center back in an unconventional way.

From what I gather (after I had done my unconventional fix) a traditional swayback adjustment is when you take the fabric out on the horizontal line but i took my wedge out vertically. I pivoted along grainline IYSWIM. It made sense at the time I was doing it and  it seemed to do the trick. I also pinched abou 1/4″ out the yoke piece. Once I did those adjustments I was happy enough with the fit to move on to the sleeves!

pattern pieces
Pattern pieces that had the most change were the side backs and the back center pieces. The original pattern is underneath the adjusted one.

The plackets were a real nightmare. I have had issues with those on both muslins so next time I am using a placket template I found through a Youtube tutorial here. I cut my losses and moved on to fitting the sleeves. They were fine but I didn’t like the way the sleeves kind of dropped off my shoulder. So I raised my sleeve cap ( still not to sure what this means but in my head it means pinching out the top bit of the sleeve so the seam is sitting on top of my shoulder). And that did the trick.

I then transferred my pattern changes. Once that was done I cut out the next muslin. End of weekend.

The next weekend I sewed up Numero 2. The light weight chambray was just divine! It has such a fantastic drape and handle – cutting and sewing it was such a pleasure. I get excited just recalling how lovely it was to work with ;-). Due to the placket issue I abandoned the sleeves and made it sleeveless with bias bound armholes.

So here it is! I am very happy with the fit. granville2granville Granvilee granville 3 granville back granville1

Verdict: “The harder the battle the sweeter the victory” ….it took a lot of time and effort. There were many times I wanted to give up but it is so worth it! I have cut out 2 more already that need to be sewn up. An awesome pattern if you dare to put in the graft to sort out the fit but if you are lucky enough to be pear shaped you might just get the perfect fit straight out of the packet!

Speaking of pear shape do you know what your body shape/type is?  I never noticed that Vogue McCalls patterns have body shape recommendations on them…Does it even matter? Or is being able to fit any pattern to your body the sewing skill to aim for? Share your thoughts down below!

Thanks for clicking by and as always happy sewing!

Hila

 

xox

Added 23/05/2015

Here is a diagram trying to show how I dealt with my pooling fabric. Its not a sanctioned method or anything its just what I did – in fact there are probably many thing wrong with how I did but I got lucky and it did the trick for this project. So I guess it a lucky fluke.back adjustment

Purple Vogue V1440

Hello all,

I am back with my beloved Vogue V1440 top.

Since I’ve already made the pattern once, there’s not really anything new to report in terms of construction. I have made this before here in linen and I did a comprehensive post here about the construction.Purple v1440

I made this in what I now know to be a medium weight purple quilting cotton.  When I bought the fabric it was being sold as 100% cotton suitable for shirts. You live and learn.

Purple v1440 3
Check out that Collar! Like a BOSS!!

I gushed when I saw the colour and it was love at first sight. I brought it home; it washed dried and cut within 24 hours. The fabric has a beautiful jewel tone .. however it doesn’t drape very well. Its quite stiff but perfectly serviceable.

I made this exactly as before except for the collar. I decided to try glue basting. Spent £5 on fabric glue and also bought a meter of sew in light weight woven interfacing… Yeah I am not convinced. Either I messed up the application or I got the wrong glue. The collar is stiff and am considering taking off the the upper collar and leaving the collar stand.

purple v1440 2

I accidentally sewed the armband to the inside of the bodice. But thats ok… You can only see the line of edgestitching.

Purple v1440 4
Conversating with the hedge 😉

I thought I would be getting more wear out of these tops by now but the weather hasn’t been playing ball. I am hopeful for the summer though <fingers crossed> :-).

I think the next time I make it I will use a smaller collar but other than the fabric issue I really like this shirt. The colour is aMaZing!!  I have only worn it around the house with a cardi.

The pictures are a bit blurry because the light was so poor… ah well. I thought I’d use a different background.Purple v1440 1

Thanks so much for clicking by and until next time …Happy sewing everyone!

 Hila

XoX

#mccallpatterncompany

MeMadeMay15 Week 1 Round up!

MeMadeMay Madness is upon me! Mr SNS doesn’t understand why we have to nip outside every morning to take pictures of my outfit… I remind him that we made vows and oaths to each other 😉

Here is my round up of the first 7 days.  We went  down south to Essex from Friday to Monday so it was challenging because luggage space was very limited. I had to pack very very light.

Friday 1st May

Day 1 #mmmay15 Me Made May 2015. #ootd is #colette #moneta #memademay15 #memademay

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Wearing my first version on Moneta dress.

 

Saturday 2nd May

Wearing my couture Coco top.

 

Sunday 3rd May

#memademay15 Day3 wearing my parisian top with rtw jeans #memademay

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Parisian Top sitting under a cherry tree.

 

Monday 4th May

Moneta again.

 

Tuesday 5th May

'Tis grey, 'tis wet, 'tis cold outside but I am happy in my #memademay Giselle dress😄. #memademay15

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My winter Giselle dress.

 

Wednesday 6th May

Lady Skater dress.

 

Thursday 7th May

#memademay15 Day 7 wearing my self drafted A line skirt made using repurposed vintage skirt. #memademay

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My A line skirt.

 

I am enjoying myself with this challenge so far. Also loving seeing other sewcialists on Instagram – each time I look up #memdaemay15 I am so inspired! Lets see what the next 7 days brings and I will be back with another round up.

Thanks for stopping by and happy sewing!

Hila

XoX

Self drafted A line skirt: A Craftsy class review

Hello everyone!

Hope you are all well! I have a post that I have been meaning to get done for some time. Way back in November I bought some Craftsy classes during their Black Friday sales. One of them was Pattern Making Basics – The Skirt Sloper by Suzy Furrer.

Its an online class delivered via the Craftsy Platform which means you can ask the teacher questions and they respond as soon as they can. In my case it was 2 days at most before I got a response from Suzy. You can also see questions and responses asked by other people taking the class. I found it helpful because sometimes my issue was answered in previous questions.

The class is very comprehensive. Suzy shows you how to take measurements accurately – I thought I knew how to do this but now I know. The sloper took me a couple of hours to draft  – both front and back. I then had to make a muslin and adjust the fit. My first muslin looked like this:

moulage
Suzy has you draft a moulage which a close fitting skirt with no ease at all. Its supposed to fit like a second skin so those puddles on the back are a no no.

Most of my adjustments involved shaving off 1/8″ here and there. I also had to move my front darts 1″ towards the side seams to get rid of the drag lines  across the back. I had kept on pinching out fabric at the side seams but it had the drag lines regardless of how tight it got. A simple shifting of the darts and everything dissolved into a smooth fit. Amazing!

Once the adjustments were made on the muslin I transfered them to the sloper. I started off making my sloper using a thick white paper from old wallpaper. When making the sloper you will need to preserve it since you trace from it when staring a new design. I am glad I did this because I didn’t have to retrace it onto sturdier paper.

From there I drafted my first A line skirt. The class includes excersizes on drafting an A line skirt, bias flare skirt and circle skirt among others. There are excersizes on drafting pleats, peplums, flounces, empire line skirt, pencil line skirt, knit skirt. She also covers the different types of waistbands – straight, lowered, contoured, faced and contoured waist bands. Oh and there is also an easy pocket instruction.

There are so many different types of skirts to make. I am having fun with it. Here is my A line skirt with a faced waistband and lining. I made it in pale blue/aqua linen. Its lined to reduce wrinkling. Suzy also advocates lining your skirts because they always hang better. And I have to say I am a convert! I just love this skirt and slipping it on and off is such a pleasure:-)

lining
Wearing it inside out to show the lining. Very pleased with the look of a lined skirt.
back
Used an invisible zip.
A Line skirt
The front dart is closer to the side seam and that creates a smooth tummy fit.
A line skirt 1
Though it is lined – linen still wrinkles!!!

sideMy verdict

I highly recommend this class if you want to be able to make great fitting skirts. But its not just that. I have found that I understand the architecture of a skirt a lot more and can apply that to other sewing patterns. 

I mean I have  developed a really good understanding of where the darts need to be in order to achieve a smooth fit. I also have the sloper which I can just place under or over the sewing pattern to see how much the pattern needs to be adjusted by in order to fit the way I like. I would say this class has upped my game when it comes to making skirts ; £12.50 well spent.

The only fly in the ointment for me is the paranoia that one day these classes may not be available. Crafsty promises lifetime access but reading the small print it does say ‘Craftsy’s lifetime’ so I don’t know what that means if they get bought by someone else. I worry sometimes about this because I really like this class and find it so useful! Ah well..

I am also doing the bodice class which I will review when I am done with making the sloper.

Are there any Craftsy or other online classes you thought were money well spent? Did you feel they upped your sewing game? Please share in comments below. I love discovering new classes (makes a change from buying sewing patterns and fabric! 😉

Thanks for stopping by and happy sewing!

Hila

x0x

 

Here come the O W L S! Another Owlet sweater!

Hello everyone!

I hope you are all as excited as I am about the May bank holiday! We are going away for the first time  as the whole clan of 7…yes 7 of us! Eeek! Trying to pack light for 5 kids is….challenging;-) But never mind that.

I love knitting :-). However since I have got more into sewing my knitting has suffered <sad face here>. I squeeze it in here and there though. Which is why it took me nearly 2 months to finish the cute OwlS sweater for No.2. Seriously though could this pattern be any cuter? Its also so fast and easy to sew up (when not knitting for less than an hour a week that is).

He is the one into crafting and he requested that I ‘yarn’ him something. At five years old he has very distinct ideas about what styles he likes so he chose this yarn and designed the colour blocking himself! Well I could only do as requested and here we are. Voila!

ozyo

I didn’t put any button eyes in because as I was weaving in the ends he came to wait for it. As soon as the last yarn end was snipped off (by him) he put it on straightaway. It was nice to see how happy he was with it and he has been wearing a lot since then. oz

I made this before last year in November for the twinnage here so I dont have much else to say really. This is such a cute pattern which is worth it. I will knit up more owls for the twinnage in another year when they have outgrown the ones they have now.

Also made for the boys were these pyjama bottoms – again fabric selection by him. Doesn’t he have such good taste?

New Look 6170 Pyjama bottoms
New Look 6170 Pyjama bottoms

Now what I need to do is finish my Owls sweater which I started last year……

Thanks so much for stopping by and until next time….

Happy knitting

Hila

XoX