Hello Sewaholic Granville the Muslin

Hello everyone!

Hope you are all having a good week! Mine has been busy with work seeing little sewing action. I do have a post about my Sewaholic Granville muslins.

I bought this pattern along with the Oakridge blouse during the 33% off sale. Bargain!

I read pattern reviews and learnt that Sewaholic drafts specifically for a pear shaped figure. I knew that there would be a lot of work on my part to fit my as yet unfigured out body shape. I have no idea how I would classify my shape consequently I pay very little attention to that when buying patterns. I just see something I like and I go for it.

I digress, ok back to the good stuff….. 

Muslin numero 1 was made up in a stripey linen. I blocked off an entire weekend to fit until I got a working pattern. And it took that weekend and more!

I cut a size 4 and sewed it up. Enjoyed the process of the burrito yoke method.

Fit wise there was way too much fabric at the back but the bust was fine. Yeahy! No bust adjustments!

granvilee muslin
Left picture showing back with the pooling fabric – swayback. Pics 2 and 3 post adjustments.

For the back I had no idea what to do so I pinched out the side seams. When that didn’t work I took to Instagram and IG buddies came to the rescue. I took a wedge out of the center back in an unconventional way.

From what I gather (after I had done my unconventional fix) a traditional swayback adjustment is when you take the fabric out on the horizontal line but i took my wedge out vertically. I pivoted along grainline IYSWIM. It made sense at the time I was doing it and  it seemed to do the trick. I also pinched abou 1/4″ out the yoke piece. Once I did those adjustments I was happy enough with the fit to move on to the sleeves!

pattern pieces
Pattern pieces that had the most change were the side backs and the back center pieces. The original pattern is underneath the adjusted one.

The plackets were a real nightmare. I have had issues with those on both muslins so next time I am using a placket template I found through a Youtube tutorial here. I cut my losses and moved on to fitting the sleeves. They were fine but I didn’t like the way the sleeves kind of dropped off my shoulder. So I raised my sleeve cap ( still not to sure what this means but in my head it means pinching out the top bit of the sleeve so the seam is sitting on top of my shoulder). And that did the trick.

I then transferred my pattern changes. Once that was done I cut out the next muslin. End of weekend.

The next weekend I sewed up Numero 2. The light weight chambray was just divine! It has such a fantastic drape and handle – cutting and sewing it was such a pleasure. I get excited just recalling how lovely it was to work with ;-). Due to the placket issue I abandoned the sleeves and made it sleeveless with bias bound armholes.

So here it is! I am very happy with the fit. granville2granville Granvilee granville 3 granville back granville1

Verdict: “The harder the battle the sweeter the victory” ….it took a lot of time and effort. There were many times I wanted to give up but it is so worth it! I have cut out 2 more already that need to be sewn up. An awesome pattern if you dare to put in the graft to sort out the fit but if you are lucky enough to be pear shaped you might just get the perfect fit straight out of the packet!

Speaking of pear shape do you know what your body shape/type is?  I never noticed that Vogue McCalls patterns have body shape recommendations on them…Does it even matter? Or is being able to fit any pattern to your body the sewing skill to aim for? Share your thoughts down below!

Thanks for clicking by and as always happy sewing!




Added 23/05/2015

Here is a diagram trying to show how I dealt with my pooling fabric. Its not a sanctioned method or anything its just what I did – in fact there are probably many thing wrong with how I did but I got lucky and it did the trick for this project. So I guess it a lucky fluke.back adjustment


56 thoughts on “Hello Sewaholic Granville the Muslin

  1. 1. Are your hips in line with your shoulders? You may be a rectangle. If not, you could be a pear I think. I know the Hollyburn really suits you! I think I’m a pear. This month’s edition of Sew magazine has a fit supplement which has a lot of info about body shapes!
    2. I’ve been thinking about buying this pattern recently. Now you’ve said I missed the sale I’m not so keen to pay full price though! (I’m like that with everything – love a bargain, hate full price!!)
    3. The fit in the end looks spot on! How you did the back adjustment may not have been the proper way but it worked so what the hell!
    4. I can’t keep up with your sewing achievements!! Haha 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Mmmm my shoulders are slightly broader than my hips. I do love the Hollyburn (made another one 2 weeks ago 😉 I amy be pear bottom side..thanks for the Sew magazine heads up – will check it out. I don’t like paying full price either – they have sales every so often so I am sure it will pop up soon.

      Liked by 1 person

  2. This pattern is on my mile long list of things to make. I am a pear shape but I still think I’m going to need lots of fit adjustments. I know the sleeves are slim and my arms don’t fit that description so I’ll have some work to do there. Your sleeveless top looks great! I’m looking forward to seeing your next versions.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Its good to know what things to look out for when starting on a new pattern isnt it?. I read quite a lot of reviews from fellow bloggers who considered themselves to be pear shaped and they had fewer alterations. It really is a lovely shirt though and with your excellent taste in fabric I cant wait to see what you come up with :-).


    1. thanks for sharing this link! I clicked through last night and have been reading every chance i get! Its very detailed and illuminating. Like I finally get why the low rise Miss Sixty jeans just did not work for me! Thank again for this!


  3. Well done with the fitting, I’ve only done 1 FBA so can’t comment on how you’ve done it, but it’s worked so that’s the main thing! Love the striped fabric in your first muslin, are you planning a striped one ‘for real’? 😀

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Nicely done with the fit alterations! I am definitely pear shaped, but I love taking patterns whose RTW counterpart would never fit me, and making it to fit my shape. Having a smaller upper body proportionally to my hips means that things are either tight on my hips or saggy on my chest. Love that I can sew and have the ability to make whatever silhouette I want work for me!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Sewing is absolutely fantastic like that! Wearing clothes that fit and don’t shift feels awesome. That’s one of the reason why I have completely gone off RTW.


  5. I bought the Oakridge top and the Hollyburn skirt when they were on sale. You did such a nice job with your Hollyburns I just couldn’t resist. I like the body shapes on patterns. Sometimes I get hooked on a certain pattern just because of how it looks on the slim model. It is nice to have the body shapes as a reminder that it just might not be for me!

    Liked by 1 person

  6. Awesome fit! I guess I’ve been under a rock because I didn’t even know that McCall patterns have body shape recommendations on them! Lol I do think if you are a certain shape, I as well am a pear shape than the fit will most likely be closer and you will have less altering to do.
    Did you use your bodice moulage to help with any of the alterations? I also have a sway back problem all the time and had to pinch out fabric horizontally blending to zero at the side seams. I am trying to picture what you mean by taking it out vertically, and how that would get rid of it?

    The top is gorgeous, the buttons are cute!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks hun! I didn’t use the moulage (still working on it). WHat I did was similar to lengthening and bowing a back fish eye dart. So I pinned the excess along the center back of the shirt then took that out on the pattern piece by cutting parallel to the grain line and pivoting. I think I have some pictures that I can add to the post. I will do that and tag you when I do. I am away till Sunday so it will probably be Monday 🙂

      Liked by 1 person

      1. Ok cool I am not sure if I did mine right because once I pinch out fabric just from the CB and blend to zero on the side seams it pivots the pattern out of alignment and not sure how to realign the vertical darts. I have some pics I sent the instructor trying to ask her about this but she never really explained it. I may send them to you as well maybe since your taking the same course you may have some ideas 🙂

        Liked by 1 person

      2. Yes but you dont have to send pictures I should be able to see them on the Craftsy platform if you tell me where you asked your questio n. Whats your craftsy username?

        Liked by 1 person

  7. That fit is spot on! It was definitely worth all of the work you put into it. I want to eventually buy and make the Granville. I hope I don’t need many adjustments since I’m pear shaped-ish anyway.

    I also like how you changed up the buttons. Very cute!

    Liked by 1 person

  8. It’s gorgeous! I guess you didn’t do a proper swayback adjustment, but I did the same when I made the adjustments for the (only) dress I made – I lengthened the back darts and it seemed just fine. Glad to see it’s worked for you, too.

    I mainly use vintage patterns, which I don’t think have body shapes on them. I’m not sure they would really have much of an influence on me if they did, though.

    Liked by 1 person

  9. I don’t think the style recommendations on patterns are very reliable. Often they claim it will suit everyone. It’s mainly about marketing.

    I would say your figure is semi shaped – you have a waist but not a very defined one. Your shoulders are fairly broad and your hips are curved but not excessively. So neither straight, nor curved (hour glass/pear shaped). You can get away with most shapes but avoid extremes.

    Liked by 1 person

  10. Wow, you resolved the issue with the back of the blouse very well. The fit is perfect. Also, I think you got great experience in working with stripes. I have never seen a solution for sway back such as the one described here. There’s always something new to learn.

    As for body shape, I don’t know what mine is called. I’m a Misses 4 on top and a 6 on the bottom. It’s not pear. Mostly people tell me I’m the sloping shoulders type since this is the biggest fitting problem I have with manufactured clothing.

    So long as one learns the proper alterations they need they’ll learn how to fit the garment so well that the imperfections in body shape won’t be noticed–if they select the right style and colors.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I like what you say about slecting the right style and colours. When I started sewing I got a bit hung up on wanting to have a ‘style’ and sewing to that style. I quickly realised that I didnt know what my style was (apart from comfy which tended to be frumpy at times). So I decided that the first few years of my sewing will be about exploring different styles and silhouettes – I reckon along the way I will find my style.

      Liked by 1 person

    1. I have most of her patterns too but just not enough time in the day to sew! So far I have loved loved the Hollyburn and Gabriola. Now adding Granville to that list😃


  11. Hi Hila,

    I’m impressed with how well your end result fits!! You got the pattern modifications nailed!!
    It’s interesting that the contrast placket in the muslin looks almost like a tie!
    Very nice Granvilles! 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

  12. Wow! Everyone is here talking about body shapes….who cares? (but as for me, since I’m a tween I’m basically straight and skinny) All that matters is that the top looks amazing on you.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks Abigail! I had never really stopped to think.about it even though I am in my 30s now😀. I am not about to start worrying about it either😄


  13. Ok Hila my user name for craftsy is nicole.gr1444758 and I posted my question in lesson 9 Truing the Sloper its the one with 35 replies. I know right, Yikes!! I wanted to send her a lot of pics and I spent so much time on these pictures with text to try and explain to her my dilemma and you will also notice that she never really answered my question or maybe I wasn’t clear.

    Thanks again for taking a look 🙂


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