Sewaholic + Mouse House Creations = Julia Hollyburn

Hello!

I am super excited to share my makes for The Monthly Stitche’s Indie Pattern Month separates competition. This post is quite photo and text intensive so I am just going to get right into it. If you don’t have time to read through or like me struggle with uber long posts here it all is in a nutshell! There are loads of pictures further down 🙂

I’d also love to hear what you think of this post format where I put all text first then all the pictures at the end. Trying something new. Enough dilly dallying – on to the good stuff 🙂PicMonkey Collage

Sewaholic Holyburn in Barkcloth

I love a Holyburn I have made 4 Holyburns so far here. This one was inspired by Beth’s (AfterDarkSewing) Ruby dress. I loved the navy and white colour and how it worked on the circle skirt part. I never did find a similar navy and white spot fabric I liked but I did come across this Time Warp Cloud 9 Navy ripple barkcloth. Image source: cloud9fabrics.com/

Since I have already made this pattern before I was able to  focus on constructing it with tulle. I have never used tulle before.I did Suzy Furrer’s Skirt Drafting class and she shows some of her A line flare skirts that hang so beautifully. She advises using tulle to lift a flare skirt especially if you are using a heavyish fabric.

I really wanted to showcase the fabric. I bought 1.25m  and just managed to squeeze in a Holyburn sans the pockets. There was not enough fabric to do the pockets but that’s OK because pattern matching would have been a nightmare. Instead it would have side seam pockets using the pocket pattern piece from  Moneta. I cut the front piece on the fold instead of having 2 pieces. I had to remember to not cut out the pocket so to be on the safe side I put a post it note on the pattern before I started cutting! When you have made a pattern this many times it very easy to just go on autopilot 😉

Now the cutting of the fabric has its own little drama worthy of a separate post but I will try to condense. Barkcloth has quite a loose weave and stretches like mad when cut on the bias. In addition, because of its loose weave it frays and unravels…quickly. Tarry at your peril she unravels faster than Lindsay Lohan. I didn’t overlock before prewash so I lost some length :-(. Ah well. It made me change my approach to finishing the seams. Basically I would cut out a piece and off it  went to the overclocker straight away  before cutting out the next piece etc. After steaming to set the overlocked edge I staystitched each individual piece. Even with all these precautions it still stretched out! I spent ages trying to get perfect pattern matching on the back seam but by the time I got to inserting the zip there was about an inch excess fabric…could have had perfect pattern matching but poor fit…which to choose? Ack! Decisions decisions! Can you guess which I chose?

I lost all my marks since I serged the edges straight away. Without the pockets, the pattern pieces are so similar. I got round it but it’s something to think about before cutting and serging. Next time I will use pins.

Next up, the waistband was cut on bias and ironed out. I was ironing out the stretch before applying fusible interfacing. The waistband would be unstable otherwise. OMG the waist band kept stretching and lengthening until it had about 1/3 extra length. Once interfaced it was good to go.

Next on the list was sorting out the side seam pockets. The material for pocket bags is the same as the lining material used for the skirt. I didn’t want to add bulk. I love the luxurious feel of the lining but my gosh it was a slippery thing! Well worth it though for the beautiful feel of silk. Its a synthetic silk.

The tulle is nice and lightweight used for bridal wear. I cut 2 layers of tulle exactly like the pattern and made them up separately before attaching at the waistband. The tulle went in before the lining. The tulle also acted as a stabiliser when I inserted the invisible zip. Used Nicole’s (Sewing with Scooby Snacks) tutorial and achieved a near perfect seam alignment! To reduce bulk at waist I used petersham ribbon which is a fab fab invention! Again this is worthy of its own post but I will try to be succint. Petersham = awesome!!!!!! I used A Challenging Sew’s tutorial here. A good resource worth bookmarking.

The skirt had to be hung up for 2-3 days for the barkcloth and lining to drop. Its cut on bias so it needed to release its stretch. Hem finished with a red bias binding for pop of colour.

Verdict I love love love this skirt!

Mouse House Creations  Julia cardigan

 

I will start of by saying you can never have too many cardigans. When I saw this pattern for the Julia Cardigan my fate was sealed. It was one of those purchases I didn’t even have to think twice about. And I’m SO pleased I got it!  Its quick to sew up and entirely completed on the overlocker.  I chose the 3/4 sleeve with a doubled-over collar (to avoid the need to hem). I love a pattern that doesn’t require any hemming.

I don’t actually know what the fabric is – it looks like an interlock knit. Its been in my stash for yonks now. It was only 1m but I managed to squeeze in a cardie. You need 4 of the collar pieces and lets just say that 2 of them are off grain!

Ok more deets on Julia: its sized XS – 3XL…how awesome is that! The cardigan drapes around the waist creating a lovely curved shape.   It also drapes so prettily around the neck

Size wise: I cut a small, based on my high bust measurement. It’s flattering without being too tight. Though I’m really happy with the fit when I make it again I will do a slight broad shoulder adjustment.

The instructions were really clear and easy to follow with a photo for every step. They also include tips on how to customize the fit to your own body. I love this about the instructions – I am such a visual person.

I would say that this is a beginner pattern with really basic construction: 1.sew shoulders,  2.attach sleeves in the flat,  3. sew side seams, 4. add cuffs, 5.the collar. The longest bit was sewing on the collar. I took me less than 2 hours to make this and that was because I was trying to make sure I didn’t muck anything up. I am looking forward to the second one because I know it will be faster to sew up. Oh and did I mention I made the doubled up hem version…so there is absolutely no hemming involved 😉 Yeah!!  If you aren’t crazy about hemming knits this option is lovely!!

That’s it! This cardigan is beyond comfy. I think this is a great pattern!  It ticks so many boxes.

Do you have any good cardigan patterns that you would recommend?  I feel like I am only scratching the surface of whats available to sew….

Now for the pictures. Double Sewaholic because I am wearing my Granville sleeveless shirt as well :-).

!

Chatting with the kids through the window

Thanks so much for stopping by and checking out my little space on the interweb!

Happy sewing!

Hila

XoX

#IPM2015

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67 thoughts on “Sewaholic + Mouse House Creations = Julia Hollyburn

  1. Love love love love love it all! I’m glad to be of inspiration because that blue/white fabric is GORGEOUS! I have to try this Petersham ribbon everyone talks about! Your cardigan is fan as they always are – red is your colour! Or at least one of them! Have you made the Oslo cardigan? I haven’t but have seen it … Oh and hahaha I’m still laughing at the Lindsey Logan line!!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I havent tried that yet. Its a Seamwork pattern right? Thanks for your lovely comment. Petersham ribbon is great. I am doing a post on hiw I got on with it- there was too much to write in one post😃

      Liked by 1 person

  2. Woohoo – Hila’s got some new shoes! Have you pinched Sew Deputy’s Blog Manager? Lots of new things in your post for me: petersham, hanging for days, tulle – all really interesting AND the finished results are FAB. You always have such good photos and look like you’re having fun so congrats and thanks to (presumably) Mr SNS too. Happy Sunday!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Yes I do! After MMM15 it was clear I should give my son his shoes back and get a pair of my own😃. After much dithering I settled on these and I am pleased as punch. Oh and HUGE congratulations on winning the IPM dresses week! Your Frida Kim is a triumph!🏆

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  3. Your photographs are so beautiful and full of joy. Nice weather, great outfit and gorgeous model. You have chosen such great patterns, colours and shapes. You look amazing and your commentary shows just how much learning you have had and are passing on to others. Lovely post – thank you. And I agree about the shoes.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks Kate! Your kind words mean so much to me. I am learning so much – not just construction techniques but also developing a sense of style and what goes. We were lucky with the weather; we did the photos early morning around 6am and by 9am it was ☔ raining!

      Liked by 1 person

  4. You look gorgeous and happy, as you always do. The outfit looke great, I’m not sure what you decided about the center back – to me it looks like it’s well fitted and the seam is as matched as it could be on an agled seam.
    I love the shoes so much, I have a pair too 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Glad you like the links. I find it frustrating reading a post that refers to something they used but then I have to remember to google it! And the links are there for me as well to come back to😃.

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  5. Completely gorgeous outfit! I seem to find the things that give me so much trouble to sew end up being my favourite things to wear! I love the shoes btw, I’ve had my finger over the ‘add to basket’ button on these for a couple of weeks now, you may have just pushed me over the edge! 😊

    Liked by 1 person

  6. The barkcloth you used is beautiful, it sounds quite intimidating to work with but wow so pretty, I love all the details of your skirt, it is so lovely. Paired with the red cardigan what a fantastic outfit. Thanks for the mention in your blog too 😉 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

  7. I’m a bit behind everyone else in commenting on this post as I was away for the weekend so I can only echo what has already been said. Fabulous skirt, fabulous cardigan, fabulous shoes! The photos are also amazing – you look stunning in that outfit.

    Liked by 1 person

  8. The tulle inner-slip is brilliant! Gives your skirt such a pretty line. I’ve sewn barkcloth in the past, it really is a challenging fabric. And the Julia – I keep thinking about making it, just afraid it will be too skimpy across a full bust. Yours in red is just lovely.

    Liked by 1 person

  9. I am really impressed by your patience and the work that went into your barkcloth skirt. I must admit I haven’t heard of the fabric before, so now I will be aware of its foibles if I see it for sale! Thanks for a fun read!

    Liked by 2 people

  10. That skirt is da bomb – construction sounded well technical!! I’m totally joining you in the Hollyburn love-in. I’m on my second in denim and then will be exploring it in other fabrics. It’s truly the gift that keeps on giving is that pattern. The whole outfit is awesome – style diva 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

  11. I love everything right down to your shoes! I’m on the lookout for a cardigan pattern so thanks for letting me know about this one, I’d never seen it before. I’m meant to be knitting one but sewing is so much faster!

    Liked by 1 person

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