I am super excited to share my makes for The Monthly Stitche’s Indie Pattern Month separates competition. This post is quite photo and text intensive so I am just going to get right into it. If you don’t have time to read through or like me struggle with uber long posts here it all is in a nutshell! There are loads of pictures further down 🙂
I love a Holyburn I have made 4 Holyburns so far here. This one was inspired by Beth’s (AfterDarkSewing) Ruby dress. I loved the navy and white colour and how it worked on the circle skirt part. I never did find a similar navy and white spot fabric I liked but I did come across this Time Warp Cloud 9 Navy ripple barkcloth. Image source: cloud9fabrics.com/
Since I have already made this pattern before I was able to focus on constructing it with tulle. I have never used tulle before.I did Suzy Furrer’s Skirt Drafting class and she shows some of her A line flare skirts that hang so beautifully. She advises using tulle to lift a flare skirt especially if you are using a heavyish fabric.
I really wanted to showcase the fabric. I bought 1.25m and just managed to squeeze in a Holyburn sans the pockets. There was not enough fabric to do the pockets but that’s OK because pattern matching would have been a nightmare. Instead it would have side seam pockets using the pocket pattern piece from Moneta. I cut the front piece on the fold instead of having 2 pieces. I had to remember to not cut out the pocket so to be on the safe side I put a post it note on the pattern before I started cutting! When you have made a pattern this many times it very easy to just go on autopilot 😉
Now the cutting of the fabric has its own little drama worthy of a separate post but I will try to condense. Barkcloth has quite a loose weave and stretches like mad when cut on the bias. In addition, because of its loose weave it frays and unravels…quickly. Tarry at your peril she unravels faster than Lindsay Lohan. I didn’t overlock before prewash so I lost some length :-(. Ah well. It made me change my approach to finishing the seams. Basically I would cut out a piece and off it went to the overclocker straight away before cutting out the next piece etc. After steaming to set the overlocked edge I staystitched each individual piece. Even with all these precautions it still stretched out! I spent ages trying to get perfect pattern matching on the back seam but by the time I got to inserting the zip there was about an inch excess fabric…could have had perfect pattern matching but poor fit…which to choose? Ack! Decisions decisions! Can you guess which I chose?
I lost all my marks since I serged the edges straight away. Without the pockets, the pattern pieces are so similar. I got round it but it’s something to think about before cutting and serging. Next time I will use pins.
Next up, the waistband was cut on bias and ironed out. I was ironing out the stretch before applying fusible interfacing. The waistband would be unstable otherwise. OMG the waist band kept stretching and lengthening until it had about 1/3 extra length. Once interfaced it was good to go.
Next on the list was sorting out the side seam pockets. The material for pocket bags is the same as the lining material used for the skirt. I didn’t want to add bulk. I love the luxurious feel of the lining but my gosh it was a slippery thing! Well worth it though for the beautiful feel of silk. Its a synthetic silk.
The tulle is nice and lightweight used for bridal wear. I cut 2 layers of tulle exactly like the pattern and made them up separately before attaching at the waistband. The tulle went in before the lining. The tulle also acted as a stabiliser when I inserted the invisible zip. Used Nicole’s (Sewing with Scooby Snacks) tutorial and achieved a near perfect seam alignment! To reduce bulk at waist I used petersham ribbon which is a fab fab invention! Again this is worthy of its own post but I will try to be succint. Petersham = awesome!!!!!! I used A Challenging Sew’s tutorial here. A good resource worth bookmarking.
The skirt had to be hung up for 2-3 days for the barkcloth and lining to drop. Its cut on bias so it needed to release its stretch. Hem finished with a red bias binding for pop of colour.
Verdict I love love love this skirt!
I will start of by saying you can never have too many cardigans. When I saw this pattern for the Julia Cardigan my fate was sealed. It was one of those purchases I didn’t even have to think twice about. And I’m SO pleased I got it! Its quick to sew up and entirely completed on the overlocker. I chose the 3/4 sleeve with a doubled-over collar (to avoid the need to hem). I love a pattern that doesn’t require any hemming.
I don’t actually know what the fabric is – it looks like an interlock knit. Its been in my stash for yonks now. It was only 1m but I managed to squeeze in a cardie. You need 4 of the collar pieces and lets just say that 2 of them are off grain!
Ok more deets on Julia: its sized XS – 3XL…how awesome is that! The cardigan drapes around the waist creating a lovely curved shape. It also drapes so prettily around the neck
Size wise: I cut a small, based on my high bust measurement. It’s flattering without being too tight. Though I’m really happy with the fit when I make it again I will do a slight broad shoulder adjustment.
The instructions were really clear and easy to follow with a photo for every step. They also include tips on how to customize the fit to your own body. I love this about the instructions – I am such a visual person.
I would say that this is a beginner pattern with really basic construction: 1.sew shoulders, 2.attach sleeves in the flat, 3. sew side seams, 4. add cuffs, 5.the collar. The longest bit was sewing on the collar. I took me less than 2 hours to make this and that was because I was trying to make sure I didn’t muck anything up. I am looking forward to the second one because I know it will be faster to sew up. Oh and did I mention I made the doubled up hem version…so there is absolutely no hemming involved 😉 Yeah!! If you aren’t crazy about hemming knits this option is lovely!!
That’s it! This cardigan is beyond comfy. I think this is a great pattern! It ticks so many boxes.
Do you have any good cardigan patterns that you would recommend? I feel like I am only scratching the surface of whats available to sew….
Now for the pictures. Double Sewaholic because I am wearing my Granville sleeveless shirt as well :-).
Thanks so much for stopping by and checking out my little space on the interweb!