IPM Week 2 One Pattern Two Ways; Carme blouse revisited

Hello chums,

If you follow The Monthly Stitch you will seen these already. You can scroll though to the bottom where I have added detail pictures :-).  I was late posting them here because there are other details I wanted to talk about here that I didn’t have time to on the other post because of the deadline. Yes I know I shouldn’t wait till the very last minute to finish and post. In my defense I did not realise that for the competition you could start on the items after the IPM announcement in May! All along I thought it was like Pattern Review where you have to cut, sew and write up in the time frame of the competition. Ack! At least now I will start on my final week garments this weekend.

Anyhow back to the Carmes at hand.

I love Pauline Alice’s  Carme blouse pattern. I have made it twice before already in a grey and white cotton here and linen Sashiko version here. Its a simple chic pattern with a loose fit pullover style. Its certainly one of the tops I first made to a reasonably decent standard by following the video sewalong which is great for beginners.

Initially I had the placket in the same colour as the bib on the chambray but it didn’t quite look right. See what  I mean…

2016-06-08 16.47.28
The Chambray blouse looked odd with a plain placket.(Sorry for poor picture – twas a dull grey day)

So I had to redo the placket. I did try to pattern match the placket point to the front blouse but there are limits to my patience. I am really proud of how well I did the plackets on both blouses. Unfortunately I am yet to master the consistency of making all my plackets face the same way.

I decided to to do one in a floral chambray for main fabric  with a plain bib front and the inverse on the other. The second Carme is made from a medium weight 100% cotton while the bib is from an embroidered small tablecloth that my mother gave me years ago. I never used it but always thought it might make a nice elbow patch. When I saw this magenta fabric I had a light bulb moment realising it would match perfectly – lucky there was just enough of the embroidered fabric to cut out the bib front.

The weather has been poor in the North of England this week so the pictures don’t quite convey the intensity of the colours. The blue is really a lovely vibrant conrflower blue while the magenta top is quite a fabulous bright jewel tone.

front20collage20carme20blouse1carme20side20view1pauline20alice20carme20blousecerme20blouse20detailscarme20back20viewbib20front20on20carme20blouse

Over the course of 4 makes , I have made the following adjustments to this pattern (I have ordered them chronologically from first to most recent),

  1. Lowered the bust dart by 1.5″
  2.  Lengthened sleeves by 3/8″
  3. 5/8″ broad shoulder adjustment (this has become a standard adjustment for me now)
  4. Lowered front neckline by 3/8″ – I didn’t quite like how high the collar was over my collarbone.

On the blue floral chambray one I experimented with cutting the sleeves on the bias and I really like how they fall now.

Seam finishes – Chambray got french seams except for armholes because I do not know how to french seam an eased in sleeve. On the magenta one I used my overlocker to finish all seams.

For the hemming on the chambray I wanted to keep the smooth roll of a hand sewn hem so I slip stitched it.

For the magenta cotton I finished the hem with overlocker then sewed it by machine at 3/8″. This cotton is quite medium weight so double folding it would have created a stiffer look on the hem. For the undercollar and inner cuffs I used some silk habotai in magenta. It feels luxurious. I also incorporated selvage edges on the inner cuffs to reduce finishing time.

I choose non-descript buttons for both blouses – this blouse has so much going on with the pin tucks and the placket that I felt fancy buttons did not add anything.pauline20alice20carme20blouse201

Further details……

bib20front
Incredibly proud of that placket and how neat it looks. I basted by hand to hold in place before topstitching.
carme20blouse20lining
Thats silk habotai fabric on the inner collar.

carme20blouse20bib20detail

sleeve20tab20button
Sleeve tab button – I used Frixion pens to mark the square but when I iron over them they leave a pale white line…..am I using them wrong?

carme20blouse204

sleeve20tab
I love how this bias cut sleeve drapes.
carme20blouse202
When I saw this fabric I had to buy it because it reminded me so much of the roses growing by our patio.

carme20blouse201

As mentioned I cut the sleeves on the bias. that made the fabric more unstable for the sleeve tab so I interfaced the little square where the tab was going to be sewn on. Its nice and strong and doesn’t drag which can easily happen.

more20sleeve20vent

The sleeve vents are also a point of pride for me. Its something I have struggled with but here I  worked really hard and used a lot handstitching to keep things in place. They took longer to do but were worth the effort.

carme20blouse206carme20blouse

carme20cuffs20detail
My sleeve vent technique has improved significantly with these.

chambray20carme20blouse

inner20hem
A Hand stitched hem. I wanted a near invisible hem with a soft roll. I basted the hem first then did a simple slip stitch hem.
hem20detail
I like the way the hem looks without the machine stitching line.

Both are quite different and I quite like (love) these additions to my wardrobe. They work really well with my Birkin Flares too:-). There will definitely be more Carmes in my sewing future. I am not yet done with this lovely pattern.

I still cant choose my favourite – its like asking which of my little people is my favourite :-).

Thanks for reading. Until next time, Happy Sewing everyone.

Hila

X0X

PS I happen to be a finalist in the comp and if were thinking of heading over to TheMonthlyStitch.com and see what the other entries were then maybe you could also cast a vote (for me if you like 🙂

 

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30 thoughts on “IPM Week 2 One Pattern Two Ways; Carme blouse revisited

  1. Already voted for you because these are gorgeous! I’m so impressed you managed to get these done in the time. Like you, I didn’t get going on any challenges until the challenge week itself so I’ve had to keep my garments simple just so I can meet the deadline (too simple I think though). I’m going to sit the next challenge out but I have plans for the RTW one after if I can make them come to fruition. Good luck with your tops! 😃

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Beautiful job on your shirts! You aren’t doing anything wrong with the Frixion pens – marks from Frixion pens don’t completely disappear when ironed, and probably won’t wash out completely unless you use some ink and stain remover (be sure to test on a scrap!). I wouldn’t recommend using Frixion pens on garments, although they can be perfect for making muslins. The marks also come back if your garment gets cold enough (put it in the freezer and see!). I use Crayola Ultra-Clean washable markers for marking on most fabric, and chalk on dark colors.

    Liked by 3 people

  3. Love these combinations, Hila, and all your internal details – silk is nice. Gotta remember that one. 😉 So are bias cut sleeves, which does ring a distant bell, but I’ve never done it. Off to vote for you!

    Liked by 1 person

  4. What glorious blouses. I am glad you took the pattern on the turquoise on onto the placket. It looks splendid. Super work and so vibrant. I also love the way your little girl matches your outfits too.

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Just catching up with my blog reading and it seems I’ve missed the chance to vote – sorry! Your tops are stunning and I love the fact that you managed to incorporate the embroidered tablecloth in one of them.

    Liked by 1 person

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