New Look 6423 Girls Jersey Dresses

Hello chums,

Allow me to present more of these gorgeous little girls dresses made in delicious cotton jersey using New Look 6423.

I cut a size 3 yrs as before and they are now a perfect size for them

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New Look 6423
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New Look 6423
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New Look 6423
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New Look 6423
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New Look 6423

My foldover elastic game was much improved. I stretched lightly as I sewed it one and the neck gaping was eliminated.

The fabric was another purchase from B&M Fabrics at Leeds Market – a great quality cotton jersey that only cost £6/meter and washes really well.

I cut one of the fronts on the wrong direction but its not too noticeable (Although my hubs was on the receiving end of furious glare when he pointed out the obvious ). I also had to cut a back piece as 2 halves on the cross grain. The effect is the foxes look like they are head butting each other.

Hems were finished with a simple zigzag stitch. For the sleeve hem I decided to use the foldover elastic and it makes a nice finish.

The leggings they are wearing  are made using a pattern from Ottobre Kids magazine Autumn 2014. I have used that leggings pattern so many times I have lost count now. Its quick and fast – a really great scrap buster too. The red ponte was left over from my red Morris blazer.

I am very pleased with how these turned out. My little people are very happy and that works for me. I put up a review on my Youtube channel if you would like to take a closer look at foldover elastic.

 Thanks for stopping by! Until next time Happy Sewing all :-0

Peace and love,

Hila

Another Denim Sewaholic Hollyburn Skirt

Hello chums,

I have only gone and made another of my favourite skirt sewing pattern. Since giving away my denim Holyburn back in April (it was a bit big ), I needed another one.

A true TNT pattern it took me just under 4 hours to make from start to finish including cutting.I normally expect a Holyburn to take me less than 3 hours but the addition of an exposed zipper complicated things somewhat.

Alterations to pattern: changed from straight waistband to a contoured waistband using tutorial from A Fashionable Stitch (I did this alteration on my third Holyburn and haven’t looked back since).

Construction Notes:

Medium weight indigo denim fabric.  I used a hammer a few times to flatten seams. The waistband lining is Cupro left over from my tailored jacket V8601. I used grey bias binding on the hem. Old shirt for pockets.  An exposed zip using Lladybird’s tutorial. I wasn’t planning on an exposed zip but when Lauren posted her tutorial it bolstered my confidence to give it a go.

I should also mention that I started this skirt for the OutfitAlong OAL2016  challenge of which the counterpart is a Chuck sweater that I started knitting and still haven’t finished….yet. Anyhow pictures 🙂

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Sewaholic Holyburn Skirt
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Sewaholic Holyburn Skirt
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Sewaholic Holyburn Skirt
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Pocket lining
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Obligatory twirl shot. Sewaholic Holyburn Skirt
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Bias binding on hem
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Sewaholic Holyburn Skirt
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Sewaholic Holyburn Skirt
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Sewaholic Holyburn Skirt
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Exposed zip
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Insides back
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Sewaholic Holyburn Skirt

I love this skirt! I am so grateful to the friend who insisted on wanting the old Holyburn. If she had never asked (and persisted), I would not have had the chance to make a much better fitting and better sewn skirt. This giving away my me mades malarkey may yet have some benefits 🙂

 Thanks for stopping by. I guess the denim skirt can count as the beginning of autumn sewing? 🙂

Have you started on your autumn sewing yet ? I will be back soon with my autumn mood board.

Peace and love,

hila

 

 

Vogue 9084 Peplum Top : Pattern Review

Hello chums,

Hope your summer is winding down as nicely as it is here in the North of England. We have had a couple of thunder storms but otherwise most of the day I forget that its September already. Its been unseasonably warm – I am not complaining however :-). I am a tad annoyed that I had already packed away my summer clothes though!

Anyhow here is a cute little top I sewed up some time in summer. Trying to keep it simple so here is the pattern review for it.

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Pattern Description:

On-trend peplum top featuring a fitted top, a zip fastening on the reverse and a ruffled, floaty hemline.

Pattern Sizing:

8-24. I cut the size 12.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes and no. Yes it looked like the line drawing but I thought it would be more fitted based on the cover illustrations but it isnt – I supposed I could have made it more fitted by taking it in but I had already sewn up the peplum and the hassle didnt seem worth it. The armsyce is also quite lower than on the illustration. It shows my bra.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. I read through them once before starting but its a simple top so I didn’t need to refer to them again.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the floaty high low peplum hem.

Fabric Used: 

I used a viscose fabric bought from Lucky Fashions in Dewsbury during the Yorkshire Spoolettes meet up in Feb.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

The only change I made was to not include the zipper. I can pull it over my head easily.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes I will sew it again, I’d like to make the long sleeve version but in a knit fabric. I will be raising the armsyce though as that is too low. I am not sure about recommending it because of how it looks fitted on pattern illustration but its actually not. I would make a conditional recommendation as follows:

I recommend you sew up a muslin of the bodice first to see if you like the fit. It can be quite easily taken in at the waist but the you have to adjust the peplum pattern pieces to fit your new waist circumference.

Conclusion: 

Its a good addition to my wardrobe – a very comfortable top that looks great with skinny jeans and leggings. I really love how the peplum moves and drapes. Apart from the issues mentioned above I like it and will definitely make another one.

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And pictures….

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Vogue 9084
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Vogue 9084 Back view. Its a bit roomy at the upper back .
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Vogue 9084 I need a swayback adjustment.
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Vogue 9084 The armscye is quite low
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Vogue 9084 Another view of the low armhole showing my bra.
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Vogue 9084 I am trying to do an ASOS model pose – #fail
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Vogue 9084 Love how the peplum billows out when I am walking.
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Vogue 9084 Insides finished by overlocker and armhole finished with bias binding

And a clip to show you how the peplum moves. Just click play..

 

Thanks for stopping by my little corner of the interwebs. Until next time Happy sewing all!

Peace and love,

hila

I am excited about…

Hello,

I wanted to fire off a quick post sharing how excited I am today because this evening I am attending my first class on Intermediate Pattern Drafting! Yay! I hardly got any sleep last night thinking about what it will be like.

The class will run for 10 weeks and each lesson is about 2 hours long. I have got all my supplies ready packed. Its something I have wanted to do for while now. I am self taught through books and Craftsy but I wanted the experience of being in a class. Being a student was something I excelled at back in the day :-).

Thanks for listening – now I will try and get on the day without being too overexcited <fingers crossed>.

hila

x

10 Fashionable Ways to style a Sewaholic Granville Shirt #OWOP16

Hello everyone,

I decided to join the One Week One Pattern (OWOP) challenge when CinderEllis announced it on her blog. The premise of OWOP  is that you select one pattern that you have made and you pledge to include that garment in your daily outfit for the week. It tends to be a lot easier if you select a pattern you have made more than once.

It didn’t sound like a great premise to me at first because well, why would I want to wear the same thing for 7 days when I have so many handmade things in my closet? Well, the beauty of this challenge, as I discovered, is that it really pushes you (at least it did for me) to find ways of overcoming wardrobe ennui. When wardrobe ennui starts to set in, the best way to beat it is with clever styling tricks. So I’d say that OWOP is more of a styling challenge rather than a wardrobe wearout challenge which inevitably happens with something like MeMadeMay.

I selected my beloved Granville shirt because for me the Granville is a fun style staple. Of course, I was also swayed by the fact that I have made 5 of them :-). Click here for all my Granville shirts makes.

Can I just say that I thoroughly enjoyed the challenge of having to style them everyday for a week. So much that by the time the 7 days were up, I still had an appetite for more. Big thanks to Hannah for taking the time to host this challenge. I was so inspired by the many people who participated and again my fabric and pattern wish list has grown!

So here are my ways of wearing the Granville shirt. Enjoy 🙂 Picture quality is not the best – some days there was better light than others.

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Keeping with light hues for a relaxed smart casual look.
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Sleek silhouette with a pencil skirt.
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Paired with a voluminous skirt. Need I say more?
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Paired with Butterick B5895 and a skinny bright belt for a pop of colour.
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My sleeveless chambray Granville with a vintage 80s skirt creates a simple look with light hues.  I chose the wider belt to match the shoes.
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Simply pairing with jeans and a slim belt works a treat.
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Tis the season for layers. The sleeveless Granville is ideal to fit under a blazer.
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Double Sewaholic pairing – my denim Hollyburn goes perfectly with the chambray Granville (quite possibly my favourite because of the blue on blue action 🙂
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Another double Sewaholic day here, decidedly autumnal. I got a lot of compliments when I was wearing this outfit
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 Another favourite combo. Can you guess why? 🙂 Skinny silver belt and silver brogues complete the look.

I reckon I did OK with my sartorial choices but next time I would like to be bolder in my styling :-). I learnt that button-down shirts like the Granville can be dressed up or down and can be styled in countless creative ways.

Are you the proud owner of a Sewaholic Granville (or any) button-down shirt? How do you prefer to style yours? I’d love to hear!

Thanks for stopping by.

Mwah!

hila

John Kaldor M6696 Uber Shirt Dress

Hello everyone,

I made another shirt dress using the very awesome McCalls M6696 shirt dress pattern. I made my first one here in a gingham cotton lawn . Though my pattern matching was dubious – Its a solid addition to my wardrobe that I love.

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The story of this dress starts with the fabric. I first laid eyes upon this luscious John Kaldor on Ali’s IG feed. I saw. I wanted. I bought. All within the space of about an hour. I initially wanted to make some cigarette pants out of it but when it arrived, the fabric had other ideas.

It Screamed SHIRTDRESS!!!

I heeded the call. and voila! I present to you my UBER dress!

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McCalls M6696
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McCalls M6696

I feel uberfeminine, uberlovely and ubersplendid.

Construction deets : Since I had perfected the fit already there were no alterations with this. I made self covered buttons using the thingy majicky – it takes me less than a couple of hours to do. I did a lot of hand basting with this to make sure the pleats were hanging just right. All the work was worth it though. The pocket lining is in a pink cotton. The armhole I finished with green satin bias binding.

I love this. Its a most uber dress yes?

Thanks ever so much for stopping my little corner of the intewebs.

Peace and love,

Hila

X0X

A Quick Tour of my sewing Cave…

Hello everyone,

I thought I’d give you a quick tour of my sewing cave – where all my sartorial adventures happen. Until last year I did not have a sewing space, rather my stuff was in a corner of our dining area. The machine had to be stored in its box when not in use on our dining table. I remember what that was like so I am eternally grateful that I now have a sewing cave – even though I quickly filled it up with fabric……I am only human m’kay 🙂

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My Corner of Shame – the brown box has UFOs. All the other boxes are full of fabric.
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How I store my Burda magazines
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My view when sitting at the machine – I pin the instructions on to the wall for easy reference if needed. The magnetic knife rack was a cheap buy from Ebay (£4) great value.
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Mmmmm thats not…I mean….that is to say……I dont really have a problem. I assure you I have it all under control. It may look like fabric stash but it really isnt…its actually a closet-in-becoming.
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Hubs kindly put up that shelf for me. Its an Ikea shelf that I repurposed for storing my patterns. The box caddies are also from IKEA. Milk and nappy boxes work well too. The red bag has all my muslins, the brown wicker basket and the blue laundry basket both have remnants (the nicer ones go in the brown – the less nicer ones in the blue).
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Another view of my main sewing area. I have a vintage Jones machine which was my first machine bought on Ebay for £30 – I dont use it but I keep it around as a back up just in case. The overlocker lives between the 2 machines. I love my colour wheel and charts – they are very useful for coming up with different combos.
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View from the door. The Cave is in the attic with a skylight. It gets really hot in summer but for the rest of the year I have good natural light during the day.
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I got the rail and cups thingie from Ikea as well. My pens, pencils, seam gauges, rulers, small scissors, loop turners live in here where I can easily reach them while sewing or ironing. I made a silk organza press cloth and a cotton press cloth that also hang on there on a hook. The iron is an old one that has been replaced since these pictures (the steam function stopped working 😦
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The mini white board handles all my WIPs and short term sewing projects. Above it a monthly view planner tracks my projects.

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The door. That red bag contains all my muslins – I cant seem to throw them out —which is annoying as they are accumulating…

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These little cups cheer me up no end 🙂
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The pattern stash – I counted the patterns I had – aprox 285 not including the Burda Magazines off course :-). Honestly I was very chuffed with that number because I thought it was way more than that. Whats your number?
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The top shelf has my PDFS which are folded into large envelopes then stored in the old nappy boxes which are perfect size. All my vintage patterns are in the plastic box. 
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Middle shelf has my sewing books, Burda and Ottbre Design magazines. My self drafted patterns are folded into freezer bags and stored in a magazine holder. The milk box at the end contains my large size Vogue patterns.
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Bottom shelf: more Burdas and caddies. I decided to sort them but pattern company. Initially I tried to go with type of pattern but the problem was patterns that have skirt and tops etc.  In each caddy I have grouped like patterns together with card separators e.g. Vogue dresses then Vogue Skirts then Vogue Tops the Vogue Trousers Then Vogue separates.
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My yarn stash………I need a separate post to talk through my issues here.
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I keep my pattern drafting tool in a shoebox.
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I am evangelistic in my belief of the Pomodorro technique. I have timers all over the house so there is no excuse – even my kids Pomodorro it :-).
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This old piano stool came with house when we bought it but it was in disrepair and very dirty. Cleaned it up and fixed it – e voila! A stool with storage for my clapper, sleeve roll and tailors ham.
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I made this double sided pin dish by gluing an old magnet to the base of  one of these cute little catering tubs from an airplane. I then glued the 2 bases together, tried being arty with my Sharpie and volia a very useful magnetic pin dish.
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The previous house owner wanted to throw out the partners desk but I asked her to leave it – again it was in quite a state but I cleaned and fixed it. On one side of the drawers from the bottom – all my threads (incl overlocker cones). The next one up has all my trims, twill tapes, ribbons, petershams, grossgrains. The next one up has my large roll bias binding and all my elastics. The top one is miscellanious.
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The left side of the partners desk. Bottom drawer: Zips. Next up has printed PDFs awaiting taping and my pattern drafting tools. Next up contains all my buttons, snaps and hooks&eyes. Top drawer contains the most immediate tools used during sewing ; bobbin case, point turner, bees wax, needles, wonderclips, seam ripper etc.

 

Ok Phew. Thats it folks. My humble sewing cave. I took these pictures just after hoovering the carpet otherwise there tends to be threads and fabric bits on there. I have gotten better at looking after my cave.

There was a time when I was happy to sew until I couldnt see the floor but I have come to appreciate the joy of walking into a well ordered space. And since I designated a place for everything to live its a lot easier for me to put things away immediately. I no longer have things sitting around waiting to be allocated a space. I hoover about every 2 weeks now – that seems to work well for me.

I hope you enjoyed the tour and until next time – Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

http-signatures-mylivesignature-com-54494-285-f1f8459e72780eb6de2c72aa0e78a712

PS Dont forget to tell me what your number is for sewing patterns. 🙂 I’d love to share and have a giggle.

PPS OMG See how much my sewing stuff has expanded – check out this post <link here>I<link here>I had forgotten about until now! EEk!

Burda Wrap Dress 07/2016 #101

Hello everyone,

I am super excited to share this wrap dress made from Burda 07 2016 edition. I really like this dress and it came together easily. Here is the line drawing.

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Burda 07/2016 #101 Wrap Dress

The instructions were actually quite okay on this (shock horror! Burda instructions actually making sense :-).

The straps are interesting because they are twisted together. I do like Burda for their approach to design. They always try to do unique design features.

Unfortunately I did not have enough fabric to pattern match properly. The lower flounce had to be cut on a different grain. I picked this jersey up  from Fabworks Mill Shop. You know I love the blues and purples with the Mediterranean tile effect. But mostly it had me at blue 🙂

I didn’t make a muslin but it came out alright. I do need to lengthen the bodice by about 1cm though to get the belt to sit spot on my waist.

All the edges and hems were finished with twin needle. I used bias tape for first time with this make. I needed to avert gaping and stretching out of armhole and neckline. I was mildly successful. I need to see how it behaves after a wash.

The style of this dress is very flattering and  I will be making it again. I love the swishyness and the fit over the bust. The overlap of the wrap dress is such that I dont have to worry about wardrobe malfunctions in high wind. Thats always been my fear with wrap dresses

-_-.

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Thanks for stopping by this little place on the interwebs.

Until next time. Happy Sewing!

http-signatures-mylivesignature-com-54494-285-f1f8459e72780eb6de2c72aa0e78a712

xox

Lekala 4286 blouse plus self drafted pencil skirt

Hello chums,

I stumbled across Lekala patterns during Indie Pattern Month 2015 when I made  a dress as part of the New to Me challenge. I haven’t looked back since and quite like some of their designs.

When I bought this lush John Kaldor fabric from Sew Essential I wasn’t sure what I wanted to make with it – only that I was drawn to the colour and the print. When I received the fabric I was more than pleased and knew I wanted to make a pussy bow blouse.

Luckily I had #4286 pattern that I had picked up during a Lekala 5 for £5 sale – effectively making this pattern cost 1£.

In keeping with my experience with Lekala patterns, I did not make a muslin. The fit is always perfect for me with Lekala. Unsurprising given that the patterns are drafted to your measurements. I think the trick is to take your measurements properly. You can even select adjustment for a broad shoulder or a longer torso. With this pattern I selected the broad shoulder option and it fits like a glove with the shoulder seam exactly where it ought to be.

The John Kaldor Rosaline Fabric in blue and black is a medium weight polyester satin with a crinkle finish. The blue is very vibrant. Its also available in a gold and black colourway that I think I will also get.

The fabric shifts around a lot so I had to buy spray starch.I sprayed it on and it stiffened up which made it so much easier to cut and sew. To remove the stiffener I just rinsed it out after I had finished sewing. I only bought a 1m of the fabric though so the bow was cut on the cross grain rather than bias.Lekala 4286Lekala topBlog pictures annad dresses etc 628Blog pictures annad dresses etc 606Blog pictures annad dresses etc 617Blog pictures annad dresses etc 582Blog pictures annad dresses etc 619Blog pictures annad dresses etc 623Blog pictures annad dresses etc 624Blog pictures annad dresses etc 625

The design actually has a zip on the side but I didn’t bother with zip as I can pull it over my head easily. Using fusible interfacing was a no no since this John Kaldor has a beautiful crinkle texture to it – the fusible was removing the crinkle. Instead I used silk organza. It was my first time using this technique and am impressed with how well it came out.

 

The black pencil skirt took less than 30 mins to whip up. I have made 2 of these already. For this one I used a thicker elastic. I was going to turn the elastic under but I really liked the empire waist feel it added to the skirt. The fabric has a beautiful texture – its a scuba.

It sewed well and it washes well as well. I wanted a dark pencil skirt because my autumn wardrobe plans include pencil skirts silhouette. After a very swishy summer I am looking forward to a sleeker look in fall……..wait and see…

Verdict. I love the John Kaldor fabric and I love the blouse. It feels so comfortable to wear which is a must for me.

Thanks for stopping by my little corner of the interwebs.

Happy Sewing!

Hila

xox

 

Summer McCalls M6044 3.0

Hello chums,

I cant believe that this is the 3rd shirt I have made for Mr SNS. The first was in Alexander Henry cotton <link here> and the second was in Cotton & Steel Octopus fabric <link here>. This one is a lightweight, but crisp, 100% cotton that he bought himself during a lunch break. Well he actually had to go to the shop to pick up some fabric for the kids shirts when he spotted this.It has a tile medallion effect in aqua blue tones. I was quite impressed that he managed to estimate the right amount o fabric  (just barely).

I do love shirtmaking – there is something about it that gives me an immense sense of satisfaction. I flat felled (love  this technique) all the seams so its looks very neat on the inside too. Pictures…

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I didnt quite nail the button placement here.
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The yoke is hard to see but its there
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Contrast inner cuffs
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Contrast button band and undercollar
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Flat felled armhole sean
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This pattern has now earned its place in my TNT Hall of Fame.

Mr SNS as usual loves it – only 2 more shirts to go and he will be able to wear me made shirts Mon – Fri…can I achieve that goal before 2017? Only time will tell.

Thank you for stopping by. I appreciate you. Have a great weekend 🙂

Peace & love

Hila

XoX