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I MADE jeans! I want to shout it from the rooftops! I, Hila of SaturdayNightStitch, made jeans – As in actual life jeans! And they may just be the best darn jeans in the whole wide world as far as I am concerned. Try as I may while writing this post I could not contain my joy, exuberance, and incredible sense of achievement. So heed my call: If a bubbly/ super energetic/hyper / super-happy post is not your thing, turn away now.
There are a lot of pictures because I love these pictures, and well, the blog is my record of things I make, so you have been warned. Now, back to the good stuff. If you haven’t heard of them, the Birkin flares (by Baste and Gather) are so reminiscent of 70s-style jeans that I was instantly taken by them. They reminded me of seventies icons like Pam Grier and Farah Fawcet.
Table of Contents
Pattern Description Birkin Flare Jeans
Inspired by 1970s fashion icon Jane Birkin, the Birkin flares are a high-waisted, flare-leg, classic jean. These jeans feature a universally flattering high waist (but not too high) with classic five-pocket styling, a curved yoke and a straight-cut waistband.
Fabric for Jeans
I have wanted this pattern for a long time but I never ever thought I could make the jeans. I even got the denim during a sewing blogger meet up in February. It was a cheap denim at £5/m. I think it has about 5% Lycra content so it has great stretch and is super soft. I still procrastinated because I feared the fly. I decided to follow the age old adage: “just take one step at a time“. Before I knew it, I was sewing the inseam, and I could try on the jeans. Jeans that I made myself!!
Construction details.
I cut a size 28. Due to the stretchiness of the denim, I ended up taking in the side seam 1/2″ and the inseam 3/8″. There was gaping at the waist that I resolved by pinching out at the waist and grading to 0 at the hip. I got away with this due to the stretchiness – I’d need to dart in the back yoke if I use a non-stretch denim.
Pattern Alterations
The beauty of this pattern also lays in the well drafted excellent instructions. Its like Lauren is walking you holding your hand throughout the whole process. Each step is explicitly broken down and explained – I had no head scratching moments. I will also say that the pattern booklet gives a great guide on fit and its very helpful in determining which size you should choose.
I even installed a jeans post button and hammer on rivets. I enjoyed this so much that I got carried away and accidentally added an extra rivet. But I am not going to tell you where. Speaking of hammers, taking a hammer to the seams was a novel experience that I thoroughly relished. It is amazing how it gets the seam nice and flat for topstitching.
This leads me to my weakest point: the topstitching. I wasn’t very good at topstitching evenly, to be honest. I am too impatient to unpick as well, so there. But hey, who cares? I made jeans!
I bought 1 spool of topstitching thread – I was being optimistic. OK – incredibly optimistic. It finished a quarter of the way through. Being in the swing of things, the idea of stopping was a no, so I did what others recommend on Google – used 2 threads on the upper needle. Skeptically, I threaded 2 spools, and it worked – I dare you to look at the pictures and see if you can tell which bit has expensive topstitching thread:-P.
My one and only qualm with this pattern is the coin pocket. You have to make up the coin pocket just like the back pockets with all the corners etc but because its a small wee thing, its more fiddly. Then, you have to hammer the seams and top stitch all around the coin pocket. The most excruciating bit is the lower corners – but here’s the thing: you don’t see the bottom half of the coin pocket. Next time, I will just serge the bottom and save myself a bit of time.
Apart from that tiny issue – It is a fab pattern! The jeans make me feel like a denim vixen.
So for pictures, I was just so high on a feeling of success/achievement/reaching a new personal best and it turns out I can’t take a calm picture when I am feeling so… ebullient. Bear with me – it is a big deal for me that I made jeans.
Birkin Flares – The Verdict
I LOVE my jeans! The kick flare and the high waist give this pattern a 70s chic appeal that cannot be matched. Its no wonder this jean has been made by many other seamsters and is adorning all body types in the blogosphere. It hugs the hips, elongates the leg, and let’s face it – makes the bum look fab – everything you want in a great pair of jeans.
Still not sure you can make jeans? I have devised an ingenius quiz to help you know for sure:
- Do you wear jeans? (Yes or No or Maybe)
- Can you sew a straight line (Yes No Maybe)
If you answered Yes to both questions, then Congratulations! Yes! You can in fact, make jeans.
If you answered No to 1 and yes to 2, you can still make jeans even though its not a style choice for you but be rest assured that if you ever wanted to you can in fact make jeans.
If you answered no to both questions – I am still really glad you read all the way to this point. You are totally awesome! Thank you!
Seriously its not that difficult at all – I sound so evangelistic about this but if like me you have mythicalised the making of jeans to the extent that you bought the Craftsy jeans class many years ago, watched it but always thought you’d need at least 2 dedicated months to make jeans – you are so wrong (I made these in 4 days btw). Anyway I am going to stop – did I mention I made jeans!
Thanks so much for stopping by my little corner of the interwebs. Until next time- Happy Sewing everyone!
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thedementedfairy
June 6, 2016 10:39 pmBloody frabjous- I’d be leaping about in happiness as well… Pity I’m such a little fatty these days that I’ve completely gone over to elastic waist granny jeans! You have much to leap about, x
Hila
June 9, 2016 9:12 amThank you! Although…..I am sure with you super sewing skills you could easily convert these to elastic waist……
AprilEsutton
June 6, 2016 11:33 pmThis takes me back to my excitement the first time I sewed jeans. They fit great, were comfortable, and flattering. I wore them for years and years.
Hila
June 9, 2016 9:09 amThanks April. I am looking forward to making more and though these were technically a muslin as it was my first go – I hope to be wearing them for years to come.
RED
June 6, 2016 11:54 pmAhhh yay jeans!!! I took blog photos for my Gingers and let’s say they contain victory dances and poses, too… but yours blows mine away! I can feel the excitement from your post and that’s totally how I feel about making my first pair of jeans, too! So beware, there may be a similar post on Sew RED-y soon-ish. 😉
AND CONGRATS!!!!
Hila
June 9, 2016 9:08 amYes! Victory dances in jeans are the best. I also need to get some Gingers for the straight leg look.
RED
June 9, 2016 2:49 pmYou would totally rock the Ginger straight leg look. The pattern is so worth it!
lisa g
June 7, 2016 12:04 amNICE. Excellent job on the jeans!
Hila
June 9, 2016 9:06 amThanks Lisa 🙂
Elle C
June 7, 2016 12:15 amI think you win the award for being the happiest blogger EVER!
Your jeans look fantastic! As soon as I get to my goal weight I am making myself some jeans. And bras. But first jeans.
Hila
June 9, 2016 9:06 amThank you! I am also looking at making bras as my next mountain to climb.
Yo
June 7, 2016 1:00 amYeah !
You make want to sew jeans and your post and pictures are just too good ! You show some Birkin powers! I love that 🙂
Hila
June 9, 2016 9:04 amGo for it! Jeans are a lot to easier to make than you think!
Colesworth
June 7, 2016 5:06 amWoo hoo, well done! I’m impressed, great set of photos that really celebrate the achievement of making your own jeans!!
Hila
June 9, 2016 9:03 amThank you! Nothing has yet to beat that feeling! I am so glad I did it.
tialys
June 7, 2016 7:11 amWow! That was some bum close up!! 😉 I love flared jeans – so much more flattering than skinnies on most people. You are justly proud and delighted – those jeans look fabulous and the construction looks spot on. You’ve almost made me want to give it a try – I do have some black denim with a bit of stretch in it – and, if I do, I’m definitely going to use that pattern.
Hila
June 9, 2016 9:02 amIts a fab pattern and I am sure you will love them. I am yet to read a post where they weren’t liked . Its the high waist I think that just makes them soo comfy.
sewruth
June 7, 2016 7:54 amDefinitely Lycra in that denim!! Brilliant and a perfect fit.
Hila
June 9, 2016 9:01 amThank you!
JaneyB
June 7, 2016 9:51 amDid you make some jeans? They are amazing – the fit is just spot on. The expressions on your little ones’ faces in that photo are priceless!
Hila
June 9, 2016 9:01 amLols, they were running around too – though I am not sure they quite understood why mummy was being a bit loco 🙂
Lisa Poblenz (patternandbranch)
June 7, 2016 11:57 amYou did it! I knew you could!! I love your pictures and I hear you on the topstitching. I’ve decided that’s a skill that takes practice, but no one will notice if it’s not perfect. Congratulations. Your jeans look great!
Hila
June 7, 2016 4:32 pmThanks Lisa😘. It was your “one step at a time” jeans post that did it for me. Thanks for push💋
Lisa Poblenz (patternandbranch)
June 7, 2016 6:52 pmThat’s so sweet! I’m really glad it helped! 😊
gingerella
June 7, 2016 1:02 pmHa! Love the photos! 😀 YAY! JEANS! And they really do look great. Well done! I’m still yet to make a pair myself but have the Ginger pattern. I just need to settle on some denim, I’m definitely procrastinating!
Hila
June 7, 2016 4:31 pmI know that procrastination feeling all too well. Grab the cheapest denim you can get your hands on and just go for it👍.
oonaballoona
June 7, 2016 1:08 pmokay denim vixen, BEST PHOTOS EVER!!! your kids look like they’re taking an AP course on how to express joy!!
you look amazing. i know the feeling of trying on that first time, it is DELICIOUS!
Hila
June 7, 2016 4:29 pmThank you😘. DELICIOUS is the perfect word for it!
Mads (lifeinamadshouse)
June 7, 2016 3:25 pmHila!!!!!!! Work it, girl: you and these jeans are perfect for each other! =) I can feel the joy in these photos!
Hila
June 7, 2016 4:26 pmThank you😘. I am glad the post conveyed how I feel.
SomedaySewing
June 7, 2016 7:36 pmThese are the most exuberant sewing photos I have ever seen! I love it!
Hila
June 9, 2016 9:00 amThank you! I really really like the jeans and had such a fun day with them.
corrineappleby
June 7, 2016 8:49 pmWow! I am so impressed! And I admire your courage for posting that booty picture (you do know which one I’m referring to don’t you???)! Mind you, I would be posting a picture like that if my backside looked as good as yours! Next time I’m in Lucky Fashions I’m going to see if they have any more of that stretch denim. It worked out so well!
Hila
June 7, 2016 10:20 pmThats not my booty Corrine, its the Birkin booty! Mine does not ordinarily look like that😂
corrineappleby
June 7, 2016 10:40 pmHa ha! I so need to make them in that case! 😉
fabrickated
June 8, 2016 5:22 amI made these too and despite being a fairly ordinary shape myself they are by far the best jeans I ever owned. They are, as you discovered, not hard to make, and the fit I got is superb. You Hila look simply amazing.
Hila
June 9, 2016 8:59 amThanks Kate. They are extraordinarily comfortable.
Ruthcreates
June 8, 2016 12:24 pmThese are fabulous! I am definitely on the side of never being able to sew jeans, but if I did these would be the ones, and I would definitely be doing a happy dance too!
Hila
June 9, 2016 8:58 amI take that as a huge compliment. Thanks Ruth!
Jane
June 8, 2016 1:01 pmYou look AMAZING in those jeans, I’m not surprised you did a few high kicks! x
Hila
June 9, 2016 8:57 amThank you!
SewSouthLondon
June 8, 2016 2:40 pmMagnificent!!!!! And hugely inspiring!
Hila
June 9, 2016 8:57 amThank you 🙂
Linda of Nice dress! Thanks, I made it!!
June 11, 2016 7:25 pmThey look great! Isn’t it fabulous when you can make them yourself!
That Black Chic
June 13, 2016 1:00 amI too know that feeling, is it great!!!! your jeans are fab!!!
Hila
June 15, 2016 9:31 pmThanks! Now onwards to the next pair 🙂
BethS-LA
March 15, 2025 2:18 pmcongratulations! your jeans are FAB. my weakness is topstitching, but I think you’ve given me the little push to just do it—thank you 🙂
Hila
March 28, 2025 12:56 pmThank you! I’m so glad you feel inspired to go for it!