Following on from my last SWAP post, I continue with sharing the patterns I have selected. The rules state that you may only use 8 sewing patterns to make the 11 garments. It was challenging to restrict myself to just 8 but I understand why the SWAP Co-Ordinator did that. This SWAP is about celebrated TNT patterns.
In the end I have selected these patterns – 2 of the items are still undecided and any pointers will be very much appreciated. Here goes
The last 2 are still undecided. I have used up 7 of my 8 patterns allowance. I have to decide how best to achieve these two. I have to decide which one gets the 8th pattern and which one is a derivative of the aforementioned 7…..
Next SWAP post I will talk about the fabrics I have secured to achieve the closest evocation of these inspiration images.
My last post on the self-drafted skirt led to this post on petersham. Naomi asked me to expand on petersham ribbon and I said I’d do a post since my reply was getting long.
But first this:
The first time I used ‘petersham’ I had actually been sold grosgrain. Since I had asked the shop assistant who very nicely showed it to me – I just assumed I had the petersham that I had read of. I recall even asking if it would curve and she said yes. As I was sewing, it remained suspiciously straight but I reasoned that maybe it had to be worn before it does its thing. However, after wearing the skirt a couple of times with no change in the shape of the ‘petersham’, I started considering the possibility that it wasn’t me who had made a sewing mistake.
That’s when my search began again – better equipped with the knowledge of what ‘was definitely not‘ petersham ribbon. I eventually found a haberdashery which was run by an old woman in the market (she told me she had been there for 40 years). She also had some petersham. I was mistrustful given my previous experience but I bought 1m (it looked a lot like grosgrain but had a teeny tiny difference to my untrained eye). When I got home – I unrolled it and immediately noticed the difference between the first one (grosgrain) and this second one. This was definitely Petersham ribbon. I got back as soon as I could to the market to buy more but alas !- apparently she had retired and the day that I had bought the 1m was her last day! So I now had to find some Petersham! The game was on.
Why bother with petersham in the first place
Before I get into a long ramble of petersham ribbon, let me sell you on the benefits of this essential sewing cave notion. The benefits are manifold:
It’s so comfortable because it expands to contours of the body and ‘sits’ rather than grips the waist.
Can be use if there is no fabric for a facing
Can be used to reduce bulk at the waist
Its put on after everything is constructed and fitting done so it’s less fuss
It’s a strong durable finish used often in couture houses
It is much easier to use than a normal waistband.
looks neat on the inside
So what is a petersham ribbon?
My first stop was Wikipedia and it says:
Petersham ribbon, also called Petersham facing or simply Petersham, is a thick, stiff, flexible corded ribbon usually made out of eithercotton, rayon, viscose, or a cotton/ rayon or viscose blend of fibers and used as facing by milliners and tailors… It is woven so that once steamed, it will take on and support a particular curve of fabric….t is also useful as an alternative to bias tape for making fabric conform closely to the shape of the body wearing it— in a corset, for example, or along the waistline of a pair of trousers or a skirt.
This is an accurate definition. Petersham looks like a ribbon but it is much thicker and not as drapey as a ribbon. Like grosgrain (pronunced grograin) ribbon, it comes with a scalloped edge but petersham has a tighter weave on one side which allows it to take on and support a curve.
It sounds simple enough but the problem is that in most sewing books that I have read there is no consistency as to what grosgrain and petersham are. In most cases, it is used interchangeably. Add to that the fact that in most shops I have enquired about petersham I almost always get shown grosgrain. It’s not the shop assistant’s fault either as I elaborate below.
Grosgrain or Petersham? Same thing or different?
Petersham is not to be confused with its close cousin grosgrain, which is straight like normal ribbon you might use in hair.
What do the sewing books have to say….
I did a search of my sewing books. I was limited to my own personal library and if there are other books that deal specifically with petersham ribbon I’d love to hear in the comments below.
Just like my shopping experiences, my sewing books also present different information.
Readers Digest mentions petershams and only says this:
Petersham ribbon is often used for finishing or staying waistlines. It can also be a decorative trim. It is sold by the meter in various widths and a wide range of colours. A special curved petersham is also available in black and white only. Pg. 20
This tells me that it is referring to grosgrain in the first then actual petersham last. It is helpful as it does point out that petershams are only in black and white.
The Vogue Sewing Book doesn’t have petersham listed in its index or glossary so I went to look at skirt waistband finishing. Sure enough, it pops up there but under a different guise and name here is the extract (on Faced Waistline):
RIBBON: Shape a 20 -25 mm (3/4″ – 1″) wide strip of grosgrain ribbon by steaming it into curves corresponding to those of the waistline edge. Be sure to stretch the edge that is to be let free; if you shrink the edge to be joined to the garment, it will stretch during wear. Fit ribbon to your body, allowing 25mm (1″) for ends. pg 336
Based on what we already know about the definition of petersham, – clearly, this tutorial is talking about petersham and not grosgrain which will not ever curve unless cut or darted. It’s a good tutorial apart from the fact that if a beginner were to buy grosgrain and follow it, they would be shocked (perhaps not shocked per se but maybe frustrated) to find it’s not working. (Caveat being that they are using this 1978 edition which I have – if anyone has a newer edition – is this still the same exact text or has it been changed? )
The Sewing Book (Alison Smith) This book had petersham in the index and has a well illustrated photographic tutorial which refers to petersham ribbon as we know it. Here is the extract:.
Petersham in an alternative finish to a facing if you do not have enough fabric to cut a facing. Available in black and white, it is a stiff, ridged tape that is 2.5cm (1″) wide and curved – the tighter curve is the top edge. Like a facing, petersham is attached to the waist after the skirt or trousers have been constructed. pg 177
This is the best succinct explanation along with the tutorial. On pg 179 there is an equally good entry on grosgrain distinguishing between the two ribbon cousins and providing a tutorial on using grosgrain. The only thing missing from both these tutorials is how to finish the petersham and grosgrain at the zip fastening. I have provided a link down below in the resources section on a great tutorial which goes all the way to finishing around the zip fastening – I highly recommend this read if you are looking to up your finishing techniques.
Couture Sewing Techniques (Claire Schaeffer) is the only book to use the term grosgrain and describe a process that is for grosgrain ribbon. I have included it as I found it very interesting. She describes a technique where snipping and darting are used to shape it. So it is definitely grosgrain as it is sold today i.e. straight and needing cutting to shape it to a curve. It doesn’t have a petersham entry on index or glossary either.Here is the extract.
Gerstie’s Ultimate Dress Book (Gretchen Hirsch) has a petersham reference in the index. I can’t be too certain but it looks like what’s being referred to is possibly a grosgrain given that it comes in different widths and colours. Also looking at the picture provided, I can’t see the typical waviness I’d expect to see on a petersham that’s been curved around a waist. Perhaps this might be a US thing and they sell the petersham as defined at the beginning there in differing widths and colours? If there are any US readers who know I’d love to hear your experiances/thoughts on this.
Here is the extract:
So far the Alison Smith book has provided the clearest definitions and tutorial for petersham ribbon. It’s the one book where a beginner would seek to find the proper petersham ribbon since the book specifically says that its only black and white and 1″ wide. The tutorial would also yield a good result as everything matches up.
Ok so now we know that petersham ribbon is the best thing since sliced bread and why there is some confusion as to what it actually is. But hopefully, by now, you get the idea that grosgrain is NOT petersham. Perhaps you can even tell the difference between them. Of course, now are wondering where to buy this lovely thing I speak of. Well, that’s a tricky one……
Where to buy petersham ribbon?
I live in the UK so my experiance is limited to this country unfortunately. More specifically to my region in Yorkshire. I tried buying on Ebay twice and each time received grosgrain so I gave up buying online. I went to Bonds in Farsley but they didn’t have any in stock at that time (I havent yet returned to check but they said they stock it). I found some in Boyes Super Store (Bradford branch) where I bought loads. Samuel Taylors in Leeds Market also had some. And thats it. I have basically stocked up and have about 10m each of the black and white in my cave. I invite readers from other countries (& UK) to share if they know where to buy petersham. Please let me know in the comments below.
Mistakes to avoid.
Hopefully, I made these mistakes so you don’t have to.
Buying the wrong thing.
Watch out for descriptions that say grosgrain/petersham in them – most likely they are the grosgrain ribbon. As mentioned above, my research indicates that petersham and grosgrain are 2 separate things.
I have also yet to ever come across Petersham that isn’t black or white or 1″ wide. I use that as an indicator myself. Buy from reputable sellers so that you can double check with them before buying. Also once you find it, buy shed loads of it – it’s not easy to come by!
Cutting your petersham too short.
Its painful and it has happened to me but I quickly learnt not to do that again. Now I don’t necessarily cut it from my roll before sewing in on. I will sew it on then cut off the excess leaving the allowance I need to turn under.
I have used Fray check successfully especially when I cut it an angle which I wouldn’t advise. Otherwise turn it under and hand sew it as soon as possible.
Petersham ribbon when used correctly creates the most comfortable waist finish. My all time favourite Holyburn skirt has a Petersham ribbon.
Allow me to present another self drafted skirt that I started on in 2015! I have a habit of starting a blog post for a project that has been cut out – that way I sort of have an idea of how long the project took to complete. Well this one has been sitting at the bottom of my 32 drafts queue for a really long time :-). Still better late than never m’kay. The pattern is the same as this A Line skirt here but without the pockets and a tad bit shorter. The fabric is an Echino stag cotton print that I bought a long time ago online – I believe it came from Hong Kong. I have tried to recall why it sat for so long in my UFO box but I honestly don’t know. I was sorting through things in the cave when I came across a blue carrier bag tied at the handles. It was a delight to rediscover the project which was already cut out (lining as well). It only took less than a couple of hours to sew it up and I was very pleased with the end result.
It has a mod feel to it plus its super comfy because of the petersham ribbon I used on the waist. Petersham ribbon is THE best waist band finish IMO.
I decided to start tentative work on a capsule wardrobe. After reading FabricKated’s last 2 SWAPS and My Vintage Inspirations SWAP posts, I was inspired to join in. To be honest I have considered joining in before but this is the first year I have actually understood 50% of the rules. Kate has been kind and generous enough to help me get started and has posted some insightful analysis posts to launch me into the world of sewing with a plan.
The first post was a general answer to the question on how to start a capsule wardrobe. I recommend this post as it gives a very good starting point on what is a capsule wardrobe <link here>.
I found this post very helpful and my response was:
Thank you so much for your help with this Kate. You have made clear what I have been struggling to get. Its like what you said – a lot of the stuff out there on capsule wrdrobe was either too specific or too complicated. So far my take aways from this post are :
1. I need to make everything work together which is easier than trying to meet the SWAP rule on this.
2. I like what you say about dresses reducing options so I will be sticking to one dress.
3. I do love a nice jacket and am thinking of a lightweight mac for one of my overs.
4. Colour palette – I will try my best to use stash fabric so that will most likely determine the palette I will use. Though if I didn’t have my personal rule on using stash fabric – I’d have loved Emerald green, shocking pink, red and orange.
Thank you again!
No doubt I will be coming back and rereading this as I plan. I have my sketchbook at the ready.
Kate then followed up with a development post which also looked at colour palettes for me. Again I was blown away by how her astute understanding of my aspiration style. The post is here and its a very good read if you are interested <link here>.
The key quote in the post for me was:
We need some Kondo-inspired “joy” in our collection. Notice Hila says she loves the colours I suggested – love is more motivating than “I need to use up my stash”. Please Hila, and everyone else, come up with a plan that excites and stretches you. Better to create five items you love, than thinking “use the stash/complete the SWAP”. I know many SWAP participants will focus on using existing patterns and fabrics only, and it is laudable. I feel that if something is worth doing, it is worth doing well, and that means not compromising too much (when compromise might what you do all day everyday in real life).
I had been resolved to only using stashers but this tipped me over towards following my heart. So my colours were decided : Emerald green, shocking pink, red and orange, with navy and white as the neutrals.
This is a saga because I have until April 30th to finish the capsule. This is requiring a level of long-term planning I have not undertaken before. The trick for me is to think about what I want to wear next spring while I am in the groove of sewing with warm cozy knits.
To ensure that I just don’t finish a SWAP for the sake of finishing, I have added a further rule which is that I have to spend a month wearing garments I make for SWAP. I will document the month on IG and then do a post as well.
I haven’t ever thought I could do a capsule wardrobe – my initial thoughts were that it’s too restrictive. Most capsule posts I read tend to have the same stripe top-blue jeans combos which I would find boring to wear regularly. I love bright and bold colours. So I am hoping I can do something that will work for me.
Here is the formula for my SWAP ( you can read the SWAP rules here <link here>):
4 Uppers plus 1 Dress (rogue)
2 Over garments
Here is what I am trying to achieve :
I noticed on the forum that many who are sewing SWAPs give the plan a name. After much rumination I settled on ………Be Bold, Be Bright, Be You Capsule. :-).
My next SWAP post will look at the patterns I have decided to go with.
This past weekend presented itself with some lovely weather so I was out on Sunday in the garden – cleaning the greenhouse, sowing seeds, etc. The etc includes taking in the beautiful spring sights.
I don’t know about you but I love the morning after a light shower. The flowers have the droplets clinging on to their delicate petals and its a lovely thing to see. I took these pictures using OH’s phone and I was rather impressed.
Meanwhile at the allotment the garlic and overwintering onions are doing well. I just sowed the seeds for this year. The potatoes are chitting along. This year we are only going to plant one variety of potatoes : Maris Piper.
This was going to be my first post in 2017 but it didn’t quite work out that way. Never mind.
It’s 2017 and I decided my first post(back when I drafted it) will be a record of my broad goals – things I want to get done that I know of, right now. Over the course of the year, this will change, of course, but it’s a good starting point.
So in 2017 – I will/shall/do/achieve/endeavour to/
Sew 2 Burdas (from the magazine) per month.
Sew 6 Knipmode patterns
Participate in The Monthly Stitch Challenges. I think every other month will do.
Make men’s jeans/trousers.
Sew 1 item from each of my sewing books
Knit and finish 4 items.
Complete SWAP2017 before the deadline.
Make 1 Christmas present and a Christmas tree skirt.
More sewing for OH and kids.
Improve my lining skills.
Health wise – I love doing yoga and will continue with it but I’d like to add some cardio to that by regularly going to Zumba class. I love dancing so it fits.
Here is a video I made talking/rambling on about some of these sewing goals.
I confess this post is shameful on my part. I am ashamed that I did not really bother to know my machine. Recently as I was looking for info on a flat felled foot…..
Let me tell you it all started. So I was doing this pattern drafting class at a local college which also gave me access to an amazing library full of pattern cutting and sewing texts. One Saturday I borrowed the much praised David Page Coffin book on shirtmaking (I was considering it for my personal sewing library). I started reading it with gusto but quickly fizzled out because its is quite an indulgent book. Though the writing style is charming in the same sense of Elizabeth Zimmerman (the knitting goddess) it lacks the conciseness of Zimmerman.
Eventually, I got to the section on flat felled seams. He (Coffin) delivered a very withering critique of my current flat felled technique (the common technique of sewing the seam, trim one side and fold over the other to sew). My one take away from this book was the importance of a flat felling foot to achieve impeccable seams. The game was on. As I scoured the net searching out said flat felled foot for my Husqvarna Viking H class 100Q (which annoying does not take generic feet ) I came across some YouTube tutorials and on the suggested watch list was a playlist by Heirlooom Creations.
I was surprised to find that they had 39 videos on my machine. Surely that can’t be right – my machine is but a simple one! Out of curiosity I started watching them and OMG! I was only using something like 5% of what my machine is capable of. Never mind the fact that I finally understood what this long shank thing that came with the accessories was.
It’s a quilting guide for perfectly parallel stitching!
Yes! I know there is a manual – I swear I read it cover to cover. Somehow I missed out how to use foot D for decorative stitches which has a wider low groove so stitches don’t get stuck (something that happened a lot). Or that the 1/4″ foot is perfect for topstitching. Or the darning function or the blind hem stitch etc…etc…
I see my machine in a different light now and can unreservedly admit that any shortcomings with regards to my machine have been due to me and not it at all!
Now back to the flat felling foot. I decided against buying it as more research indicated that the 9 mm foot which is the only size available for my machine is only suitable for denim and heavyweight fabrics. Furthermore even if I wanted it for jeans making to get that RTW look, apparently the foot cannot go over seam intersections and you have to stop and jump the intersection and finish it by hand. Meh. Not worth the expense for me.
I did, however, get a narrow rolled hem foot and it does the business really well. I practiced on a slippery fabric and it was doodle to get a really neat and tidy baby hem. That foot was a good investment IMO. The next foot I have my eye on is a narrow zipper foot for centered zip insertions. I don’t always want to use an invisible zipper.
On that long technical note, I bid you adieu and leave you with something to think about – just how well do you know your sewing machine?
During Black Friday sales last year, I bought a few Craftsy classes. One of them was Portuguese Knitting. The instructor is Andrea Wong, who is a very good and thorough instructor. I enjoyed the class immensely.
I bought this classes because I had read about how Portuguese knitting creates less strain on the hands. It’s widely cited as much better knitting style to prevent hand injuries. I was a continental knitter but it caused a lot of strain on my hands and I couldn’t knit for more than an hour without my hands becoming fatigued and achy the next day.
Because Crafsty has the 30 day guarantee I though I could always return this if it wasn’t delivering (I have returned Craftsy classes which haven’t delivered on their promise). I decided to make the free hat pattern that comes with the class to get practice.
After a few tries I was up and running. Its much less strain on my hands. The first time I knit for the usual one hour and I had no pain in my hands the next day. On the second night I knit for almost 2 hours watching a film in bed. I had no pain the next morning either – and so on and so on. Gradually I built up my speed. Tensioning was my biggest problem. My tension was all over the place initially but once the new style had settled in it was fine. Like learning any new technique – the key is practice, practice, practice.
With Portuguese knitting you can use the neck for tensioning or a pin.
I didn’t buy one – I made one using a safety-pin and one of my earrings. It works perfectly fine – I just have to be sure I am wearing a top I don’t mind having pin holes in. I knit at night in bed or early morning anyway. When I am out and about at kids activities I rarely bring the pin out and just use my neck.
Here is a Youtube clip showing how to purl PK style by Andrea Wong.
I am very happy with this and its given me hope that my knitting need no longer be tainted by a fear of achy fatigued hands.
The class also shows you how to do colourwork and cables and lacework. Everything you need to know and it well structured.
Made with some fabric I have been very precious about ever since I bought it at Fletchers Fabrics in Leeds Market.
This fabric waited patiently for its partner pattern. In other words, it was a stasher. For a long time. Then I saw this on Burdastyle.com…..
Like magic, I suddenly remembered the swirly 60’s style jersey knit fabric that was buried somewhere in my stash. It was a perfect marriage of pattern and fabric IMHO and, again, I cant tell you how much I love this dress!!! Pictures first….construction details second…..
I cut the size 38 which is my Burda size. No alterations at all. I didn’t use the instructions on this one – I just sort of pinned it out and took it from there. So I pinned the overlap how I wanted it to look, not sure if that’s what the designer was going for.
A brief perusal of the instructions had revealed that the sleeve was to be set it – No Burda – much as I love your drafting and style, I will not set in a knit jersey sleeve!!!!! I used the flat construction method instead and its ok.
All seams were overlocked. A simple zigzag finished the hem and the sleeves. I have plans to make this as a top and a shorter dress in a solid knit. I suspect this might become a TNT by the end of 2017 🙂
Thanks for stopping by…and until next time, happy sewing all!
I sewed up another Burda 6849 in a cotton fine needlecord fabric. This fabric has been a long term stasher so I was glad to finally get it out!
I have made it in cotton lawn before here….
I didnt need the instructions this time around as I am quite familiar with shirt construction. Note that this pattern does not have a tower placket so I used the one from the Angela Kane tutorial. I decided to experiment by adding a velvet ribbon to the undercollar – something I see on OH’s shirts.
I actually overlockeed all the seams. I just did not feel like doing flat felled seams. It was lazy. I did wonder if I’d regret it later and frankly speaking I don’t :-).
Working with cord fabric was a revelation. Never has my lint roller been more vital! I had to use it all the time – everything sticks to cord in a most annoying way in the sewing room, thread ends, lint, fluff – you name it and it sticks. My advice is to get loads of the lint roller if you embark on sewing with cord. DOnt even get me started on the amount of cord dust you get when overlocking the stuff!!
And yet I still will sew with cord again. It’s deliciously soft and warm. Cozy and durable 🙂
Here I am on a family night bowling during the Christmas holiday.
I really ought to make this in a solid colour to really appreciate the wonderful design lines….a chambray blue or a batiste white fabric…..
Here is a shirt I actually sewed in January 2016 for my little brother who lives in Switzerland. He spent Christmas with us and I offered to make him a shirt using McCalls M6044.
I took him fabric shopping – on a tangent -I honestly do not understand why he didn’t LOVE fabric shopping – we walked into B&M Fabrics and literally 2 seconds later he just pointed at a fabric and he was like “that one” (literally 2 seconds in the shop!!!!). “Have a look around and see what else is there – there are loads of lovely fabrics.” I said with a big enthusiastic smile across my face.
“No, I like that one.”
“But you can’t know that you absolutely like that one because you haven’t looked at the others – plus we have 3 more shops to hit up”
Needless to say, recognising the same pattern that was repeated in our childhood, I could see him digging in and being stubborn just cause I was telling him what to do. I retreated, puffed out my cheeks and exhaled.
“Ok, sure” I was really proud of myself – felt like I was the bigger person and congratulated myself. Really I was. But that didn’t stop me dragging him around to the rest of the shops in the off chance that he might see something else he liked. I may have also bought one of two fabrics as well.
So that’s how we ended up with this fabric – a pale muted cotton. I’d say it’s a medium weight cotton which was ok for the shirt. Its not the best fabric I have sewn with but its not the worst either.
I had to trace the small size for him, of which I made a toile. At the toile stage, I took it in at the waist as he likes his shirts figure hugging. I also lengthened it by an inch because that’s what he wanted. He also didn’t like the collar which he felt was too big fo his style and I redrew the upper collar angle to what you see in the pictures.
McCalls M6044 is so easy and fast to sew. I sewed flat felled seams everywhere to give it a professional look. My little brother is the founder and CEO of his own biomechatronic company and he has to look professional.
Unfortunately, he had returned to Switzerland by the time I finished the shirt but he gave permission for my OH to model it before I mailed it.
I had forgotten about this project until the other day when I was sorting out our 2016 digital files. So here is my OH in a shirt that is one size too small; I think he did a wonderful job of posing in a shirt that really is not a colour or print he’d ever pick for himself.
If I had to be perfectly honest, I didn’t enjoy sewing this as much because I was riddled with anxiety throughout the process. I was worried about whether I’d make something good enough. Still, I did my best and that’s what matters at the end of the day.
Writing this post did make me confront one of the uncomfortable reasons I personally avoid sewing for others outside of my kids and OH – I still don’t feel like I can sew garments good enough for them (hypothetical recipient of my sewn projects) to forgo an RTW option. Like they would only wear it around me to please me rather than be truthful and I couldn’t stand that. It’s crazy – I am so insecure I haven’t even asked my brother if he liked the shirt because I am scared of the answer. (Although I don’t think this fear is unfounded given that, though we speak regularly, he hasn’t brought it up either). The reality is that I shouldn’t think like that. Readers, I have a huge flaw. Any ideas of how I can get past this? Tough love welcome.
On that note, thank you for stopping by. Happy sewing all!