Girl’s Jersey Dresses 04/2018 #128 #burdachallenge2018

 

There’s something about bright highly contrasting colours that I find attractive. During the last SEWDOWNDEWSBURY I bought 1 meter of such psychedelic swirling colours at Fabworks. Its not the best quality jersey – the pattern is printed – but it is not the worst either. It washed well and kept its brightness well for the quality of jersey it is. That is to say, it lost about 20% of the colour.

The pattern was one of my #burdachallenge2018 planned makes for April 2018. Its style number 128, here is the line drawing:

BurdaStyle 04/2018 #128

I think this particular issue of Burda has a lot of great kids patterns and I will be making more from it.

BurdaStyle 04/2018 #128 
BurdaStyle 04/2018 #128 

I traced the 110cm. They are 104cm currently, so they can grow into these. The pattern is a super fast sew. For the neckline, I just turned under and sewed with zigzag stitches. The contrast yoke is a scrap fabric that I picked up at a swap.

BurdaStyle 04/2018 #128 

The fit is just as I have come to expect from Burda – spot on for them. Up next I’d like to make these in a better quality jersey like maybe AGF.

BurdaStyle 04/2018 #128 

They love the dresses and they have been worn  A LOT since I sewed them up:-).

Thanks for stopping by! And until next time, Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

#burdachallenge2018

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Kids Sewing – Ottobre Kids Design Magazine and Skater Dress

I have been on a roll of making clothes for my kids lately. These were made earlier in the year and were well received by the wearers.

Kitchy Coo Skater Dress

The girls’ skater dress is described as funky yet functional knit dress has a fitted bodice, high neckline and a curved flared skirt. With a generous cut, the dress is designed to be worn for up to two years per size, here the skirt hits at the knee in the first year and just above the knee in year two. There are options for a sleeveless, short sleeve and long sleeve version, with bodice pieces drafted specifically for either sleeved for sleeveless.

Its only available as a PDF on the Kitchy Coo website. The size range is from 18months to 8 years. I traced the size that corresponds to 4 years age (4T) and the fit was spot on. The instructions are easy to follow and well supported with pictures. Just like the Lady Skater dress its also easy to sew up.

I used fabric that I bought online from Girl Charlee during a half-price Christmas sale. The orange and black fabric held up well and is still going strong even after several washes. The pink spotty one didn’t hold up well, unfortunately. We have had to throw it out as the fabric got ever more distorted with each wash.

Despite this – they love their dresses and I am currently making another one to replace the pink dress.

Ottobre Kids Design Summer 2015 T Shirt

This was a fun t-shirt to make because of the very interesting sleeve style. I had never come across a sleeve that’s half raglan and half normal sleeve. The sizing is just as expected for Ottobre – perfect. The fabric is a cotton jersey that he chose for himself when we were in New York last year.

He cut out the fabric but I sewed it up since the sleeve detail was more complex.

Verdict – he is a happy boy!

Ottobre Design Kids Summer 4/2015 T Shirt – Raglan sleeve at back
Partition seam where raglan sleeve ends.
I think my son has great taste in fabric because I love this!

 

BurdaStyle drop Crotch leggings –

They vaguely resemble Hammer pants for those of us old enough to remember MC Hammer. We weren’t very keen on them – whether its the fabric or the crotch, we don’t know. I used leftovers from my Aurora dress and cut the fabric on the cross grain to get the pattern pieces to fit. The attraction for these was that they would be easy to sew up (they were) but I am beginning to think that they need a different fabric so I am curious to try with a different fabric when time allows.

The leggings don’t have a center front or center back seam.

 

Simplicity 1473 refashion – The sweater dresses I made over 18 months ago had become too tight on the chest. The fabric was in still in very good condition so I had an idea to refashion into a skirt by chopping off the bit above the pocket and sewing on an elastic. Voila! The twins love their ‘new’ skirts.

Thanks for stopping by. Until next time Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

 PS. If you’d like to see them in action they are after the menswear section of this Youtube video.

SWAP2017 Pt 5: Ansterick Holsten Sweater and an Experiment in pre washing yarn

Last year I was working full steam on a SWAP2017 wardrobe. You can read some of the previous SWAP2017 posts here <link here>:

For one of my uppers – I opted for a  knitted item. The inspiration was based on a Bella Freud 1970 Jumper . This jumper retails at £300.

The pattern I used was the Holsten jumper by Anstrick

Once I had selected the pattern the next challenge was finding the bright red yarn colour. Someone on Ravelry recommended Cascade Ultra Pima Cotton DK yarn. The yarn has a lovely lustre to it and it had a lipstick red shade that looked promising. I ordered several balls of different reds from various brands but this was the one that nailed it. Luckily they also had the black and white of the same yarn.

The next challenge was how to prevent bleeding. From the many posts that I read where people had knitted with red and white or black and white – there was a bleeding issue when the garment was washed. After ruminating on the issue for a while I thought that maybe I could try pre-washing the yarn before knitting to reduce any bleeding potential in the same way we prewash fabric for sewing.

Luckily the yarn comes in skeins. My first attempt was a bit of a travesty because I didnt do anything to prevent the yarn from tangling. On my second attempt, I loosely tied the skein at 4 different points so that I could easily reconstitute the skein.

The prewashing process involved filling the sink with hot water and soaking for about an hour, gently wringing the water out and repeating until the water ran clear. For the red this took approximately 4 soakings, the black took 6 soakings to run clear. I also did the white twice because I needed it to have a similar texture to the black and red.

After drying out the skeins I then had to wind them into yarn balls. There were a lot of online tutorials to help. I used a kitchen roll tube and spent several hours balling up the skein. It was tedious but I think it was worth it in the end. 

Dryng the prewashed yarn

Pre washed and un washed side by side
Prewashed on left. Has a ‘fuller’ look and feel. Unwashed on right.

 

I swatched with 3.75, then 3,5 but it was 3,25 that got the correct stitch gauge. I should have done some mods since the pattern calls for fingering 4 ply but my yarn was DK. However, I still do not understand these things so I went on ahead with the proviso that I would be trying it along the way to see what I need to change. On the whole this worked, I think I managed to get away with it :-).

This pattern knits up quite quick since it all stokinette stitch. It was also a great opportunity for me improve my Portuguese knitting skills. I think the fit is quite good. Yarn feels comfy against my skin.

The prewashing seems to have worked. When I washed this there was no bleeding.

And here I am wearing it last year.

The pattern instructions were very clear and well written. I learnt some new techniques like the saddle stitch for the raglan sleeve. It may not be the best but I had a great time knitting this. I’d have liked to do add in a HILA motif on the white section but my skills are not yet there. I am still very happy with this jumper.

Finally, I used just under 5 skeins of red and less than 1 skein each of black and white. The total cost of the yarn was £50.48. Not bad considering the inspiration retails at £300. Win!

Thanks for stopping by my little corner of the internets. Until next time, happy knitting!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for stopping by this corner of the interwebs.

Peace and love,

Hila

Girl’s Turtleneck Sweater 11/2017 131B #burdachallenge2018

A random #burdachallenge2018 post on IG made me aware of this BurdaStyle kids sweater pattern.

BurdaStyle 11/2017 #131B

Surprisingly I haven’t paid too much attention to kids sewing patterns in BurdaStyle Magazine.

I decided to give this a go because of the simplicity of the pattern.

No neck seam but just the shoulder and side seams only.

I used a fleece lined scuba fabric that I bought last year from B&M Fabrics (Leeds Market). This was one (pair) of my January #burdachallenge2018 makes and I was happy with how they turned out.

I used hot pink cuffing for the sleeve band and green jersey for the hem band. The other alteration was to omit the zip. My fabric had more than enough stretch to easily go over the head. With the zip this pattern would work with wovens.

They got the seal of approval from the twins and they love their sweaters. The sizing was spot on. I traced size 110 for their 104cms height. They will be wearing these for at least a couple of more years yet.

I am now going through my collection of magazines with a view to finding more kids patterns that I can try out. Have you sewn with the kids patterns from Burda?

 

Thanks for stopping by! And until next time, Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

Kids Sewing – Ottobre Kids Design Magazine and New Look

Over the past year I have been doing a lot of sewing for my kids. They love choosing fabrics whenever they come fabric shopping with me. Unfortunately I don’t always have time to write the individual blog posts for them so I have collected all the pictures I could find of some of the kids clothes.

New Look 6423 – this is the second time I have made these. The fabric was bought from B&M Fabrics and it is a great quality that has stood the test of many washes whilst still maintaining brightness.

This is a set from Ottobre Kids design Magazine Summer 2016 Issue. The leggings are capri length which I thought was cute for summer. The fabric was also from B&M Fabrics in Leeds Market. They do great quality jerseys there.
This dress is the same pattern as the T shirt above from Ottobre Kids but I just lengthened it. Ali akaThimberlina kindly gave us this fabric and it was enough to make a much loved dress.
These capri length leggings are great scrapbusters and made many more.
Neckline detail of another of the Ottobre T shirt
The fabric was also from Ali. Sewing buddies rock!
The T shirt has a side panel which gives it a bit of interest.

I love this rainbow cuffing that I bought from B&M Fabrics
Contrasting side panel
Ali used her coversticth machine to do the hems for me and I was smitten – so much that I decided to buy my own coverstitch machine.

I truly love sewing for them. This year I am aiming to do more kids sewing too.

Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, Happy Sewing everyone!

Peace and love,

Hila

Vogue 9259 Tropical Jumpsuit: Pattern Review

This is a long wide legged jumpsuit that I absolutely loved wearing last summer. Pardon me for posting such an obviously summery make in winter but bear with me, please. Spring is on the way and I am very excited about moving on to sewing with lightweight fabrics so this is whetting my appetite.

I knew that I was getting Vogue 9259 the moment I saw it. Unfortunately, I had to wait months before collecting my patterns while we visited the USA. It was worth the wait though.

It has a criss-cross halter neck front. Here is the line drawing:

The line drawing looks like the band is at the waist but I found that for me it was a smidge higher than my natural waist. I looked at the model pic and it also looks a bit higher than the waist. It is not uncomfortable or anything but it does make me look like I have very long legs.

Although we only had a few days where it was hot enough to wear this on its own I cant tell you how lovely it was! I loved the feel of the sun on my back and the breeze against my skin.

My initial worry about making it had been than my breasts wouldn’t be secured and that I would constantly be tucking them in. But this was not the case at all. I found that there was no gaping (to be fair I am not very endowed in that area when I am braless so I might not be best placed to recommend this if you are a larger cup size than B). On other days I wore it with a lightweight black elbow length cardigan.

I took my son to a birthday party that had a bouncy castle which I snuck into while everyone was singing Happy Birthday and had a go. No escapees. They were safe and secure. 

These days I am trying to qualify myself when I say that something was easy to make. As an intermediate seamstress, I found this to be a straightforward make that was easy to sew and get a good fit on. I cut my usual size 12 for Vogue patterns and made no alterations.

I do like the lightness of viscose. It was a swish factor that I love.

Verdict: Its a winner! Deep pockets and comfortable while making me look like I made an effort.

Thanks for stopping by, until next time, Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

xox

4th Birthday Dresses: Ottobre Summer 3/2016 #19

When my twins turned 3 years old in 2016 I left it until the very last minute to make them birthday outfits which turned out ok, but I knew they should have been so much better. You can read about it all here <link>. In 2017, armed with the determination that is bourne out of a desire to learn from a past mistake, I set out to make them the most awesome birthday dresses I could.

They love fabric shopping as much as I do and so I thought I’d let them choose the fabrics and the pattern. They flipped through my Ottobre Kids Design Magazines and they choose this fancy looking shirtdress. I heard them say things like twirly swirly.

Ottobre Kids Design Summer 3/2016

 

Though they are identical twins they actually have very different personalities. The floral print is a Liberty craft cotton and the multicolour geometric is a cotton lawn. Both were purchased from Leeds Market. I was really proud of myself for cutting into the Liberty as I had been precious about that for over 2 years :-).

Once the dresses were sewn up, they went through my buttons collection and made their choices.

The twins love their dresses and they love twirling in them.

I really enjoyed making these dresses with them. In future, I will take that co-creative approach as opposed to me just making something without their input. In theory, it should mean they are more likely to wear it.

I rate Ottobre Kids patterns as they are so true to size. I sewed size 110cms and my girls are about 102cm tall. The instructions are excellent. The armhole is finished with bias binding.

Thanks so much for stopping by and until next time, Happy Sewing!!!!

Peace and love,

Hila

xoxo

 

 

Butterick B6097 – Pattern Review

The story with this top is that it started as a Pinterest pin on my Clothes I Think I Can Make board.

Sometime later, I randomly stumbled upon a McCall Pattern Company all brand sale wherein I made the acquaintance of  Butterick B6097.

Butterick B6097

Butterick B6097 is described as a fitted shirt, has collar and peplum variations, princess seams, front button-down closure and button band. Technically speaking, this is a toile which turned out to be very wearable.

I used quilting cottons that I bought from Leeds Market. There was point in my early sewing life when I would buy 1m pieces of quilting cottons <why?> /sigh. Anyway, I had just enough to make this top in the short peplum style with box pleats. I can’t recall why I went for the peter pan collar but I think I wanted to practice finishing a peter pan collar with bias binding.

I cut a size 8 based on the finished bust measurement. I made no alterations at all. The fit is pretty spot on. It could do with a small swayback adjustment if I was being all perfectionist about it. But I’m not, so I won’t and that’s okay.

Butterick B6097
Butterick B6097 Box pleat detail

Armhole fininshed with bias tape.
Butterick B6097

I do like the peter pan collar 🙂

 

The style is ……..sassy. I feel quite sassy when I am wearing it. Now I just need to find some nice white cotton lawn fabric and finally realise the inspiration image.

Verdict – I will make again in solid neutral colour. Recommended with the caveat that I used finished garment measurement to select my size.

Thanks for stopping by. Until next time, Happy Sewing!!

Peace and love,

Hila

PS. I am nearly caught up blogging my 2017 items 🙂 That makes me happy.

 

 

Simple Sew Patterns The Cocoon Dress x2

Today I have something a little different to my usual style. In an effort to move out of my comfort zone, I decided to make this cocoon dress. The pattern came for free with Issue 8 of Sew Now magazine. Here is the pattern envelope with the line drawings.

 

 

Simple Sew Patterns – The Cocoon Dress

 

The style is very simple. AT the time that it came on to my radar, I was preparing for a family holiday to USA where we going to be at the beach in Ocean Grove, New Jersey. I knew that it got very hot and humid, I wanted something that wouldn’t be too formfitting.

I sewed the first make with a linen chambray type fabric that I bought from Jacks Fabrics in Leeds Market. Sewing it up really is very easy. No zips. No buttonholes. I eliminated the center front seam but cutting the front piece on a fold (I can’t recall why I did this but it worked out).

I staystitched the neckline and used stay tape to keep it from gaping. If there ever was an hour project then this surely is. By the time I made my second one – it was less than one hour from cutting to snipping the final thread.

The sizing was accurate. My bust measurement is between their size 8 and 10. I opted to cut size 10 which was just right. The pockets are nice and deep.

I confess a part of me was worried that this might look like a sack of potatoes on me. By the time I tried it on for fitting I got a bit more excited. It is so comfortable and quite stylish. I made a video immediately after I had been wearing it for a day because the number of compliments on the dress I received that day was astounding.

My personal philosophy about making my clothes is that I make and wear what makes me happy. When I am putting together an outfit – my concern isn’t primarily on how I look to others who see me. It is on how I feel and whether I like it. Of course its lovely when I get compliments on my outfits. But, when I have left my comfort zone and I receive compliments – its an even nicer feeling.  I digress….

Simple Sew Patterns The Cocoon Dress

And my YouTube review..

The second one was made using some fabric that I had been very precious about for a long time. The fabric was won in an Instagram competition wherein 2 meters of Nani Iro triple gauze fabric turned up on my doorstep – FREE!!!

I have oohed and aahed over this fabric for years. I thought it might work well with the Cocoon dress. Cutting was hard! There was plenty of wincing and bottom lip biting. But cut it, I did. It was a point of importance that I sewed it up straightaway in order to avoid buyers remorse so to speak.

A note on sewing with triple gauze…..triple gauze is made of 3 layers of gauze that are loosely woven together. Its about twice the thickness of double gauze. Being 100% cotton the fabric is breathable and incredibly soft. Sewing it however was not fun. The thickness created by the 4 layers of gauze added up. Though I have never quilted – I imagine that it was like sewing a quilt. After sewing one seam it was clear I had to use the walking foot which made things a bit easier.

In the end, I had a lovely deliciously comfortable dress, albeit that looks a bit like pyjamas. I love it. Its bright, lively and vibrant! It is the kind of dress that makes me feel obliged to project the energy it embodies.

Enough words…pictures…..

Simple Sew Patterns The Cocoon Dress

 

Verdict: Highly recommended! Another thing I love about this dress is that I can go braless without any obvious issues. Win!

Thanks for stopping by!  Until next time, Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

 

SWAP2017 Pt 4: Sewaholic Hollyburn & Granville Shirt

Hi guys!

Last year I was working full steam on a SWAP2017 wardrobe. You can read some of the previous SWAP2017 posts here <link here>:

For my lower, I had the Hollyburn skirt which was to be made in an orange bright orange fabric.

I bought the fabric from Fabworks. It’s a cotton twill weave which also has a geometric pattern. It has spandex it with some (about 3% stretch on the cross grain).

Instead of a facing, I used Petersham ribbon on the waistband. Pink satin bias binding on outside

Sewaholic Granville modified –

The fabric is linen dyed a navy blue using Dylon washing machine dye. This was one of the few successful results from my experiments with dyeing fabric.

The embroidery is from Kate N Rose patterns which I had bought over 3 years ago but hadnt ever bothered with it. It’s called Faraway Garden. When Kate was helping me with inspiration pictures I remembered that I had it somewhere in my digital files. Unfortunately marking dark fabric was challenging. Chalk faded away easily and my Frixion pens were not very easily visible. Patience is not one of my strong virtues and eventually, I reached a point which I just wasn’t bothered. But that’s ok – I realised that I am not yet at the beautiful intricate embroidery stage. That’s okay.

I eliminated the center front button placket. The front is sewn together with a flap for snaps of some sort (am yet to do this). I made it sleeveless by raising the armscye by 1/2″ and narrowing the shoulder by 3/4″. This makes it have a closer fit around the armhole. I bias bound the armholes using same linen fabric.

The idea was to have further embroidery on the front and back but seriously, it’s not my thing. I should have got appliques and in future, this is what I will do. As far as embroidery goes – I need to walk before I can run :-).

I am very happy with these 2 garments, more so because they are 2 of my most beloved patterns that I have made more than a dozen of collectively. Pictures….be warned the orange is really bright :-). Pictures were taken in May 2017.

Sewaholic Patterns Hollyburn Skirt and Granville Shirt

Guess the song from the dance pose 🙂

 

Thanks for stopping by this corner of the interwebs.

Peace and love,

Hila

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #105 Activewear Edition

I actually made this outfit in January 2017 (Yay for actually sewing a BurdaStyle magazine of the same month!).

Athletic Tank Top 01/2017 #105

Tha fabric for the top is a self wicking knit which has some stretch. The stretch is quite minimal and not like a t-shirt jersey. Unfortunately, I don’t know its exact specifics as it was part of a bundle of fabrics from MinervaCrafts that I had won on IG in 2016. It is very comfortable to wear and supports my bust well.

The top is made up of 8 pieces – nice seam detail to look at but a pain in the neck to deal with. First of all, when tracing it I forgot to write in the seam numbers that tell you which edge to join where and had to rip out twice and cut more pattern pieces (I was using an overlocker). Eventually, I got my head around it and it worked out nicely.  I even put in a fancy neon green exposed zip. The zip is purely decorative, in my opinion, as I can easily pull this over my head without using the zip. The next time I make it I will omit the zip.

I really like this top because despite all the seam lines it is very comfortable. The upper half is self-lined so no overlock seams rubbing against my skin. Its fussy but well worth it.

 

Athletic Leggings 01/2017 #106B #106B

The fabric for the leggings is deep dark brown ponte roma with a shiny surface. I quite liked the angular seams and the high waist of these sporty leggings. Though fussy to sew up if you are trying to line everything up, I think they are worth the hassle. The pattern actually calls for zips at the ankle side seams. No thanks.

 

For both patterns, I cut the size 38 without any adjustments. I have worn both of these quite a lot over the last year, especially for yoga classes. The leggings are a tad too warm in summer but perfect when the weather is on the cooler side (on account of the ponte).

This outfit was/is a win for me – a great addition to my activewear collection!

Athletic Tank Top BurdaStyle 01/2017 #105

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time, Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

McCalls Shirt dress M7387 Pattern Review

This was a dress that I made for a sewing challenge called #sewingtogetherforsummer last year. The challenge was to sew a shirtdress in time for the British summer (I know – its an oxymoron). Anyhow, I chose this pattern as it had been a recent addition to the stash from my epic US pattern haul.

McCalls M7387 is a top, tunic and dresses pattern. Its semi-fitted through bust and has a collar, back pleated into self-lined yoke with forward shoulder seams, and front-fly button closing.

I was drawn to the pattern by the high side slits and the super curved hemline. The fact that it has dolman style sleeves was also lovely. I made view D, size: small.

The fabric I used was bought from Jacks Fabrics during one of my many fabric shopping jaunts last year. It’s a lightweight rayon or viscose challis. I don’t normally go for black and white but this ikat print was attractive.

Sewing the pattern up was reasonably okay. The button placket is covered so that had a few tiny challenges which resulted in me eliminating the covered placket in favour for showing off my cute black rim buttons.

The style of this reminds me of the Deer and Doe Melilot which has similar sleeves. Curved hems are always a bit tricky to sew but with rayon a good pressing removes all evils.

The back pleat is a big one – not a regular box pleat. Consequently, it is very important to mark the notches and the direction of the fold for the pleat. When I make this again in the future I will be adding pockets – its the one thing that’s missing for me. The pattern envelope shows it worn with a belt but I much prefer it without one.

Its a joy to wear this dress – light and airy,  it was perfect for summer. Here is how I wore it most of the time. Sometimes I swapped the wedges for black flip-flops.

This pattern is great value all round – it has many variations which I am definitely interested in making. The next one will be view E in some rayon fabric languishing in my stash at the moment :-).

Thanks for stopping by! Have a wonderful day 🙂

Peace and love,

Hila