Burda Shift Dress 09/2015 #108

This is the project that made me realise a skill deficit; I had real problems lining this dress which made me set a 2017 new year resolution: to sew more lined garments.

I was attracted to this dress after seeing this picture.

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Burda Tank Dress 09/2015 #108 A/B

 

Sewing it was very easy. I cut a size 38 which is my Burda size. It is supposed to have front pockets by the princess seams but I couldn’t imagine using them – the dress is elegant and ruining the princess line with a bulky pocket? No, I wasn’t having it. I could have also added in-seam pockets at the side seam but I completely forgot. You know when you are sewing and everything is going swimmingly and the fabric is a pleasure to deal with – its easy to miss something.

The fabric was bought from Jacks Fabrics in Leeds Market. Unfortunately when I saw it they only had about 1.5 m (£3.80/meter) left which is a shame because I think I would have liked to make long coat out of this. The fabric is viscose wool mix which has a lovely textured hounds tooth pattern.

The shift dress is fitted at the bodice using dior darts (which are my new favourite darts now). It just skims the rest of my body being neither boxy nor tight. I like the boat neckline as well, it lends a Jackie O feel to the dress. I have styled it with a brooch as seen here on IG.

I initially thought that maybe that might make me look too air hostess’y but they do always look stylish so no problem there.

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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108
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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108 Collar
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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108 Detachable collar
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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108
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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108
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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108

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The lining is a bemberg in magenta which just feels luxurious against my skin and so worth the trouble I went to sew it. I ended up hand sewing the lining on to the armholes and neckline ( on the dress form) after several fails at ‘bagging the lining’. Determination and discipline got me through this because I knew if I moved on to the next project I wasn’t going to return to this for a really long time. So I doggedly finished it and its far from perfect. But I will learn to line it properly next time and will report back in autumn when I make another one in a glorious tartan :-).

Verdict – I will definitely be making another one. I like Burda patterns for their cheaper price point and how well they fit me as I had to make no adjustments at all to this. Still lining it was worth it as it fits like a dream and the luxurious feel of a dress gliding past your arms to settle on your shoulders is wonderful.

I’d love to make a colour block version like this MaxMara one here (RRP $650 btw):shift-dresscover_gal

Don’t you just love sewing for the options it gives to recreate very expensive looks?

As always, thanks for stopping by and until next time Happy sewing all!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

BurdaStyle Magazine 10/2014 #105 Cowl Neck Dress Pattern Review

Hello,

Let me preface this by saying that this is possibly my most favourite dress ever! Don’t believe me? Check out this IG video….

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BurdaStyle Magazine:Turtleneck 09/2010 #121A

Hello everyone,

Today’s post is a super quick one to share a very simple top. I made this from an old Burda magazine that I bought on Ebay last year. Here is a picture of it

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Burda 09/2010 #121A

It so happened that I was looking for a simple roll neck pattern and before I went buying or drafting a new one – I decided to browse my growing Burda Magazine collection. So glad I did that because I had never registered this pattern before. I quite like that it doesnt have a neck seam – makes for faster sewing.

I had 1m of John Kaldor Isabelle wool jersey that I bought in June. I just managed to fit this pattern and I was left with very satisfying slivers of fabric that indicate a most efficient use of the yardage! blog-pictures-coco-etc-276blog-pictures-coco-etc-277

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Back view
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Seamless neckline
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love this roll neck
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The sleeves are extra long
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I love this fabric so much – I bought 2 more meter in this colour for a dress.

I love this fabric and I have bought 2 more meters of this colour to make a dress.

Construction wise it comes together very quickly. I did not make any alterations to the pattern. I didn’t finish the roll neck edge as my fabric doesn’t unravel. I set in the sleeves and though it wasn’t the best job – it doesn’t look too bad. I finished the hems with a narrow zigzag. The sleeves are meant to be longer so that they have a ruched effect – love that.

I want to make another in black and gunmetal grey. Its a great foundation piece for my wardrobe.

So this makes my 12th Burda make this year and my goal has been reached. Here’s to more Burda makes from me in 2017!

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

BurdaStyle Magazine 12/2014 #114B Seamed Jersey Turtleneck Top

Hello everyone,

Here is another Burda make as I race towards the end of the year in which I must make at least 12 Burda garments. I do really like BurdaStyle Magazine and I am keen to get a 12 month subscription.

This is from the 12/2014 issue and it was the featured sewing course pattern which is great because its the only one that Burda will hold your hand and walk you through the entire process (very nice of them). Here is the line drawing.

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BurdaStyle 12/2014 #114B

I cut my usual size 38 and it fits perfectly (a good reason why I am keen of getting my subscription on for 2017). I made 3 changes:

  1. The sleeve head. It was HUGE – I mean incredibly poofy and combined with my broad shoulder I looked somewhat ….odd. I reduced it by a good 2″ to get to this ‘poof’ which IMO is a good balance. The rest of the sleeve did not disappoint – am quite enamoured with the bishop style sleeve and exaggerated cuff.
  2. I cut the back on a fold instead of having a centre back seam.
  3. I omitted the zip – my ponte has enough stretch to go over my head without a zip plus I wasn’t keen on the idea of a zip against the back of my neck – its a very sensitive area for me and one of the reasons why my hair is almost always tied.

Fabric wise I used a ponte knit that was left over from a Marfy dress I made (post coming soon). I am glad I had enough of this left over as I love this colour! Its a medium weight ponte. The instructions call for stabilising the princess seams but I didn’t do that since my fabric was sturdy enough. I have worn this at least 3 times already and its holding up just fine. I did stabilise the shoulder seams though ( a standard procedure for me with all my knit projects).

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Burdastyle 12/2014 #114B Top
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Back view

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Overall its a good pattern and I like that its easily adaptable into a sheath dress or add a peplum and it becomes a cute flirty dress. Go sleeveless, remove the polo neck and it will work in summer. Yes – there will definitely be more of this pattern in the future.

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Burda 05/2016 Bat Sleeve Dress #115B

Hello everyone,

Despite the cold weather in October I made a dress from the May edition of BurdaStyle Magazine. The style is called a bat sleeve dress. It may not be everyone’s cup of tea but I was intrigued by this pattern enough to make it top of my trace and make list. The pictures didn’t really do anything for me but it was the line drawing that grabbed me:

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BurdaStyle 05/2016 #115B

 

It almost looks like a cape doesn’t it? Anyway I had bought this winter storms ponte from B&M Fabrics which I thought could work well as a autumnal dress that could be layered. It’s that time of the year where I start to think a lot about layering things so this seemed like a good candidate. I pictured it with different colour roll neck jumpers underneath.

The instructions were quite good – though this is very simply constructed dress made up of 2 pieces (front and back) and a neckband. You just have to finish the arm flaps before draping them over each other and securing with the neck-band.

Which leads to the only fly in the ointment with the otherwise easy & quick dress to make – the neckband is too big. I used the Burda dimensions and it sort of stands away from the body. I tried hand sewing it down but I needed a do over which I wasnt willing to spend time on.

This tiny issue aside – it’s a good neutral addition to my wardrobe. I wasnt too sure about the fabric when I bought it – but I got it because of my tendency to get bright and bold colours – its confusing but I am trying to diversify IYSWIM. Anyhow I digress…pictures…..

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Burda 05/2016 #115b
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Back View

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Quite like that cape-y look on the shoulder

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Erm………I know……Fine! I will fix it!

Worn with a Sewaholic Renfrew top

Will I make it again? – Undecided. Its warm when I layer it and its very comfortable – a good candidate for a Christmas day dress perhaps? I cant help but feel that maybe with a lighter weight jersey this could be truly lovely….. We will have to see.

So this is number 9 of my Burda Challenge. I have to make 12 Burda things by the end of the year to justify a subscription in 2017. So here’s hoping I can get 3 more done by then :-).

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Burda Downloadable Lydia T shirt pattern review

I made this Lydia T-shirt – it was one of the first downloadable products I ever bought. Its only 79p so it’s a good deal. I cut the size 38 which is my Burda size.

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Burda Lydia #3197 T-shirt

It’s a basic, long-sleeve t-shirt. The main difference with most other t-shirts I am familiar with is the neckline construction. This one has facings – though this picture above doesn’t show the facing version – the instructions are just like for a facing you would find on a woven top. The sleeve is supposed to be set in but I prefer flat construction with jersey fabrics.

I made this out of pure curiosity to see how the neck would turn out. I used knit fusible interfacing for the facing pieces. After sewing them to the neckline I understitched.  I gotta say I am quite impressed so far. The neck line is very neat and I love that it looks good enough to wear with a smart skirt and pass for smart workwear. I will have to see how it performs after a few washes before trying out this technique again though. Have you tried finishing the neckline on a knit top with a facing?

Fabric wise- I used a John Kaldor cotton jersey that I bought from Fletcher’s Fabrics in Leeds Market. Its left over from a Moneta dress I made around the same time. It was an utter delight to work with this fabric; as is wearing it. The comfort level on this top is very high. All the hems were done with a twin needle. Shoulders were stabilised with fusible bias tape which I also used around the neckline so it wouldn’t stretch out.

Pictures…

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Burda Lydia T Shirt
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Burda Lydia T Shirt – back

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Verdict: A solid t-shirt pattern that gains extra points for having a great price point.

Thanks for stopping by. Until next time happy sewing !

Peace and love,

Hila

BurdaStyle Boho Blouse 04/2016 #107

Hello,

This top is the very last of my summer sewing. I had forgotten about it because I finished it some time in September when it was getting cool such that I didn’t even think to wear it. Its from the May 2016 issue – an excellent issue that has a lot of styles I am smitten with.

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Boho Blouse – I liked the collar and placket detail on this top

I sewed it using a lightweight cotton from B and M fabrics in Leeds market. I really liked the circular tile effect plus the blue overtones. For the contrasting placket and sleeve bands I used some leftover fabric from the most recent McCalls M6044. I thought the colours worked well together.

I cut a size 38 which is my Burda size and is always quite spot on. It sewed up very quickly – though I used french seams for a neat inside. The cotton has a slightly stiff handle to it which I hope will soften over time.

This took me longer to finish because after I put the bodice together I wasn’t sure whether the style would be something I’d like. But now that I finished it and tried it on I was quite pleasantly surprised that I like it, especially the sleeves. Perhaps it is the colour that blinds me but I am looking forward to spring 2017 when I can start wearing it in earnest. In future I will make it using something like a Tana lawn and make it tunic length.

I have styled it with my Birkins – they seem to go with everything! Pictures….

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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Collar back view
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French seams
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Sleeve band details

 

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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107

Now, I will stride forward towards autumn.

Thanks for stopping by and have a great weekend. I’ll be back on Sunday 🙂

Peace and love,

Hila

Burda Wrap Dress 07/2016 #101

Hello everyone,

I am super excited to share this wrap dress made from Burda 07 2016 edition. I really like this dress and it came together easily. Here is the line drawing.

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Burda 07/2016 #101 Wrap Dress

The instructions were actually quite okay on this (shock horror! Burda instructions actually making sense :-).

The straps are interesting because they are twisted together. I do like Burda for their approach to design. They always try to do unique design features.

Unfortunately I did not have enough fabric to pattern match properly. The lower flounce had to be cut on a different grain. I picked this jersey up  from Fabworks Mill Shop. You know I love the blues and purples with the Mediterranean tile effect. But mostly it had me at blue 🙂

I didn’t make a muslin but it came out alright. I do need to lengthen the bodice by about 1cm though to get the belt to sit spot on my waist.

All the edges and hems were finished with twin needle. I used bias tape for first time with this make. I needed to avert gaping and stretching out of armhole and neckline. I was mildly successful. I need to see how it behaves after a wash.

The style of this dress is very flattering and  I will be making it again. I love the swishyness and the fit over the bust. The overlap of the wrap dress is such that I dont have to worry about wardrobe malfunctions in high wind. Thats always been my fear with wrap dresses

-_-.

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Thanks for stopping by this little place on the interwebs.

Until next time. Happy Sewing!

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xox

Burda 07/2016 #119 Linen Midi Dress

Hello chums,

I made a dress from the Burdastyle June 2016 issue. The simple lines of the dress drew me plus I quite like how the neckline is structured. Here is the picture from the magazine:119-072016-2-b_large

For fabric I went with olive green linen fabric. The linen has just the right body to hold the bias cut pieces. Its a fabric hog because all the pattern pieces are cut on the bias. including the long neck ties.

A note on the cutting out instructions in the magazine….I was very annoyed because the instructions have you cut 2 of the back pieces. Turns out you only need the 1. I am certain that’s a typo. So if you are planing on making this please please remember you only need 1 back piece.

The instructions were unfathomable beyond the first 2 steps. At least Burda is consistent in that regards. However I do not mind – I rather found myself relishing the challenge – it took me back to my A Levels years when I would spend hours working on a complex calculus problem :-). I fared better in my A level days. Burda instructions are a whole other level. In the end I did what any self respecting seamster would do : I just pinned it all out first then I winged it.Blog pictures annad dresses etc 376Burda midi dressMidi dressBlog pictures annad dresses etc 377Blog pictures annad dresses etc 365Blog pictures annad dresses etc 379Blog pictures annad dresses etc 371

As you can see that back is mighty low and without the right support, things could slip but somewhere in the instructions it mentions elastic on the back. There are specific measurements for the elastic but I found it too slack and I had to shorten in by 2″for a snugger fit. I also took in the side seams by 3/4″ each side. Again this is because its all cut on the bias. The fit was fine by the time I finished.

I finished all the seams on the overlocker because I was fitting as I went. With the next one I’d like to use french seams. Once I discarded the Burda instructions – its actually a really quick make since there are no closures.

Quite like it and wore it to London where I got heaps of compliments. I was worried that the tie neck might be uncomfortable but it wasnt at all even after wearing it all day like I did. Because its all cut on the bias , the weave loosened out as the day went by  it does drag lower in the back as the day goes on. It could do with taking it in another 1/2″ pinched on each side.

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In London..

I’d like at least one more, possibly in a dark navy linen…..

Here is a little video I made for my OOTD on Instagram. Just click play – I only just realised you can hear my kids yelling in the background 🙂

Thanks for stopping by my little corner of the interwebs,

Peace and love,

Hila

XOX

 

Another Burda 02/2016 #103

Hello everyone,

Super quick post because I made another one of the high low top from the February issue of Burda. First one I made here with a yellow spot back.

I made in the same beige/ivory T-shirt weight jersey that was left over from last time. The back is a satin synthetic that I picked up from Fabworks Mill Shop, Dewsbury during the Spoolettes meet up in Feb. It has a beautiful shine to it and feels very soft on the skin. I only made one change this time: I sewed the pleat down about 2 inches below the neckline. I like it.Burda High Low top 022016

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