Penultimate Summer Sewing aka Another Sewaholic Hollyburn Skirt…this time in linen

Hello again,

Let me start by saying that this is my last Hollyburn for a while (I promise 🙂). As the seventh one it doesnt need a lot of ceremony so here it is in linen…..

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Sewaholic Hollyburn Skirt

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Side View : Hollyburn SKirt
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Inner waistband detail
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Hem
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Centered zip
insides
Lining
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Gratuitous twirl shot
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Sewaholic Hollyburn Skirt
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Hollyburn Skirt the 7th

Again I am more than pleased with this skirt and I still have an appetite for another Hollyburn…….

Thank you for stopping by and until next time Happy Sewing 🙂

Peace and love,

Hila

Alterations to pattern: changed from straight waistband to a contoured waistband using tutorial from A Fashionable Stitch (I did this alteration on my third Holyburn and haven’t looked back since).

 

Another Denim Sewaholic Hollyburn Skirt

Hello chums,

I have only gone and made another of my favourite skirt sewing pattern. Since giving away my denim Holyburn back in April (it was a bit big ), I needed another one.

A true TNT pattern it took me just under 4 hours to make from start to finish including cutting.I normally expect a Holyburn to take me less than 3 hours but the addition of an exposed zipper complicated things somewhat.

Alterations to pattern: changed from straight waistband to a contoured waistband using tutorial from A Fashionable Stitch (I did this alteration on my third Holyburn and haven’t looked back since).

Construction Notes:

Medium weight indigo denim fabric.  I used a hammer a few times to flatten seams. The waistband lining is Cupro left over from my tailored jacket V8601. I used grey bias binding on the hem. Old shirt for pockets.  An exposed zip using Lladybird’s tutorial. I wasn’t planning on an exposed zip but when Lauren posted her tutorial it bolstered my confidence to give it a go.

I should also mention that I started this skirt for the OutfitAlong OAL2016  challenge of which the counterpart is a Chuck sweater that I started knitting and still haven’t finished….yet. Anyhow pictures 🙂

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Sewaholic Holyburn Skirt
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Sewaholic Holyburn Skirt
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Sewaholic Holyburn Skirt
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Pocket lining
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Obligatory twirl shot. Sewaholic Holyburn Skirt
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Bias binding on hem
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Sewaholic Holyburn Skirt
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Sewaholic Holyburn Skirt
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Sewaholic Holyburn Skirt
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Sewaholic Holyburn Skirt
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Exposed zip
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Insides back
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insides front
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Sewaholic Holyburn Skirt

I love this skirt! I am so grateful to the friend who insisted on wanting the old Holyburn. If she had never asked (and persisted), I would not have had the chance to make a much better fitting and better sewn skirt. This giving away my me mades malarkey may yet have some benefits 🙂

 Thanks for stopping by. I guess the denim skirt can count as the beginning of autumn sewing? 🙂

Have you started on your autumn sewing yet ? I will be back soon with my autumn mood board.

Peace and love,

hila

 

 

Burda 07/2016 #119 Linen Midi Dress

Hello chums,

I made a dress from the Burdastyle June 2016 issue. The simple lines of the dress drew me plus I quite like how the neckline is structured. Here is the picture from the magazine:119-072016-2-b_large

For fabric I went with olive green linen fabric. The linen has just the right body to hold the bias cut pieces. Its a fabric hog because all the pattern pieces are cut on the bias. including the long neck ties.

A note on the cutting out instructions in the magazine….I was very annoyed because the instructions have you cut 2 of the back pieces. Turns out you only need the 1. I am certain that’s a typo. So if you are planing on making this please please remember you only need 1 back piece.

The instructions were unfathomable beyond the first 2 steps. At least Burda is consistent in that regards. However I do not mind – I rather found myself relishing the challenge – it took me back to my A Levels years when I would spend hours working on a complex calculus problem :-). I fared better in my A level days. Burda instructions are a whole other level. In the end I did what any self respecting seamster would do : I just pinned it all out first then I winged it.Blog pictures annad dresses etc 376Burda midi dressMidi dressBlog pictures annad dresses etc 377Blog pictures annad dresses etc 365Blog pictures annad dresses etc 379Blog pictures annad dresses etc 371

As you can see that back is mighty low and without the right support, things could slip but somewhere in the instructions it mentions elastic on the back. There are specific measurements for the elastic but I found it too slack and I had to shorten in by 2″for a snugger fit. I also took in the side seams by 3/4″ each side. Again this is because its all cut on the bias. The fit was fine by the time I finished.

I finished all the seams on the overlocker because I was fitting as I went. With the next one I’d like to use french seams. Once I discarded the Burda instructions – its actually a really quick make since there are no closures.

Quite like it and wore it to London where I got heaps of compliments. I was worried that the tie neck might be uncomfortable but it wasnt at all even after wearing it all day like I did. Because its all cut on the bias , the weave loosened out as the day went by  it does drag lower in the back as the day goes on. It could do with taking it in another 1/2″ pinched on each side.

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In London..

I’d like at least one more, possibly in a dark navy linen…..

Here is a little video I made for my OOTD on Instagram. Just click play – I only just realised you can hear my kids yelling in the background 🙂

Thanks for stopping by my little corner of the interwebs,

Peace and love,

Hila

XOX

 

A self drafted skirt…using Winifred Aldrich’s Metric Pattern cutting for Womenswear book.

Hello chums!

Phew I am really trying to catch on all my blog posts before the beginning of September so apologies in advance for the project dump that will be happening in the next week. This is another one of my UFOs that I tackled after getting back in May.

Ok here is a skirt (in progress) that should have been finished over 2 years ago when I started working on it. Believe it or not but I actually started this before even buying the Suzy Furrer Craftsy class. From early on when I read about bloggers who were drafting their own patterns, I was fascinated and keen to try it out so I borrowed the Winifred Aldrich book from the library.

The inspiration for my skirt was this Boden skirt that I just loved but couldn’t afford.2e5c4298c107dd1a7417658f5aca3b79

In terms of the drafting instructions – they were quite easy to follow. The ease on the block was quite considerable and I had to take in about 2 inches in total. I made 3 muslins in total. Once I had a 2 dart tailored skirt draft that seemed to work I then had to make princess line seams which went well and I decided to add pockets as well.

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Lowered waist on front side panels.
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Playing around with fun topstitching
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The 2 dart sloper makes for a nice back fit.
Self drafted skirt
Line wrinkling like mad…
Interiors
The insides – finished by overlocker

I added a contoured waist on either side of the front center panel with the pockets angled straight across. I think it it sort of worked but I took forever with this. This is mock up number 4 I think. I used linen but really I need to use a woolen as my intended final garment is a woolen. The trick with the wool will be dealing with the bulk – there are places where there will be 4 layers of fabric intersecting. Thought with linen its manageable – I will need to think about this. Its supposed to be lined but hey Done is better than perfect right? I simply finished the waist with a petersham ribbon. (my woolen one will be lined. I did draft the facing and lining pattern pieces. I found the length perhaps a tad too long and will reduce it by another inch. If I do that I will add the vents which I skipped in this muslin.

Its a workable pattern I think and I am finally going to make it using a pink tweed wool that is part of my preciousness fabric stash 🙂

But that will be sooner rather later :-).

Thanks for stopping by!

Peace and love,

Hila

XOX

PS. This is not a review of the Winifred Aldrich book. I have not made enough from this book yet to justify an opinion on it. I hope in future to make more from this book. So far the main thing I have noticed is the huge amount of ease with the initial draft.

 

PaulineAlice Carme Blouse + Mindless musings on Round 2 of the Pattern Review Sewing Bee….

Hello all!

Hope your day is good thus far. I thought I would share what I have been up to since my last post after finding out I was in Round 2 of PR Sewing Bee. Getting through turned out to be a double edged sword. Frustrating and joyful in equal measure.

On the one hand I explored (albeit in a rush different embellishment techniques) which was exciting but on the other hand my plan changed so many times.

My main issue was that I want to make things I will wear regularly not showpieces. I also am only using stash items. Lord knows I have a huge stash and it needs to be worked through.

With those 2 limitations I foraged around looking at different embellishing techniques. I generally haven’t done much by way of embellishing. I have had misadventures in dyeing – that was starting point for me.

Tried out crosssticthing…too folksy.

I considered stamping hearts in bronze on the linen but it was… meh.2015-09-16 09.45.10Tried machine decorative stitching…

2015-09-14 15.13.53Even made a muslin of Vogue 8280 with modified circle skirt..it was underwhelming….2015-09-13 19.20.23

I eventually settled on the Carme blouse. Here is my review:

What type of fabric did you start with for your project?

100% lightweight linen in a pastel lilac colour.

What techniques did you use to modify your fabric?
2 Techniques used : Dyeing and Sashiko embroidery.
Machine Dye
This lilac linen has been in my stash for more than a year so I decided to use Navy Blue Dylon Machine Dye. I have dyed fabric previously with mixed results but machine dyeing has been consistent the 2 times I have used it so I felt it was a safe bet that I wouldn’t muck up. I did have to run my washer on empty to make sure there no dye left in the machine. For me that’s the scary part of machine dyeing…

Once I got the colour dyed I went through a long cycle of dithering over what to do to the fabric. I did some cross-stitch, machine embroidery, stamping but each had issues around the time frame. 5 days into the challenge after making a dress muslin I was still vacillating between debilitating indecision and mad panic. It was at this point I came across Sashiko embroidery.I found calm and inspiration in the simple, geometric patterns.
Sashiko is a form of decorative reinforcement stitching or functional embroidery from Japan.
I thought Yes! Running stitch is going to be dead easy and quick right? Wrong!!! Having no luxury of time for changing my mind I stopped looking and committed…well…I had to because I was running out of time -_-.

Step 1. Printed out a variation on the Uroko (fish scale) pattern.

Step 2: taped 6 A4 pages together so I could have a large template to copy from.

Step 3: traced the pattern onto lightweight fusible interfacing. Ok this took forever. Making sure the interfacing didn’t move while writing on it meant I ended up using fine point Sharpie to move faster. 3 hours to trace! 3 whole hours!!!

Step 4: cut the fabric perfectly on grain

Step 5: fused the traced out interfacing to the wrong side of my fabric making sure the abutting scales lined up on the straightgrain and that the bottom of the scallops were sitting on the cross grain. Again that took ages.

Step 6: All that excruciating lining up of fabric and interfacing – move it to the ironing board.

Step 7: Not even my newborn babies have ever been handled as delicately as when moving the 2 piece of fabric.

Step 8: Fused. Phew (huge sigh of relief). Surely the most difficult part is over yes?

Step 9: Gathered embroidery materials (i.e dug around my sewing cave trying to find the embroidery floss bought over 2 years ago….
*. Technically speaking you are supposed to use speciality Sashiko needles and thread

Step 10: Embroidered. I was happy with 3 strand floss. The Sashiko was slow going because you have to make sure it doesn’t pucker.
*There are many rules and ritual behind this craft. I definitely am not anywhere near a Sashiko beginner and I probably broke a lot of Sashiko rules while making this.

Step 11 Gave up after 2 straight days of hand sewing every spare moment I had PLUS burning the midnight oil. I realised I wasn’t going to be able to make enough of the fabric in time to sew a high quality garment. It started off fun but….. ai yai yai! . My eyes and my fingers got sore quickly… I was not hard core enough to endure and finish all the fabric that I was supposed to embroider. More on how I dealt with that later on…..On the plus I had Netflix as background noise during my night sessions and ‘watched’ a lot of stuff 

What pattern(s) did you use for your garment, or is your entry self-drafted or draped?

I used PaulineAlice Carme blouse. With this bee I have 2 extra self imposed criteria 1. To use things in my stash and 2) to make things already on my sewing list that I know I will wear. Having made this once before (and LOVE it) I was confident I would wear the finished garment. My plan was to make enough Sashikoed fabric for the bodice, back and sleeves and the bib yoke would be plain. HOWEVER as mentioned above I could not make enough fabric in time.
It was then that I switched it around and went for embroidered bib yoke instead. Since I had more fabric than just for the bib yoke, I also added a back yoke. I didn’t want the stand collar so I just eliminated that. I was going to have a button placket on the front but I just could not bring myself to cut into that embroidery. It took a looooong time to make! So I didn’t sew the placket. Instead I made 2″ wide bias binding out of the dyed navy linen and finished the neckline. I didn’t want any stitching on the yoke. In order to achieve that I sewed the bias binding right side to wrong side of fabric first then folded the bias binding over the front and edgestitched.
I also lowered the neckline by an inch to make it pullover top. French seams on all seams except for armholes. I used overlocker for the armholes – mostly because I didn’t have time and I needed to finish. It still looks neat on the inside though.

How does your garment show off your fabric modifications?
The 2 yokes really allow the striking elegance of the Sashiko embroidery stand out. Especially as the white cotton thread on the deep blue linen gives the Sashiko its distinctive appearance.
Its a perfect versatile and easy-going casual top look.. The clean lines and simplicity of the garment design make a feature of Sashiko embroidery. I am really glad I didn’t sew the button placket on the front as the flow of the fish scales would have been interrupted.

Indicate here that you included the required photographs. Remember that the Front and Back photographs must be on a live person (the head can be omitted / obscured if desired):
1. Started fabric [Yes] 2. Front [Yes]:
3. Back [Yes]:
4. [Optional]: Yes
5. [Optional]:Yes

What particular features would you like to point out to the judges?

So the yoke has some delicate running stitching on it. In hindsight I think it’s best to Sashiko a piece already cut out so you don;t have loose threads hanging about. To this end using a pin I dabbed glue on loose ends once I had cut the yokes out. This involved another 24 hours of waiting for glue to dry. The raw side had to be protected so for the front I encased the bib in a silk fabric harvested from an old car boot find that I never wore. I sewed the yoke and lining right sides together on the curved outer edge then turned out to have neat bound edge. Also used the silk for the cuffs. I LOVE this feature so much. The floral print contrasts so beautifully plus the silk feels heavenly against my chest when I am wearing it.
On the back yoke I just folded the seam allowance under the bottom edge of the yoke then placed it over the back bodice piece -wrong side of yoke on right side of back bodice. Edge stitched straight edge and basted the armhole and neckline so it would act as one piece.

Any other details that you want to share about your fabric modification or the garment you made from the fabric?
Sahiko looks easy but I don’t think so. I think you have to really think about how you are going to finish garment before doing the Sashiko. I learnt quite a fair amount doing this challenge. Would I make something with Sashiko in 5 days again? Absolutely not. But without any time constraints I might make something over a much longer period of time. I am very pleased that I have managed to achieve a clean and elegant end result that I will wear and love. I’d like to thank the Pattern Review committee for coming up with a challenge that has stretched me well beyond my comfort zone. Looking forward to the next challenge which I plan on doing regardless of whether I go through or not.

Cue pictures….Back Collage Carme Blouse Interiors Collage picture one sashiko colage sEPT 2015 204 sEPT 2015 247 sEPT 2015 248 sEPT 2015 250 sEPT 2015 251 sEPT 2015 261

I love this Carme top so much ! Unfortunately I finished sewing it Sunday night and couldn’t get pictures done until Monday. It was wet and raining all day so I was stuck with indoor pictures on a poorly lit day. It had to do because of the deadline. I was seriously blown away by the entries for Round 2 proving once again how super creative and amazingly talented the sewing community is. I don’t envy the judges at all.They announce on September 25 who gets through to the next round….will keep you posted!

Thanks for stopping by my little corner of the interwebs!

Happy sewing!

Hila

XoX

 

 

 

 

 

McCalls 5431 and adventures in dyeing fabric

Hello everyone!

I am back with a quick post sharing my misadventures in dyeing fabric and the making of McCalls 5431. This flared skirt has a yoke and back zipper closure; HUGE pockets! That illustration had me at hello. HUGE pockets! Purchased last year but only made about 3 months ago.

McCalls M5431

I made it in….linen! Lilac linen. This skirt consumes a lot of fabric. I made View D which is the longest skirt. The construction is very straight forward, similar to Hollyburn skirt for those who are familiar. For me the sizing was a bit on the larger side. Even though I went with the waist size nearest to my waist measurement I still had to take out 1.5″ in the center back seam to get the fit that looks like the pictures. Otherwise it was hanging off my hip (belly dancer style). Continue reading

The Shell top Butterick B5948

Hello everyone!

Happy Thursday! As I write this post its raining and has been raining for the last three days…..Dude where’s summer? ANyhow, tough trying to keep little people entertained. I consider myself an energy management specialist. You see my theory is: if I tire them out they will be less fussy when eating (plus they will be super hungry after burning off a lot of calories) and more importantly they will easily drop off to sleep :-). Easy enough to achieve when one can go outside – indoors its more challenging. C’est la vie.

Thank you so much for all your comments on my last post about my sewing queue. I am a bit of an efficiency freak – each new semester my undergrads get this intro “Good morning everyone! I am Hila and I am an operations management junkie and over the next 12 weeks I hope you will become ops junkies too!”. Yes I am a geek 🙂

Now moving on to the good stuff. I made this Butterick B5948 top almost 2 months ago. Its a loose-fitting, pullover top. I bought the pattern during my early sewing days (last year) where I just bought anything that was on sale (fess up, we all went through that stage right?). It came back to my attention after I decided that I needed a simple well fitting shell top that used less than 1m of fabric. The idea was I could buy 1m of expensive fabric (e.g. Liberty, Nani Iro) and be able to make a wearable top that could be thrown over jeans or a skirt. Continue reading

Another self drafted skirt….

Hi everyone!

I made this skirt a while back but haven’t got round to blogging it. Its exactly the same as my last self drafted skirt except for I lengthened by 4 inches. I cut a straight line along the low hip, added 4″ and trued up the side seams. I quite like the length and the slim A line look of the skirt.

The lining is a medium weight polyester with a tight weave. I picked it up for 50p/m at a car boot sale in Essex. The colour complimented the cotton of the skirt.floral 1 floral2 floral3The fabric is a 100% cotton that I picked up for £2.95/m so its a bargain really. It sews and irons nicely. Not quite like my favourites linen and lawn but its well behaved. I quite liked the flowers on it but on a black background. A bit shabby chic but not quite…..May Day Essex Trip 436May Day Essex Trip 437 floral4 Floral5

I have worn the skirt several times since making it and the colour has faded somewhat. A bit disappointing but the skirt still looks  nice on. Still some refining needed on the lining construction. I probably need to get a book or something….. Anyway here is my IG from last week wearing this skirt. Come hang out on IG where I post my me made stuff and yoga challenges 🙂

Happy weekend!

Hila

xox

Stress free Giselle dresses: ONE Pattern TWO Takes

Hello everyone!

I am excited to share my last entry for IPM2015 over at The monthly stitch. I cant believe IPM is nearly over – its been a blast so far and I have added some really great pieces to my evergrowing handmade wardrobe. The Pattern I chose for 1 pattern 2 Takes is Kate and Rose’s Giselle dress.

Decided on this pattern as I have made a winter Giselle before here for Froctober. I love and wear this dress regularly. Making both dresses was stress free.PicMonkey Collage

Dress 1 is view A with the shaped midriff. I made it in linen. The linen was dyed Jeans blue using Dylon fabric dye. I am very pleased with the result. I knew I wanted to use the decorative stitches on my machine to create a feature of what was otherwise a plain dress. So using my colour wheel I narrowed down to three colours which I auditioned on scraps and decided on  mustard gold thread. Its spun polyester from my stash – nothing fancy. While trying out the stitches it it occured to me that the stitches would look good on the V neck as well. I played around with the settings and got a size of stars I liked. For the bias binding I made linen binding but I thought how cute would it be to have some contrast floral binding instead and whoop whoop! A lovely inside with floral contrasts.

As much as I love my winter Giselle I have always felt that it needed pockets so for this one  I drafted some pockets to go in the side seams. But to give them more support I drafted them so the top part of the pocket is also on the waist. I am hoping it will reduce gaping when pocket is in use. For the pockets, left over scraps from my Granville shirt were used – a fabric I love dearly. It cotton poplin so a good match for linen.

For the hem it had to be three lines of star stitching. They are not the same size each gets slightly smaller. Its a teeny tiny detail but I love it. Which leads me to my top tips for sewing a decorative hem (it was a steep learning curve for me).

1. Always start with a full bobbin. The last thing you want is to run out and have to loose your setting while you refill a bobbin.

2. At the end leave long thread tails so you can thread a needle and neatly move thread behind and then cut. Makes for a neat finish.

3. Steam, not press, but steam to set the stitches on both sides. Its a nice luxe finish. (less flat).

Not much else to say except that we were in Essex last weekend and took advantage to get some location shots 😉

Dress 2 is view B which is a sleeveless maxi dress with empire waist and tiered skirt. The fabric is a delicious scrummy cotton lawn! Hello new love of my sewing life! Cutting into lawn: orgasmic!. Sewing lawn: orgasmic! Its such a fantastic material to work with! I honestly dont know why its taken me so long to get round to this marvellous fabric! Speaking of which I picked this up at Leeds market. At £7/m it was a splurge for me but those colours! When I bought the fabric I had no idea what to do with it but when this challenge popped up the haze lifted! Only problem was I didnt have enough fabric. The skirt would be fuller but I made do with what I had. It still looks good.

I used black satin bias binding for armholes and neckline. For the contrast empire waist I wanted to add a bit of texture to it and used the decorative top stitcing. The only disappointment was the black contrast fabric which I purchased on Ebay sold as 100% cotton poplin. But I dont think its 100% cotton because when I used the cotton setting on my iron it burnt the fabric. I think its actually polycotton. Its stiff and unyielding compared to the lawn. Ah well you live and learn. Its still a fun dress. Lush to wear and so comfortable!

I love these dress and they are perfect for summery hot days. Now come on Summer I am ready and waiting for you! Pretty please come. We in the sewing community have made so many lovely things for you. Have you made something waiting for summer to come too?

Thanks ever so much for stopping by! Happy sewing everyone!

Hila

X0X

More Self drafted skirts

Hi everyone!

Remember my  post reviewing Suzy Furrer’s Craftsy Class? Well I have been at it and drafted this little A line mini skirt.

 

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I lowered the waist and drafted a contoured waistband. The pocket drafting lesson was really easy to follow and after my first attempt I have working pockets! Yay!
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The fit came out perfect even if I do say so myself.
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Fabric is linen (my favourite) and lined with an anti cling fabric I bought off Ebay ages ago for a now forgotten project ;-).
Mini
I like this skirt! More to come soon.

mini 1

Mini 2
In went the invisible zip and tralalala……
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Wonky factor here! I didnt cut my lining properly……ah well Done is better than perfect 😉

After much pondering I have reached the conclusion that I might actually really like skirts! 😉

Thanks for stopping by and happy sewing everyone!

Hila

XoX

PS. I love sewing and the sense of power it gives me over what I wear but I have to say that I love pattern drafting ! It makes me feel like I’ve got the power. Do you know what I mean?ivegotthepower

New Look 6145: My entry for Simplicity Sewing Competition

He-lo everyone!

Hope you are all having fantastic week! I am getting over a bug that had me out of sewing action all weekend! Grrr! May has not been great because I have had 2 weekends in which I was really poorly. I am determined not to catch anything else. Its difficult with little people at school bringing back all sorts of stuff. And yes it meant little ones were sick as well = no fun ;-(

Even worse still no sewing but I am going to make up for that next week when I am done with all the marking I have to do this coming week.

Anyway rant over! Now back to the good stuff! I am so excited to share with you this  shift dress I love so much.

First of all its an entry into the Simplicity Star Sewist Competition. There are 3 patterns to choose from and the challenge is to use the patterns as a basis for your own bespoke creation. The only rule is that there are no rules! Using the pattern as your foundation, go wild with fabric, colour, nips here, tucks there and feel free to accessorise to the hilt! Whether fabric is your forte or your signature style is more haute couture, simply show us what you’re made of and stamp your very own style on these patterns.

Anyway it also means you get a free pattern. Well you had me at free pattern! Having chosen the shift dress New Look 6145 I filled out the form and received my free pattern in early May.

sketches
My various sketches for customizing the sift dress.

This dress started life on the back of water bill envelope where I sketched out ideas for a shift dress while in the car on the way back from a family trip. But while I was deciding what to make I had to make the muslin straight away to get the fit right before adding any design features.

I knew I wanted it to be sleeveless and I wanted it to be made of linen. Making the muslin was quick work because there were only 3 pieces. I had to do a sway back adjustment. I also bowed out the darts a further 1/4″ in the back for a better fit. The neck had some gaping which I pinned out and the pivoted out on the flat pattern to create a new pattern piece. Those issues sorted I had a perfect fitting dress to work with. Raised the hem a bit and I eliminated the zip as I found  I could easily slip it on and off. Next the design features….

I decided on a bib because I had just bought a pintuck foot and thought it would be great to try it out.The bib was traced of a bowl an straing lines. I used a pintuck  foot – a new and wonderful experience in concentrated sewing. I was in sewing genius state while doing the pintucks! It was such an involved task that bombs could have been going off an I wouldn’t have noticed! I had to cut a rectangular piece of linen and mark the pintuck lines precisely 3/8″ apart. I used my pattern wheel for this. For the pintuck foot I needed to thread my 2.0cm twin needle (I really dislike threading the twin needle). Once I was set up it took about 40 minutes to do all the pintucks. It should take less but my upper thread kept breaking. So the pintucks are not the neatest.To protect the pintucks I interlined with cotton voile and I glad i did that because it feel so nice when I am wearing it.bib collage

The faux button placket went in next. This was easy just drawing out a strip 5/8″ wide then adding seam allowances and pressing under before topstitiching on the center of the bib.

The fabric is a medium weight linen – one of my favourite fabrics to work with. I love the colour – a neutral olive and I knew I wanted the bib to be a contrast colour. Decided on an deep cream linen contrast for the bib to get a 60s like vibe to it. I toyed with the idea of a bib in the same colour but with contrast piping around it. Idea struck out because I didn’t have a piping foot and I am still scared of piping ;-).

nl6145 19
For the interiors I used french seams on the sides and shoulders while the back seam is overlocked (I cant remember why I did that). I decided on facing instead of bias binding for the neckline because I needed it to have more strength plus more importantly to create a clean finish without visible topstitching. The armholes are bias bound.
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It was always going to mother of pearl buttons ;-).

Wouldn’t be in true SaturdayNightStich style without loads of pictures :-). nl6145 7 nl6145 4 nl6145 3 Nl6145 1 nl6145 11 nl6145 12 nl6145 14 nl6145 16

All in all I love this little number and can see myself making more variations of this.

Thanks so much for stopping  by and Happy sewing until next time!

Hila

XoX