Another Giselle Maxi Dress for Indie Pattern Month 2017

July is Indie Pattern Month over at The Monthly Stitch. Its a month set aside for celebrating indie patterns. I always the challenges set by Kat and Mel and this year is no exception. Week 1 is dresses and I made yet another Giselle maxi dress using fabric bought from my first Yorkshire Spoolette meet up in Feb 2016 <link here>. Tangentially, I have used all but 1 of the fabrics I bought then and that’s great for me :-). I digress, lets get to it ……..

Can I just start off by saying that I love this dress! OK. So when Kat and Mel announced the themes I was pleased to see that dresses were in Week 1. It didn’t take me long at all to decide on which indie pattern dress to make – Giselle by Kate and Rose Patterns.

I have made 3 of them ( here and here) before but none in a rayon challis fabric. The fabric is irresistibly soft and I  very nearly made pyjamas with it. It also gets double points for stash busting as it has been in the stash since Feb 2016 :-).

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Since I have sewn this before fitting was not an issue. I made the version with the under bust yoke but sleeveless. The sleeves and neckline were finished with cotton bias binding.

This is a quick dress to sew up. The skirt panels are basically rectangles that are gathered and sewn together. I always add in seam pockets to this pattern as it comes without pockets and that’s my only complaint (a very minor one 🙂). I finished my seams with the overlocker.

Its a loose fit easy to wear dress. Very swishy and its one of those dresses that always has me on my best posture. You know the sort of dress you feel like you are letting it down if you slouch or don’t stand proud :-).

Thanks for stopping by!

Peace and love,

Hila

Burda 06/2016 #101C Maxified Dress

I made this dress using a birdy fabric that I had bought some time ago but was quite precious about it. The challenge was just perfect – it made me brave enough to cut into the birds :-). I had bought the viscose jersey from B&M Fabrics in Leeds.

I wanted a simple pattern with few seam lines to maximise the impact of the birds. Enter Burda 06/2016 #101C dress. Here is the line drawing which shows the simplicity of this pattern.

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The dress is meant to be a mini but I maxified it for full impact 🙂 Sewing it up was so fast and took less than an hour to sew up. I opted to sew a neckband for a t-shirt look.

The dress is so comfortable and I love it.

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Burda 06/2016 101C
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Burda 06/2016 101C

I can’t help but feel like lifting off and flying when wearing this dress. Thanks for this challenge Kat and Mel! Now, I need to go finish my Apron challenge make :-).

Thanks for stopping by!

Hila

Echino Mod Mini aka Another self drafted skirt….

Hi everyone!

Allow me to present another self drafted skirt that I started on in 2015! I have a habit of starting a blog post for a project that has been cut out – that way I sort of have an idea of how long the project took to complete. Well this one has  been sitting at the bottom of my 32 drafts queue for a really long time :-). Still better late than never m’kay. The pattern is the same as this A Line skirt here but without the pockets and a tad bit shorter. Continue reading

BurdaStyle Magazine 10/2014 #105 Cowl Neck Dress Pattern Review

Hello,

Let me preface this by saying that this is possibly my most favourite dress ever! Don’t believe me? Check out this IG video….

Continue reading

Lekala 4437: A Christmas Day Dress

Season’s greetings to all. I hope you are all enjoying Christmas Day. I am thoroughly bushed and looking forward to bedtime. We have just finished bedtime for the kids and they were so tired that they fell asleep while stories were still being read – a rare occurrence.

I thought I may have time to share a quick post on my little red dress that I wore for today. Its a dress made for The Little Red Dress Challenge which was created by RunningNStyle. Basically anyone who wanted to could make a red dress for the festive season. This challenge fitted in with my plans so I took it up.

I rather ran out of time and decided to use a Lekala pattern as I know I dont need to make a toile. The pattern I chose was Lekala 4437. Here is the line drawing

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Lekala 4437

I bought the fabric from B&M Fabrics during SewUpNorth. Its a stretch fabric that is just slightly lighter in weight than ponte. Its almost got the look of kids polo shirts , you know , the ones for school. Since it has stretch I omitted the zip. I sewed it all up on the overlocker except for attaching the collar facing. The collar facing is interfaced (I used normal interfacing) – though in future I will use a heavier weight interfacing  to give the collar more structure.

I wore it all day today until after our huge festive dinner where I indulged to the extent that I looked nearly 5 months pregnant :-). Constructionwise – it does have a lot of curved seams but I didnt struggle with these. Everything lined up beautifully.

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Lekala 4437

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I like the collar but it needs more work

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Curved seams

I am keen to try this pattern again with more time to work on making the collar better and I want to make it in a woven fabric. The collar is the feature I liked the most about this dress. Its a dress that looks good on me but I know it could be much better sewn. The instructions were really quite good on this pattern as well.

Needless to say Mr SNS really likes this dress as well which is always a bonus :-)!

Thank you so much for stopping by my little corner of the interwebs. I appreciate you. Until next time – Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

BurdaStyle Magazine:Turtleneck 09/2010 #121A

Hello everyone,

Today’s post is a super quick one to share a very simple top. I made this from an old Burda magazine that I bought on Ebay last year. Here is a picture of it

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Burda 09/2010 #121A

It so happened that I was looking for a simple roll neck pattern and before I went buying or drafting a new one – I decided to browse my growing Burda Magazine collection. So glad I did that because I had never registered this pattern before. I quite like that it doesnt have a neck seam – makes for faster sewing.

I had 1m of John Kaldor Isabelle wool jersey that I bought in June. I just managed to fit this pattern and I was left with very satisfying slivers of fabric that indicate a most efficient use of the yardage! blog-pictures-coco-etc-276blog-pictures-coco-etc-277

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Back view
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Seamless neckline
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love this roll neck
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The sleeves are extra long
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I love this fabric so much – I bought 2 more meter in this colour for a dress.

I love this fabric and I have bought 2 more meters of this colour to make a dress.

Construction wise it comes together very quickly. I did not make any alterations to the pattern. I didn’t finish the roll neck edge as my fabric doesn’t unravel. I set in the sleeves and though it wasn’t the best job – it doesn’t look too bad. I finished the hems with a narrow zigzag. The sleeves are meant to be longer so that they have a ruched effect – love that.

I want to make another in black and gunmetal grey. Its a great foundation piece for my wardrobe.

So this makes my 12th Burda make this year and my goal has been reached. Here’s to more Burda makes from me in 2017!

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Marfy 3879

I made a Marfy pattern! Its a big deal for me because I have idolised Marfy patterns and Vogue Paris Original vintage patterns for a long time. I am yet to find a VPO pattern I can afford so I bought a Marfy pattern in lieu. Marfy are a small Italian pattern making company that releases a whole year’s collection of patterns around January. They have very unique and interesting designs but they come with no instructions or line drawings. After buying 3879 earlier this year I procrastinated as I honestly didn’t think I had the skill set to make it. I sat on it but I got tired of  my pity party so I reminded myself it wasnt heart surgery and got on with it!

Some background…..I ordered the pattern via email but it can be done over the phone as well. At the time that I ordered this particular pattern wasnt yet on the website. The website has a small selection of patterns to buy online but the catalog has over 200 designs in it. If the pattern you want is not on the site, it can be ordered via telephone or email. My orders from Marfy have both times arrived within 1 week of placing the order.

I made 2 for the Pattern Review One Pattern Many Looks competition. My review is below after the pictures.

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Pattern Description:
Trendy dress with curved-seam bodice emphasized by animal print on plain fabric.

Pattern Sizing:
Marfy size 42, 44, 46. I used size 42.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
This was my first time using a Marfy pattern. I ordered the paper pattern which is made out of a durable type of paper (onionskin I think).
Marfy patterns do not come with instructions. They hand clip each piece, in a single size. They don’t include seam and hem allowances. They do come with all the notches and letters to put the pieces together. You find the picture of patterns on the website or in the catalogue to use as reference for how it is supposed to look.

This is why I rate this for advanced. They are designed for the experienced person in mind. This was relatively simple to put together – the front has 3 pieces and I sewed up the semi-circle first then the longer curved seam with the corner. The corner was a bit tricky but taking my time really helped.

I had to watch out for how I cut out the pattern pieces because all the 3 front pieces had to be cut single layer. It was important to make sure that I was cutting with the pattern piece on the right side of the fabric – I messed up once and that was enough to make me more careful after that.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I loved the curved seams – they look so elegant and fluid giving the dress a lot of interest. I knew that colour blocking would look great with this design.

Fabric Used:
For both dresses I used ponte knit fabric. The ponte was thick enough to handle the curved seams without a lot of puckering.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The grey/snakeskin dress has no pattern alterations done to it. I had to take in at the waist for better shaping. The pattern comes with facing pieces for the neck and armhole. I didn’t like how they made the armhole chunkier after sewing one side so I left them off and finished with a twin needle instead.

The navy/pink was the second make and it has a couple of alterations to it :

  • I added sleeves to it. Marfy 3879 is a sleeveless pattern and as such I had to use my sleeve sloper which fit without fuss.
  • I lowered the neckline by 1/2″ and widened by 3/8″.
  • I also took it in slightly at the waist for better shaping.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes I would sew it again. It’s such a well drafted pattern that I am convinced Marfy patterns are worth it. The only caveat is that they are meant for advanced sewers hence the no instructions or line drawings.

I see more versions of this dress(tops and tunics too) in my future – I didn’t have time to make third in different tones of the same colour with some gold piping on the curved seams. It’s quite a versatile pattern that actually sewed up quickly.

Conclusion:
I really quite love how these 2 dresses turned out. I am pleased with the fit and the look. Taking my time to sew the curved seam really paid off and I find myself staring down my dress mesmerized by the seams. Plus being ponte, they are very comfortable to wear. I also like the detail I put into the navy/pink one with the hem and neckline by using navy thread on the navy bits and pink thread on the pink bits. Makes me feel like a grown up seamstress

Thanks for reading and I hope you found this useful.

Hila.

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The fit was spot on for me and I know I will be buying more patterns now that I have tried them out. These here are some patterns from the current catalog that I am drawn to – the darts are eyecatching dont you think? Have you tried out Marfy patterns?

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BurdaStyle Magazine 12/2014 #114B Seamed Jersey Turtleneck Top

Hello everyone,

Here is another Burda make as I race towards the end of the year in which I must make at least 12 Burda garments. I do really like BurdaStyle Magazine and I am keen to get a 12 month subscription.

This is from the 12/2014 issue and it was the featured sewing course pattern which is great because its the only one that Burda will hold your hand and walk you through the entire process (very nice of them). Here is the line drawing.

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BurdaStyle 12/2014 #114B

I cut my usual size 38 and it fits perfectly (a good reason why I am keen of getting my subscription on for 2017). I made 3 changes:

  1. The sleeve head. It was HUGE – I mean incredibly poofy and combined with my broad shoulder I looked somewhat ….odd. I reduced it by a good 2″ to get to this ‘poof’ which IMO is a good balance. The rest of the sleeve did not disappoint – am quite enamoured with the bishop style sleeve and exaggerated cuff.
  2. I cut the back on a fold instead of having a centre back seam.
  3. I omitted the zip – my ponte has enough stretch to go over my head without a zip plus I wasn’t keen on the idea of a zip against the back of my neck – its a very sensitive area for me and one of the reasons why my hair is almost always tied.

Fabric wise I used a ponte knit that was left over from a Marfy dress I made (post coming soon). I am glad I had enough of this left over as I love this colour! Its a medium weight ponte. The instructions call for stabilising the princess seams but I didn’t do that since my fabric was sturdy enough. I have worn this at least 3 times already and its holding up just fine. I did stabilise the shoulder seams though ( a standard procedure for me with all my knit projects).

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Burdastyle 12/2014 #114B Top
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Back view

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Overall its a good pattern and I like that its easily adaptable into a sheath dress or add a peplum and it becomes a cute flirty dress. Go sleeveless, remove the polo neck and it will work in summer. Yes – there will definitely be more of this pattern in the future.

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Burda 05/2016 Bat Sleeve Dress #115B

Hello everyone,

Despite the cold weather in October I made a dress from the May edition of BurdaStyle Magazine. The style is called a bat sleeve dress. It may not be everyone’s cup of tea but I was intrigued by this pattern enough to make it top of my trace and make list. The pictures didn’t really do anything for me but it was the line drawing that grabbed me:

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BurdaStyle 05/2016 #115B

 

It almost looks like a cape doesn’t it? Anyway I had bought this winter storms ponte from B&M Fabrics which I thought could work well as a autumnal dress that could be layered. It’s that time of the year where I start to think a lot about layering things so this seemed like a good candidate. I pictured it with different colour roll neck jumpers underneath.

The instructions were quite good – though this is very simply constructed dress made up of 2 pieces (front and back) and a neckband. You just have to finish the arm flaps before draping them over each other and securing with the neck-band.

Which leads to the only fly in the ointment with the otherwise easy & quick dress to make – the neckband is too big. I used the Burda dimensions and it sort of stands away from the body. I tried hand sewing it down but I needed a do over which I wasnt willing to spend time on.

This tiny issue aside – it’s a good neutral addition to my wardrobe. I wasnt too sure about the fabric when I bought it – but I got it because of my tendency to get bright and bold colours – its confusing but I am trying to diversify IYSWIM. Anyhow I digress…pictures…..

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Burda 05/2016 #115b
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Back View

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Quite like that cape-y look on the shoulder

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Erm………I know……Fine! I will fix it!

Worn with a Sewaholic Renfrew top

Will I make it again? – Undecided. Its warm when I layer it and its very comfortable – a good candidate for a Christmas day dress perhaps? I cant help but feel that maybe with a lighter weight jersey this could be truly lovely….. We will have to see.

So this is number 9 of my Burda Challenge. I have to make 12 Burda things by the end of the year to justify a subscription in 2017. So here’s hoping I can get 3 more done by then :-).

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Burda Downloadable Lydia T shirt pattern review

I made this Lydia T-shirt – it was one of the first downloadable products I ever bought. Its only 79p so it’s a good deal. I cut the size 38 which is my Burda size.

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Burda Lydia #3197 T-shirt

It’s a basic, long-sleeve t-shirt. The main difference with most other t-shirts I am familiar with is the neckline construction. This one has facings – though this picture above doesn’t show the facing version – the instructions are just like for a facing you would find on a woven top. The sleeve is supposed to be set in but I prefer flat construction with jersey fabrics.

I made this out of pure curiosity to see how the neck would turn out. I used knit fusible interfacing for the facing pieces. After sewing them to the neckline I understitched.  I gotta say I am quite impressed so far. The neck line is very neat and I love that it looks good enough to wear with a smart skirt and pass for smart workwear. I will have to see how it performs after a few washes before trying out this technique again though. Have you tried finishing the neckline on a knit top with a facing?

Fabric wise- I used a John Kaldor cotton jersey that I bought from Fletcher’s Fabrics in Leeds Market. Its left over from a Moneta dress I made around the same time. It was an utter delight to work with this fabric; as is wearing it. The comfort level on this top is very high. All the hems were done with a twin needle. Shoulders were stabilised with fusible bias tape which I also used around the neckline so it wouldn’t stretch out.

Pictures…

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Burda Lydia T Shirt
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Burda Lydia T Shirt – back

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Verdict: A solid t-shirt pattern that gains extra points for having a great price point.

Thanks for stopping by. Until next time happy sewing !

Peace and love,

Hila

BurdaStyle Boho Blouse 04/2016 #107

Hello,

This top is the very last of my summer sewing. I had forgotten about it because I finished it some time in September when it was getting cool such that I didn’t even think to wear it. Its from the May 2016 issue – an excellent issue that has a lot of styles I am smitten with.

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Boho Blouse – I liked the collar and placket detail on this top

I sewed it using a lightweight cotton from B and M fabrics in Leeds market. I really liked the circular tile effect plus the blue overtones. For the contrasting placket and sleeve bands I used some leftover fabric from the most recent McCalls M6044. I thought the colours worked well together.

I cut a size 38 which is my Burda size and is always quite spot on. It sewed up very quickly – though I used french seams for a neat inside. The cotton has a slightly stiff handle to it which I hope will soften over time.

This took me longer to finish because after I put the bodice together I wasn’t sure whether the style would be something I’d like. But now that I finished it and tried it on I was quite pleasantly surprised that I like it, especially the sleeves. Perhaps it is the colour that blinds me but I am looking forward to spring 2017 when I can start wearing it in earnest. In future I will make it using something like a Tana lawn and make it tunic length.

I have styled it with my Birkins – they seem to go with everything! Pictures….

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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Collar back view
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French seams
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Sleeve band details

 

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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107

Now, I will stride forward towards autumn.

Thanks for stopping by and have a great weekend. I’ll be back on Sunday 🙂

Peace and love,

Hila

10 Fashionable Ways to style a Sewaholic Granville Shirt #OWOP16

Hello everyone,

I decided to join the One Week One Pattern (OWOP) challenge when CinderEllis announced it on her blog. The premise of OWOP  is that you select one pattern that you have made and you pledge to include that garment in your daily outfit for the week. It tends to be a lot easier if you select a pattern you have made more than once.

It didn’t sound like a great premise to me at first because well, why would I want to wear the same thing for 7 days when I have so many handmade things in my closet? Well, the beauty of this challenge, as I discovered, is that it really pushes you (at least it did for me) to find ways of overcoming wardrobe ennui. When wardrobe ennui starts to set in, the best way to beat it is with clever styling tricks. So I’d say that OWOP is more of a styling challenge rather than a wardrobe wearout challenge which inevitably happens with something like MeMadeMay.

I selected my beloved Granville shirt because for me the Granville is a fun style staple. Of course, I was also swayed by the fact that I have made 5 of them :-). Click here for all my Granville shirts makes.

Can I just say that I thoroughly enjoyed the challenge of having to style them everyday for a week. So much that by the time the 7 days were up, I still had an appetite for more. Big thanks to Hannah for taking the time to host this challenge. I was so inspired by the many people who participated and again my fabric and pattern wish list has grown!

So here are my ways of wearing the Granville shirt. Enjoy 🙂 Picture quality is not the best – some days there was better light than others.

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Keeping with light hues for a relaxed smart casual look.
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Sleek silhouette with a pencil skirt.
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Paired with a voluminous skirt. Need I say more?
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Paired with Butterick B5895 and a skinny bright belt for a pop of colour.
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My sleeveless chambray Granville with a vintage 80s skirt creates a simple look with light hues.  I chose the wider belt to match the shoes.
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Simply pairing with jeans and a slim belt works a treat.
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Tis the season for layers. The sleeveless Granville is ideal to fit under a blazer.
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Double Sewaholic pairing – my denim Hollyburn goes perfectly with the chambray Granville (quite possibly my favourite because of the blue on blue action 🙂
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Another double Sewaholic day here, decidedly autumnal. I got a lot of compliments when I was wearing this outfit
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 Another favourite combo. Can you guess why? 🙂 Skinny silver belt and silver brogues complete the look.

I reckon I did OK with my sartorial choices but next time I would like to be bolder in my styling :-). I learnt that button-down shirts like the Granville can be dressed up or down and can be styled in countless creative ways.

Are you the proud owner of a Sewaholic Granville (or any) button-down shirt? How do you prefer to style yours? I’d love to hear!

Thanks for stopping by.

Mwah!

hila