Cowl Neck Top 01/2017 #119 #burdachallenge2018

This was another unplanned make for my #burdachallenge2018. The idea for this developed after meeting the fabric. SO I will start with the fabric. This is a beautiful shiny viscose jersey with the most beautiful drape – it is like a liquid gemstone. I picked it up from Fletchers Fabrics in Leeds while shopping with my friend Eleanor. I bought 1.5m without any idea of what to make with it. It was only when I was shooting my Youtube fabric haul video that I realised what this fabric could become.

The pattern is from the Jan 2017 issue of BurdaStyle. Here is the line drawing:

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119

And here is the style picture 

The recommended fabric is silk jersey in order to achieve the exaggerated cowl neck. The instructions were easy to follow. The neck is finished in an ingenious way IMO. I handstitched the shoulder yoke facing as I didn’t want to topstitch. The sleeves are set in which is a little tedious to do on jersey fabrics but worth it in the end.

It came together quickly. The little bralet is a gem of a pattern as well. I used rainbow foldover elastic because I like it. The pattern calls for cutting out strips of fashion fabric otherwise. Technically this is the first bra I have sewn :-). I am looking forward to whipping up more of the bralets using scrap fabrics.

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top – The bralet on its own is a great pattern with a good fit.

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top Rainbow foldover elastic
Interior view of the back.
Handstitched inner shoulder yoke facings.
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top

I cut my usual Burda 38 but I felt like I could have gone down a size on this which is unusual.

Verdict – a great stylish pattern with the deep cowl. I think I could have done a better job with styling it though. I feel this was designed to be tucked in but in my pictures, I didn’t do that. It does make a difference to how the top looks. Its a lovely top though I doubt I shall be making another one any time soon – I might try it again in size 36.

Thanks for stopping by!

 

 

 

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

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One Shoulder Dress with Cutout 07/2017 #111 #burdachallenge2018

 

Up next is a dress that has been “marinating” for a while. I traced this out when the magazine came out as soon as I saw it because I was smitten with the one shoulder style and the peekaboo circle at the shoulder.

On a tangent – my shoulders are my absolute favourite part of my body. Yes they have a forward roll and they are just a bit broader than what is considered normal for a feminine look but I love them. And so the point is that any pattern that shines a light on the shoulder is almost always something I’ll love 🙂

Back to the pattern – the one shoulder dress is one of those rare instances where it was the styled model picture that caught my eye rather than the line drawing. In fact the line drawing is really rather unattractive :

BurdaStyle 07/2017 #101 One shoulder dress
Burdastyle 07/2017 #111 Dress – This is what caught my eye.

BurdaStyle 07/2017 #111

The front and back pattern pieces are more or less similar – given the size of the pieces and how much greaseproof paper they took up – I might have tried to use only one traced pattern piece of each. But its an experiance thing really. In future, if pattern pieces look similar to me I will check if they are the same and not bother with tracing another one. This has happened to me more times than I care to count.

Any how – this is a relatively simple pattern to sew up. The bit that goes across the chest is hemmed and the circular detail is finished with a casing. The sleeve seam is sewn right up to the point where it joins the casing before its artfully tucked into the casing. A tie band is then threaded through to make that oh so cut bow on the shoulder.

I was very happy with the ease of the instructions and I sewed it up in less than a couple of hours.

The fabric was bought from Fletchers Fabrics in Leeds Market last year. Its a John Kaldor jersey with vibrant red and blue flowers. I have washed it and its maintained its vibrancy.

The thing is I actually cut this out a few months ago before I did a major reorganisation of my sewing cave so I overenthusiastically got rid of a lot of scraps including the scraps of this John Kaldor. When I read the instructions on the sewing pattern pieces I missed the measured out bits that Burda sometimes has you mark straight onto to the fabric. The essence of the story is that though it may look like a design feature to have used some Art Gallery Fabric for the casing – it was actually because I had no access AT ALL to this exact John Kaldor fabric 🙂 . Still, I think it worked out well and looks good.

BurdaStyle 07/2017 #111 One shoulder dress

BurdaStyle 07/2017 #111 Dress – Art Gallery Jersey for the casing.

BurdaStyle 07/2017 #111

Wearing this dress is an interesting experience. It definitely exposes a lot of skin and perhaps it felt strange at first since I was just coming out of winter wherein covering up is de riguer. Apart from the novelty of feeling the breeze against my skin – I liked wearing this dress. The one flutter sleeve is very dramatic while the fact that it is made of jersey makes it very comfortable.

Foundation garment wise – I found that I couldn’t carry it off without a bra (I’d need to make a smaller size for that – my bust measurement is based on wearing a t shirt bra, without it I am quite flat chested). I have a strapless bra which worked just fine. I also realised that this could work well as a beach coverup, it goes on and off very easily.

Here is how I wear it – with a belt just like in the magazine style picture-

There is a top version of the pattern which I will try next in a smaller size so I can go braless with it.

 

 

Thanks so much for stopping by! Until next time, Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

This was an unplanned make for my  April #burdachallenge2018.

 

3 X BurdaStyle Magazine 09/2010 #121A #burdachallenge2018

Ever since I sewed up the turtleneck top from Burdastyle 09/2010 in 2016, I have been planning more variations in my head. You see, this top pattern is so easy to sew up and comfy to wear as it doesnt have a neck seam. Here is the line drawing:

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Burda 09/2010 #121A

 

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Seamless neckline from my first 2016 version

 

To be honest with you I could waffle on but there really isn’t much more to add about this pattern that I haven’t already said here. So here are pictures of the three latest ones which also fulfilled my March #burdachallenge2018 goals.

BurdaStyle 09/2010 #121 – This is a crepe jersey that I picked up from a fabric swap at SewUpNorth
BurdaStyle 09/201 #121 – Fabric is a viscose jersey from Fabworks Mill Shop
BurdaStyle 09/2010 #121 – Quite possibly my favourite made of a viscose jersey that I bought from B&M Fabrics in Leeds Market.

So these have been in heavy rotation especially for layering in the colder months. Its been getting a bit warmer so for now they have been put aside until September. Isn’t it lovely to find a TNT pattern? I now have 5 of these 🙂

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Tight Midi Dress BurdaStyle 01/2018 #118 #burdachallenge2018

Here is another dress that I like to call my “Go Bold or Go Home” dress. Its bright neon orange colour – the sort of orange that doesn’t blend into the background. Its a crepe jersey that I picked up at The Shuttle in Shipley for my SWAP2017 capsule. I found a better alternative for my SWAP and this had been chilling in my collection since.

When the Jan 2018 Burda dropped – I immediately knew that the orange crepe jersey would be perfect for the midi dress. Here is the style picture that hooked me:

Tight Midi Dress Burdastyle 01/2018 #118

 

I got excited that I didn’t fully check the recommended fabric part. This pattern actually calls for viscose crepe with elastine. My crepe jersey has fourway stretch and though more substantial than t-shirt jersey, it does have a lot of stretch. SO much so that I didnt include the CB zip.

I really struggled with sewing this dress. My initial ardour was dampened by an inability to comprehend the instructions. AT one point I put it aside and moved on but when I saw @AllisonCSewing’s version on Instagram, my ardour was renewed.

I tackled it with a single minded focus. Though I still did not get the instructions I just pinned it out. Using the magazine pictures I tried to pin it to best achieve what my eyes were seeing. This is what came out of it. The inside is a hot mess and its supposed to have a lined bodice but mine doesnt.

BurdaStyle 01/2018 #118

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Internal Back
Hot mess.
It was hard to capture the vividness of the orange because of all the extra light from the snow but this picture is the closest.

 

 

I really like this dress and I wore it layered with a roll neck top. I will be trying this again with a viscose crepe. Ideally I’d like to have a patterned fabric for the skirt and a solid for the bodice so it looks like a 2 piece. And I hope that the second time around the instructions will make sense to me!

Thanks so much for stopping by! Until next time, Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

This was a planned make for my January #burdachallenge2018.

 

Flounce Dress BurdaStyle 01/2017 #112A

 

I will preface this by saying how much I love this dress! So I will go right ahead and show the pictures before all the talking.

Burdastyle 01/2017 #112

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #112

 

Now, the talking bit.

The flounce dress includes a bold flounce to drape in front – which piqued my interest. Initially, I was going to use a cobalt blue crepe, however, at the last minute, I remembered this bright pink wool fabric that I had bought from Fabworks. It is a lightweight wool fabric, similar in texture to pashmina shawls. I found it washed well in a cold water wash and low tumble dry.

Sewing it up was a treat. The fabric is a joy to work with and responds beautifully to a steamy iron. Since the style doesn’t have a zipper – it sews up quite fast. The only tricky bit is when cutting out the pattern. The pieces have to be cut single layer and it is important to mark the seam numbers.

The pattern is a Burda Tall size which is drafted for taller persons. I selected my size based on my bust measurement which put me on size 76. I didn’t change the length of the dress but I did reduce the sleeve length by 2″ to maintain the bracelet length sleeve.

My favourite part of this dress is the flounces at the front. My least favourite is the back fastening. I am considering redoing that back closure and inserting an exposed zip instead. I wore it quite a lot these past 2 months but the back wasn’t an issue since I always wore it layered over a roll neck top. The other annoying thing is that the wool has started pilling where my coat would rub against it :-(.

I definitely want to make this again and do some contrast blocking with the flounces.

This was one of my January #burdachallenge2018 planned makes.

Thanks for stopping by!

Hila

Burda 06/2016 #101C Wool Jersey Dress

This is a dress I made for my February #burdachallenge2018 project. It wasnt a planned make – I reacquainted myself with the dark blue wool jersey that I bought from Fabworks in Dec 2016.

When I bought the fabric I recall that I wanted to make a Talviki sweater. Alas, with only 1 meter, it was not enough. Enter Burda 06/2016 #101C dress. Here is the line drawing which shows the simplicity of this pattern.

101-062016-m_large

 

Since 1m was not enough for the mini dress – a fact I realised after cutting out three of the four pieces; inventiveness meant that I used a navy ponte for the front yoke – a design feature bourne out of necessity.

For the neckline, I just folded it under and zig zagged. I think this is a finish you can get away with when the fabric is of a more substantive weight like the wool jersey.

The picture shows how I wore it most of the time- with tights and boots and sometimes with a roll neck as well. Wool jersey is very warm and cosy which served me well for the colder days. The pictures were taken during the big snow days that ground Britain to a halt.

Burdastyle 06/2016 #101

 

This is quite a versatile pattern – it works for summer with a lighter fabric like this one that I made here and can work for winter with a thicker fabric.

Thanks for stopping by!

Hila

Offset Jersey Tops BurdaStyle 02/2018 #107 #burdachallenge2018

When I received the February issue of BurdaStyle this pattern immediately jumped out at me. I could see this working well for a beautiful multi colour fabric that I had bought with no particular pattern in mind. Here is the line drawing

BurdaStyle 02/2018 #107

The line drawing doesnt the top much justice so here is the fashion photo

The front and back pattern pieces are nearly identical but you have to absolutely make sure to note the seam numbers on the fabric for when you have to put it together. Otherwise, like me, you might get into a bit of a muddle. But once you have everything properly marked (and traced – when I traced out the pattern pieces I forgot to put on the seam numbers so when the instructions said to sew seam No.1 – I had no idea where it was) its actually a very easy garment to sew up.

I made 2 of these tops. The first one was not as successful because of incorrect fabric selection. I used a medium weight 2 way knit fabric. I felt that it was didnt have enough drape for the pattern and given that the hip is snug on this pattern it wasnt what I envisioned. 

The hips are snug on this, which would have been fine in my much younger days 🙂

It better when I move the hem up to my natural waist.
Its a shame because I really liked the fabric but this was totally wrong pattern for it.

 

Not to be deterred I immediately dug into my fabrics and found a grey 4 way stretch viscose jersey that I thought might work better. Having learnt my lessons before – it took less than an hour to cut and finish this top.

BurdaStyle 02/2018 #107

As you can see this fabric was more suitable for the pattern. I love this top and I have worn it so many times already. By the time we did this photoshoot (indoors because it was the big snow week) it has been washed about 4 times already. Here I am wearing it with my DP Studio Skirt

This is a pattern that I will definitely be coming back to. I need it many different colours. It makes a nice alternative to a normal T Shirt. This was one of my February #burdachallenge2018 makes.

Thanks for stopping by and until next time – Happy Sewing.

Hila

XoX

My #makenine2018

Late to the #makenine2018 party but here we go. After much thought and consideration, I decided that I wanted my make nine to help me with a challenge I had set myself last year – get out of my stash. I only managed to use up 2 pieces of precious fabric last year and it felt so good. So my #makenine is to use these 9 fabrics. Bring on the tears people! I have to cut into my preciousnessess

  1. Lemons. 100% Cotton. 2m

2. Hydrangea. Satin. 2m

3. Liberty Tana Lawn 1.5m

4. OutBack Wife Barkcloth 1m

5. Vivienne Westwood. 100% Wool. 3m

6. Cotton and Steel. 100% cotton. 2m

7. Liberty Tana Lawn. 2m

8. Ralph Lauren  Sailboats. 100% Linen. 2m

9. Liberty Wool. 100% wool. 2m

Wish me luck! The process of selecting the 9 was fun. But it also made me realise that there is too much lovely fabric sitting there! If you’d like to see the drape and handle of the fabrics the YT video is below.

Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, Happy sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

Better Late than Never Blazer : BurdaStyle Blazer 03/2016 116A #burdachallenge2018

This jacket has been waiting a long time to be made. I bought and cut this fabric over a year ago, changed my mind about the style and left it in my UFO box, forgotten. Until I was browsing all my March issues while planning my #burdachallenge2018 makes for this month.

Reaching for my UFO box is never a nice experience. I like to pretend it doesn’t exist. You understand don’t you, gentle reader, that being confronted by your own personality defects must be avoided? Especially if said defects might justify a fabric fast?

But I reached for it, if only to refresh my memory of the project.

On a tangent, diving into the UFO was just as unpleasant as I thought it would be – too many carrier bags of projects in there. They were very angry. They hadn’t seen the light of day for a long time. I did not like facing them. I decided that I was going to have a sort through later on and chuck most of them (after all if I havent sewn them by now then I dont need to).

Back to the story at hand – once I saw the fabric I decided to have a go at sewing the jacket – It looked like an easy enough pattern. The jacket is unlined. Here is the line drawing: 

 

 

BurdaStyle 03/2016 116

I cant recall much about the fabric except that I bought it from B&M Fabrics. It has some lycra in it I think based on the cross grain stretch.

The fabric was quite nice to work with – it has that beautiful quality of letting stitches sink in and become invisible so you can unpick and mess up royally with little visible impact :-).

The jacket came together quickly. I made my usual size 38 without any alterations. The only change was to leave my sleeve band unfolded. In the instructions, the sleeve band is folded in half and sewn on to sleeve giving it a three-quarter length. My sleeve band had been cut on the selvedge so I thought it would be nice to incorporate the selvedges thereby also making the sleeve longer.

Verdict: Quite simply – I LOVE IT! Love it! Nuff said.

BurdaStyle 03/2016 #116

 

So coming back to my UFO box – I get why they are angry with me. All they want is to show me how beautiful and useful they can be. They just want to be given a chance.

Because somewhere, at some point a tiny spark of an idea had emerged and I started pulling it together.

The idea was excited about coming to fruition but then I dropped it like a hot potato.

Of Course, they are angry. And I am shamed.

Shamed into action.

I nearly threw out this project because of unpleasant feelings of shame. Well if there is one thing this beautiful spring jacket has taught me – its that it is never too late!

So do not worry my lovely UFOs – you will not be left behind. I am coming to get all of you and give you your chance! 

Thanks for stopping by my little corner of the internets. Until next time, Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

Burda 05/2016 Bat Sleeve Dress #115B

This is another dress I made specially for a holiday to the seaside. Its from the May 2016 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. The style is called a bat sleeve dress. It may not be everyone’s cup of tea but I was intrigued by this pattern enough to make it.The pictures didn’t really do anything for me but it was the line drawing that grabbed me:

115-052016-m_large
BurdaStyle 05/2016 #115B

 

I have made it in ponte before here.The instructions were quite good – though this is very simply constructed dress made up of 2 pieces (front and back) and a neckband. You just have to finish the arm flaps before draping them over each other and securing with the neck-band.

I used a viscose jersey – very drapey and perfect for my purposes. I wanted something akin to a beach cover-up. Easy to to pop on and off. It did the job admirably! Here it is in action.

I definitely see more capelet dresses in the future. Its so quick and fast to sew up too.

Thanks for stopping by and until next time-

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Another Giselle Maxi Dress for Indie Pattern Month 2017

July is Indie Pattern Month over at The Monthly Stitch. Its a month set aside for celebrating indie patterns. I always the challenges set by Kat and Mel and this year is no exception. Week 1 is dresses and I made yet another Giselle maxi dress using fabric bought from my first Yorkshire Spoolette meet up in Feb 2016 <link here>. Tangentially, I have used all but 1 of the fabrics I bought then and that’s great for me :-). I digress, lets get to it ……..

Can I just start off by saying that I love this dress! OK. So when Kat and Mel announced the themes I was pleased to see that dresses were in Week 1. It didn’t take me long at all to decide on which indie pattern dress to make – Giselle by Kate and Rose Patterns.

I have made 3 of them ( here and here) before but none in a rayon challis fabric. The fabric is irresistibly soft and I  very nearly made pyjamas with it. It also gets double points for stash busting as it has been in the stash since Feb 2016 :-).

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Since I have sewn this before fitting was not an issue. I made the version with the under bust yoke but sleeveless. The sleeves and neckline were finished with cotton bias binding.

This is a quick dress to sew up. The skirt panels are basically rectangles that are gathered and sewn together. I always add in seam pockets to this pattern as it comes without pockets and that’s my only complaint (a very minor one 🙂). I finished my seams with the overlocker.

Its a loose fit easy to wear dress. Very swishy and its one of those dresses that always has me on my best posture. You know the sort of dress you feel like you are letting it down if you slouch or don’t stand proud :-).

Thanks for stopping by!

Peace and love,

Hila

Burda 06/2016 #101C Maxified Dress

I made this dress using a birdy fabric that I had bought some time ago but was quite precious about it. The challenge was just perfect – it made me brave enough to cut into the birds :-). I had bought the viscose jersey from B&M Fabrics in Leeds.

I wanted a simple pattern with few seam lines to maximise the impact of the birds. Enter Burda 06/2016 #101C dress. Here is the line drawing which shows the simplicity of this pattern.

101-062016-m_large

The dress is meant to be a mini but I maxified it for full impact 🙂 Sewing it up was so fast and took less than an hour to sew up. I opted to sew a neckband for a t-shirt look.

The dress is so comfortable and I love it.

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Burda 06/2016 101C
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Burda 06/2016 101C

I can’t help but feel like lifting off and flying when wearing this dress. Thanks for this challenge Kat and Mel! Now, I need to go finish my Apron challenge make :-).

Thanks for stopping by!

Hila