Random sewing related thoughts

 

Hello everyone,

How come they dont prewash their fabric? They seem to be using it of the bolt?” You see even my hubs has learnt, through living with a sewing mad wife that rule number 1 of sewing is you prewash your fabric. So why oh why do they misrepresent sewing like that in the show!!!! I generally watch it as a reality TV show because well the contestants aren’t the best amateur sewers as professed – because why would you pit a newbie sewer who has never made a jacket (or even sewed a bias bound neckline) with a vetaran who has been sewing for 30 plus years? No to me its like a Big Brother of sewing. The other day (60’s week I think – they made the one thing I am buying that book for _ the Mondrian dress that I have coveted since seeing it first on FabriKated’s blog. But what on earth was the new judge wearing? Purely from a curiosity perspective – as a seamster when I see clothes I automatically deconstruct them but I could not figure out what she was wearing. Still its fun to watch.sewing-bee-mondrian-dress-1024x517

 

I have been reading a few books.

41fjf6csd7l-_sx360_bo1204203200_Draping The Complete Course by Karolyn Kiisel which I also borrowed from the library. I absolutely love this book and it has been added to my xmas gift list (Mr SNS now knows what to get me ). It explains everything step by step and something I believed had to wait till I had time to go to a night class seems within reach. It has some fabulous looking projects to do and it includes an instructional DVD.

070608_lgCouture sewing techniques has just blown my mind and changed my finish level. Its leveled me up significantly. I honestly did not appreciate hand sewing before but seeing all the fine gowns that are all made by hand I was like wow! I have been applying some of the techniques n my recent makes and I am not disappointed. I wish I had come across this book sooner. As it is, I bought form the US where it was so much cheaper than buying here in UK.

41hk5qo2b8olI borrowed this book by Dennic Chunman on pattern drafting. Its interesting in that it has what I consider to be avant garde projects so very much a fashion design student book. It excelled at explaining some reasons behind why things are done a certain way. Also interesting was his point that pinning on a dress form does not give you a good indication of how a dress looks on a real person (there are example pictures in the book but I forgot to snap them on my phone). He advocates using a real model early on in the process (key back to GBSB and their refashion challenge where they have to pin on a dress form). Though an enjoyable read, I shant be buying a personal copy for my sewing library.

New sewing tools that have bee amazing…….

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I bought some beeswax on a whim during a late night phone browsing session as a result of reading the Claire Shaffer book. When I used it at first it was making the tangling worse and I abandoned it. But when I read further I learnt that you had to apply a bit of heat to it so I tried that the next time. Something strange happened and the thread went from being curly to bone straight and did not tangle at all. Its made sewing by hand a pleasure I had never experienced before.

I also picked up a loop turner and yes its worth the £1.81 and 2 weeks I waited for it to arrive from China!

I am also currently obsessed with trying to draft this lowered shoulder dress I saw in an optician waiting room magazine. Its a Peter Pilotto $1800,00 dress. With any luck I might finish drafting it in time for next summer :-).1048627_3

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Images from matchesfashion.com

Thanks for stopping by, do you have  a book recommendation or sewing tool? Please share I learn so much from your collective experiences.

As always thanks for stopping by. I’ll be back soon. Happy sewing!

Hila

XoX

 

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Nautical Outfit IPM Week 4 RTW COPY

*My entry for IPM*

Hello everyone,

My last ever entry into 2016 IPM! And what a month it has been. I have thoroughly enjoyed the challenges set this year. This one more so, because I got to really look through all those pins on my Pinterest boards and get to choose something I could make using my stash items.

This particular outfit came about because I love nautical stripes . Its really a combo of these 2 Pins……

pinterest collage
From TheStylishChic.com and  Nadiatarr via Pinterest

Dress

Continue reading

Hello AURORA! IPM Week 3- Hack IT

In which I hack my self titled Aurora dress

Hello everyone.

Happy Monday! And its a good one for me because I get to post about a dress I am super excited about sharing. Made for Indie Pattern Month Hack  -It, its a hybrid of the excellently drafted Moneta bodice with the striking drama and flare  of the Gabriola skirt.

Say WHAT!?! Yes I combined a Colette and a Sewaholic to make a super Indie pattern dress. Continue reading

IPM Week 2 One Pattern Two Ways; Carme blouse revisited

Hello chums,

If you follow The Monthly Stitch you will seen these already. You can scroll though to the bottom where I have added detail pictures :-).  I was late posting them here because there are other details I wanted to talk about here that I didn’t have time to on the other post because of the deadline. Yes I know I shouldn’t wait till the very last minute to finish and post. In my defense I did not realise that for the competition you could start on the items after the IPM announcement in May! All along I thought it was like Pattern Review where you have to cut, sew and write up in the time frame of the competition. Ack! At least now I will start on my final week garments this weekend.

Anyhow back to the Carmes at hand.

I love Pauline Alice’s  Carme blouse pattern. I have made it twice before already in a grey and white cotton here and linen Sashiko version here. Its a simple chic pattern with a loose fit pullover style. Its certainly one of the tops I first made to a reasonably decent standard by following the video sewalong which is great for beginners. Continue reading

IPM Week 1 New-To-Me: Birkin Flare Jeans

Hello chums,

I just managed to blog my entry for Indie Pattern Month Week 1. I was lucky with the weather this last weekend and had such a fun photo shoot. Here is the post:

 

I  MADE jeans!

I want to shout it from the rooftops!

I Hila of SaturdayNightStitch made jeans –

Like as in real actual life jeans!

And they may just be the best darn jeans in the whole wide world……

……..as far as I am concerned 🙂 Continue reading

Sewing happenings….

Hello chums,

Just a quick post to share what I am getting up to. Spring and Summer usually mean a burst of sewing events, challenges and competitions. And I do so love a challenge! I have picked up a few things to do in May and June.

First up is a Skirt Contest over at Pattern Review.  It runs from 15 May to 15 June. The rules are pretty simple: Continue reading

The Birds aka Another self drafted skirt….

Hi everyone!

Its nearly the end of August eek! Must get on with finishing my summer projects – my head cannot stay buried in the sand forever. I will have to say “Good bye summer I hardly got to know you this year“.

Anyhow, allow me to present another self drafted skirt. This one is a taffeta lined, high waist A line skirt with pockets. It’s nearly the same as this one I made in Feb however it has a waistband instead of a facing. Drafting it took about 45 mins because I faffed around with whether I was going to keep the front waist darts or not. This was important because of the pockets. The positioning of the pockets is in the dart area. In the end I just kept the darts because I wanted a fitted look. I lengthened the skirt by about 6 inches to hit my knees. The pockets were split into 2 pattern pieces – one of the pocket bag lining and one for the visible part of the skirt. I did this to reduce bulk as my fabric was a cotton canvas. A Cath Kidston cotton canvas…

Say WAHHHHHHH!!!! Yes I bought 1m of Cath Kidston ‘Birds’ fabric. For months I had been looking for something to make for the Monthly Stitch Put a bird on it Challenge (I had voted Foxes and have plenty of foxy fabric in the stash but no birds). Took a while of searching but I finally found this birds fabric as something I could get down with. Unsurprisingly I first saw it on InstaGram (Thanks IG…for a free app you are turning out to be quite expensive!)

The fabric came in this lovely spotty packaging (which I still have). It was so exciting! – the thrill of receiving a fabric package. Waiting till I had enough time to savour opening it (little people having naps ;-).  My next issue was the lining. I went shopping specifically for lining and found this red taffeta and I knew it was prefect.

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Happy mail day!
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Thought of making a sarong..lol
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Playing around with outfit ideas
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seriously just love this fabric.

All things assembled cutting was next. Took longer than normal because I had to get the optimal pattern placement. I did not want decapitated bird heads. So everything was cut single layers. Because cotton canvas frays it had to be overlocked straight away. I also overlocked all the lining pieces as well since I was at it.

Sewing it was quick work. I use an 80 sewing needle which made a nice difference to the stitch quality. For the waistband there were a few options for me and I tried the fold a band which was a first for me. It creates a crisp sharp waistband without a lot of work. I also did a button waistband for the first time and used a hook and bar.

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Reminds me of Cinderella the Disney original animated movie
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I think it called waistband tape..picked it up at car booty. Its make quick work of the waist band.
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Crisp fold.

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To maximise length I went for  a bias hem and it looks so neat on the insides. Its a very nice skirt – I feel very To the Manor Born in this. Love it very much, all that’s missing is a wide brim sunhat and Daiquiri with me swanning around saying “Dahlin…”.August blog photoshoot1 498Cath Kidston  birds fabric skirt
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Overall I am very pleased with this skirt …Despite the invisible zip not being quite invisible (DONE is better than PERFECT)– I enjoyed taking my time over the new techniques and getting a neat finish. Plus, the fabric is lovely, it has pockets and I think that the shape of this lends itself well to a few more skirts in different fabrics/colours that could become easy wardrobe staples.

In all honesty, I’m immensely proud of how far my sewing and dressmaking skills have come. To think just over a year ago I was tentatively dipping my toes into sewing, now I am designing, drafting and creating my own clothes!

Anyhow, you know the drill guys, til next time…
Hila

xox

Indie Pattern Month 2015 Musings

Hi all!

Indie Pattern Month 2015 has been and gone and my word I enjoyed every day of June for it! Everyday my blog feed with filled with wonderful treats and delights of unknown patterns and new takes on known patterns. Just like with Me Made May my sewing queue just grew and grew. I challenged myself to make something for each of the 4 weeks of June.

I am proud to say I achieved that goal. I was motivated by the fact that there were 7 prizes up for grabs each  week so it felt like I had a decent shot at winning something. A free pattern is something I will ALWAYS try to go for – its a win win situation really:

1. I get to use the fabric stash

2. There is a chance  of a free pattern

3. I make something new to wear 😉IPM

Anyhow I am happy to say I did make the finals 3 times and I won 2 times so yay! Continue reading

Stress free Giselle dresses: ONE Pattern TWO Takes

Hello everyone!

I am excited to share my last entry for IPM2015 over at The monthly stitch. I cant believe IPM is nearly over – its been a blast so far and I have added some really great pieces to my evergrowing handmade wardrobe. The Pattern I chose for 1 pattern 2 Takes is Kate and Rose’s Giselle dress.

Decided on this pattern as I have made a winter Giselle before here for Froctober. I love and wear this dress regularly. Making both dresses was stress free.PicMonkey Collage

Dress 1 is view A with the shaped midriff. I made it in linen. The linen was dyed Jeans blue using Dylon fabric dye. I am very pleased with the result. I knew I wanted to use the decorative stitches on my machine to create a feature of what was otherwise a plain dress. So using my colour wheel I narrowed down to three colours which I auditioned on scraps and decided on  mustard gold thread. Its spun polyester from my stash – nothing fancy. While trying out the stitches it it occured to me that the stitches would look good on the V neck as well. I played around with the settings and got a size of stars I liked. For the bias binding I made linen binding but I thought how cute would it be to have some contrast floral binding instead and whoop whoop! A lovely inside with floral contrasts.

As much as I love my winter Giselle I have always felt that it needed pockets so for this one  I drafted some pockets to go in the side seams. But to give them more support I drafted them so the top part of the pocket is also on the waist. I am hoping it will reduce gaping when pocket is in use. For the pockets, left over scraps from my Granville shirt were used – a fabric I love dearly. It cotton poplin so a good match for linen.

For the hem it had to be three lines of star stitching. They are not the same size each gets slightly smaller. Its a teeny tiny detail but I love it. Which leads me to my top tips for sewing a decorative hem (it was a steep learning curve for me).

1. Always start with a full bobbin. The last thing you want is to run out and have to loose your setting while you refill a bobbin.

2. At the end leave long thread tails so you can thread a needle and neatly move thread behind and then cut. Makes for a neat finish.

3. Steam, not press, but steam to set the stitches on both sides. Its a nice luxe finish. (less flat).

Not much else to say except that we were in Essex last weekend and took advantage to get some location shots 😉

Dress 2 is view B which is a sleeveless maxi dress with empire waist and tiered skirt. The fabric is a delicious scrummy cotton lawn! Hello new love of my sewing life! Cutting into lawn: orgasmic!. Sewing lawn: orgasmic! Its such a fantastic material to work with! I honestly dont know why its taken me so long to get round to this marvellous fabric! Speaking of which I picked this up at Leeds market. At £7/m it was a splurge for me but those colours! When I bought the fabric I had no idea what to do with it but when this challenge popped up the haze lifted! Only problem was I didnt have enough fabric. The skirt would be fuller but I made do with what I had. It still looks good.

I used black satin bias binding for armholes and neckline. For the contrast empire waist I wanted to add a bit of texture to it and used the decorative top stitcing. The only disappointment was the black contrast fabric which I purchased on Ebay sold as 100% cotton poplin. But I dont think its 100% cotton because when I used the cotton setting on my iron it burnt the fabric. I think its actually polycotton. Its stiff and unyielding compared to the lawn. Ah well you live and learn. Its still a fun dress. Lush to wear and so comfortable!

I love these dress and they are perfect for summery hot days. Now come on Summer I am ready and waiting for you! Pretty please come. We in the sewing community have made so many lovely things for you. Have you made something waiting for summer to come too?

Thanks ever so much for stopping by! Happy sewing everyone!

Hila

X0X

Lekala 4026 New to me…..#IPM2015 Week 3

Hello everyone!

Happy days! More Indie Pattern Month shenanigans to share. For Week 3 the challenge is to use a new to you indie pattern.

Whilst searching for a Jumping into June jumpsuit pattern, blog pal Ali of Thimberlina recommended Lekala.

I did not find the jumpsuit I wanted but I did come across dress 4026. The shift dress has princess line seams and some pocket detail that I thought was cute. 2 clicks of a mouse and I had a PDF sent to my email. Putting the paper together was easy. The patterns have minimal markings and I like that. I decided to use a lightweight crepe pinstripe fabric. To break up the stripe I played with bias cut on the side panels to create an interesting chevron. This crepe has quite a bit of stretch on the bias.

I’m quite impressed the instructions. They were clear, logical and easy to follow. Certainly better than Burda downloads!

While cutting the side panels I did forget that there were no seam allowances however I was lucky because of the stretch the fabric has on the bias. It took 2 wrong cuts to get the correct grainline on the bias. I wanted the chevron to point up and not down. Got there in the end :-).

I finished all my seams in red.  Red contrasts nicely with the pin stripe. For armholes a simple baby hem by serging edge then topstitcing. I did not want it bulky so double fold was out of question. The neck finish is quite possibly my favourite! Made some bias binding (from the side panels that were cut in wrong bias direction) and used it to finish. Seams were also topstitched. I left out the epaulets and buttons as I wanted this to be something I can wear for work especially for meetings.

I am very pleased with this dress. I have worn it twice already to work with my Morris blazer! I felt pretty good.. Its very comfortable and it can be worn with a belt. I do like it with my red wide belt.

Lekala patterns are new to me. I confess I had not thought to try them because I was skeptical about the price.  Digital custom fitted sewing patterns for less than £2? I thought they were too good to be true. However the fit on this dress is great. I did not make a muslin so there were no adjustments. I am extremely pleased with this dress and I will be making another in linen with the buttons and epaulets yeah! In fact I have also been browsing their extensive range of patterns and even bought another one 😉

Enough text now for piccies!

Thanks to Monthly stitch guys for hosting #IndiePatternMonth. I am having such a blast with these challenges!

Thanks for stopping by!
Happy sewing.
Hila
Xox