I sewed up another Burda 6849 in a cotton fine needlecord fabric. This fabric has been a long term stasher so I was glad to finally get it out!
I have made it in cotton lawn before here….
I didnt need the instructions this time around as I am quite familiar with shirt construction. Note that this pattern does not have a tower placket so I used the one from the Angela Kane tutorial. I decided to experiment by adding a velvet ribbon to the undercollar – something I see on OH’s shirts.
I actually overlockeed all the seams. I just did not feel like doing flat felled seams. It was lazy. I did wonder if I’d regret it later and frankly speaking I don’t :-).
Working with cord fabric was a revelation. Never has my lint roller been more vital! I had to use it all the time – everything sticks to cord in a most annoying way in the sewing room, thread ends, lint, fluff – you name it and it sticks. My advice is to get loads of the lint roller if you embark on sewing with cord. DOnt even get me started on the amount of cord dust you get when overlocking the stuff!!
And yet I still will sew with cord again. It’s deliciously soft and warm. Cozy and durable 🙂
Here I am on a family night bowling during the Christmas holiday.
I really ought to make this in a solid colour to really appreciate the wonderful design lines….a chambray blue or a batiste white fabric…..
I am back after an epic 3 week family holiday – I then needed a holiday to recover from being the operations manager of said holiday :-). After a few days of R&R I walked into my sewing cave and was disgusted by the mess – I have since been busily beavering away when I can to organise it. Promise I will post as soon as I am done. Anyhow I hope you all had a lovely Easter holiday too.
Tonight I am excited to share this shirt. News FLASH – I actually made a shirt that is not a Granville! Its Burda 6849 which I finished before the holiday. Made in cotton lawn thats like Liberty but I am not 100% certain.
For me few things look more together than a quick pairing of jeans (preferably clean) and a well fitting shirt. Having discovered a shirt that suits my lifestyle, I may have made a 4th Granville shirt :-).
The floral fabric was purchased from Ebay over a year ago and I cant say what sort of fabric it it. Its definitely cotton – not fine enough to be lawn and not heavy enough to be quilting cotton.
I have already regaled with the details of fitting here and made 2 further ones in paisley and floral so there is not much else to add.
Perhaps construction wise I made it a lot faster. I can’t imagine making a shirt without using flat felled seams. There is an almost meditative joy in flat felling for me. For the buttons I used repurposed Crew Clothing Co from an old old old shirt.
Some pictures taken a while back.
I quite simply love the Granville.
In other news I have realised that sewing is one of my favorite ways to refresh. When I am not doing things that I love, that feed my soul then…….well I’ve learned from experience that when I am depleted, I’m not the wife, mother, or friend I want to be. The more I feed my own soul, the more I have to give out.
The only problem is time. Since I can’t clone myself a la Multiplicity ( a great movie if you haven’t watched) or simply wish for more hours in a day – I must make the time.
We all know that doesn’t happen automatically. It needs to be planned, especially if you are responsible for the daily care of kids among other things. I find these stages of constant giving can be draining. I haven’t yet quite figured out how I will do it but my thinking hat is on. Just the realisation was a huge shift for me. I now know I dont have to feel guilty about spending money on patterns or fabric or time in my sewing cave. Because it actually makes me a better person. On that note many thanks for reading this far into my ramblings.
Greetings and salutations! I have been quiet – busy beavering away. Frantically trying to set up our new home before the little people break off for summer. Between the end of year plays, scout camps, music exams and all the craziness that comes with summer sewing time has been rare as hen’s teeth. I have managed to squeeze in a late night here and there out of a sheer need for a fix….yes I get angsty and irate and impatient when I haven’t done anything sewing related for more that a few days. Is that withdrawal? Does that mean I am an addict in a sense?
By the time you make a pattern the fourth time round (fifth including muslin) you pretty much go on auto pilot. The challenge with this make was pattern matching the plaid. I managed at the front ok but the back – argh! The fabric is quite a fine cotton lawn that does not like being unpicked. I matched the pattern at the seam line instead of the stitching line. Lessons were learnt.
I love the fabric its so light weight and cool to wear. Despite the pattern matching issue I quite like this top. Pictures taken on my phone- our DSLR had some hiccups that weren’t going away so its gone to camera hospital.
In other news because of the house move – for the first time ever ALL my fabric stash came out of its hidey holes into the light of day. And oh boy – I have a lot! Here it is in all its glory. I even tried to sort through it but after 3 hours I gave up. I did find a lot of lovely fabric I had forgotten I had 🙂
I have committed a repeat pattern offence! This is my 3rd V1440 top. Made in linen here and in purple quilting cotton here. This is made in a cotton poplin that has a lovely drape. Its such a joy to iron and sew with this fabric. Responds beautifully to the heat and steam.
Finished with french seams, the inside are so incredibly neat. The variation with this one was just not adding the upper collar. I love it 😄So comfortable. For buttons I used mother of pearl buttons. .So dainty. Its become a fast make as this took me a couple of days to sew up. I didnt have to worry about pattern matching since its quite a busy print.
Verdict……… well on its way to being a TNT since I plan on making another one in a check pattern.
Happy sewing everyone and thanks for stopping by! I have moved house last week so no PC set up yet. Posts will be less but on the plus side I now have a proper sewing room. Squee!! Not set up yet. How should I celebrate? More fabric or patterns? Los.
Update on purple top which had the stiff collar. Its been washed twice now and it looks like the collar is getting softer so yeahy!
Carrying on from my last post about Sewaholic Granville I have my first Granville in proper fabric! It took a couple of days to make this.
But first let me talk about the sleeves. Since the last one was sleeveless I didn’t go into any detail about the sleeves. I made a couple of changes to the sleeves. The reviews mostly said the sleeves were on the long side. I reduced sleeve length by measuring the sleeves on my favourite work shirt. The sleeve lost 1.5″ as a result. Another change I made was the cuff: rounded corners instead of points as I don’t like/ am not very good at poking out corners. My favourite work shirt has rounded corners too so it provided inspiration ;-).
Speaking of poking out corners, I Pinterest stumbled upon this collar method on Off The Cuff Sewing Style blog and gave it a go. Using this method produced my sharpest points to date. Check it out its very interesting. For the seam finishes I just overlocked the topstitched. I want to try flat felled seams though for next time. The buttons are from Mr SNS’s old Marks and Spencer shirt that has also adorned my Holyburn skirt pockets. It has served me well.
Moving on to the fabric. It is a busy print cotton poplin which handles like a dream. Responds so well to the iron. I love fabric like that. Its not too drapey but has enough structure to hold a crease. I bought it sometime in March specifically to make a Granville after seeing Pips’ (thegirlinateacup). I felt that it looked a little bit like Liberty albeit a cheap imitation at £5/m ;-). I also thought that a busy print without having to worry about pattern matching was called for. One sweet day I will make it in proper nauseatingly expensive Liberty!
Less words more pictures……
I love this shirt – can you tell?
Thanks again for stopping by and until next time Happy sewing!
Hope you are all having a good week! Mine has been busy with work seeing little sewing action. I do have a post about my Sewaholic Granville muslins.
I bought this pattern along with the Oakridge blouse during the 33% off sale. Bargain!
I read pattern reviews and learnt that Sewaholic drafts specifically for a pear shaped figure. I knew that there would be a lot of work on my part to fit my as yet unfigured out body shape. I have no idea how I would classify my shape consequently I pay very little attention to that when buying patterns. I just see something I like and I go for it.
I digress, ok back to the good stuff…..
Muslin numero 1 was made up in a stripey linen. I blocked off an entire weekend to fit until I got a working pattern. And it took that weekend and more!
I cut a size 4 and sewed it up. Enjoyed the process of the burrito yoke method.
Fit wise there was way too much fabric at the back but the bust was fine. Yeahy! No bust adjustments!
For the back I had no idea what to do so I pinched out the side seams. When that didn’t work I took to Instagram and IG buddies came to the rescue. I took a wedge out of the center back in an unconventional way.
From what I gather (after I had done my unconventional fix) a traditional swayback adjustment is when you take the fabric out on the horizontal line but i took my wedge out vertically. I pivoted along grainline IYSWIM. It made sense at the time I was doing it and it seemed to do the trick. I also pinched abou 1/4″ out the yoke piece. Once I did those adjustments I was happy enough with the fit to move on to the sleeves!
The plackets were a real nightmare. I have had issues with those on both muslins so next time I am using a placket template I found through a Youtube tutorial here. I cut my losses and moved on to fitting the sleeves. They were fine but I didn’t like the way the sleeves kind of dropped off my shoulder. So I raised my sleeve cap ( still not to sure what this means but in my head it means pinching out the top bit of the sleeve so the seam is sitting on top of my shoulder). And that did the trick.
I then transferred my pattern changes. Once that was done I cut out the next muslin. End of weekend.
The next weekend I sewed up Numero 2. The light weight chambray was just divine! It has such a fantastic drape and handle – cutting and sewing it was such a pleasure. I get excited just recalling how lovely it was to work with ;-). Due to the placket issue I abandoned the sleeves and made it sleeveless with bias bound armholes.
So here it is! I am very happy with the fit.
Verdict: “The harder the battle the sweeter the victory” ….it took a lot of time and effort. There were many times I wanted to give up but it is so worth it! I have cut out 2 more already that need to be sewn up. An awesome pattern if you dare to put in the graft to sort out the fit but if you are lucky enough to be pear shaped you might just get the perfect fit straight out of the packet!
Speaking of pear shape do you know what your body shape/type is? I never noticed that Vogue McCalls patterns have body shape recommendations on them…Does it even matter? Or is being able to fit any pattern to your body the sewing skill to aim for? Share your thoughts down below!
Thanks for clicking by and as always happy sewing!
Here is a diagram trying to show how I dealt with my pooling fabric. Its not a sanctioned method or anything its just what I did – in fact there are probably many thing wrong with how I did but I got lucky and it did the trick for this project. So I guess it a lucky fluke.
Since I’ve already made the pattern once, there’s not really anything new to report in terms of construction. I have made this before here in linen and I did a comprehensive post here about the construction.
I made this in what I now know to be a medium weight purple quilting cotton. When I bought the fabric it was being sold as 100% cotton suitable for shirts. You live and learn.
I gushed when I saw the colour and it was love at first sight. I brought it home; it washed dried and cut within 24 hours. The fabric has a beautiful jewel tone .. however it doesn’t drape very well. Its quite stiff but perfectly serviceable.
I made this exactly as before except for the collar. I decided to try glue basting. Spent £5 on fabric glue and also bought a meter of sew in light weight woven interfacing… Yeah I am not convinced. Either I messed up the application or I got the wrong glue. The collar is stiff and am considering taking off the the upper collar and leaving the collar stand.
I accidentally sewed the armband to the inside of the bodice. But thats ok… You can only see the line of edgestitching.
I thought I would be getting more wear out of these tops by now but the weather hasn’t been playing ball. I am hopeful for the summer though <fingers crossed> :-).
I think the next time I make it I will use a smaller collar but other than the fabric issue I really like this shirt. The colour is aMaZing!! I have only worn it around the house with a cardi.
The pictures are a bit blurry because the light was so poor… ah well. I thought I’d use a different background.
Thanks so much for clicking by and until next time …Happy sewing everyone!
I am back with the construction details of my beloved Vogue V1440 top. I warn you this is quite text and photo intensive so feel free to scroll on by ;-).
Size and fit
As mentioned previously looking the at Vogue pattern sizing I should have cut a size 14. The pattern tissue itself looked like the size 14 was huge. I looked at the finished garment measurements on the tissue pattern (the pattern envelope only showed the finished length). The finished garment bust measurement was 38″. My bust is 33″. That’s a lot of ease…I mean a huge amount. Even when I was pregnant with twins this would have had plenty of ease.
Instead I used those tissue measurements to determine the size to cut which was a size 8. Still doubting myself I prudently cut a size 10 with the idea being I could take it in where it needed taking in. But little did I realise that it would still be very loose for me with the armholes gaping somewhat. I dealt with the armholes and bust by simply pinching out the excess at the side seams and pinning. I marked on the muslin how much was pinched out. Measured and took that off the front pattern pieces and the back pattern piece. 5/8″ was taken off on each of the 4 seams so about 2.5″ in total taken off to make it fit just right. So in the end it was a Size 8 with 2.5″ removed at side seams. From a size 14!!! I am so glad I am at that stage in my sewing now where I no longer blindly follow a pattern. It would have put me ff Vogue patterns otherwise. I reckon I am an intermediate beginner now :-).
This was fun. I was very apprehensive and procrastinated a fair bit out of fear of failure. I didn’t think I had the skill to make a collar or a yoke piece. This year is all about pushing myself and expanding my boundaries so I insisted, against myself, that since I had spent money on the pattern therefore I had to make it. No sitting in my stash looking pretty! I am trying to break my cycle of buying patterns and packing them away by using what I buy straight away.
I dithered over tracing because there was so much tracing to do. I usually trace on greaseproof paper and these pattern pieces were too wide for the greaseproof paper so I thought of …hush now….cutting into my tissue paper :-o. But I couldn’t and had to go onto Instagram to hear whats what with tissue cutting. Instabuddies bolstered my confidence I went for it. Well sort of…..I cut the tissue BUT not to size 10. Kept all the sizes and did that thing where the edges are folded into the size i needed. I know I am a wuss but I am not there yet!
I used a linen fabric and it took me an hour to cut out and transfer markings. I used pencil to transfer markings as that seems to wash off well plus I can actually see the markings (I know I am naughty using pencil).
In my previous muslin I followed the pattern instructions until the collar and switched to Pam Howard’s Craftsy Class. On this one I did the collar first. I used lightweight fusible interfacing on the collar. Again used the Craftsy class and produced this neat clean looking collar which I am insanely proud of. I remembered to topstitch with the top collar facing up and it looked much neater than the first time.
Fly Front or Concealed button placket
With the collar ready to go in I worked on the left front which has the fly front. I struggled with understanding the fly front instructions in the pattern so I used this Youtube video tutorial. It was great at explaining how to create a standard hidden placket. I am such a visual person and I love Youtube for its wealth of tutorials.
Something I also like about this pattern is that the buttonholes are made right at the beginning. Buttonholes tend to slow me down at the end of a project. But here they are the 4th step after the darts. However, it was very important to have transferred my markings very very accurately. I didn’t with my first muslin and the buttonhole ended up too close to the stitching line and the fold; entirely my fault for being quick and fast and not paying proper attention. Once the front left was done I moved on to the right side which had a lot less folds. The instructions say to handstitch the first fold made but I didnt do that and it still looks fine – I don’t understand that step because by the time you make the second fold that handstitched part is not visible…?? So yeah not sure what that’s about!
Center back slit. The back has 2 pieces sewn together at center back. The instructions have you finish the seam by turning under and basting the seam followed by edgestitching. It looks very neat. I squinted a lot while doing this step. For the slit I basted the slit pressed open the seam, finished the seam by edgestitching. A seam ripper to remove the basting and open the slit which created a super neat slit. I didn’t do this in my first one and the seam there was wonky. The benefits of making a muslin!!!!.
Next stage was sewing the back and sides together using french seams. I love french seams for their neat look. The pattern instructions say to “stitch 3mm (1/8″) from seamline in seam allowance. Trim close to stitching. With right sides together, crease along seam:press. Stitch along seamline encasing raw edges” From my understanding that would create a seam allowance of about 2/8″. The pattern states the 5/8″ seam allowances included. SO yes I found that a bit confusing and I decided to stick to what I had already known as french seam seam which was sew 6mm (2/8″), trim, turn and sew another 6mm(2/8″). I learnt this when I made my Carme blouse.
Ok this is where the fun bit started for me. The arm bands have 2 pieces a back and front which are sewn together. They are attached to the armholes with right side of armhole banding to wrong side of bodice. Sew and trim clip and turn over press. Now the instructions dont tell you to uinderstitch but it seem intuitive to do so. I didn’t with my first muslin but did so with this one and it was much flatter, neater and no peeking.
Instead of yoke I did the hem finish. Pattern requires you to cut the bias strip for bias binding. This means that the fabric requirement is about half a meter more than necessary just for a self binding. I didn’t cut on the bias. In future I will use bias binding rather than using up unnecessary fabric (especially if its pricey fabric). The instructions were very good and clear on this step. The hem is a bit stiff because I didn’t cut the trim on the bias. I also used a contrast trim to add a little pop of colour.
The triangular yoke needed to be sewn to a point and I used this Youtube tutorial which immediately made it clear. It’s actually for a godet insertion but its the same principle. So I got this in and created a sharp point nearly perfect! Another bit I am insanely proud of! When that goes in the remaining seam has to be turned under ready for the finished yoke band.
For the band I took the extra step of drawing in the seam lines and basting before pressing the seam under. My V band was spot on (I didn’t do this first time around) but the difference is very clear non? V band ready it gets place over the triangle yoke and basted in before edgestitching. I tried to do something fancy with double stitching but I wasn’t great at keeping even distance. Meh… you live and learn :-).
I used a LOT of pins and sewed on the slowest speed.
Next was french seaming the shoulder seams. Again thoroughly love french seaming 😉 Then bodice was ready to be attached to the collar. Straight forward – no issues there. It was so nice knowing that once the collar was sewn on, all I had to do were the buttons and it could be worn! Used a lot of pins on the collar to make sure it didn’t shift. I finished by handstitching the inner collar. For the first time ever I enjoyed handstitching. Gave it a final press and it looked fab. The instructions are to topstitch the collar band but I skipped that – I liked it just as it was!
In conclusion (phew)
1. Check the tissue for the size. It is very very loose fitting.
2. Understitch the armhole band to give them a nice easy curl under.
My thoughts are that the collar may be a bit too wide for my liking (its a very minor thing though). I have already cut out another one!
Is it just me or is shirtmaking quite addictive? Have you made a shirt recently? Did you enjoy it or it put you off?
Its a long post and I dont normally do such long post but I had a few emails asking about the construction of this top. I promise no long posts for a while yet (unless they involve lots of pictures cause you all know how much I love my pictures!
How are you? Hope you are having a great weekend! I am super excited to share my completed second muslin of the V1440 top. Firstly fit was an issue on my first go which I wrote about here. Here is a picture of the first muslin fit.
Now on to Muslin2….
And the back yoke detail that I love so much! My edgestitching is dodgy…so is my topstitching for that matter ;-(..
Vogue V1440 View A
So whats the plan now?
I am cutting out another one this weekend and will make it with just a collar stand.
This one counts as wearable muslin.
Figure out neat edgestitching.
I will do another post just on the construction and the interiors – I had so much fun with it and took loads of pictures. So that will be coming soon ;-).
Happy sewing everyone and have an awesome weekend!
This is a super quick ‘Notebook’ style post. Its to post my notes on processes etc so I don’t loose them. I have a bad habit of writing adjustments on the nearest writing place and I always end up loosing the notes! Grrr!!!. So anyway this is a work in progress on Vogue V1440. I did a post on the new Vogue spring patterns and mentioned how I loved V1440. I had to wait a few more weeks before they were available here in the UK. When it arrived I was petrified. What my made me think I could make a shirt with such complex details? A triangle yoke!
Ok bullet points coming….
Points to remember,
1. Coral linen for the muslin. Linen was very thick on the the french seams and the fly front.
2. The collar was constructed under the helpful dulcet tones of Pam Howard’s Tailored Shirt Craftsy class. It was so helpful. This my first collar = can you believe how professional it looks! I cant believe I did this on my first go. That class is easily my favourite! <I am not paid to say this, I bought this class last year during Black Friday>
3. I mixed up my front pieces and somehow ended up with the buttons and buttonholes on the wrong side. Women button towards the heart and men away from the heart….mine buttons away. I have to really watch out for this because the two front pieces are cut separately.
4. I also need to remember when topstitching the collar to make sure that the upper collar is facing up so its neater.
5. I fudged the point on the yoke triangle but not bad for a first go. I need to read up on sewing perfect points.
The fit is very very loose. By the measurement chart I should have cut a size 14 but when I looked at the pattern to see what the waist and bust measurements of the completed garment would be – I needed to cut an 8. Being prudent and fearing mistakes, I cut a 10 instead. It was still too loose fitting for my liking with some armhole gaping. So I took off 6/8 inch at the sides and the sides and that eliminated the armhole gaping.
I didn’t bother with finishing he hem but I will on my next muslin.
Adjustments to side seams made, back pieces traced and front pieces folded in at side seams. Work has begun on a second muslin.
I do like the construction order. Its very neat and thorough. I absolutely loved every second of making this up. Steam and heat were my friends on this one – I love linen for its response to a hot iron 😉