SWAP2017 Pt 6: By Hand London Anna Dress in Frida Kahlo

Last year I was working full steam on a SWAP2017 wardrobe. You can read some of the previous SWAP2017 posts here <link here>.

This is the fifth garment that I made for the SWAP2017 capsule – an endeavour which started in 2016! I did finish this in time for the April 2017 deadline but for some reason its taken its time to get to the blog.

The capsule plan was to have one statement-y dress.

My SWAP2017 “Vision Board”

There was a limit on how many patterns you could use – the max was 8 patterns for 11 garments. I used the Anna dress because it could be easily modified.

The trick was to find a fabric that I loved but that could go with all the other pieces. After much searching, I eventually landed on the Frida y Catarina fabric in a blue background on EBay. To say I fell for this fabric is an understatement. I freaking love this fabric and consequently the dress.

I have made the Anna dress three times before. I have not made it using a medium weight quilting cotton like this Alexander Henry fabric. Ruth’s Core Couture tutorial was a godsend. She shows with well-detailed instruction and rationale how to prevent neckline gaping that can be an issue with wide V necklines. You can check out the tutorial here – a must-read for anyone who has ever been exasperated with a neckline that won’t lay flat.

Stay tape in the neckline of the BHL Anna Dress

The results more than speak for themselves. I have since used that same approach on many more projects with great results.

 

When we went to the US last year for my FIL’s 70th birthday celebrations I took it along. Its one of what I like to call “The Magnificent 3” dresses. Whenever I wear any of those 3, I get a lot of compliments. I will probably write up a post about them and why I think they get so many compliments – advance spoiler – it is not about the dress per se. Anyway, I digress pictures.

BHL Anna Dress on location in Central Park, New York – hence the walking sandals 🙂
BHL Anna Dress

The fabric is a border print and I was not keen to cut into the print. I cut the bodice on the cross grain so that the Frida print was only at the hem. The skirt pieces are rectangles with darts added. The darts matched up with the bodice darts. That created the A line shape of the skirt. I contemplated adding pockets but decided that the design lines were more important. My problem is that I do actually use my pockets heavily and there are some styles that look and feel odd to me when the pocket is in use.

The hem is exactly at the selvedge edge. I wanted the maximum length I could get. It used 3 meters of fabric with very little scraps. The benefit of quilting cottons like the Alexander Henry ones is that they do wash and keep the colours well. I imagine that in time, with more washes, the fabric will get softer. The thought brings a smile to my face as I hope to be wearing this dress for decades.

Picture was taken in May this year – with my frohawk and post SticthRoom Sewcial so my eyebrows were neat 🙂
I love the vibrant orange flowers on the fabric.  BHL Anna Dress
Power pose….LIKE A BOSS!!! BHL Anna Dress
BHL Anna Dress

Last week on Saturday I went to see the Frida Kahlo exhibit in London – I believe that’s what prompted me to finally write about this dress on the blog. I am still processing my thoughts on the experience and will be writing a post about it soon.

Back to the SWAP2017 – I still have more of the garments to write about and those posts should be ready…..soonish :-).

In the meantime, I do have a video on my YouTube channel if you’d like to see this dress in motion.

Thanks for stopping by this corner of the interwebs.

Peace and love,

Hila

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Sleeveless Peplum Blouse BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114 #burdachallenge2018

BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B

Here is a pattern that I like so much I made several of them in succession! I like the simple look and feel of the pattern. It is something that I have had traced for almost 2 years but never got round to making it. It seems I have made up for that.

Sleeveless Peplum Blouse 07/2015 #114

Sleeveless Peplum Blouse 07/2015 #114

I have the tops in this Youtube video here

So I made it in the John Kaldor Lizzano sateen fabric first. The John Kaldor was something I fell for when my friend Ali (akathimberlina) showed hers on IG and I quickly bought from an online shop. Unfortunately, I can’t remember the name of the shop. Its beautiful vibrant fabric that I used to make a shirtdress the M6696 shirtdress and used leftovers to make some this top.

I managed to sew this out of just under a meter of fabric. The rest was used to make a sash.

BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B

The instructions tell you to insert an elastic on the waist but opted not to do that as I found (much to my surprise) that I like the free boxy look.

Instead of sewing the armhole bias binding in the round, here is what I did:

After finishing the neckline I sewed up the shoulder seams. Then sewed the armhole binding in the flat. Next, I sewed the side seams. I fell like this was far easier and neater than sewing in the round.

 

So when it came time to think about my #makenine2018 I knew that the barkcloth would look amazing in this pattern and I did not hesitate to cut into it. I love it!

BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B

I also had some linen left over from the Hollyburn skirt I made a couple of years ago and it was just enough to make this top too. Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures but you can see it on my Youtube channel at the link above.

And then I tried the longer non-peplum version of the top but with a few twists, i.e. adding a knit cuff neckline on a woven like I learnt when I made the Merchant and Mills Tee for my husband. It did quite work out though because I forgot to not stretch out the knit cuffing. I am so used to stretching it slightly when sewing but I needn’t have done it with this one so. It does do a bit of a puddle but never mind. The John Kaldor fabric is so comfy against the skin. I barely had 3/4m left from when I made the Sheath Dress.

Alterations

The line drawing shows that the back has a CB seam which means cutting 2 back pieces. I only did that with the first one. Subsequent ones were cut on the fold. It makes no difference at all because the CB is straight.

Size traced: 38.

Verdict – Definitely, a great top that I have no doubt I will come back to again and again. I had a think about which one is my favourite and………..its…………

Making my first print at The StitchRoom Sewcial, Loughborough University, June 2018. Picture courtesy of Lucy Regan, SewEssential.co.uk

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Cowl Neck Top 01/2017 #119 #burdachallenge2018

This was another unplanned make for my #burdachallenge2018. The idea for this developed after meeting the fabric. SO I will start with the fabric. This is a beautiful shiny viscose jersey with the most beautiful drape – it is like a liquid gemstone. I picked it up from Fletchers Fabrics in Leeds while shopping with my friend Eleanor. I bought 1.5m without any idea of what to make with it. It was only when I was shooting my Youtube fabric haul video that I realised what this fabric could become.

The pattern is from the Jan 2017 issue of BurdaStyle. Here is the line drawing:

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119

And here is the style picture 

The recommended fabric is silk jersey in order to achieve the exaggerated cowl neck. The instructions were easy to follow. The neck is finished in an ingenious way IMO. I handstitched the shoulder yoke facing as I didn’t want to topstitch. The sleeves are set in which is a little tedious to do on jersey fabrics but worth it in the end.

It came together quickly. The little bralet is a gem of a pattern as well. I used rainbow foldover elastic because I like it. The pattern calls for cutting out strips of fashion fabric otherwise. Technically this is the first bra I have sewn :-). I am looking forward to whipping up more of the bralets using scrap fabrics.

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top – The bralet on its own is a great pattern with a good fit.

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top Rainbow foldover elastic
Interior view of the back.
Handstitched inner shoulder yoke facings.
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top

I cut my usual Burda 38 but I felt like I could have gone down a size on this which is unusual.

Verdict – a great stylish pattern with the deep cowl. I think I could have done a better job with styling it though. I feel this was designed to be tucked in but in my pictures, I didn’t do that. It does make a difference to how the top looks. Its a lovely top though I doubt I shall be making another one any time soon – I might try it again in size 36.

Thanks for stopping by!

 

 

 

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

3 X BurdaStyle Magazine 09/2010 #121A #burdachallenge2018

Ever since I sewed up the turtleneck top from Burdastyle 09/2010 in 2016, I have been planning more variations in my head. You see, this top pattern is so easy to sew up and comfy to wear as it doesnt have a neck seam. Here is the line drawing:

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Burda 09/2010 #121A

 

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Seamless neckline from my first 2016 version

 

To be honest with you I could waffle on but there really isn’t much more to add about this pattern that I haven’t already said here. So here are pictures of the three latest ones which also fulfilled my March #burdachallenge2018 goals.

BurdaStyle 09/2010 #121 – This is a crepe jersey that I picked up from a fabric swap at SewUpNorth
BurdaStyle 09/201 #121 – Fabric is a viscose jersey from Fabworks Mill Shop
BurdaStyle 09/2010 #121 – Quite possibly my favourite made of a viscose jersey that I bought from B&M Fabrics in Leeds Market.

So these have been in heavy rotation especially for layering in the colder months. Its been getting a bit warmer so for now they have been put aside until September. Isn’t it lovely to find a TNT pattern? I now have 5 of these 🙂

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

SWAP2017 Pt 5: Ansterick Holsten Sweater and an Experiment in pre washing yarn

Last year I was working full steam on a SWAP2017 wardrobe. You can read some of the previous SWAP2017 posts here <link here>:

For one of my uppers – I opted for a  knitted item. The inspiration was based on a Bella Freud 1970 Jumper . This jumper retails at £300.

The pattern I used was the Holsten jumper by Anstrick

Once I had selected the pattern the next challenge was finding the bright red yarn colour. Someone on Ravelry recommended Cascade Ultra Pima Cotton DK yarn. The yarn has a lovely lustre to it and it had a lipstick red shade that looked promising. I ordered several balls of different reds from various brands but this was the one that nailed it. Luckily they also had the black and white of the same yarn.

The next challenge was how to prevent bleeding. From the many posts that I read where people had knitted with red and white or black and white – there was a bleeding issue when the garment was washed. After ruminating on the issue for a while I thought that maybe I could try pre-washing the yarn before knitting to reduce any bleeding potential in the same way we prewash fabric for sewing.

Luckily the yarn comes in skeins. My first attempt was a bit of a travesty because I didnt do anything to prevent the yarn from tangling. On my second attempt, I loosely tied the skein at 4 different points so that I could easily reconstitute the skein.

The prewashing process involved filling the sink with hot water and soaking for about an hour, gently wringing the water out and repeating until the water ran clear. For the red this took approximately 4 soakings, the black took 6 soakings to run clear. I also did the white twice because I needed it to have a similar texture to the black and red.

After drying out the skeins I then had to wind them into yarn balls. There were a lot of online tutorials to help. I used a kitchen roll tube and spent several hours balling up the skein. It was tedious but I think it was worth it in the end. 

Dryng the prewashed yarn

Pre washed and un washed side by side
Prewashed on left. Has a ‘fuller’ look and feel. Unwashed on right.

 

I swatched with 3.75, then 3,5 but it was 3,25 that got the correct stitch gauge. I should have done some mods since the pattern calls for fingering 4 ply but my yarn was DK. However, I still do not understand these things so I went on ahead with the proviso that I would be trying it along the way to see what I need to change. On the whole this worked, I think I managed to get away with it :-).

This pattern knits up quite quick since it all stokinette stitch. It was also a great opportunity for me improve my Portuguese knitting skills. I think the fit is quite good. Yarn feels comfy against my skin.

The prewashing seems to have worked. When I washed this there was no bleeding.

And here I am wearing it last year.

The pattern instructions were very clear and well written. I learnt some new techniques like the saddle stitch for the raglan sleeve. It may not be the best but I had a great time knitting this. I’d have liked to do add in a HILA motif on the white section but my skills are not yet there. I am still very happy with this jumper.

Finally, I used just under 5 skeins of red and less than 1 skein each of black and white. The total cost of the yarn was £50.48. Not bad considering the inspiration retails at £300. Win!

Thanks for stopping by my little corner of the internets. Until next time, happy knitting!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for stopping by this corner of the interwebs.

Peace and love,

Hila

Butterick B6097 – Pattern Review

The story with this top is that it started as a Pinterest pin on my Clothes I Think I Can Make board.

Sometime later, I randomly stumbled upon a McCall Pattern Company all brand sale wherein I made the acquaintance of  Butterick B6097.

Butterick B6097

Butterick B6097 is described as a fitted shirt, has collar and peplum variations, princess seams, front button-down closure and button band. Technically speaking, this is a toile which turned out to be very wearable.

I used quilting cottons that I bought from Leeds Market. There was point in my early sewing life when I would buy 1m pieces of quilting cottons <why?> /sigh. Anyway, I had just enough to make this top in the short peplum style with box pleats. I can’t recall why I went for the peter pan collar but I think I wanted to practice finishing a peter pan collar with bias binding.

I cut a size 8 based on the finished bust measurement. I made no alterations at all. The fit is pretty spot on. It could do with a small swayback adjustment if I was being all perfectionist about it. But I’m not, so I won’t and that’s okay.

Butterick B6097
Butterick B6097 Box pleat detail

Armhole fininshed with bias tape.
Butterick B6097

I do like the peter pan collar 🙂

 

The style is ……..sassy. I feel quite sassy when I am wearing it. Now I just need to find some nice white cotton lawn fabric and finally realise the inspiration image.

Verdict – I will make again in solid neutral colour. Recommended with the caveat that I used finished garment measurement to select my size.

Thanks for stopping by. Until next time, Happy Sewing!!

Peace and love,

Hila

PS. I am nearly caught up blogging my 2017 items 🙂 That makes me happy.

 

 

Burda 05/2016 Bat Sleeve Dress #115B

This is another dress I made specially for a holiday to the seaside. Its from the May 2016 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. The style is called a bat sleeve dress. It may not be everyone’s cup of tea but I was intrigued by this pattern enough to make it.The pictures didn’t really do anything for me but it was the line drawing that grabbed me:

115-052016-m_large
BurdaStyle 05/2016 #115B

 

I have made it in ponte before here.The instructions were quite good – though this is very simply constructed dress made up of 2 pieces (front and back) and a neckband. You just have to finish the arm flaps before draping them over each other and securing with the neck-band.

I used a viscose jersey – very drapey and perfect for my purposes. I wanted something akin to a beach cover-up. Easy to to pop on and off. It did the job admirably! Here it is in action.

I definitely see more capelet dresses in the future. Its so quick and fast to sew up too.

Thanks for stopping by and until next time-

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

SWAP2017 Pt 4: Sewaholic Hollyburn & Granville Shirt

Hi guys!

Last year I was working full steam on a SWAP2017 wardrobe. You can read some of the previous SWAP2017 posts here <link here>:

For my lower, I had the Hollyburn skirt which was to be made in an orange bright orange fabric.

I bought the fabric from Fabworks. It’s a cotton twill weave which also has a geometric pattern. It has spandex it with some (about 3% stretch on the cross grain).

Instead of a facing, I used Petersham ribbon on the waistband. Pink satin bias binding on outside

Sewaholic Granville modified –

The fabric is linen dyed a navy blue using Dylon washing machine dye. This was one of the few successful results from my experiments with dyeing fabric.

The embroidery is from Kate N Rose patterns which I had bought over 3 years ago but hadnt ever bothered with it. It’s called Faraway Garden. When Kate was helping me with inspiration pictures I remembered that I had it somewhere in my digital files. Unfortunately marking dark fabric was challenging. Chalk faded away easily and my Frixion pens were not very easily visible. Patience is not one of my strong virtues and eventually, I reached a point which I just wasn’t bothered. But that’s ok – I realised that I am not yet at the beautiful intricate embroidery stage. That’s okay.

I eliminated the center front button placket. The front is sewn together with a flap for snaps of some sort (am yet to do this). I made it sleeveless by raising the armscye by 1/2″ and narrowing the shoulder by 3/4″. This makes it have a closer fit around the armhole. I bias bound the armholes using same linen fabric.

The idea was to have further embroidery on the front and back but seriously, it’s not my thing. I should have got appliques and in future, this is what I will do. As far as embroidery goes – I need to walk before I can run :-).

I am very happy with these 2 garments, more so because they are 2 of my most beloved patterns that I have made more than a dozen of collectively. Pictures….be warned the orange is really bright :-). Pictures were taken in May 2017.

Sewaholic Patterns Hollyburn Skirt and Granville Shirt

Guess the song from the dance pose 🙂

 

Thanks for stopping by this corner of the interwebs.

Peace and love,

Hila

Liberty Lawn Melilot

My July Minerva make was a new to me indie pattern company : Deer&Doe. I had seen several lovely versions on the Melilot out in the wild but had yet to take the plunge. Now I am not even sure why I waited so long!

Here I am (pre hair chop) feeling very smug in my Melilot :-). For the full post click here to be taken to my Minerva Craft Blogger Network post. 9001172262017-07-092003-37-02201

Thanks for stopping by!

Peace and love,

Hila

plus – a little video……………….

Self Drafted Drop Shoulder Tee Shirt using Metric Pattern Cutting for Womenswear by Winifred Aldrich

I have been trying to do a bit more pattern drafting. Often I just get carried away with the idea that it is far more convenient to just cut into an already drafted pattern and take it from there. However, I have spent quite a lot of money towards books, classes and tools on pattern drafting so I must make more of an effort.

I decided I wanted to make a drop shoulder tee-shirt which was inspired by this Boden top.7e0f851d2c58ed6e353d22412f7a3c11

As it happens I had an easy fit tee-shirt sloper from when I used Metric Pattern Cutting for Womenswear by Winifred Aldrich.51p5v2bnmt0l-_sr6002c315_piwhitestrip2cbottomleft2c02c35_pistarratingfourandhalf2cbottomleft2c3602c-6_sr6002c315_za11320reviews2c4452c2862c4002c4002carial2c122c42c02c02c5_sclzzzz

I drafted the sloper about 2 years ago so I decided to play around with that.

I started off with the basic tee-shirt sloper and I went on to follow the instructions for dropping the shoulder. The instructions don’t give you any further info regarding the sleeve pattern piece so I used my own logic by gently drawing an opposing curve with roughly the same amount taken off. Eventually, I stumbled upon a great post<link here> which explains in great detail the technicalities of the dropped shoulder.

I decided that at this point it would be a good idea to make a toile as I hadn’t made one yet. I used some jersey fabric that had been in my stash since 2014 – I bought it on EBAY during a late night browsing session (I have since managed to break that bad habit). I think it’s a viscose jersey which is very comfortable to wear. I also quite like the Argyl print :-).

blog20photos20march201720418blog20photos20march201720417blog20photos20march201720414

For the neckband I measured around the neckline once I had finished and deducted 30% of the measurement – added my seam allowances and voila – a neckband that snaps perfectly against my body.

My next step with this draft will be to create the yoke pattern pieces and to drop the shoulder a bit further. The next iteration will be colour blocked to see if the proportions work well.

This was a quick refreshing project as I was not having to think about the instructions or whether I may have missed out something – if I can hang on to that feeling it would help me focus on doing more drafting. Do you prefer drafting your own or find it easier to use patterns?

Thanks or stopping by,

Hila

 

Named Talvikki Sweater

I made this after buying the pattern during the 12 days of Christmas sale. It was a bargain at £5. Here is the line drawing.

talvikki_tech

My thoughts are that it is very quick to sew up and took one sitting to finish. The sleeves are very straight forward and there is no easing involved. The most challenging part for the beginner might be the mitred corners. The sizing was spot on and I didn’t make any alterations at all.

Personally I feel like the side vent is too high for a winter garment given that its supposed to keep me warm and cosy. With my poor circulation I would feel this gap acutely. In winter I wore it layered over thermal sweater underneath. The fabric is a wool jersey that I bought form Fabworks. It washes in the machine and I tumble dry it on low – that seems just fine. I have since washed this about 5 times now with no problems.

I plan on making this again in a cobalt blue wool jersey also from Fabworks but I will lengthen it while shortening the side vent.

The other issue was with my broad shoulder. though the fit is quite good there is some puddling under the collar and I had to do something like swayback adjustment to remove the pooling fabric.

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Talvikki Sweater – Vent depth
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Talviki Sweater – funnel neck detail
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Named Talvikki Sweater – Sleeve
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Pooling fabric at front neck base

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It simple minimalist chic and quite appealing on gray days. I was a bit ‘meh‘ about it when I finished it but surprisingly found myself pulling it on a lot. Which can only tell me that I like it :-).

I will report back on the ‘neck swayback’ adjustment in autumn when I get round to making the second one. Thanks for stopping by!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

New York Calling : Vogue 1314

Hello chums!

I went to the US during the half term holiday and we had one day of sightseeing with the kids in New York. Here is what I made to wear for said day in New York :-). Its another Vogue 1314 dress in delicious Art Gallery Fabric. For the whole story click on this link here.

Trying to take in the uber sensory experience that is Times Square 🙂

Thanks for stopping by!

Peace and love,

Hila