Sew It With Love Delia Top

Hello chums,

Today I am sharing my tester version of the Delia top which is a pattern that was released just before or after Christmas last year. I signed up when I saw that it had raglan sleeves.sew-it-with-love-patterns_delia-top_instructions

I decided that I wanted a peplum after I had cut out the hip length variation and saw no reason why I couldn’t add the peplum too :-).

I double-faced the peplum so I wouldn’t have any hemming to do. I also added cuffs to the long sleeves to avoid hemming. Sewing it up was quite easy and I thought the instructions were great making this a beginner friendly pattern.

The fabric has been in my stash for about 2 years now. I had bought it to make a Moneta dress but I fell out of love with the idea of an apple green Moneta. It’s a ponte knit with a lovely sheen. I used just under 1m to make this and my fabric is  57″ wide.

The hip length variation is not supposed to have a peplum – that is one of the 2 design changes I made. The other being the cuffs. In hindsight, I realise that I suck at pattern testing because I should have made it as it was supposed to and report back on that. I will do that in the future if I ever find myself pattern testing again.

Fit wise I thought it was true to size. I cut the size 10 based on my bust measurement and despite the wrinkles, it has a good fit. It’s also very comfortable. The one thing I will change though is the neckline. It’s a bit too high on me – I will lower it by about 1/2″.

I forgot to mention that this is not a sponsored post. I was given the PDF file for free but everything else was bought with my own money. There was no stipulation that testers had to blog about their make. I am sharing it because I like this top and I have been wearing it most weekends.

Pictures

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I like the subtlety of the peplum – I don’t think its too much
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I may need to size up the sleeves and that might reduce those drag lines…
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I need to lower the neckline

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Thank you so much for stopping by! Until next time Happy Sewing All!

Peace and love,

Hila

P.S. You can watch me prattling on about it below 🙂

Simplicity 1317 in Red Stretch Velvet

Hello chums,

Here is a top I made last year near the festive season. The fabric was left over from my twins Xmas dresses here.  It’s an underrated pattern called Simplicity 1317 which has raglan sleeves.

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Simplicity 1317

 

My first one still gets worn loads especially on weekends. I had to lengthen the arms by 10cms as they were too short before. I think this sort of style has a lot of mileage. I am glad I bought it during my early pattern buying sessions.

The fabric is of a lightweight drapey variety. Sewn up on the overlocker it leaves an awful of lint behind but it more than makes up for it by being a super quick make. It has good stretch recovery and I would buy this fabric again if I came across it. I think I’d like a sheath dress in this fabric….with a low plunging neckline….Tangentially, I think this pattern could easily lengthen into a dress.

The cuffs and the hem band were cut on a different grain – insufficient fabric – but I think I mostly got away with it. The neckband was the only casualty.  Which makes me think about grain and its importance with stretch fabrics – perhaps there is more wriggle room than with wovens…I digress.

Sizing wise I actually felt that this was true to size. I cut the size Small based on my bust measurement and I am amazed that there was not the usual excess ease I associate with BIG 4 patterns.

Pictures

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Simplicity 1317

 

Some more pictures from one of the Xmas dos that had a Santa’s Grotto for the kids…

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Taking over Santa’s throne…
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I think he was checking his IG 🙂
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Mini Santa
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Eye of the tiger
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Panda baby…
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Pretty butterfly

****I am not supposed to have favourites but the butterfly is just perfect!******

I feel resplendent in this top and sure enough it was worn to a couple of Christmas events where I was trying to pull off festive nonchalant chic as way of covering up my ever bulging tum ( all that festive feasting was intent on revealing itself!). Currently, crunches and planks are now de rigueur until that festive tum is banished!

Off to my yoga mat…..you know resolutions and all that…..la di da…..

Thanks for stopping by and until next time Happy Sewing all!

Peace and love,

Hila

BurdaStyle Magazine:Turtleneck 09/2010 #121A

Hello everyone,

Today’s post is a super quick one to share a very simple top. I made this from an old Burda magazine that I bought on Ebay last year. Here is a picture of it

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Burda 09/2010 #121A

It so happened that I was looking for a simple roll neck pattern and before I went buying or drafting a new one – I decided to browse my growing Burda Magazine collection. So glad I did that because I had never registered this pattern before. I quite like that it doesnt have a neck seam – makes for faster sewing.

I had 1m of John Kaldor Isabelle wool jersey that I bought in June. I just managed to fit this pattern and I was left with very satisfying slivers of fabric that indicate a most efficient use of the yardage! blog-pictures-coco-etc-276blog-pictures-coco-etc-277

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Back view
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Seamless neckline
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love this roll neck
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The sleeves are extra long
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I love this fabric so much – I bought 2 more meter in this colour for a dress.

I love this fabric and I have bought 2 more meters of this colour to make a dress.

Construction wise it comes together very quickly. I did not make any alterations to the pattern. I didn’t finish the roll neck edge as my fabric doesn’t unravel. I set in the sleeves and though it wasn’t the best job – it doesn’t look too bad. I finished the hems with a narrow zigzag. The sleeves are meant to be longer so that they have a ruched effect – love that.

I want to make another in black and gunmetal grey. Its a great foundation piece for my wardrobe.

So this makes my 12th Burda make this year and my goal has been reached. Here’s to more Burda makes from me in 2017!

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

BurdaStyle Magazine 12/2014 #114B Seamed Jersey Turtleneck Top

Hello everyone,

Here is another Burda make as I race towards the end of the year in which I must make at least 12 Burda garments. I do really like BurdaStyle Magazine and I am keen to get a 12 month subscription.

This is from the 12/2014 issue and it was the featured sewing course pattern which is great because its the only one that Burda will hold your hand and walk you through the entire process (very nice of them). Here is the line drawing.

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BurdaStyle 12/2014 #114B

I cut my usual size 38 and it fits perfectly (a good reason why I am keen of getting my subscription on for 2017). I made 3 changes:

  1. The sleeve head. It was HUGE – I mean incredibly poofy and combined with my broad shoulder I looked somewhat ….odd. I reduced it by a good 2″ to get to this ‘poof’ which IMO is a good balance. The rest of the sleeve did not disappoint – am quite enamoured with the bishop style sleeve and exaggerated cuff.
  2. I cut the back on a fold instead of having a centre back seam.
  3. I omitted the zip – my ponte has enough stretch to go over my head without a zip plus I wasn’t keen on the idea of a zip against the back of my neck – its a very sensitive area for me and one of the reasons why my hair is almost always tied.

Fabric wise I used a ponte knit that was left over from a Marfy dress I made (post coming soon). I am glad I had enough of this left over as I love this colour! Its a medium weight ponte. The instructions call for stabilising the princess seams but I didn’t do that since my fabric was sturdy enough. I have worn this at least 3 times already and its holding up just fine. I did stabilise the shoulder seams though ( a standard procedure for me with all my knit projects).

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Burdastyle 12/2014 #114B Top
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Back view

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Overall its a good pattern and I like that its easily adaptable into a sheath dress or add a peplum and it becomes a cute flirty dress. Go sleeveless, remove the polo neck and it will work in summer. Yes – there will definitely be more of this pattern in the future.

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

The Great British Sewing Bee From STitch to Style: The Japanese Top

Hello all,

I am ever so pleased to share this top with you that has become an unexpected favourite of mine. It’s from the GBSB sewing book from the most recent series. The book only cost £9.99 on Amazon with free P&P. Its great value given the number of patterns that come with the book (27 I think). I would like to make quite a few of the patterns in there actually.

The pattern is the Japanese top which is similar in style to those you would find in the Drape Drape books but a lot easier to achieve in my opinion.

I was attracted to the batwing sleeves and the cowl neck. The pattern sheets in the book are well laid out and quite easy to trace. They aren’t as stacked as other patterns sheets that I have come across. I thought the instructions were very well written and a beginner would have confidently made this top. The only fly in the ointment for me was the large pattern pieces – so large that I had to staple 2 lengths of baking parchment to get the pieces ready.

I have had this interlock jersey for a while now waiting for the right pattern. The panel print has a large rose every 1 meter. I had to move the piece around and cut on a strange grain to get the rose centered on the front. I don’t think with interlock and a drapey top the grain matters too much ( I may be wrong). It came together very easily but I didn’t change the overlocker thread :-(. A choice I lament very much here in my YouTube video (link at bottom of this post)fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-814fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-826fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-838fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-848fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-867

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Great British Sewing Bee Assymetrical Japanese top

The cowl sits okay when I am not moving about too much but when I bend over it will pop out but I have since tacked it down by hand. The next time I make it I will increase the size of the facing.

I added a cuff to the sleeve to make it longer – it’s a personal preference. I also added 2 ” to the hem so I can wear it with leggings.

Overall I really like this top and feel like I have made a one of a kind item that will get worn a lot.

I have already traced out this skirt which was the reason that I bought the book. sewing-bee-book-a-skirtAfter seeing Beth’s version I was very inspired to make it. That will be my next project from the book. Have you got this book? Have you made anything from it?

Thanks for stopping by. Happy Sewing!

Peave and love,

Hila

XXX

Sewaholic Renfrew Pt. 4, 5 & 6

I can’t believe I only made my first Renfrew top early this year around February time. Now I have 6 versions – with still more to make.

Renfrew Pt 4

Made in polka dot poly jersey that’s been a stasher for yonks (since stash began actually) and it makes for a drapey lightweight top. I made this for the SewDots challenge, but I didn’t submit it because I decided I wasn’t particularly keen on the prizes.

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Polka dots Renfrew – makes me feel jazzy!
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Cowl neck detail

Renfrew Pt 6.

Made from some John Kaldor fabric left over from another project. I just manged to squeeze in the scoop neck version with three-quarter length sleeves. Not bad for about 3/4meters of fabric. I am happy with this. I really quite love the dramatic floral print.

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Sewaholic Renfrew
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Scoop neck detail

Renfrew Pt 5

Made in a ponte weight fabric bought in early days. I only had  one meter but I was determined to make this a cowl neck version. After much messing about – I got it to fit but had to sacrifice the cuffs and have a narrower hem band. In lieu of same colour cuffs I colour blocked with a lovely contrasting grey. I wear this a lot as layer under stuff. Rarely on its own though.

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Neutral Renfrew – love the drape of this cowl – so much body to it.
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Cowl neck detail

 

 

That will do as far as Renfrews go for this year. Will I make more Renfrews in 2017? We will have to see………Have you made 6 of one pattern this year too? 

Thanks for stopping by, until next time, Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

Burda 05/2016 Bat Sleeve Dress #115B

Hello everyone,

Despite the cold weather in October I made a dress from the May edition of BurdaStyle Magazine. The style is called a bat sleeve dress. It may not be everyone’s cup of tea but I was intrigued by this pattern enough to make it top of my trace and make list. The pictures didn’t really do anything for me but it was the line drawing that grabbed me:

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BurdaStyle 05/2016 #115B

 

It almost looks like a cape doesn’t it? Anyway I had bought this winter storms ponte from B&M Fabrics which I thought could work well as a autumnal dress that could be layered. It’s that time of the year where I start to think a lot about layering things so this seemed like a good candidate. I pictured it with different colour roll neck jumpers underneath.

The instructions were quite good – though this is very simply constructed dress made up of 2 pieces (front and back) and a neckband. You just have to finish the arm flaps before draping them over each other and securing with the neck-band.

Which leads to the only fly in the ointment with the otherwise easy & quick dress to make – the neckband is too big. I used the Burda dimensions and it sort of stands away from the body. I tried hand sewing it down but I needed a do over which I wasnt willing to spend time on.

This tiny issue aside – it’s a good neutral addition to my wardrobe. I wasnt too sure about the fabric when I bought it – but I got it because of my tendency to get bright and bold colours – its confusing but I am trying to diversify IYSWIM. Anyhow I digress…pictures…..

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Burda 05/2016 #115b
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Back View

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Quite like that cape-y look on the shoulder

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Erm………I know……Fine! I will fix it!

Worn with a Sewaholic Renfrew top

Will I make it again? – Undecided. Its warm when I layer it and its very comfortable – a good candidate for a Christmas day dress perhaps? I cant help but feel that maybe with a lighter weight jersey this could be truly lovely….. We will have to see.

So this is number 9 of my Burda Challenge. I have to make 12 Burda things by the end of the year to justify a subscription in 2017. So here’s hoping I can get 3 more done by then :-).

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Burda Downloadable Lydia T shirt pattern review

I made this Lydia T-shirt – it was one of the first downloadable products I ever bought. Its only 79p so it’s a good deal. I cut the size 38 which is my Burda size.

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Burda Lydia #3197 T-shirt

It’s a basic, long-sleeve t-shirt. The main difference with most other t-shirts I am familiar with is the neckline construction. This one has facings – though this picture above doesn’t show the facing version – the instructions are just like for a facing you would find on a woven top. The sleeve is supposed to be set in but I prefer flat construction with jersey fabrics.

I made this out of pure curiosity to see how the neck would turn out. I used knit fusible interfacing for the facing pieces. After sewing them to the neckline I understitched.  I gotta say I am quite impressed so far. The neck line is very neat and I love that it looks good enough to wear with a smart skirt and pass for smart workwear. I will have to see how it performs after a few washes before trying out this technique again though. Have you tried finishing the neckline on a knit top with a facing?

Fabric wise- I used a John Kaldor cotton jersey that I bought from Fletcher’s Fabrics in Leeds Market. Its left over from a Moneta dress I made around the same time. It was an utter delight to work with this fabric; as is wearing it. The comfort level on this top is very high. All the hems were done with a twin needle. Shoulders were stabilised with fusible bias tape which I also used around the neckline so it wouldn’t stretch out.

Pictures…

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Burda Lydia T Shirt
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Burda Lydia T Shirt – back

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Verdict: A solid t-shirt pattern that gains extra points for having a great price point.

Thanks for stopping by. Until next time happy sewing !

Peace and love,

Hila

BurdaStyle Boho Blouse 04/2016 #107

Hello,

This top is the very last of my summer sewing. I had forgotten about it because I finished it some time in September when it was getting cool such that I didn’t even think to wear it. Its from the May 2016 issue – an excellent issue that has a lot of styles I am smitten with.

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Boho Blouse – I liked the collar and placket detail on this top

I sewed it using a lightweight cotton from B and M fabrics in Leeds market. I really liked the circular tile effect plus the blue overtones. For the contrasting placket and sleeve bands I used some leftover fabric from the most recent McCalls M6044. I thought the colours worked well together.

I cut a size 38 which is my Burda size and is always quite spot on. It sewed up very quickly – though I used french seams for a neat inside. The cotton has a slightly stiff handle to it which I hope will soften over time.

This took me longer to finish because after I put the bodice together I wasn’t sure whether the style would be something I’d like. But now that I finished it and tried it on I was quite pleasantly surprised that I like it, especially the sleeves. Perhaps it is the colour that blinds me but I am looking forward to spring 2017 when I can start wearing it in earnest. In future I will make it using something like a Tana lawn and make it tunic length.

I have styled it with my Birkins – they seem to go with everything! Pictures….

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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Collar back view
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French seams
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Sleeve band details

 

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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107

Now, I will stride forward towards autumn.

Thanks for stopping by and have a great weekend. I’ll be back on Sunday 🙂

Peace and love,

Hila

Vogue 9084 Peplum Top : Pattern Review

Hello chums,

Hope your summer is winding down as nicely as it is here in the North of England. We have had a couple of thunder storms but otherwise most of the day I forget that its September already. Its been unseasonably warm – I am not complaining however :-). I am a tad annoyed that I had already packed away my summer clothes though!

Anyhow here is a cute little top I sewed up some time in summer. Trying to keep it simple so here is the pattern review for it.

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Pattern Description:

On-trend peplum top featuring a fitted top, a zip fastening on the reverse and a ruffled, floaty hemline.

Pattern Sizing:

8-24. I cut the size 12.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes and no. Yes it looked like the line drawing but I thought it would be more fitted based on the cover illustrations but it isnt – I supposed I could have made it more fitted by taking it in but I had already sewn up the peplum and the hassle didnt seem worth it. The armsyce is also quite lower than on the illustration. It shows my bra.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. I read through them once before starting but its a simple top so I didn’t need to refer to them again.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the floaty high low peplum hem.

Fabric Used: 

I used a viscose fabric bought from Lucky Fashions in Dewsbury during the Yorkshire Spoolettes meet up in Feb.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

The only change I made was to not include the zipper. I can pull it over my head easily.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes I will sew it again, I’d like to make the long sleeve version but in a knit fabric. I will be raising the armsyce though as that is too low. I am not sure about recommending it because of how it looks fitted on pattern illustration but its actually not. I would make a conditional recommendation as follows:

I recommend you sew up a muslin of the bodice first to see if you like the fit. It can be quite easily taken in at the waist but the you have to adjust the peplum pattern pieces to fit your new waist circumference.

Conclusion: 

Its a good addition to my wardrobe – a very comfortable top that looks great with skinny jeans and leggings. I really love how the peplum moves and drapes. Apart from the issues mentioned above I like it and will definitely make another one.

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And pictures….

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Vogue 9084
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Vogue 9084 Back view. Its a bit roomy at the upper back .
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Vogue 9084 I need a swayback adjustment.
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Vogue 9084 The armscye is quite low
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Vogue 9084
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Vogue 9084 Another view of the low armhole showing my bra.
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Vogue 9084 I am trying to do an ASOS model pose – #fail
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Vogue 9084 Love how the peplum billows out when I am walking.
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Vogue 9084
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Vogue 9084 Insides finished by overlocker and armhole finished with bias binding

And a clip to show you how the peplum moves. Just click play..

 

Thanks for stopping by my little corner of the interwebs. Until next time Happy sewing all!

Peace and love,

hila

10 Fashionable Ways to style a Sewaholic Granville Shirt #OWOP16

Hello everyone,

I decided to join the One Week One Pattern (OWOP) challenge when CinderEllis announced it on her blog. The premise of OWOP  is that you select one pattern that you have made and you pledge to include that garment in your daily outfit for the week. It tends to be a lot easier if you select a pattern you have made more than once.

It didn’t sound like a great premise to me at first because well, why would I want to wear the same thing for 7 days when I have so many handmade things in my closet? Well, the beauty of this challenge, as I discovered, is that it really pushes you (at least it did for me) to find ways of overcoming wardrobe ennui. When wardrobe ennui starts to set in, the best way to beat it is with clever styling tricks. So I’d say that OWOP is more of a styling challenge rather than a wardrobe wearout challenge which inevitably happens with something like MeMadeMay.

I selected my beloved Granville shirt because for me the Granville is a fun style staple. Of course, I was also swayed by the fact that I have made 5 of them :-). Click here for all my Granville shirts makes.

Can I just say that I thoroughly enjoyed the challenge of having to style them everyday for a week. So much that by the time the 7 days were up, I still had an appetite for more. Big thanks to Hannah for taking the time to host this challenge. I was so inspired by the many people who participated and again my fabric and pattern wish list has grown!

So here are my ways of wearing the Granville shirt. Enjoy 🙂 Picture quality is not the best – some days there was better light than others.

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Keeping with light hues for a relaxed smart casual look.
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Sleek silhouette with a pencil skirt.
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Paired with a voluminous skirt. Need I say more?
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Paired with Butterick B5895 and a skinny bright belt for a pop of colour.
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My sleeveless chambray Granville with a vintage 80s skirt creates a simple look with light hues.  I chose the wider belt to match the shoes.
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Simply pairing with jeans and a slim belt works a treat.
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Tis the season for layers. The sleeveless Granville is ideal to fit under a blazer.
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Double Sewaholic pairing – my denim Hollyburn goes perfectly with the chambray Granville (quite possibly my favourite because of the blue on blue action 🙂
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Another double Sewaholic day here, decidedly autumnal. I got a lot of compliments when I was wearing this outfit
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 Another favourite combo. Can you guess why? 🙂 Skinny silver belt and silver brogues complete the look.

I reckon I did OK with my sartorial choices but next time I would like to be bolder in my styling :-). I learnt that button-down shirts like the Granville can be dressed up or down and can be styled in countless creative ways.

Are you the proud owner of a Sewaholic Granville (or any) button-down shirt? How do you prefer to style yours? I’d love to hear!

Thanks for stopping by.

Mwah!

hila