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I have been trying to do a bit more pattern drafting using Metric Pattern Cutting for Womenswear by Winifred Aldrich. Often I just get carried away with the idea that it is far more convenient to just cut into an envelope sewing pattern.
However, I have spent quite a lot of money towards books, classes and tools on pattern drafting so I must make more of an effort.
I decided I wanted to make a drop shoulder tee-shirt which was inspired by this Boden top.
As it happens I had an easy fit tee-shirt sloper from when I used Metric Pattern Cutting for Womenswear by Winifred Aldrich.
I drafted the sloper about 2 years ago so I decided to play around with that.
I started off with the basic tee-shirt sloper and I went on to follow the instructions for dropping the shoulder. The instructions don’t give you any further info regarding the sleeve pattern piece so I used my own logic by gently drawing an opposing curve with roughly the same amount taken off.
Eventually, I stumbled upon a great post<link here> which explains in great detail the technicalities of the dropped shoulder.
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I decided that at this point it would be a good idea to make a toile as I hadn’t made one yet. I used some jersey fabric that had been in my stash since 2014 – I bought it on EBAY during a late night browsing session (I have since managed to break that bad habit). I think it’s a viscose jersey which is very comfortable to wear. I also quite like the Argyl print :-).
For the neckband I measured around the neckline once I had finished and deducted 30% of the measurement – added my seam allowances and voila – a neckband that snaps perfectly against my body.
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My next step with this draft will be to create the yoke pattern pieces and to drop the shoulder a bit further. The next iteration will be colour blocked to see if the proportions work well.
This was a quick refreshing project as I was not having to think about the instructions or whether I may have missed out something – if I can hang on to that feeling it would help me focus on doing more drafting. Do you prefer drafting your own or find it easier to use patterns?
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felicia
June 21, 2017 7:06 amGreat link on sleeveheads, thanks. But 30% reduction for neck band?? I thought the standard was only one inch! Hmmmmm.
Hila
July 5, 2017 10:41 amI learnt the 30% trick from Ottobre Magazine and its always worked for me. I will try the 1″ reduction too. x
Wynn
September 15, 2017 1:07 pmThis web site link goes into a lot of detail on band lengths (hope I can paste it in) but there’s also 2 good links in the comments. http://www.makery.uk/2016/05/fo-ponte-linden-thoughts-on-achieveing-the-perfect-knit-neckband/
felicia
September 23, 2017 5:36 pmThank you Wynn. I checked it out and am now following that site.
jay
June 21, 2017 8:26 amLooking good! To answer your question, more of my makes are from patterns I draft than purchased patterns. The advantage is getting fit without frustration.
SomedaySewing
June 21, 2017 3:22 pmWow, good work! I also love your color combo of shoes, tights, and shirt!
Hila
July 5, 2017 10:40 amThanks. x
sewtonya
June 21, 2017 8:42 pmlooks good! I love anything pink 😀
Hila
July 5, 2017 10:40 amThank you!
Anne W
June 21, 2017 8:42 pmGood stuff, I should draft more but find myself reaching for commercial patterns because the results come in much faster!
tialys
June 22, 2017 9:02 amI would ‘prefer’ to draft things myself but things don’t always go well when I go ‘off piste’ so it’s better for my sanity all round if I use patterns. The Argyle print top looks great on you.
sewchet
June 27, 2017 4:58 pmMy problem is that I don’t have the imagination so tend to reach for a commercial pattern if I stumble upon one I like. I only self-draft if I have something specific in mind and can’t find a pattern that’s close enough to adapt.
Kim
July 5, 2017 10:53 amThe top looks great – and well done for sticking with the drafting. It definitely gets easier and more instinctive the more you do – and I really need to get back to it!