Burda 06/2016 #101C Maxified Dress

I made this dress using a birdy fabric that I had bought some time ago but was quite precious about it. The challenge was just perfect – it made me brave enough to cut into the birds :-). I had bought the viscose jersey from B&M Fabrics in Leeds.

I wanted a simple pattern with few seam lines to maximise the impact of the birds. Enter Burda 06/2016 #101C dress. Here is the line drawing which shows the simplicity of this pattern.

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The dress is meant to be a mini but I maxified it for full impact ūüôā Sewing it up was so fast and took less than an hour to sew up. I opted to sew a neckband for a t-shirt look.

The dress is so comfortable and I love it.

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Burda 06/2016 101C
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Burda 06/2016 101C

I can’t help but feel like lifting off and flying when wearing this dress. Thanks for this challenge Kat and Mel! Now, I need to go finish my Apron challenge make :-).

Thanks for stopping by!

Hila

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Named Talvikki Sweater

I made this after buying the pattern during the 12 days of Christmas sale. It was a bargain at £5. Here is the line drawing.

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My thoughts are that it is very quick to sew up and took one sitting to finish. The sleeves are very straight forward and there is no easing involved. The most challenging part for the beginner might be the mitred corners. The sizing was spot on and I didn’t make any alterations at all.

Personally I feel like the side vent is too high for a winter garment given that its supposed to keep me warm and cosy. With my poor circulation I would feel this gap acutely. In winter I wore it layered over thermal sweater underneath. The fabric is a wool jersey that I bought form Fabworks. It washes in the machine and I tumble dry it on low – that seems just fine. I have since washed this about 5 times now with no problems.

I plan on making this again in a cobalt blue wool jersey also from Fabworks but I will lengthen it while shortening the side vent.

The other issue was with my broad shoulder. though the fit is quite good there is some puddling under the collar and I had to do something like swayback adjustment to remove the pooling fabric.

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Talvikki Sweater – Vent depth
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Talviki Sweater – funnel neck detail
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Named Talvikki Sweater – Sleeve
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Pooling fabric at front neck base

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It simple minimalist chic and quite appealing on gray days. I was a bit ‘meh‘ about it when I finished it but surprisingly found myself pulling it on a lot. Which can only tell me that I like it :-).

I will report back on the ‘neck swayback’ adjustment in autumn when I get round to making the second one. Thanks for stopping by!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

Vogue V9112

I actually first made this toile in June 2015 – I know because I have a log of the picture of the muslin.

Vogue V9112 is an asymmetrical seam detail dress design by Marcy Tilton. Loose-fitting, pullover, sleeveless dress has single-layer, pleated, stand-up collar, seam detail, side pockets, bias neck and armhole facings, shaped hemline, and narrow hem. Wrong side shows on collar and hemline.

Here is the cover picture:

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….and the line drawing which shows all the lovely intricate seams:

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I was put off this pattern by how much ease it had after making the toile. I cut the size medium based on the pattern size recommendations (this was before  I figured out the lack of finished garment measurements). Needless to say it sat around in the UFO box for a while then I picked it up again determined to fix it as I liked it in principle. However, I was very ruthless in removing ease and ended up with something that barely resembles what the designer intended. I am okay with that though as I made it work for me.

I took it in by a lot on the sides and the back seam. I omitted the pockets as this was a toile. Although now, with hindsight, I should have just added the pockets since its turned into something wearable. Being linen – it if of course lovely to wear. It’s the sort of thing I will throw on when its nice and hot and I want to be unfettered.

I will  be giving the pattern another go definitely Рin linen again maybe with some Sashiko embroidery on one of the curved pieces.

 

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The original size was quite baggy on me.
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Vogue V9112 Gathered curved hem
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V9112 Collar detail

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Vogue V9112

The final result is something much more fitted at the bust and loose-fitting everywhere else. I finished the armholes with bias binding. The only thing I need to change now is the colour – I am thinking of dyeing it a deep violet colour.

Verdict – worthy of a second shot at it because despite the fit issues (based on personal preferences only) I still like it. I do need to remember to be careful when cutting it out as it is all cut single layer – I got away with it because I was using a plain solid fabric but with directional fabric I would have messed up.

Thanks for stopping by and until next time, happy sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

Ramblings….

Gratitude

This weekend saw some delightful weather in Yorkshire which prompted me to get busy in the garden. Actually something else prompted me- apart from my love of gardening. Little person number 3 who is 4yrs old had to have his tonsils and adenoids removed. The operation was on a Friday in March. It went well and I had to stay overnight with him as they needed to monitor his oxygen levels. Being in a hospital for 48 hours and surrounded by illness especially in young children (the ward we stayed in had quite a few long-term patients). It gives one pause for thought to appreciate how lucky one is to have healthy children and indeed to be healthy enough to not be in and out of the hospital. It’s something that is easy to take for granted. During the night as I slept on the cot bed next to my son’s bed, I couldn’t help but think of the stress and anxiety I felt in the lead up to, during and after the operation – seeing your little one ¬†knocked unconscious and slump down as if all life has been snuffed out of them is a test of fortitude. Readers I am not a crier (except when I am pregnant and hormonal) but I did in that moment. As I was struggling to sleep, I kept thinking how incredibly privileged we are here in the UK to have the NHS. The mere fact that I didn’t have to worry about whether I could afford for my son to have an operation for¬†his sleep apnea shouldn’t be taken for granted. I was vigilant in thanking the staff for looking after us and wrote a letter saying as much. I am proud that my taxes and National Insurance contribute to such a vital service. It’s not perfect but still worth it. Thinking about it while I was there I see it like this – the NHS is like a firefighter who saves you from a fire but while he/she is carrying you out of the burning building your head gets bumped against the door frame; yes your head hurts but at least you didn’t die in the fire. With that in mind I left the hospital with a firm resolve to involve myself in any Save the NHS campaigns.

Knitting

In other news Brooklyn Tweed ¬†released their Winter 17 lookbook a while back and I am smitten with the Kirwin here. Perhaps it is the colour that calls to me but I think it’s a lovely design. When I get round to it, I will probably try to go for the same deep red the model is wearing.

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Wish List

I also came across the McCall Pattern YouTube channel and saw this video with some of their winter releases.

Isn’t it funny when you don’t notice a pattern until you see it on someone in motion? The¬†Paco Peralta long tuxedo jacket appealed to me. They are now on¬†my wish list for when Vogue next go on sale in the USA. I am lucky that my FIL visits us twice a year and he is happy to be a sewing pattern mule ūüôā

TV Shows

….well The Collection was a major letdown and that is all I will say about that. Thank goodness I was always knitting when I watched it otherwise I’d feel like I wasted my time. I have heard good things about The Crown – and though I am not a fan of the monarchy – I think I will use a Netflix free month to watch it¬†, then cancel Netflix. If there are any other good things to catch on Netflix please let me know – because I intend to ‘sweat the asset‘ as they say in accounting speak. In more distressing news – I heard that GBBO is moving to Channel 4 and apparently there is a strong possibility that Sewing Bee will go as well since it’s the same production company that makes both shows. Only Paul Hollywood is ¬†moving with the Bake Off – apparently the others have decided to stay loyal to the Beeb. Though Bake Off was getting a tad annoying for me – I am not sure I like the idea of it moving to C4 ¬†– can you imagine all the product placement and the sponsored weeks? Things change I suppose.

Reading

I have been reading Outlander again Рthe first time I read them I  was in a (Jamie) frenzy so this time I am taking my time with it and savouring it (Jamie). I have decided to be more proactive with my reading list in 2017 and will be making a list of 12 books I want to read. I have been wanting to re-read all the classics I love like Pride & Prejudice, Jane Eyre etc. I think I will make 2017 the year of the Classic book for me.

Loosing it

My oldest started high school in September and its been hard to realise that I have very little control over what he does. High school is so different to primary school ¬†and I am finding navigating it quite challenging. I have joined the PTA and a couple of¬†parent organisations there so I can learn what’s what in high school.¬†In fact, I recently went to my first ever parents evening in high school. It was chaos of the first order. To start with my darling hadn’t bothered to make any appointments for me (their system has the kids collecting the appointments) so I had to wait till a teacher had a free spot. Each slot is 5 mins in theory , however I discovered that on average it took about 15 mins each so all the teachers were so far out of schedule that it didn’t matter anymore. I also found, much to my amusement as I had to wait for 3 parents ahead of me to see the Math teacher, that the teacher more or less repeated the same stuff to each of us. I went by myself to the event, whereas almost everyone else had brought the OH and high school child in tow. Hence I had the luxury of listening in on conversations in a quietly unobtrusive way. It was fun – I havent had the opportunity to people watch in a long time. Anyhow ¬†– patience is not my strong suit so I abandoned it all after seeing 5 of the 11 teachers. I figured if there was something very wrong with my son’s progress they would get in touch with me. I nearly fainted though when I got back home and was mulling over the fact that I will have to do this every year. Then it hit me. My other 4 are 3 years apart. So there will come a time when ALL 4 OF THEM ARE IN HIGH SCHOOL at the same time!!! And I will have to do parents evening for the 4 of them. 4 kids x 11 subjects = 44 x 5 minute (in theory but really closer to 15 minutes) slots!!!! I had to sit down when it hit me. Many choice swear words swirled about in my head.

On that note..thanks for coming by.

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

 

Petersham ribbons – an expansion post

My last post on the self-drafted skirt led to this post on petersham. Naomi asked me to expand on petersham ribbon and I said I’d do a post since my reply was getting long.

But first this:

The first time I used ‘petersham’ I had actually been sold grosgrain. Since I had asked the shop assistant who very nicely showed it to me – I just assumed I had the petersham that I had read of. I recall even asking if it would curve and she said yes. As I was sewing, it remained suspiciously straight but I reasoned that maybe it had to be worn before it does its thing. However, after wearing the skirt¬†a couple of times with no change in the shape of the ‘petersham’, I started considering the possibility that it wasn’t me who had made a sewing mistake. Continue reading

Early 2017 Springwatch

Hello,

This past weekend presented itself with some lovely weather so I was out on Sunday in the garden – cleaning the greenhouse, sowing seeds, etc. The etc includes taking in the beautiful spring sights.

I don’t know about you but I love the morning after a light shower. The flowers have the droplets clinging on to their delicate petals and its a lovely thing to see. I took these pictures using OH’s phone and I was rather¬†impressed. Continue reading

McCalls M7430 Pattern Review

Hello everyone,

I am so behind with my blogging – though its February I still am blogging things from last year – still better late than never.m7430_a

I purchased this pattern during a half price sale around September last year and got around to sewing this dress up in December.

 

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McCalls M7430

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Pattern Description: Misses’ Knit Side-Panel Dresses with Yokes

McCalls M7430 is a fitted pullover knit dress with side panels (no side seams). It has a front and back yoke with neckline variations. The neck variation is a bound, round neckline or a turtleneck. The hem variation is a shaped hem or a straight hem. The dress may be made sleeveless, three-quarter sleeve or long sleeve.

Pattern Sizing

Pattern sizing combinations are A5(6-14) and E5(14-22). I cut out a size 10 based on finished garment measurements and I thought it was not too far off the mark ease-wise.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

I made view D, using a black contrast stretch pleather with a pink and black cloque fabric. And it looked like what I was expecting based on the pattern cover.

 Were the instructions easy to follow?

I read through the instructions before embarking on this project and they were huge easy to follow diagrams accompanying the written instructions making this beginner friendly. This is a relatively simple dress to make anyway. It scores more points on the beginner friendly scale as there is a YouTUbe sew along by Anita Design . You can’t do much better that! If you don‚Äôt like reading instructions it’s worth checking that out.¬†

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like patterns with interesting seam lines. This has princess seams at the front combined with a front yoke as well which gives plenty of colour blocking options. There are endless possibilities.

Fabric Used

I bought the main fabric during SewUpNorth in November last year. It is a bold black & cerise jacquard blister ponte¬†(cloque). I have since found out that composition is viscose, polyester¬†&¬†spandex (which explains why it’s so comfortable). It has a beautifully-soft handle and a firm stretch with good recovery across the width and length of the fabric. This is the same fabric I used for my Lady Skater Dress <link here>.

What really drew me to the fabric was the easy flamboyance of the vibrant rococo-style pattern. In terms of fabric care: I machine washed at 30¬įC and tumble dried as normal.

For the contrast, I teamed it with fabric I already had in my stash from Leeds Market. The stretch pleather was bought to make leggings but I am glad I didn’t make leggings with it. I didn’t want stretch pleather on my neck so I used what little black ponte I had for the upper body. Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough of the black ponte for the side panels.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I took in the princess seams at the waist line to reduce a swayback issue. Swayback is a standard alteration for me but I skipped it on this because I had princess seams down my back to work with. Though for future makes I will do the adjustment on my paper pattern.

There is a little more ease across the upper back than there should be for a fitted dress- it was also slightly roomy for me around the bust area where I took in about 1‚ÄĚ in total.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I am making this again for sure. Its easy to both make and wear. Comfortable and practical. I would definitely reccommend it.

Here’s a tip. The back of the dress is almost identical to the front so much so that when sewing it up its easy to mix up the pattern pieces unless if you make sure to mark them ‚ÄstI didnt and honestly will never not mark them again!

And another thing; my biggest issue was trying to get the sleeve head lines to line up with the yoke. My initial preference would have been to make this in a stripey main fabric. However, I realised that I had a bit of trouble with a solid colour Рimagine trying to line up stripes! It is possible but its something to bear in mind when cutting out especially if one is fussy about perfect pattern matching.  

Conclusion:

It’s a good basic wardrobe staple.¬†I may make a more summery one at some point with a shorter length, normal collar and no sleeves . this dress was on the shorter side ‚Äď its fine for me but if you like more covereage there, pay attention to the finished garment length measurements before cutting so you can add length. I recommend McCalls M7430 if you are looking for a dress that is¬† well-fitting and easy-to-make. Alternatively, shorten it to make turtleneck top.

Final point about the dress: if made in one solid color, the detail of the princess seam and yoke seam is lost which would be a shame. So if you make this I highly recommend using contrasting fabrics. I also I love the slimming effect of the contrasting side panels (especially when black is used like I did for mine) Рbut any dark colour will have a similar effect.

Many thanks for stopping by my little corners of the interwebs. Until next time, happy sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

 

The Lilian Dress by Pattern Review

Hello everyone,

I am super excited to share this post with you as part of a blog tour for the newly released Lilian Top from Pattern Review. When Deepika reached out and¬†asked me to participate, I needed to see the pattern first and honestly I was hooked. Cap sleeves and a yoke are some of my favourite features so I was like “yes count me in. Plus I also loved the story behind the design. Here is an except from the designer Deepika:

Ever since I read about Lillian Weber, the amazing woman who sewed 1000 dresses to donate to Dresses for Africa, I’ve been yearning to do something to support this great cause. Dresses for Africa is an organization which not only clothes little girls in Africa, they do lots of other projects there, like building wells and community centers to improve lives of people in villages in Africa. And that is why I am dedicating this pattern to Lillian, hence the name. 20% of all sales from this pattern will be donated to Dresses for Africa. So when you buy this pattern, you too are joining me in this cause.

I read about Lillian Weber and I was so moved by her story that even though I was given this pattern for free I decided to make a donation to Little Dresses for Africa. Even if you are not interested in the pattern please read up on Lillian Weber Рits not often I come across such a such a positive and inspirational message.

Ok. So the Lillian pattern comes as a dress and top. It is described as a knit top or an a-line dress with a V-Neck Yoke and cap sleeves. I selected  the dress because I wanted something I could wear with tights and boots. I loved this pattern so much I made two dresses, one after the other. The beauty of this pattern that it sews up real quick.

The PDF went together beautifully. At only 16 pages, its ready to cut very quickly. The directions are quite concise and even beginners would feel confident to tackle it. There is even a Youtube tutorial on the trickiest part – the neck binding. The instructions have been very well thought out keeping this a very simple and quick to make pattern. I cant stress how quickly this sews up.

For my first one I knew I wanted colour blocking.  I used my colour wheel to select what are called split complimentary colours Рchoosing burnt orange as my main colour then the split complimentary colours are the 2 either side of its compliment Рdeep blue and apple green. I chose blue for the yoke because of the striking contrast with the orange.

For my second one I used some grey ponte and lace bonded ponte that has been in my stash for far too long. Actually all these fabrics had been stashers for far too long (stasher is a noun I use for fabrics that has been in the stash for over 6 months). So yay for stash busting :-).

I drafted the poofy long sleeve lengthening the cap sleeve to the desired length – in my case it had to fit the half meter length of bonded lace ¬†ponte. Once I had the length , I then cut and spread at 5 evenly spaced lines inserting about 4″ in total.

Constructionwise ,I stabilised my shoulder seam with fusible bias tape. I have found that this is the next best thing to twill tape for shoulder stabilisation on knits. I have used clear elastic and after a dozen washes and driers it begins to get slack.fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-635fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-625fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-622fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-621fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-669fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-668fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-667fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-617fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-616fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-651fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-645fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-655fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-555fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-538fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-579lilian-topfran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-572fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-590fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-595fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-594fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-521fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-524fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-528fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-558

I can easily see myself making loads more of these especially since I have seen some fantastic versions by the other seamsters on the blog tour Рthe possibilities are endless. There are plans to make a couple of summery ones Рam thinking of lengthening to maxi and sleeveless..it has a seventies vibe to it no?

Thank you for stopping by, tell me which you like better the grey lace on or the colour blocked one? Oh and here it is in (wobbly) action..

A Blog Tour

Want some inspiration? These talented seamsters posted about Lillians on their blogs this week, so be sure to check them out.

Oct. 24th Jstarr4250 (Julie)

Oct. 25th Sue Parrott – Blog – http://sue-parrott.blogspot.com/

Oct. 26th GoodbyeValntino (Sarah) – Blog – http://www.goodbyevalentino.com/

Oct. 27th ecs81 (Eryn) – Blog – http://www.stylesewme.com/

Oct. 28th creatingitgap (Margo) – Blog – http://creatinginthegap.ca

Oct. 29th beanchor (Bianca) – Blog – http://thanksimadethem.blogspot.com/

 Until next time РHappy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila