Sleeveless Peplum Blouse BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114 #burdachallenge2018

BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B

Here is a pattern that I like so much I made several of them in succession! I like the simple look and feel of the pattern. It is something that I have had traced for almost 2 years but never got round to making it. It seems I have made up for that.

Sleeveless Peplum Blouse 07/2015 #114

Sleeveless Peplum Blouse 07/2015 #114

I have the tops in this Youtube video here

So I made it in the John Kaldor Lizzano sateen fabric first. The John Kaldor was something I fell for when my friend Ali (akathimberlina) showed hers on IG and I quickly bought from an online shop. Unfortunately, I can’t remember the name of the shop. Its beautiful vibrant fabric that I used to make a shirtdress the M6696 shirtdress and used leftovers to make some this top.

I managed to sew this out of just under a meter of fabric. The rest was used to make a sash.

BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B

The instructions tell you to insert an elastic on the waist but opted not to do that as I found (much to my surprise) that I like the free boxy look.

Instead of sewing the armhole bias binding in the round, here is what I did:

After finishing the neckline I sewed up the shoulder seams. Then sewed the armhole binding in the flat. Next, I sewed the side seams. I fell like this was far easier and neater than sewing in the round.

 

So when it came time to think about my #makenine2018 I knew that the barkcloth would look amazing in this pattern and I did not hesitate to cut into it. I love it!

BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B

I also had some linen left over from the Hollyburn skirt I made a couple of years ago and it was just enough to make this top too. Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures but you can see it on my Youtube channel at the link above.

And then I tried the longer non-peplum version of the top but with a few twists, i.e. adding a knit cuff neckline on a woven like I learnt when I made the Merchant and Mills Tee for my husband. It did quite work out though because I forgot to not stretch out the knit cuffing. I am so used to stretching it slightly when sewing but I needn’t have done it with this one so. It does do a bit of a puddle but never mind. The John Kaldor fabric is so comfy against the skin. I barely had 3/4m left from when I made the Sheath Dress.

Alterations

The line drawing shows that the back has a CB seam which means cutting 2 back pieces. I only did that with the first one. Subsequent ones were cut on the fold. It makes no difference at all because the CB is straight.

Size traced: 38.

Verdict – Definitely, a great top that I have no doubt I will come back to again and again. I had a think about which one is my favourite and………..its…………

Making my first print at The StitchRoom Sewcial, Loughborough University, June 2018. Picture courtesy of Lucy Regan, SewEssential.co.uk

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

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Cowl Neck Top 01/2017 #119 #burdachallenge2018

This was another unplanned make for my #burdachallenge2018. The idea for this developed after meeting the fabric. SO I will start with the fabric. This is a beautiful shiny viscose jersey with the most beautiful drape – it is like a liquid gemstone. I picked it up from Fletchers Fabrics in Leeds while shopping with my friend Eleanor. I bought 1.5m without any idea of what to make with it. It was only when I was shooting my Youtube fabric haul video that I realised what this fabric could become.

The pattern is from the Jan 2017 issue of BurdaStyle. Here is the line drawing:

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119

And here is the style picture 

The recommended fabric is silk jersey in order to achieve the exaggerated cowl neck. The instructions were easy to follow. The neck is finished in an ingenious way IMO. I handstitched the shoulder yoke facing as I didn’t want to topstitch. The sleeves are set in which is a little tedious to do on jersey fabrics but worth it in the end.

It came together quickly. The little bralet is a gem of a pattern as well. I used rainbow foldover elastic because I like it. The pattern calls for cutting out strips of fashion fabric otherwise. Technically this is the first bra I have sewn :-). I am looking forward to whipping up more of the bralets using scrap fabrics.

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top – The bralet on its own is a great pattern with a good fit.

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top Rainbow foldover elastic
Interior view of the back.
Handstitched inner shoulder yoke facings.
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top

I cut my usual Burda 38 but I felt like I could have gone down a size on this which is unusual.

Verdict – a great stylish pattern with the deep cowl. I think I could have done a better job with styling it though. I feel this was designed to be tucked in but in my pictures, I didn’t do that. It does make a difference to how the top looks. Its a lovely top though I doubt I shall be making another one any time soon – I might try it again in size 36.

Thanks for stopping by!

 

 

 

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

3 X BurdaStyle Magazine 09/2010 #121A #burdachallenge2018

Ever since I sewed up the turtleneck top from Burdastyle 09/2010 in 2016, I have been planning more variations in my head. You see, this top pattern is so easy to sew up and comfy to wear as it doesnt have a neck seam. Here is the line drawing:

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Burda 09/2010 #121A

 

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Seamless neckline from my first 2016 version

 

To be honest with you I could waffle on but there really isn’t much more to add about this pattern that I haven’t already said here. So here are pictures of the three latest ones which also fulfilled my March #burdachallenge2018 goals.

BurdaStyle 09/2010 #121 – This is a crepe jersey that I picked up from a fabric swap at SewUpNorth
BurdaStyle 09/201 #121 – Fabric is a viscose jersey from Fabworks Mill Shop
BurdaStyle 09/2010 #121 – Quite possibly my favourite made of a viscose jersey that I bought from B&M Fabrics in Leeds Market.

So these have been in heavy rotation especially for layering in the colder months. Its been getting a bit warmer so for now they have been put aside until September. Isn’t it lovely to find a TNT pattern? I now have 5 of these 🙂

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Burda 05/2016 Bat Sleeve Dress #115B

This is another dress I made specially for a holiday to the seaside. Its from the May 2016 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. The style is called a bat sleeve dress. It may not be everyone’s cup of tea but I was intrigued by this pattern enough to make it.The pictures didn’t really do anything for me but it was the line drawing that grabbed me:

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BurdaStyle 05/2016 #115B

 

I have made it in ponte before here.The instructions were quite good – though this is very simply constructed dress made up of 2 pieces (front and back) and a neckband. You just have to finish the arm flaps before draping them over each other and securing with the neck-band.

I used a viscose jersey – very drapey and perfect for my purposes. I wanted something akin to a beach cover-up. Easy to to pop on and off. It did the job admirably! Here it is in action.

I definitely see more capelet dresses in the future. Its so quick and fast to sew up too.

Thanks for stopping by and until next time-

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

#burdachallenge2018 January Round up

Welcome to the first of many #burdachallenge2018 round up posts! Each month I will be posting a digest where hopefully you can get amazing sewing inspiration and ideas. Allons-y!
Chris reposted a very useful post about tracing BurdaStyle patterns here: #Burdachallenge 2018: Tracing patterns – a piece of cake!

It is quite interesting to see how she does it as it is different to how I trace. Given that she is a pro at using BurdaStyle I am going to be trying out her method and will let you know how I get on. How do you trace your BurdaStyle patterns? Let me know in the comments down below.

This is how I have been tracing in this video I made last year: Beginners Guide to Using BurdaStyle Patterns.

Anne who blogs at The Compulsive Seamstress sewed up lovely tops: Red Monday & When a Door Closes, Open a Window! & The Burda Challenge 2018

Diane  (Dream.Cut.Sew) has made some beautiful garments – a skirt and a top: Modified Burda Style Cosy Winter Skirt

Eleanor (NelNanandNora.wordpress.com) sewed up a yoga top from the January 2018 issue here Sewing Hope: My Story

Sew Artisan made a stunning pussybow dress with tutorial post too!: Burda Style Pussybow Dress Project 

Meg at BurdaStyle.com has made the leggings from the Jan 2018 issue: Meg’s Magazine Mash Up 01/2018: Part 3

Chris aka SaidDoneChris is an amazing Burda pro: Tops, tops and more tops! A mixed entry for #burdachallenge2018  & Burdastyle 1/2018 #116: Dramatic Sleeve Blouse

Ooboop has made a Red glitter dress with bell sleeves

@ingrid.artur shared how she uses Trello to organise her BurdaStyle sewing list. Great idea!

Meg wrote a Burda Challenge Feature: Melissa Fehr. A great read.

On IG I shared my collection of Burdas and invited others to post their collections too and it was amazing – here is a selection of some of them. The stories that the collectors shared were the best part. Reading about the connections people have with their magazines was awe inspiring. One collector has a collection from May 1968 inherited from her grandmother.

View this post on Instagram

Do you want to see my collection 😶? It's hidden behind a curtain in what used to be my mom's room. They belonged to my grandma. The oldest one is from 1968 and there's a good pile of #80s crazyness as well but the drafting details are always awesome.The new ones, my addition to The Collection, are all over the place🐒. The chunk missing is on my bed. I like to "read them" before I go to sleep. Old or new, there are always at least 2-3 things I want to sew from each of them! I have started posting the contents in my Isntragram Stories. The old ones are too good to be enjoyed just by myself and I need to sell/donate/find a good home for the plus size magazines because sadly I don't have any plus size ladies to sew for anymore 🙁 . #patternaddict #patterncollection #Burdafangirl #Burdacollection #burdachallenge2018

A post shared by The Heiress (@heiressy) on

#burdachallenge2018 isn’t just about the magazine patterns! @Olypateli reminds us that paper patterns count too 🙂 (I know I have loads of those too!)

Don’t just take my word for it, check out the #burdachallenge2018. Trust me, scrolling through the #burdachallenge2018 feed is the perfect cure to a dragging afternoon :-).

Looking forward Chris shared a BurdaStyle Feb 2018 preview post here: #burdachallenge2018: A quick review of Burdastyle 2/2018

And finally, I loved what Eleanor had to say about sewing with BurdaStyle

I’d love to hear from you too. If you have a post you’d like me to add in the next roundup please drop me an email through the Contact Me page.

Thanks so much for stopping by. Until next time, Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

PS. Goes without saying that this is not a sponsored post. I just really love BurdaStyle patterns and the sewcial conviviality that comes with engaging in creative pursuits as a group.

 

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #105 Activewear Edition

I actually made this outfit in January 2017 (Yay for actually sewing a BurdaStyle magazine of the same month!).

Athletic Tank Top 01/2017 #105

Tha fabric for the top is a self wicking knit which has some stretch. The stretch is quite minimal and not like a t-shirt jersey. Unfortunately, I don’t know its exact specifics as it was part of a bundle of fabrics from MinervaCrafts that I had won on IG in 2016. It is very comfortable to wear and supports my bust well.

The top is made up of 8 pieces – nice seam detail to look at but a pain in the neck to deal with. First of all, when tracing it I forgot to write in the seam numbers that tell you which edge to join where and had to rip out twice and cut more pattern pieces (I was using an overlocker). Eventually, I got my head around it and it worked out nicely.  I even put in a fancy neon green exposed zip. The zip is purely decorative, in my opinion, as I can easily pull this over my head without using the zip. The next time I make it I will omit the zip.

I really like this top because despite all the seam lines it is very comfortable. The upper half is self-lined so no overlock seams rubbing against my skin. Its fussy but well worth it.

 

Athletic Leggings 01/2017 #106B #106B

The fabric for the leggings is deep dark brown ponte roma with a shiny surface. I quite liked the angular seams and the high waist of these sporty leggings. Though fussy to sew up if you are trying to line everything up, I think they are worth the hassle. The pattern actually calls for zips at the ankle side seams. No thanks.

 

For both patterns, I cut the size 38 without any adjustments. I have worn both of these quite a lot over the last year, especially for yoga classes. The leggings are a tad too warm in summer but perfect when the weather is on the cooler side (on account of the ponte).

This outfit was/is a win for me – a great addition to my activewear collection!

Athletic Tank Top BurdaStyle 01/2017 #105

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time, Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

Burda Shift Dress 09/2015 #108

This is the project that made me realise a skill deficit; I had real problems lining this dress which made me set a 2017 new year resolution: to sew more lined garments.

I was attracted to this dress after seeing this picture.

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Burda Tank Dress 09/2015 #108 A/B

 

Sewing it was very easy. I cut a size 38 which is my Burda size. It is supposed to have front pockets by the princess seams but I couldn’t imagine using them – the dress is elegant and ruining the princess line with a bulky pocket? No, I wasn’t having it. I could have also added in-seam pockets at the side seam but I completely forgot. You know when you are sewing and everything is going swimmingly and the fabric is a pleasure to deal with – its easy to miss something.

The fabric was bought from Jacks Fabrics in Leeds Market. Unfortunately when I saw it they only had about 1.5 m (£3.80/meter) left which is a shame because I think I would have liked to make long coat out of this. The fabric is viscose wool mix which has a lovely textured hounds tooth pattern.

The shift dress is fitted at the bodice using dior darts (which are my new favourite darts now). It just skims the rest of my body being neither boxy nor tight. I like the boat neckline as well, it lends a Jackie O feel to the dress. I have styled it with a brooch as seen here on IG.

I initially thought that maybe that might make me look too air hostess’y but they do always look stylish so no problem there.

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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108
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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108 Collar
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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108 Detachable collar
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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108
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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108
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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108

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The lining is a bemberg in magenta which just feels luxurious against my skin and so worth the trouble I went to sew it. I ended up hand sewing the lining on to the armholes and neckline ( on the dress form) after several fails at ‘bagging the lining’. Determination and discipline got me through this because I knew if I moved on to the next project I wasn’t going to return to this for a really long time. So I doggedly finished it and its far from perfect. But I will learn to line it properly next time and will report back in autumn when I make another one in a glorious tartan :-).

Verdict – I will definitely be making another one. I like Burda patterns for their cheaper price point and how well they fit me as I had to make no adjustments at all to this. Still lining it was worth it as it fits like a dream and the luxurious feel of a dress gliding past your arms to settle on your shoulders is wonderful.

I’d love to make a colour block version like this MaxMara one here (RRP $650 btw):shift-dresscover_gal

Don’t you just love sewing for the options it gives to recreate very expensive looks?

As always, thanks for stopping by and until next time Happy sewing all!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

BurdaStyle Magazine 10/2014 #105 Cowl Neck Dress Pattern Review

Hello,

Let me preface this by saying that this is possibly my most favourite dress ever! Don’t believe me? Check out this IG video….

Continue reading

BurdaStyle Magazine:Turtleneck 09/2010 #121A

Hello everyone,

Today’s post is a super quick one to share a very simple top. I made this from an old Burda magazine that I bought on Ebay last year. Here is a picture of it

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Burda 09/2010 #121A

It so happened that I was looking for a simple roll neck pattern and before I went buying or drafting a new one – I decided to browse my growing Burda Magazine collection. So glad I did that because I had never registered this pattern before. I quite like that it doesnt have a neck seam – makes for faster sewing.

I had 1m of John Kaldor Isabelle wool jersey that I bought in June. I just managed to fit this pattern and I was left with very satisfying slivers of fabric that indicate a most efficient use of the yardage! blog-pictures-coco-etc-276blog-pictures-coco-etc-277

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Back view
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Seamless neckline
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love this roll neck
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The sleeves are extra long
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I love this fabric so much – I bought 2 more meter in this colour for a dress.

I love this fabric and I have bought 2 more meters of this colour to make a dress.

Construction wise it comes together very quickly. I did not make any alterations to the pattern. I didn’t finish the roll neck edge as my fabric doesn’t unravel. I set in the sleeves and though it wasn’t the best job – it doesn’t look too bad. I finished the hems with a narrow zigzag. The sleeves are meant to be longer so that they have a ruched effect – love that.

I want to make another in black and gunmetal grey. Its a great foundation piece for my wardrobe.

So this makes my 12th Burda make this year and my goal has been reached. Here’s to more Burda makes from me in 2017!

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

BurdaStyle Magazine 12/2014 #114B Seamed Jersey Turtleneck Top

Hello everyone,

Here is another Burda make as I race towards the end of the year in which I must make at least 12 Burda garments. I do really like BurdaStyle Magazine and I am keen to get a 12 month subscription.

This is from the 12/2014 issue and it was the featured sewing course pattern which is great because its the only one that Burda will hold your hand and walk you through the entire process (very nice of them). Here is the line drawing.

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BurdaStyle 12/2014 #114B

I cut my usual size 38 and it fits perfectly (a good reason why I am keen of getting my subscription on for 2017). I made 3 changes:

  1. The sleeve head. It was HUGE – I mean incredibly poofy and combined with my broad shoulder I looked somewhat ….odd. I reduced it by a good 2″ to get to this ‘poof’ which IMO is a good balance. The rest of the sleeve did not disappoint – am quite enamoured with the bishop style sleeve and exaggerated cuff.
  2. I cut the back on a fold instead of having a centre back seam.
  3. I omitted the zip – my ponte has enough stretch to go over my head without a zip plus I wasn’t keen on the idea of a zip against the back of my neck – its a very sensitive area for me and one of the reasons why my hair is almost always tied.

Fabric wise I used a ponte knit that was left over from a Marfy dress I made (post coming soon). I am glad I had enough of this left over as I love this colour! Its a medium weight ponte. The instructions call for stabilising the princess seams but I didn’t do that since my fabric was sturdy enough. I have worn this at least 3 times already and its holding up just fine. I did stabilise the shoulder seams though ( a standard procedure for me with all my knit projects).

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Burdastyle 12/2014 #114B Top
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Back view

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Overall its a good pattern and I like that its easily adaptable into a sheath dress or add a peplum and it becomes a cute flirty dress. Go sleeveless, remove the polo neck and it will work in summer. Yes – there will definitely be more of this pattern in the future.

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Burda 05/2016 Bat Sleeve Dress #115B

Hello everyone,

Despite the cold weather in October I made a dress from the May edition of BurdaStyle Magazine. The style is called a bat sleeve dress. It may not be everyone’s cup of tea but I was intrigued by this pattern enough to make it top of my trace and make list. The pictures didn’t really do anything for me but it was the line drawing that grabbed me:

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BurdaStyle 05/2016 #115B

 

It almost looks like a cape doesn’t it? Anyway I had bought this winter storms ponte from B&M Fabrics which I thought could work well as a autumnal dress that could be layered. It’s that time of the year where I start to think a lot about layering things so this seemed like a good candidate. I pictured it with different colour roll neck jumpers underneath.

The instructions were quite good – though this is very simply constructed dress made up of 2 pieces (front and back) and a neckband. You just have to finish the arm flaps before draping them over each other and securing with the neck-band.

Which leads to the only fly in the ointment with the otherwise easy & quick dress to make – the neckband is too big. I used the Burda dimensions and it sort of stands away from the body. I tried hand sewing it down but I needed a do over which I wasnt willing to spend time on.

This tiny issue aside – it’s a good neutral addition to my wardrobe. I wasnt too sure about the fabric when I bought it – but I got it because of my tendency to get bright and bold colours – its confusing but I am trying to diversify IYSWIM. Anyhow I digress…pictures…..

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Burda 05/2016 #115b
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Back View

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Quite like that cape-y look on the shoulder

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Erm………I know……Fine! I will fix it!

Worn with a Sewaholic Renfrew top

Will I make it again? – Undecided. Its warm when I layer it and its very comfortable – a good candidate for a Christmas day dress perhaps? I cant help but feel that maybe with a lighter weight jersey this could be truly lovely….. We will have to see.

So this is number 9 of my Burda Challenge. I have to make 12 Burda things by the end of the year to justify a subscription in 2017. So here’s hoping I can get 3 more done by then :-).

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

BurdaStyle Boho Blouse 04/2016 #107

Hello,

This top is the very last of my summer sewing. I had forgotten about it because I finished it some time in September when it was getting cool such that I didn’t even think to wear it. Its from the May 2016 issue – an excellent issue that has a lot of styles I am smitten with.

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Boho Blouse – I liked the collar and placket detail on this top

I sewed it using a lightweight cotton from B and M fabrics in Leeds market. I really liked the circular tile effect plus the blue overtones. For the contrasting placket and sleeve bands I used some leftover fabric from the most recent McCalls M6044. I thought the colours worked well together.

I cut a size 38 which is my Burda size and is always quite spot on. It sewed up very quickly – though I used french seams for a neat inside. The cotton has a slightly stiff handle to it which I hope will soften over time.

This took me longer to finish because after I put the bodice together I wasn’t sure whether the style would be something I’d like. But now that I finished it and tried it on I was quite pleasantly surprised that I like it, especially the sleeves. Perhaps it is the colour that blinds me but I am looking forward to spring 2017 when I can start wearing it in earnest. In future I will make it using something like a Tana lawn and make it tunic length.

I have styled it with my Birkins – they seem to go with everything! Pictures….

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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Collar back view
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French seams
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Sleeve band details

 

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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107
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Burda 04/2016 #107

Now, I will stride forward towards autumn.

Thanks for stopping by and have a great weekend. I’ll be back on Sunday 🙂

Peace and love,

Hila