Another Giselle Maxi Dress for Indie Pattern Month 2017

July is Indie Pattern Month over at The Monthly Stitch. Its a month set aside for celebrating indie patterns. I always the challenges set by Kat and Mel and this year is no exception. Week 1 is dresses and I made yet another Giselle maxi dress using fabric bought from my first Yorkshire Spoolette meet up in Feb 2016 <link here>. Tangentially, I have used all but 1 of the fabrics I bought then and that’s great for me :-). I digress, lets get to it ……..

Can I just start off by saying that I love this dress! OK. So when Kat and Mel announced the themes I was pleased to see that dresses were in Week 1. It didn’t take me long at all to decide on which indie pattern dress to make – Giselle by Kate and Rose Patterns.

I have made 3 of them ( here and here) before but none in a rayon challis fabric. The fabric is irresistibly soft and I  very nearly made pyjamas with it. It also gets double points for stash busting as it has been in the stash since Feb 2016 :-).

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Since I have sewn this before fitting was not an issue. I made the version with the under bust yoke but sleeveless. The sleeves and neckline were finished with cotton bias binding.

This is a quick dress to sew up. The skirt panels are basically rectangles that are gathered and sewn together. I always add in seam pockets to this pattern as it comes without pockets and that’s my only complaint (a very minor one 🙂). I finished my seams with the overlocker.

Its a loose fit easy to wear dress. Very swishy and its one of those dresses that always has me on my best posture. You know the sort of dress you feel like you are letting it down if you slouch or don’t stand proud :-).

Thanks for stopping by!

Peace and love,

Hila

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Burda Shift Dress 09/2015 #108

This is the project that made me realise a skill deficit; I had real problems lining this dress which made me set a 2017 new year resolution: to sew more lined garments.

I was attracted to this dress after seeing this picture.

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Burda Tank Dress 09/2015 #108 A/B

 

Sewing it was very easy. I cut a size 38 which is my Burda size. It is supposed to have front pockets by the princess seams but I couldn’t imagine using them – the dress is elegant and ruining the princess line with a bulky pocket? No, I wasn’t having it. I could have also added in-seam pockets at the side seam but I completely forgot. You know when you are sewing and everything is going swimmingly and the fabric is a pleasure to deal with – its easy to miss something.

The fabric was bought from Jacks Fabrics in Leeds Market. Unfortunately when I saw it they only had about 1.5 m (£3.80/meter) left which is a shame because I think I would have liked to make long coat out of this. The fabric is viscose wool mix which has a lovely textured hounds tooth pattern.

The shift dress is fitted at the bodice using dior darts (which are my new favourite darts now). It just skims the rest of my body being neither boxy nor tight. I like the boat neckline as well, it lends a Jackie O feel to the dress. I have styled it with a brooch as seen here on IG.

I initially thought that maybe that might make me look too air hostess’y but they do always look stylish so no problem there.

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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108
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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108 Collar
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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108 Detachable collar
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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108
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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108
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Burdastyle 09/2015 #108

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The lining is a bemberg in magenta which just feels luxurious against my skin and so worth the trouble I went to sew it. I ended up hand sewing the lining on to the armholes and neckline ( on the dress form) after several fails at ‘bagging the lining’. Determination and discipline got me through this because I knew if I moved on to the next project I wasn’t going to return to this for a really long time. So I doggedly finished it and its far from perfect. But I will learn to line it properly next time and will report back in autumn when I make another one in a glorious tartan :-).

Verdict – I will definitely be making another one. I like Burda patterns for their cheaper price point and how well they fit me as I had to make no adjustments at all to this. Still lining it was worth it as it fits like a dream and the luxurious feel of a dress gliding past your arms to settle on your shoulders is wonderful.

I’d love to make a colour block version like this MaxMara one here (RRP $650 btw):shift-dresscover_gal

Don’t you just love sewing for the options it gives to recreate very expensive looks?

As always, thanks for stopping by and until next time Happy sewing all!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

Named Talvikki Sweater

I made this after buying the pattern during the 12 days of Christmas sale. It was a bargain at £5. Here is the line drawing.

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My thoughts are that it is very quick to sew up and took one sitting to finish. The sleeves are very straight forward and there is no easing involved. The most challenging part for the beginner might be the mitred corners. The sizing was spot on and I didn’t make any alterations at all.

Personally I feel like the side vent is too high for a winter garment given that its supposed to keep me warm and cosy. With my poor circulation I would feel this gap acutely. In winter I wore it layered over thermal sweater underneath. The fabric is a wool jersey that I bought form Fabworks. It washes in the machine and I tumble dry it on low – that seems just fine. I have since washed this about 5 times now with no problems.

I plan on making this again in a cobalt blue wool jersey also from Fabworks but I will lengthen it while shortening the side vent.

The other issue was with my broad shoulder. though the fit is quite good there is some puddling under the collar and I had to do something like swayback adjustment to remove the pooling fabric.

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Talvikki Sweater – Vent depth
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Talviki Sweater – funnel neck detail
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Named Talvikki Sweater – Sleeve
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Pooling fabric at front neck base

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It simple minimalist chic and quite appealing on gray days. I was a bit ‘meh‘ about it when I finished it but surprisingly found myself pulling it on a lot. Which can only tell me that I like it :-).

I will report back on the ‘neck swayback’ adjustment in autumn when I get round to making the second one. Thanks for stopping by!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

SWAP2017: An Over and a Lower

My SWAP has 4 overs which are :

  1. Fitted shirt in shocking pink.
  2. Embroidered fitted top
  3. Knitted red and white jumper
  4. White tie back top
  5. A ‘rogue’ dress

For this post I am looking at the pink fitted shirt and the yellow maxi skirt.

Fitted Shirt

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Sewaholic Granville and I got back a long way. See here <link>. Its a tried and true patterns that I love.

I had already seen the shocking pink fabric at the Shuttle in Shipley before deciding on the SWAP colours. Once my colours were settled, I was forced to go back to The Shuttle (I want to be clear on this – I did NOT want to go to a fabric shop but in the spirit of SWAP I had to – I was a reluctant  fabric shopper – those other fabrics followed me home – I was reluctant but I am so proud of myself for my restraint). Luckily it was still there when I went back and I bought 3 meters of it. Its  a stretch cotton sateen that was interesting to work with.

I cant say its been my best sewing experience ever. I found that the sateen had a strong needle memory and I couldn’t unpick the fabric without creating a visual disturbance. I quickly caught on though and started using wonder clips instead of pins where necessary. I also needed to use a walking foot to prevent it stretching out as I sewed. It also why I opted not to topsticth the button placket.

Because of the stretch nature of the fabric it is very comfortable. Pictures do not do this fabric justice. Its is very bright pink. As in incredibly in your face unapologetic pink. It makes me happy.

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For the maxi skirt I used the skirt portion of the Anna dress. I love this pattern and have made it several times already. The fabric was hard to come by. I wanted a really bright sunshine yellow. I did something I haven’t done before – ordering loads of swatches. I must say that made me feel very grown up indeed. I eventually found the right colour and weight from an Ebay shop called (apologies in advance to any brexiters reading this) EuroFabrics. Its a very beautiful high quality stretchy crepe with viscose fabric that has a micro texture. It has a bit of give on the cross grain which makes for a very comfortable wear.

I sewed up the skirt but while checking fit I realised that I wanted pockets. I try to add pockets where I can in a way that doesn’t interfere too much with the design lines. Because this skirt is close fitting at the hip, in seam pockets would not have worked. So I decided to draft quasi-patch pockets that attach at the princess seams. I felt like this was the most sympathetic addition of pockets.

I still have the option of cutting out the thigh slit but as yet am undecided. I quite like it as is for now. Initially the plan was to add a narrow waistband but I didnt like after the initial basting – it made it even  more high waisted that I was envisioning. So it was Petersham ribbon to the rescue!!!  The only fly in the ointment , however is that I did think it needed lining but when I wore it for pictures – I could see my panty lines – as I grow older I get less keen on VPLs on my own self. I have since bought some lining to add which is an easy fix. I will only line the upper third of the skirt. The other option is to go commando when in this skirt and……. mmm……..again as I get older I am less keen on the whole going commando thing 🙂

Pictures…..

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SWAP2017 Granville Shirt and Anna Maxi skirt

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So here we are reader, the first 2 of my 11 SWAP2017 blogged. Whats next? The orange skirt I think….undecided

Thanks so much for stopping my little corner of the interwebs. Until next time,

Happy sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

Petersham ribbons – an expansion post

My last post on the self-drafted skirt led to this post on petersham. Naomi asked me to expand on petersham ribbon and I said I’d do a post since my reply was getting long.

But first this:

The first time I used ‘petersham’ I had actually been sold grosgrain. Since I had asked the shop assistant who very nicely showed it to me – I just assumed I had the petersham that I had read of. I recall even asking if it would curve and she said yes. As I was sewing, it remained suspiciously straight but I reasoned that maybe it had to be worn before it does its thing. However, after wearing the skirt a couple of times with no change in the shape of the ‘petersham’, I started considering the possibility that it wasn’t me who had made a sewing mistake. Continue reading

McCalls M7430 Pattern Review

Hello everyone,

I am so behind with my blogging – though its February I still am blogging things from last year – still better late than never.m7430_a

I purchased this pattern during a half price sale around September last year and got around to sewing this dress up in December.

 

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McCalls M7430

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Pattern Description: Misses’ Knit Side-Panel Dresses with Yokes

McCalls M7430 is a fitted pullover knit dress with side panels (no side seams). It has a front and back yoke with neckline variations. The neck variation is a bound, round neckline or a turtleneck. The hem variation is a shaped hem or a straight hem. The dress may be made sleeveless, three-quarter sleeve or long sleeve.

Pattern Sizing

Pattern sizing combinations are A5(6-14) and E5(14-22). I cut out a size 10 based on finished garment measurements and I thought it was not too far off the mark ease-wise.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

I made view D, using a black contrast stretch pleather with a pink and black cloque fabric. And it looked like what I was expecting based on the pattern cover.

 Were the instructions easy to follow?

I read through the instructions before embarking on this project and they were huge easy to follow diagrams accompanying the written instructions making this beginner friendly. This is a relatively simple dress to make anyway. It scores more points on the beginner friendly scale as there is a YouTUbe sew along by Anita Design . You can’t do much better that! If you don’t like reading instructions it’s worth checking that out. 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like patterns with interesting seam lines. This has princess seams at the front combined with a front yoke as well which gives plenty of colour blocking options. There are endless possibilities.

Fabric Used

I bought the main fabric during SewUpNorth in November last year. It is a bold black & cerise jacquard blister ponte (cloque). I have since found out that composition is viscose, polyester & spandex (which explains why it’s so comfortable). It has a beautifully-soft handle and a firm stretch with good recovery across the width and length of the fabric. This is the same fabric I used for my Lady Skater Dress <link here>.

What really drew me to the fabric was the easy flamboyance of the vibrant rococo-style pattern. In terms of fabric care: I machine washed at 30°C and tumble dried as normal.

For the contrast, I teamed it with fabric I already had in my stash from Leeds Market. The stretch pleather was bought to make leggings but I am glad I didn’t make leggings with it. I didn’t want stretch pleather on my neck so I used what little black ponte I had for the upper body. Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough of the black ponte for the side panels.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I took in the princess seams at the waist line to reduce a swayback issue. Swayback is a standard alteration for me but I skipped it on this because I had princess seams down my back to work with. Though for future makes I will do the adjustment on my paper pattern.

There is a little more ease across the upper back than there should be for a fitted dress- it was also slightly roomy for me around the bust area where I took in about 1” in total.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I am making this again for sure. Its easy to both make and wear. Comfortable and practical. I would definitely reccommend it.

Here’s a tip. The back of the dress is almost identical to the front so much so that when sewing it up its easy to mix up the pattern pieces unless if you make sure to mark them – I didnt and honestly will never not mark them again!

And another thing; my biggest issue was trying to get the sleeve head lines to line up with the yoke. My initial preference would have been to make this in a stripey main fabric. However, I realised that I had a bit of trouble with a solid colour – imagine trying to line up stripes! It is possible but its something to bear in mind when cutting out especially if one is fussy about perfect pattern matching.  

Conclusion:

It’s a good basic wardrobe staple. I may make a more summery one at some point with a shorter length, normal collar and no sleeves . this dress was on the shorter side – its fine for me but if you like more covereage there, pay attention to the finished garment length measurements before cutting so you can add length. I recommend McCalls M7430 if you are looking for a dress that is  well-fitting and easy-to-make. Alternatively, shorten it to make turtleneck top.

Final point about the dress: if made in one solid color, the detail of the princess seam and yoke seam is lost which would be a shame. So if you make this I highly recommend using contrasting fabrics. I also I love the slimming effect of the contrasting side panels (especially when black is used like I did for mine) – but any dark colour will have a similar effect.

Many thanks for stopping by my little corners of the interwebs. Until next time, happy sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

 

Sew It With Love Delia Top

Hello chums,

Today I am sharing my tester version of the Delia top which is a pattern that was released just before or after Christmas last year. I signed up when I saw that it had raglan sleeves.sew-it-with-love-patterns_delia-top_instructions

I decided that I wanted a peplum after I had cut out the hip length variation and saw no reason why I couldn’t add the peplum too :-).

I double-faced the peplum so I wouldn’t have any hemming to do. I also added cuffs to the long sleeves to avoid hemming. Sewing it up was quite easy and I thought the instructions were great making this a beginner friendly pattern.

The fabric has been in my stash for about 2 years now. I had bought it to make a Moneta dress but I fell out of love with the idea of an apple green Moneta. It’s a ponte knit with a lovely sheen. I used just under 1m to make this and my fabric is  57″ wide.

The hip length variation is not supposed to have a peplum – that is one of the 2 design changes I made. The other being the cuffs. In hindsight, I realise that I suck at pattern testing because I should have made it as it was supposed to and report back on that. I will do that in the future if I ever find myself pattern testing again.

Fit wise I thought it was true to size. I cut the size 10 based on my bust measurement and despite the wrinkles, it has a good fit. It’s also very comfortable. The one thing I will change though is the neckline. It’s a bit too high on me – I will lower it by about 1/2″.

I forgot to mention that this is not a sponsored post. I was given the PDF file for free but everything else was bought with my own money. There was no stipulation that testers had to blog about their make. I am sharing it because I like this top and I have been wearing it most weekends.

Pictures

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I like the subtlety of the peplum – I don’t think its too much
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I may need to size up the sleeves and that might reduce those drag lines…
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I need to lower the neckline

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Thank you so much for stopping by! Until next time Happy Sewing All!

Peace and love,

Hila

P.S. You can watch me prattling on about it below 🙂

Self Drafted Men’s Tee shirt

Hello chums,

One of the perks of enrolling on the pattern drafting class was that I had access to loads of drafting paper and a large spacious studio to work in. Once I finished my project I still had a few weeks left on the course and so I used that time to start drafting a T-shirt block for my OH.

Using Winifred Aldrich, I drafted an easy fitting t-shirt. It is a very quick draft – I think menswear might be easier to draft for than women’s because men don’t have as many curves? This is based on this one easy draft :-).

Personally I thought the neckline on the draft was too high and narrow  for something that is supposed to come over your head. But I didn’t remedy it immediately so I could see if my instinct was correct. Upon making the t shirt I was chuffed to see that I was correct – the neckline was far too high and narrow so I lowered it by 3/4″ at front and widened by 1/2″ at shoulder.

There was lot of ease on this t-shirt. OH complained that it was too much and so in a dramatic role reversal – I was pinning out the excess while he had to pose in front of a mirror and say when :-). He was eventually happy when I had taken out about 1.75″ (one and three-quarter inches) from the sides.

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The fabric is a really great quality cotton jersey that I bought from B&M Fabrics. Its nice and slightly thick with good stretch recovery. I used 1m which cost me £14/m – worth every penny for my loudest cheerleader.

OH had choice of neckband in either same fabric of contrast black cuffing – I think he made the right choice. I finished the neckband and hems using a twin needle. A lot of effort went into making him this t-shirt. Now that we have a block for him I expect that there will be a few more t-shirts in the future – he even mentioned screen printing his own graphics…….

He is very pleased with it and he wears every time its clean and available. One of my loosely defined goals this year is to sew more stuff for him – because- he is worth it 🙂

Thanks for stopping by and until next time Happy Sewing everyone.

Peace and love,

Hila

Simplicity S8222 Mimi G Jeans

Hello,

I made another pair of jeans in a ponte grey fabric. It’s the same ponte I used for my Marfy dress – its thick with good stretch recovery. This is my muslin of the popular Simplicity S8222 Mimi G pattern (which I picked up during the last half price sale). I have had a good experience with Mimi G patterns so I thought I’d give these a try. Here is the pattern cover:simplicity-sportswear-pattern-8222-envelope-front

They come in sizing for normal, average and curvy fit. I made the Size 10 average fit on the assumption that my booty is not what I’d call curvaceous (based on the cover picture of Mimi who is wearing a curvy fit) , but I was wrong . There was some gaping at the waist that I had to take out with 2 darts either side of the CB on the yoke. Next time I will try the curvy fit. Trying on the jeans to check fit is very important as gaping can be easily taken out before the waistband is applied.

Mimi has a YouTube sewalong that I used for this project <link here>. It was generally quite good but the fly insertion did not work that well for me. It’s not that the instructions weren’t clear – they were very clear – but it’s drafted such that the underside is so close to the CF seam that it’s slightly visible when zipped up (you can see it in the pictures). I dont have this issue with my Birkin flares. When I make them again I will have to figure out a fix for this.

Tangentially – the presence of a video sewalong makes this a great pattern for someone who is wary of sewing their own jeans because they think it’s too hard (I know I used to feel that way myself) or for beginners. The sewalong breaks it down into very easy to follow bits.

Though I was using ponte I did everything as if it was denim – i.e. topstitching everything and using a jeans post button. I skipped the belt loops though. For the pocket lining I used a denim chambray scrap from an Alder shirtdress I’d completed before starting the jeans.

My machine absolutely refused to topstitch the fly so after the 4th attempt I just let it be. I also struggled with the buttonhole – perhaps its the stretch fabric with insufficient interfacing. I interfaced using medium weight on one side of the waistband but maybe I needed to interface both sides.

Pictures-

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Simplicity s8222 Jeans – the zip is visible from this side.
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Simplicity S8222 I like the fit
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Topstitching …..like a BOSS 🙂
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The darts added to remove the gaping waist
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My machine made a dog’s dinner of that front fly topstitching
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Chambray pocket lining
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The buttonhole is also a bit of a dog’s dinner

Verdict:  I quite like this style of jeans and they turned into a wearable muslin. A tad too long but I quite like the ruche effect at the bottom. They go with a lot of things in my wardrobe as well. Will definitely be making another pair using a stretch denim and contrast mustard topstitching.

Until next time, Happy Sewing all!

Peace and love,

Hila

Marfy 3879

I made a Marfy pattern! Its a big deal for me because I have idolised Marfy patterns and Vogue Paris Original vintage patterns for a long time. I am yet to find a VPO pattern I can afford so I bought a Marfy pattern in lieu. Marfy are a small Italian pattern making company that releases a whole year’s collection of patterns around January. They have very unique and interesting designs but they come with no instructions or line drawings. After buying 3879 earlier this year I procrastinated as I honestly didn’t think I had the skill set to make it. I sat on it but I got tired of  my pity party so I reminded myself it wasnt heart surgery and got on with it!

Some background…..I ordered the pattern via email but it can be done over the phone as well. At the time that I ordered this particular pattern wasnt yet on the website. The website has a small selection of patterns to buy online but the catalog has over 200 designs in it. If the pattern you want is not on the site, it can be ordered via telephone or email. My orders from Marfy have both times arrived within 1 week of placing the order.

I made 2 for the Pattern Review One Pattern Many Looks competition. My review is below after the pictures.

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Pattern Description:
Trendy dress with curved-seam bodice emphasized by animal print on plain fabric.

Pattern Sizing:
Marfy size 42, 44, 46. I used size 42.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
This was my first time using a Marfy pattern. I ordered the paper pattern which is made out of a durable type of paper (onionskin I think).
Marfy patterns do not come with instructions. They hand clip each piece, in a single size. They don’t include seam and hem allowances. They do come with all the notches and letters to put the pieces together. You find the picture of patterns on the website or in the catalogue to use as reference for how it is supposed to look.

This is why I rate this for advanced. They are designed for the experienced person in mind. This was relatively simple to put together – the front has 3 pieces and I sewed up the semi-circle first then the longer curved seam with the corner. The corner was a bit tricky but taking my time really helped.

I had to watch out for how I cut out the pattern pieces because all the 3 front pieces had to be cut single layer. It was important to make sure that I was cutting with the pattern piece on the right side of the fabric – I messed up once and that was enough to make me more careful after that.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I loved the curved seams – they look so elegant and fluid giving the dress a lot of interest. I knew that colour blocking would look great with this design.

Fabric Used:
For both dresses I used ponte knit fabric. The ponte was thick enough to handle the curved seams without a lot of puckering.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The grey/snakeskin dress has no pattern alterations done to it. I had to take in at the waist for better shaping. The pattern comes with facing pieces for the neck and armhole. I didn’t like how they made the armhole chunkier after sewing one side so I left them off and finished with a twin needle instead.

The navy/pink was the second make and it has a couple of alterations to it :

  • I added sleeves to it. Marfy 3879 is a sleeveless pattern and as such I had to use my sleeve sloper which fit without fuss.
  • I lowered the neckline by 1/2″ and widened by 3/8″.
  • I also took it in slightly at the waist for better shaping.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes I would sew it again. It’s such a well drafted pattern that I am convinced Marfy patterns are worth it. The only caveat is that they are meant for advanced sewers hence the no instructions or line drawings.

I see more versions of this dress(tops and tunics too) in my future – I didn’t have time to make third in different tones of the same colour with some gold piping on the curved seams. It’s quite a versatile pattern that actually sewed up quickly.

Conclusion:
I really quite love how these 2 dresses turned out. I am pleased with the fit and the look. Taking my time to sew the curved seam really paid off and I find myself staring down my dress mesmerized by the seams. Plus being ponte, they are very comfortable to wear. I also like the detail I put into the navy/pink one with the hem and neckline by using navy thread on the navy bits and pink thread on the pink bits. Makes me feel like a grown up seamstress

Thanks for reading and I hope you found this useful.

Hila.

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The fit was spot on for me and I know I will be buying more patterns now that I have tried them out. These here are some patterns from the current catalog that I am drawn to – the darts are eyecatching dont you think? Have you tried out Marfy patterns?

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Colette Wren dress aka more John Kaldor love…

Hello chums,

I am super excited to share with you my first ever sponsored post. Sponsored post! I have to share how this happened cause it was totally awesome. So a few months ago I read this post from KitchenTableSewing and discovered SewEssential.co.uk – an awesome online shop that has a HUGE selection of John Kaldor fabrics at my kind of prices. I ordered 4 lengths of fabric that I was so happy with upon arrival. So when I needed a navy blue jersey fabric for a top I went and got more from their John Kaldor Isabella Wool Mix Jersey. Again I was very pleased with the quality of the fabric. About 6 weeks later I got an email from Lucy at SewEssential reaching out and offering me a choice of fabric and pattern from the online selection. Um it was a no brainer for me, I already knew they have great fabric and service so I was like “You had me at Hello“!

When it came to selecting fabric I had already bought some of the John Kaldor Isabella wool mix jersey which feels so lush against the skin – I cant tell you how much I love it  – so I decided to get it in the red and make myself a red dress. <You see I can do other colours that are on the opposite end of the color spectrum to blue :-).

Allow me to wax lyrical about the John Kaldor Isabella jersey – it is truly lovely. I washed it at 30 degrees and tumble dried on cool and that worked a treat. The edges don’t curl up as much as other jersey do which I really liked.

SewEssential stock a huge range of patterns from indie pattern houses and the big 4 to choose from. I had a lot of fun going through their selection deciding what pattern to get. In the end it was Wren. Ever since Ali (thimberlina.wordpress.com) wowed me with her Colette Wren I have been dying for a chance to make one so this was my chance. It was a happy day when I received my packet in the post with the pattern and fabric :-).

Construction

Construction wise its very simple to sew up. The instructions are concise and straightforward. However I do not like the back neck and in my next one I will redraw that back neck.

Fitting

Ok the nice bit is out of the way I am going to get  into fitting……because I did my research and I found out that a lot of people had issues with the bodice on the Wren dress so I wisely made a muslin. I made size 2 which was the one that corresponded to my bust measurement but it was much much too small unless if I was going for an exposed boob look a la JLo circa the Puff Daddy era.

So I made another muslin in the next size up. This one fit my shoulders perfectly and my waist BUT it was still lacking in boob coverage, which again, would be fine if that was my cup of tea. But it isnt. So I did a 1″ Full Bust Adjustment for the first time. So I made a third muslin which was spot on. I also added 1″ to the bodice length on account of the fact that I found the waist was too high for my liking. I liked it better sitting on my natural waist.

Initially I made it with the short sleeve version – but there is something about them that I don’t get along with so I ended up cutting them into cap sleeve which better fits my broad(ish) shoulders. The skirt portion is gathered and attached in the same way the Moneta is. Having had 4 practices with that elastic gathering technique – this step was easy enough for me. I finished the hem, sleeves and back neck with a twin needle.

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Colette Wren Dress + McCalls M6844
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Wren Dress + M6844
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Wren Dress
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Wren Dress
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Wren Dress
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Wren Dress
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Wren Dress Back neck line view
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Wren Dress
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Wren Dress
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Wren Dress
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Wren Dress
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Wren Dress

I love this dress. It flows and moves so beautifully. Basically I am in this dress but it feels like its PJs :-). It was worth all the fitting trouble I went through. I do think its one of those styles that is flattering on an any body type judging by all the beautiful versions I have seen on the blogosphere. Just make sure to make one or two muslins to get that fit spot on, then make it in a lush fabric :-).  I am thinking I’d like to make this with long sleeves in …..navy blue next (this French Navy to be exact). Yes! I cant stay away from blue. And on that note…..

Thanks so much for stopping by my little corner of the interwebs. I will be back soon!

Peace and love,

Hila