My 8th Moneta needs no introduction….

Hey hey guys!

One of my favourite dresses on the planet is finally on the blog! Whoop! Its a Moneta dress – number 8! Will there ever be a number 10? How many more can I make? Only time will tell. In the meantime this is a pictures post :-)..

Colette Patterns Moneta Dress
Colette Patterns Moneta Dress – awesome stripe matching!
Colette Patterns Moneta Dress – Pockets are EVERYTHING!
Colette Patterns Moneta Dress
Colette Patterns Moneta Dress – Slightly wonky but who cares?
Colette Patterns Moneta Dress – Dancing!
Colette Patterns Moneta Dress – “Oh no Mr Mad Hatter, I drank from the bottle that said ‘Drink Me’ and now I can almost touch the ceiling!” Caption by Diane DreamCutSew.com
Colette Patterns Moneta Dress Dont know what to call this pose….
Colette Patterns Moneta Dress – “I woke up like this and this is how I yawn” 🙂
Colette Patterns Moneta Dress – This is my ” I mean business pose” 🙂

Pictures taken at The StitchRoom Sewcial. Fabric was from Fletchers Fabrics in Leeds Market.

Dress in motion here..

Thanks for stopping by and until next time happy sewing 🙂

Peace and love,

Hila

xox

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Butterick B6097 – Pattern Review

The story with this top is that it started as a Pinterest pin on my Clothes I Think I Can Make board.

Sometime later, I randomly stumbled upon a McCall Pattern Company all brand sale wherein I made the acquaintance of  Butterick B6097.

Butterick B6097

Butterick B6097 is described as a fitted shirt, has collar and peplum variations, princess seams, front button-down closure and button band. Technically speaking, this is a toile which turned out to be very wearable.

I used quilting cottons that I bought from Leeds Market. There was point in my early sewing life when I would buy 1m pieces of quilting cottons <why?> /sigh. Anyway, I had just enough to make this top in the short peplum style with box pleats. I can’t recall why I went for the peter pan collar but I think I wanted to practice finishing a peter pan collar with bias binding.

I cut a size 8 based on the finished bust measurement. I made no alterations at all. The fit is pretty spot on. It could do with a small swayback adjustment if I was being all perfectionist about it. But I’m not, so I won’t and that’s okay.

Butterick B6097
Butterick B6097 Box pleat detail

Armhole fininshed with bias tape.
Butterick B6097

I do like the peter pan collar 🙂

 

The style is ……..sassy. I feel quite sassy when I am wearing it. Now I just need to find some nice white cotton lawn fabric and finally realise the inspiration image.

Verdict – I will make again in solid neutral colour. Recommended with the caveat that I used finished garment measurement to select my size.

Thanks for stopping by. Until next time, Happy Sewing!!

Peace and love,

Hila

PS. I am nearly caught up blogging my 2017 items 🙂 That makes me happy.

 

 

Additions to my Moneta colleterie

I made 2 more Moneta dresses!

To add to my growing colleterie of Monetas (it has been officially designated that a group or collection of Moneta dresses is refered to by the term colleterrie).

At last count I now have made 7 Moneta dresses. And readers, I have plans for more:-). So yes this is a pattern that keeps on giving for me.

Enough waxing lyicals – I made them for the #monetaparty which was this really huge event on Instagram. It was fun seeing all the different Monetas that our incredibly creative community made. It always amazes me how only one pattern can literally be made by 1000 seamstress and not a single one is the same! Continue reading

Colette Moneta Dress aka more John Kaldor love

Hello everyone!

One Moneta
Two Monetas
Three Monetas
Four Monetas

Five!

Ok SO I may really like this pattern. Hence I will skip the pleasantries which you can read about here ( Moneta 1, Moneta 2, Moneta 3, Moneta 4).

Let skip right ahead to fabric m’kay.

2 words – John. Kaldor.

I could wax lyrical about how much I love JK fabrics but you probably already know that. I had enough of this leftover to make the Lydia Top <link here>.

For the collar I used some scrap ponte from an old make – Named Dakota dress. I didn’t interface the collar so it’s a wee bit on the floppy side but it’s not too bad. I decided to try the short sleeve but I found that I had to shorten them. I think the sleeve is a bit too big for my upper arm so next time I make this sleeve length I should use a smaller size.

Sewing this up was a pleasure and very fast. All seams were done on the overlocker. I finished the hem and sleeves with a twin needle.

Pictures….

fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-671
Moneta dress

fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-675fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-684fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-695fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-704fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-736fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-740fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-748

Overall I am a very happy bunny with this dress.

Thanks for stopping by and I’ll be back soon with another TNT post. Until then, Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

XoX

Sewaholic Oakridges

Hello chums,

I took a rather unexpected break from blogging. Actually it was forced upon me…its summer holidays and the kids have been wanting to play a new PC game they got as a present. Wrestling for control of the computer when you are a significantly outnumbered as I am means that I have no access to write up my blog posts :-(. I need a laptop <sigh>.

Still I have managed to bribe them with extra morning PC time in exchange for 30 mins to write up this post. Please forgive any typos and remember that Done is better than Perfect :-). I am running behind on posting my finished items and these were finished over a month ago actually. OK here goes…

I bought the Oakridge pattern a  long time ago but never got round to sewing it up . I even started it but never finished it off. In a flurry of productivity I decided to tackle some of my UFOs after getting back from holiday in early May and these 2 were in the pile.May bank holiday weekend 480 Continue reading

McCalls M7244

Hello everyone!

A bit late with this post but here is my main make using the fabulous black and white textured scuba from Fabworks. It took some time for this fabric to be paired with this pattern. I was planning on making a Coco dress version a la Love, Lucie (which is where I first saw this fabric) but it just didn’t happen. Somehow I landed on this Plenty by Trace Reese McCalls M7244 – a semi-fitted, partially lined dress (close-fitting through bust) has flounce and invisible back zipper. The fabric’s fate was sealed.

McCalls M7244

The dress is designed for medium-weight moderate stretch knits so this fabric fit the bill. Plus the rich texture of this fabric brings up the dress a notch IMHO.I cut out the size small but as soon as I compared the pattern to my knit bodice sloper I knew a swayback adjustment would be needed. I did a tricky  1.75″ swayback and that did the trick. That CB seam follows the curves of my back perfectly now. Skims rather than tight IYSWIM.

McCalls M7244 Side view
M7244
M7244

After cutting out the fabric I basted the bodice together to try it on and unfortunately it was way too big. In 1/2″ increments I got the right size for me when I had taken in the side 1.5″. I also remembered to take that off the sleeve head as well. This distorted the bust dart and I think next time I make it I will have to redraft the dart by grading the pattern down.

2.5mm Twin Needle hem
Isn’t that a lovely neckline?

I didn’t bother with the zip. It easily goes on and off. There are a few things I did that were not in the instructions:

  •  stabilising the shoulder seam. The instructions do say to double stitch but I find its more effective to use clear elastic.
  • stabilised the dropped waist seam. The dropped waist falls where there will be movement so I think it could do with reinforcement to stop it from stretching out. Plus the fabric has a bit of weight to it and the flounce does pull on the upper bodice so the extra support helps.
  • stabilised the hem for top stitching by using double sided tape and my clapper (while the material is wrinkle free it resists pressing!). It did the trick and I have minimal tunneling here.
  • that lovely neckline needs to stabilised before sewing up, otherwise it will stretch out. Staystitching is not enough. Either use clear elastic or twill tape or stay tape or fusible stay tape. I am not too happy with the bulk at the neckline and I could have topsticthed it down but that would stretched it out. Next time I will use a thinner jersey fabric for the facings to reduce bulk. I will also make the facing about 10% smaller to reduce the slight gaping at the neckline.
M7244
The rich texture really makes this dress pop.

The faced finish on the neckline is nice and clean. I was tempted to skip it (in my impatience) but I am glad I followed through. I do like that neck line – its wide and deep without being too….expansive :-).

McCalls M7244
McCalls M7244

One new thing I absolutely loved about making this is that I learnt a new skill – working with power mesh! Its fantastic stuff and in future I will use it on knit projects. I feel like it just makes the dress hang better and feels nice against my skin. It cost me £6/meter for the mesh and this used less than one meter. The instructions on how to attach the lining are frankly speaking ….. terrible. Its easy enough to see that you are supposed to sew up the lining mesh. Attach it to the neckline facing then sew the outer bit to the inner bit at the neckline. That’s what I did.2016-03-07 12.37.00 2016-03-07 12.37.09

The sleeves are set in.I am not sure if thats just me but I felt that the sleeve cap was just too high. For my next iteration I am reducing this a little bit and see how it goes.

Despite the changes I made I feel I managed to maintain the original proportions intended by the designer. This dress turned out so much better than how I pictured it my head and I love it! SO much so I have already cut another one. Its also quick to make up. I think it might also look nice sleeveless for a summer make  although this would require a bit of redrafting on the armhole.

It swishes when I stride.
…and it twirls well too!
Loving my new M7244

I like this dress. Its not often I show off my little cleavage 🙂

Thanks for stopping by until then…..

Happy Sewing!

Hila

X0X

Stress free Giselle dresses: ONE Pattern TWO Takes

Hello everyone!

I am excited to share my last entry for IPM2015 over at The monthly stitch. I cant believe IPM is nearly over – its been a blast so far and I have added some really great pieces to my evergrowing handmade wardrobe. The Pattern I chose for 1 pattern 2 Takes is Kate and Rose’s Giselle dress.

Decided on this pattern as I have made a winter Giselle before here for Froctober. I love and wear this dress regularly. Making both dresses was stress free.PicMonkey Collage

Dress 1 is view A with the shaped midriff. I made it in linen. The linen was dyed Jeans blue using Dylon fabric dye. I am very pleased with the result. I knew I wanted to use the decorative stitches on my machine to create a feature of what was otherwise a plain dress. So using my colour wheel I narrowed down to three colours which I auditioned on scraps and decided on  mustard gold thread. Its spun polyester from my stash – nothing fancy. While trying out the stitches it it occured to me that the stitches would look good on the V neck as well. I played around with the settings and got a size of stars I liked. For the bias binding I made linen binding but I thought how cute would it be to have some contrast floral binding instead and whoop whoop! A lovely inside with floral contrasts.

As much as I love my winter Giselle I have always felt that it needed pockets so for this one  I drafted some pockets to go in the side seams. But to give them more support I drafted them so the top part of the pocket is also on the waist. I am hoping it will reduce gaping when pocket is in use. For the pockets, left over scraps from my Granville shirt were used – a fabric I love dearly. It cotton poplin so a good match for linen.

For the hem it had to be three lines of star stitching. They are not the same size each gets slightly smaller. Its a teeny tiny detail but I love it. Which leads me to my top tips for sewing a decorative hem (it was a steep learning curve for me).

1. Always start with a full bobbin. The last thing you want is to run out and have to loose your setting while you refill a bobbin.

2. At the end leave long thread tails so you can thread a needle and neatly move thread behind and then cut. Makes for a neat finish.

3. Steam, not press, but steam to set the stitches on both sides. Its a nice luxe finish. (less flat).

Not much else to say except that we were in Essex last weekend and took advantage to get some location shots 😉

Dress 2 is view B which is a sleeveless maxi dress with empire waist and tiered skirt. The fabric is a delicious scrummy cotton lawn! Hello new love of my sewing life! Cutting into lawn: orgasmic!. Sewing lawn: orgasmic! Its such a fantastic material to work with! I honestly dont know why its taken me so long to get round to this marvellous fabric! Speaking of which I picked this up at Leeds market. At £7/m it was a splurge for me but those colours! When I bought the fabric I had no idea what to do with it but when this challenge popped up the haze lifted! Only problem was I didnt have enough fabric. The skirt would be fuller but I made do with what I had. It still looks good.

I used black satin bias binding for armholes and neckline. For the contrast empire waist I wanted to add a bit of texture to it and used the decorative top stitcing. The only disappointment was the black contrast fabric which I purchased on Ebay sold as 100% cotton poplin. But I dont think its 100% cotton because when I used the cotton setting on my iron it burnt the fabric. I think its actually polycotton. Its stiff and unyielding compared to the lawn. Ah well you live and learn. Its still a fun dress. Lush to wear and so comfortable!

I love these dress and they are perfect for summery hot days. Now come on Summer I am ready and waiting for you! Pretty please come. We in the sewing community have made so many lovely things for you. Have you made something waiting for summer to come too?

Thanks ever so much for stopping by! Happy sewing everyone!

Hila

X0X

One Moneta, Two Monetas, Three Monetas, Four!

Hello everyone!

One Moneta
Two Monetas
Three Monetas
Four!

I hope you are all having lovely sunny weather like we are up in the north of England! Its sunny! I am super excited to share this 4th Moneta!!! Yes thats right! Fourth Moneta I have made! Its my MonetMonthly Stitch IPM2015 Dresses entry.

Knowing I needed a sleeveless Moneta I picked up this lightweight 4 way stretch jersey a few months back.  It cost me £5/meter so a good bargain. Its been in my stash about 6 months so yay for stash  busting ;-). The lining is a 2 way stretch cotton jersey.

Colette patterns provides a free extras booklet here which includes patterns and instructions for five additional collar variations you can use for the Moneta dress. Collars include: peter pan collar, round collar (I made one here), scalloped collar, bow collar and tie collar. I was going to make the scalloped collar but as I cut the fabric, a sudden impulse to go with the peter pan collar was hard to ignore. Yes I am a sucker for a peter pan collar.

I knew the peter pan collar  would looks great in a solid colour on the floral print bodice!  It would have been white but I had no white jersey fabric in my stash. Never mind – I am very pleased with this outcome:-). Luckily there was some knit fusible interfacing in my stash which I used to stabilise the collar. I did try making the collar without interfacing  (I couldn’t be bothered to go and rummage through the attic boxes to locate the interfacing) but it was sad sad looking floppy thing so I bit the bullet and started the collar all over again.

I sewed the curves of the collar on my serger. Not a good idea! Must use a sewing machine next time because there was some wonkiness there. The collar is a simple rounded style with a slight lap in front. So its quite important to be accurate ~ I wasn’t with the overlocker. I ended up with a 1cm gap between the ends of the collar at the front…so mmm.. yeah I decided an upside down heart shaped button would do the trick of covering up my booboo ;-). It will do…Done is better than perfect Hila! Done is better than perfect.

My previous Monetas and I have had waist elastic issues threatening our otherwise blissful relationship but this time round I nailed it LIKE A BOSS!!!! Got the gathering perfectly evenly distributed without ripping the clear elastic. When I sewed the waist to the bodice its was perfectly encased in the overlocker thread. So ridonkulously proud of that! I guess 4 times was the charm;-)

I found the instructions very easy and clear to understand. Even the armholes were easy to manage. Colette provide a video tutorial as well as a sewalong. The clean finish lined armhole creates a lovely professional finish that I will definitely be carrying it forward into future makes. The hem was finished with a 2.0mm twin needle. It was a struggle. The material is so lightweight I had to pull ever so gently to keep it taut and keep it from getting eaten by the machine. Next time I use such a jersey I will stick to zig zag stitch for the hem.

I really love the contrast peter pan collar of this pattern and the pockets! I also love the back collar with its feminine shape. Love the gathering at the waist…ok you get the picture I love this dress and I love this pattern. It comes highly recommend as a great little wash and wear dress. This simple children’s rhyme sums up my future with Moneta (following from the first part)…..

Five Monetas
Six Monetas
Seven Monetas
More!

Now for oodles and oodles of pictures. Enjoy! I have included one behind the scenes pic – can you tell which one it is?

Hila

XoX