MCBN June: Raglan Sleeve Tees – Jalie 3669

June is quite possibly one of my favourite months of the year! All the plants in my garden and at our allotment are green, verdant and lush. If nature did a dance every month, June would be the crescendo of the dance executed with energy, aplomb and passion. This months project inspires such feeling in me – especially with the green jersey that we selected for the raglan sleeve tees I sewed up for Mr. SNS and junior.  I also learnt a few interesting things about the heritage of the raglan sleeve which you might find interesting too…..

Here is the link that will take you to the post on the Minerva Craft Blogger Network. Enjoy!

Thanks for stopping by.

Peace and love,

Hila

 

Advertisements

Cowl Neck Top 01/2017 #119 #burdachallenge2018

This was another unplanned make for my #burdachallenge2018. The idea for this developed after meeting the fabric. SO I will start with the fabric. This is a beautiful shiny viscose jersey with the most beautiful drape – it is like a liquid gemstone. I picked it up from Fletchers Fabrics in Leeds while shopping with my friend Eleanor. I bought 1.5m without any idea of what to make with it. It was only when I was shooting my Youtube fabric haul video that I realised what this fabric could become.

The pattern is from the Jan 2017 issue of BurdaStyle. Here is the line drawing:

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119

And here is the style picture 

The recommended fabric is silk jersey in order to achieve the exaggerated cowl neck. The instructions were easy to follow. The neck is finished in an ingenious way IMO. I handstitched the shoulder yoke facing as I didn’t want to topstitch. The sleeves are set in which is a little tedious to do on jersey fabrics but worth it in the end.

It came together quickly. The little bralet is a gem of a pattern as well. I used rainbow foldover elastic because I like it. The pattern calls for cutting out strips of fashion fabric otherwise. Technically this is the first bra I have sewn :-). I am looking forward to whipping up more of the bralets using scrap fabrics.

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top – The bralet on its own is a great pattern with a good fit.

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top Rainbow foldover elastic
Interior view of the back.
Handstitched inner shoulder yoke facings.
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top

I cut my usual Burda 38 but I felt like I could have gone down a size on this which is unusual.

Verdict – a great stylish pattern with the deep cowl. I think I could have done a better job with styling it though. I feel this was designed to be tucked in but in my pictures, I didn’t do that. It does make a difference to how the top looks. Its a lovely top though I doubt I shall be making another one any time soon – I might try it again in size 36.

Thanks for stopping by!

 

 

 

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Day & Night Dress Challenge 2018 : Simplicity S8045 & Burdastyle 02/2018 #101 Dress

I neglected to mention that I made 2 dresses for the Day and Night Dress challenge hosted by ElizabethMadeThis.com.

 

 

BurdaStyle 02/2018 #101 Dress

For my day dress, I decided to multi task by also making a dress for my #burdachallenge2018 plan for the month. The dress I chose was style number 101 from the February issue of BurdaStyle magazine.

The style was a bit outside my comfort zone given its vintage vibes. Normally the vintage I like tends to be the maxi variety. Here is the line drawing :

BurdaStyle 02/2018 #101

It was actually the line drawing that drew me to this pattern. The details were quite unique to me especially the lower skirt godet.

I used a fabric that I bought a while back on holiday abroad. It’s a peach skin that has the most glorious drape. My husband actually chose this for me – though I was sceptical of the Pollock-like abstract print – it worked really well for me. The only downside is that with the print it hard to see the design lines clearly.

With my usual Burda size 38, this fit right off the pattern sheet. The only alterations I made were to omit the cute but labourious self-faced buttons and loops on the sleeves and the lower skirt.

Sewing with peach skin was not as challenging as I thought it would be, which is a relief as I have a few other lovely peachskins that have been sitting in my fabric collection.

Its a very pretty dress and something that makes me feel quite charming :-). By the way, the instructions on this pattern were actually quite good.

BurdaStyle 02/2018 #101
BurdaStyle 02/2018 #101 Dress

 

Simplicity S8045

For the night dress, I had in mind to make something for a date night we had planned to eat out at a Cuban Tapas restaurant. So when I saw the red viscose jersey with a lovely surface sheen my idea of a little red dress was cemented.

I have sewn with this Mimi G pattern before here and had plans to make it again because I wasn’t happy with my fabric selection especially after a few washes. The sizing on this pattern was spot on and the drape of this viscose was better suited than the ponte I used previously. Its a sexy little number and I do feel like roaring when I am wearing it :-). The collar band that goes over the shoulders is quite snug and tends to roll up as seen in the pictures so its not as wide as shown on the pattern envelope. I think for the more endowed in the bust area that a toile is definitely recommended if you are thinking of making this pattern. Pictures-

Simplicity S8045
Simplicity S8045

Here is my video review of the two dresses:

The Burdastyle dress was my planned February make for #burdachallenge as well 🙂

Thanks so much for stopping by! Until next time – Happy Sewing!!!!

Peace and love,

Hila

A Second pair of Butterick B5895

 

 

These trousers have a long history, of sitting in my UFO box. I cut these out almost 18 months ago and I dont know why they went into the box (you know I know why but allow me my delusion okay).

Anyhow since the uber success that was my Better Late than Never Blazer, I have been very slowly picking out a UFO a month to sew up and see what my creative genius abandoned.

Tangent – I have made the decision to work through my UFO box at a rate of one UFO per month on average. After that there WILL be no more UFO box in my cave. It has been mandated and passed into law. I WILL NO LONGER HAVE A UFO BOX.

Back to the project at hand – I first made this pattern in 2016 (sadly its out of print  now) and loved the trousers which I still wear to this day. These ones were made in a cotton sateen with 3% spandex giving a nice amount of stretch. The fabric is reversible and I did play around with that by using the reverse for the waistband and the hip yokes.

The pattern is supposed to have a center back zip which is an interesting concept on trousers (I didnt realise how accustomed I am to center front or side zips on trousers until I went to the toilet in these trousers – I still automatically reach for my CF). Given these TMI observations – I decided to move the zip to the side seam for this second pair. It worked out beautifully even if I do say so myself.

If you’d like to read further details about the size I cut etc then please <click here>. Pictures.

Butterick B5895

I used the reverse fabric on the hip yoke and the waistband

Butterick B5895 Trousers

Silk jersey Winnats tank top and Butterick capris. #memademay2018 #memadeeveryday #minervamakes

A post shared by Hila (@saturdaynightstitch) on

Verdict: Yet another UFO conversion success story!!!! I love them 🙂

Thanks for stopping by and until next time Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

 

Hila

XoX

Panel Overlay Skirt BurdaStyle 03/2018 #116 #burdachallenge2018

 

 

This was one of my March #burdachallenge2018 planned makes. Its the panel overlay skirt from the March 2018 issue. The issue itself was not very exciting and I struggled to select what to sew from it. After several browse throughs I landed on this skirt.

I rather liked the idea of the asymmetric panel on the top with the extra gathering. That bit was quite a challenge to sew up though it looks like a simple enough skirt.

BurdaStyle 03/2018 #116

The gathered overlay goes over the waistband but its also part of the in seam pocket. There is two sets of gathering in this skirt – the first is the main skirt itself gathered to fit the waistband. The second is the panel overlay which is gathered by way of elastic inserted into a casing. Quite a clever little feature when you think about it.

The fabric was bought from a flea market in Ocean’s Grove, New Jersey last year. Technically this is an upcycled project since they were originally a pair of bark-cloth curtains. The curtains were only $2 :-). Barkcloth is always such a pleasure to sew with. I finished the waistband with a cheerful yellow bias binding and an invisible zip at the center back.

By the time I snipped my last thread on this project, I had got over my ambivalence to the skirt and found that I actually liked it. Perhaps its the nice deep pockets or the barkcloth or the fact that the fabric cost me $2 in total. I have worn this quite a lot and find it to be very comfortable.

BurdaStyle 03/2018 #116 Skirt
BurdaStyle 03/2018 #116 Gathered panel detail
Side seam where the gathered overlay and main skirt are sewn.
I love the cheerful yellow bias binding (I made that from a fat quarter Kona cotton)
Other end of the panel that “sits” over the main skirt. I did some hand-stitching here. I like this waist detail and this is one of the things I like about BurdaStyle patterns -little details.
In case you didnt realise it was a panel – there is a panel here people!

The morale of this particular project for me is that I am glad I tried something that I wasn’t too over the moon about. This is one of those projects that I feel has given me some growth in terms of my approach to sewing : its okay to sew things that don’t make my heart race with excitement at the prospect of wearing them.

Thanks for stopping by and until next time Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

3 X BurdaStyle Magazine 09/2010 #121A #burdachallenge2018

Ever since I sewed up the turtleneck top from Burdastyle 09/2010 in 2016, I have been planning more variations in my head. You see, this top pattern is so easy to sew up and comfy to wear as it doesnt have a neck seam. Here is the line drawing:

121a_technical_large
Burda 09/2010 #121A

 

blog-pictures-coco-etc-281
Seamless neckline from my first 2016 version

 

To be honest with you I could waffle on but there really isn’t much more to add about this pattern that I haven’t already said here. So here are pictures of the three latest ones which also fulfilled my March #burdachallenge2018 goals.

BurdaStyle 09/2010 #121 – This is a crepe jersey that I picked up from a fabric swap at SewUpNorth
BurdaStyle 09/201 #121 – Fabric is a viscose jersey from Fabworks Mill Shop
BurdaStyle 09/2010 #121 – Quite possibly my favourite made of a viscose jersey that I bought from B&M Fabrics in Leeds Market.

So these have been in heavy rotation especially for layering in the colder months. Its been getting a bit warmer so for now they have been put aside until September. Isn’t it lovely to find a TNT pattern? I now have 5 of these 🙂

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

May the Fourth be with you. A Star Wars McCalls M6044

 

I made this shirt for May the Fourth Star Wars day. Mr SNS had selected the fabric himself from B&M Fabrics around the New Year. He originally wanted piping all round the collar and button band but I kindly declined.

The compromise was what you see here. Having made this  7 times now , there isnt much else I can add except to say that sewing the short sleeve is even faster than the long sleeve. Its the same pattern I have used since the first one made in December 2015 so if you’d like to read a more detailed review then please click here.

Pictures:

McCalls M6044
McCalls M6044 Bake view

To avoid pattern matching – contrast button band.
So happy with the collar.
Double hem stitching for added oomph 🙂
I cut the collar so that when its popped the storm trooper is staring at you 🙂
My fave part of a project is when I get to put my brand on it #ownit!

Thanks so much for stopping by! Until next time Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

MCBN May Man Jeans: Vogue V8801

I made jeans for Mr SNS! So ridiculously proud of these as they have been a long time in my head. I think I overthink things sometimes because these were not as hard to make as I had made out in my head (SMH). Anyhow they are a big hit with the wearer so much so he did his own happy jump pose 🙂

Here is the link that will take you to the post on the Minerva Craft Blogger Network. Enjoy!

Vogue V8801 Jeans

Thanks for stopping by.

Peace and love,

Hila

 

A Q&A with Lori Beckstead of Clothes Making Mavens Podcast

One of my favourite sewing podcasts to listen to is Clothes Making Mavens co-hosted by Helena Ashbridge (GrayAllDay.com) and Lori Beckstead (Frivolousat Last.com).

Helena and Lori are two women who love to talk sewing but have exhausted the good humour of their non-sewing friends and family, so they now talk to each other! From across the continent they Skype to discuss their obsession with garment sewing. They also interview other like-minded sewists and delight in the wonderful international sewing community.

Lori shares her own experiences, motivation, inspiration and even her most used swear word!

What was your lightbulb moment for starting Clothes Making Mavens ).

I responded to Helena’s call on her blog GrayAllDay.com for a potential co-host. I had actually been thinking it would be good to start up a podcast but oftentimes my perfectionism or fear of failure gets in the way of jumping into something, so I think if it hadn’t been for Helena’s call I would never have done it on my own. And it turns out we make a great team! It’s like it was meant to happen.

What makes your podcast unique?

I think when it comes to sewing podcasts, it’s hard to be absolutely unique within that genre. Our main goal is for listeners to feel like they’re hanging out with their sewing friends having a chat. I like to say it’s like throwing a sewing get-together in your home except you don’t have to tidy up and bake banana bread! We try to highlight sewists from around the world. And, we make sure the audio quality is always high so it’s a great listening experience.

Is there anything you would go back and do differently?

I cringe a bit when I hear myself on the first episode — I can hear in my voice that I was nervous. But I think that’s perfectly normal…it’s the same when I think back to the first garment I sewed and wore out in public. It wasn’t perfect, but I was pretty proud of it. (It was a black crushed velvet jumpsuit, by the way, with awkwardly short legs which I had very badly attempted to modify to be flared.) Overall there isn’t anything I’d do differently with the podcast. And the great thing about a podcast is there’s always a chance to do another episode if there’s something you want to try or something new you want to talk about.

What has been your proudest moment so far on this journey

I think just actually DOING this podcast makes me proud. It’s a ton of work: researching, networking, writing scripts, organizing recording times around multiple time zones, helping guests set up the right technology, and then I spend hours editing each episode. So I feel a great sense of accomplishment with each new episode we release. And of course, I always feel very proud when someone takes the time to let us know that they enjoy listening.

What is the one piece of advice you’d give to anyone wanting to start a podcast?

I have two pieces of advice, which may actually be contradictory! One, if you’re wanting to give it a try, go for it! I absolutely love doing a podcast, so I’d recommend it. But two, do your research so you know what’s involved. It’s a huge commitment, and there’s a lot to know about equipment, software, web hosting, how to do effective interviews, etc. Reach out to other podcasters for advice if you’re thinking of starting one up. Podcasters tend to be a pretty helpful bunch, which I discovered when I did my share of reaching out for help and advice. And if you happen to be near Toronto, come join us at the Toronto Women’s Podcasting Network! I recently started this group up to provide support and networking for women interested in podcasting.

How do you balance producing a podcast with a full-time job, a sewing blog and actually sewing?

I have no idea! Lol. I guess it’s a labour of love, and it’s part of how I like to express my creativity. I put a high value and priority on exercising my creative muscles; I think having the right creative outlets in one’s life adds immensely to overall quality of life and happiness. Sewing is a great creative outlet but so is creating media about sewing: photos, blog posts, podcasts. I enjoy doing it all. I am also very lucky that my full-time job is being a professor in a media production department at a university. So being an actual producer of media allows me to keep developing my own skills and understanding of media, to stay on top of new developments in media platforms and production software, and to bring all that to my students. So I get to do this creative thing that I love but technically it’s also professional development! Lucky me!

How do you switch off and relax?

I knit. I can really get into a zen state through the regular rhythm of knitting. And knitting is so portable so I can do it just about anywhere, including at meetings at work (where I am most likely to be in need of a little zen calm). And I drink wine. But I’m not allowed to do that at work meetings, unfortunately. ;-).

What does the future hold for Clothes Making Mavens?

More chatting about sewing! We don’t have any big changes in the works; we just hope to keep putting out episodes that we enjoy producing and that people hopefully enjoy listening to. Helena and I are always trying to dream up ways to get more people’s voices on the podcast, so I hope listeners will keep contributing their stories and comments. My favourite episodes are always ones in which listeners have sent in a recording or contributed a voice message for us to play.

What are your other interests/hobbies?

I am an avid volleyball player, both indoor and beach, so I play year-round. I like to do yoga. And I like to bake tasty things that are also healthy to eat (well, mostly!). I love to travel and am lucky/privileged enough to have been to a LOT of different places around the world. I dabble in jewellery making and have made various pieces of silver jewellery, but silversmithing is pretty involved and not quite so easy to do as an at-home hobby. I love birds and would probably be an avid bird watcher if that didn’t necessitate me getting out of bed before 9 am on a weekend! Lol. I read a ton of fiction. But in general, I’m pretty sure that if it weren’t for external expectations and obligations I would just spend all my days lying around napping with my cats. 🙂

What is your most used swear word when sewing?

Most used is “fuck” but actual favourite swear word is “clusterfuck”. I swear so often I don’t even realize it when I drop an F-bomb around my much-more-refined mother. Lol.

Dogs or Cats?

Cats. I love dogs, too, but I’m far too lazy to deal with having a dog. Maybe if they breed a new species of dog that knows how to use a litter box and can lick itself clean, I’d consider it. 😉

Scary movie or happy endings?

Scary movies with happy endings, of course!

Can you share your favourite quote with us?

“Better is the enemy of good.” I think of this whenever I feel perfectionism start to creep in and spoil my good time. :-).

Thank you so much Lori for taking the time to answer these questions!

The Mavens are hoping to bring lots of different voices to the podcast by allowing you to record your own answers and send them along to us to share with the sewing world! So if you fancy having a go at being on a podcast click here .

Links

Clothes Making Mavens podcast: clothesmakingmavens.com
instagram: @frivolousatlast
pinterest: http://pinterest.com/lbeckste/

FrivolousAtLast.com (Lori Beckstead’s blog)

GrayAllDay.com (Helena Ashbridges’s blog)

 

Swishy Yoga Skirt BurdaStyle 01/2016 #113 #burdachallenge2018

This project is something of a fail. More specifically, a fabric fail. The pattern is a yoga skirt from the 01/2016 issue of BurdaStyle. The style caught my eye with the overlayered skirt, the ruched waistband and I am sucker for high low hemlines. Here is the line drawing and style picture:

 

Burdastyle 01/2016 #113

I like the idea of building up my yoga wardrobe. I traced this pattern way back in 2016 when I received the magazine. This is the second time I made this. The first one was sent to my little sister. She never reported back on it so I can assume all is well with the skirt.

The design calls for a side zipper but I omitted this because I couldn’t be asked (perhaps I subconsciously realised that this was headed for the fail category). The instructions were quite good with this pattern (translates as no head scratching). Its a  bit of a fabric piggy on account of the overlays.

To cut a long tale short – the fabric – a four way stretch viscose jersey – did not like being overlocked. This picture succinctly captures the issue. 

I have been wearing it despite the imminent disintegration. I quite like how it moves – very swishy. I tend to alternate between a saunter and a sashay when I am wearing it.  So its worth making it again but I need a better quality fabric. The fabric has been in my collection since 2014 – I picked it up from a closing down sale in Bradford. It cost 50p per meter. Pictures –

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #113

 

Back to pattern. So taking out the zipper means that I cant get the snug fit shown on the model so I am playing with the idea of inserting elastic in the waistband for my third try. Wish me luck 🙂

This was one of my January #burdachallenge2018 planned makes. I need to get better at blogging my makes sooner 🙂

Thanks for stopping by and until next time Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

Offset Jersey Tops BurdaStyle 02/2018 #107 #burdachallenge2018

When I received the February issue of BurdaStyle this pattern immediately jumped out at me. I could see this working well for a beautiful multi colour fabric that I had bought with no particular pattern in mind. Here is the line drawing

BurdaStyle 02/2018 #107

The line drawing doesnt the top much justice so here is the fashion photo

The front and back pattern pieces are nearly identical but you have to absolutely make sure to note the seam numbers on the fabric for when you have to put it together. Otherwise, like me, you might get into a bit of a muddle. But once you have everything properly marked (and traced – when I traced out the pattern pieces I forgot to put on the seam numbers so when the instructions said to sew seam No.1 – I had no idea where it was) its actually a very easy garment to sew up.

I made 2 of these tops. The first one was not as successful because of incorrect fabric selection. I used a medium weight 2 way knit fabric. I felt that it was didnt have enough drape for the pattern and given that the hip is snug on this pattern it wasnt what I envisioned. 

The hips are snug on this, which would have been fine in my much younger days 🙂

It better when I move the hem up to my natural waist.
Its a shame because I really liked the fabric but this was totally wrong pattern for it.

 

Not to be deterred I immediately dug into my fabrics and found a grey 4 way stretch viscose jersey that I thought might work better. Having learnt my lessons before – it took less than an hour to cut and finish this top.

BurdaStyle 02/2018 #107

As you can see this fabric was more suitable for the pattern. I love this top and I have worn it so many times already. By the time we did this photoshoot (indoors because it was the big snow week) it has been washed about 4 times already. Here I am wearing it with my DP Studio Skirt

This is a pattern that I will definitely be coming back to. I need it many different colours. It makes a nice alternative to a normal T Shirt. This was one of my February #burdachallenge2018 makes.

Thanks for stopping by and until next time – Happy Sewing.

Hila

XoX