SWAP2017: An Over and a Lower

My SWAP has 4 overs which are :

  1. Fitted shirt in shocking pink.
  2. Embroidered fitted top
  3. Knitted red and white jumper
  4. White tie back top
  5. A ‘rogue’ dress

For this post I am looking at the pink fitted shirt and the yellow maxi skirt.

Fitted Shirt

granvilee

Sewaholic Granville and I got back a long way. See here <link>. Its a tried and true patterns that I love.

I had already seen the shocking pink fabric at the Shuttle in Shipley before deciding on the SWAP colours. Once my colours were settled, I was forced to go back to The Shuttle (I want to be clear on this – I did NOT want to go to a fabric shop but in the spirit of SWAP I had to – I was a reluctant  fabric shopper – those other fabrics followed me home – I was reluctant but I am so proud of myself for my restraint). Luckily it was still there when I went back and I bought 3 meters of it. Its  a stretch cotton sateen that was interesting to work with.

I cant say its been my best sewing experience ever. I found that the sateen had a strong needle memory and I couldn’t unpick the fabric without creating a visual disturbance. I quickly caught on though and started using wonder clips instead of pins where necessary. I also needed to use a walking foot to prevent it stretching out as I sewed. It also why I opted not to topsticth the button placket.

Because of the stretch nature of the fabric it is very comfortable. Pictures do not do this fabric justice. Its is very bright pink. As in incredibly in your face unapologetic pink. It makes me happy.

Yellow Maxi Skirtyellow20maxi20skirt

For the maxi skirt I used the skirt portion of the Anna dress. I love this pattern and have made it several times already. The fabric was hard to come by. I wanted a really bright sunshine yellow. I did something I haven’t done before – ordering loads of swatches. I must say that made me feel very grown up indeed. I eventually found the right colour and weight from an Ebay shop called (apologies in advance to any brexiters reading this) EuroFabrics. Its a very beautiful high quality stretchy crepe with viscose fabric that has a micro texture. It has a bit of give on the cross grain which makes for a very comfortable wear.

I sewed up the skirt but while checking fit I realised that I wanted pockets. I try to add pockets where I can in a way that doesn’t interfere too much with the design lines. Because this skirt is close fitting at the hip, in seam pockets would not have worked. So I decided to draft quasi-patch pockets that attach at the princess seams. I felt like this was the most sympathetic addition of pockets.

I still have the option of cutting out the thigh slit but as yet am undecided. I quite like it as is for now. Initially the plan was to add a narrow waistband but I didnt like after the initial basting – it made it even  more high waisted that I was envisioning. So it was Petersham ribbon to the rescue!!!  The only fly in the ointment , however is that I did think it needed lining but when I wore it for pictures – I could see my panty lines – as I grow older I get less keen on VPLs on my own self. I have since bought some lining to add which is an easy fix. I will only line the upper third of the skirt. The other option is to go commando when in this skirt and……. mmm……..again as I get older I am less keen on the whole going commando thing 🙂

Pictures…..

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SWAP2017 Granville Shirt and Anna Maxi skirt

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So here we are reader, the first 2 of my 11 SWAP2017 blogged. Whats next? The orange skirt I think….undecided

Thanks so much for stopping my little corner of the interwebs. Until next time,

Happy sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

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10 Fashionable Ways to style a Sewaholic Granville Shirt #OWOP16

Hello everyone,

I decided to join the One Week One Pattern (OWOP) challenge when CinderEllis announced it on her blog. The premise of OWOP  is that you select one pattern that you have made and you pledge to include that garment in your daily outfit for the week. It tends to be a lot easier if you select a pattern you have made more than once.

It didn’t sound like a great premise to me at first because well, why would I want to wear the same thing for 7 days when I have so many handmade things in my closet? Well, the beauty of this challenge, as I discovered, is that it really pushes you (at least it did for me) to find ways of overcoming wardrobe ennui. When wardrobe ennui starts to set in, the best way to beat it is with clever styling tricks. So I’d say that OWOP is more of a styling challenge rather than a wardrobe wearout challenge which inevitably happens with something like MeMadeMay.

I selected my beloved Granville shirt because for me the Granville is a fun style staple. Of course, I was also swayed by the fact that I have made 5 of them :-). Click here for all my Granville shirts makes.

Can I just say that I thoroughly enjoyed the challenge of having to style them everyday for a week. So much that by the time the 7 days were up, I still had an appetite for more. Big thanks to Hannah for taking the time to host this challenge. I was so inspired by the many people who participated and again my fabric and pattern wish list has grown!

So here are my ways of wearing the Granville shirt. Enjoy 🙂 Picture quality is not the best – some days there was better light than others.

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Keeping with light hues for a relaxed smart casual look.
granville
Sleek silhouette with a pencil skirt.
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Paired with a voluminous skirt. Need I say more?
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Paired with Butterick B5895 and a skinny bright belt for a pop of colour.
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My sleeveless chambray Granville with a vintage 80s skirt creates a simple look with light hues.  I chose the wider belt to match the shoes.
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Simply pairing with jeans and a slim belt works a treat.
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Tis the season for layers. The sleeveless Granville is ideal to fit under a blazer.
granville-plus-hollyburn
Double Sewaholic pairing – my denim Hollyburn goes perfectly with the chambray Granville (quite possibly my favourite because of the blue on blue action 🙂
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Another double Sewaholic day here, decidedly autumnal. I got a lot of compliments when I was wearing this outfit
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 Another favourite combo. Can you guess why? 🙂 Skinny silver belt and silver brogues complete the look.

I reckon I did OK with my sartorial choices but next time I would like to be bolder in my styling :-). I learnt that button-down shirts like the Granville can be dressed up or down and can be styled in countless creative ways.

Are you the proud owner of a Sewaholic Granville (or any) button-down shirt? How do you prefer to style yours? I’d love to hear!

Thanks for stopping by.

Mwah!

hila

Sewaholic Granville No. 5

Hello everyone,

 

It seems I cannot go 6 months without making another Granville shirt. So I present to you my 5th rendition. Made in a medium weight cotton fabric. I liked the green and fuschia floral print.

There is nothing new to add about this shirt except that I experimented with using snaps. I believed that it would be faster and easier than buttons and buttonholes – how wrong I was -_-.

Pictures ahoy……….

Sewaholic Granville

Continue reading

Sewaholic Granville No. 4

Hello everyone,

For me few things look more together than a quick pairing of jeans (preferably clean) and a well fitting shirt. Having discovered a shirt that suits my lifestyle, I may have made a 4th Granville shirt :-).

The floral fabric was purchased from Ebay over a year ago and I cant say what sort of fabric it it. Its definitely cotton – not fine enough to be lawn and not heavy enough to be quilting cotton.

I have already regaled with the details of fitting here and made 2 further ones in paisley and floral so there is not much else to add.

Perhaps construction wise I made it a lot faster. I can’t imagine making a shirt without using flat felled seams. There is an almost meditative joy in flat felling for me. For the buttons I used repurposed Crew Clothing Co from an old old old shirt.

Some pictures taken a while back.Summers End 15 383

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I quite simply love the Granville.

In other news I have realised that sewing is one of my favorite ways to refresh. When I am not doing things that I love, that feed my soul then…….well I’ve learned from experience that when I am depleted, I’m not the wife, mother, or friend I want to be. The more I feed my own soul, the more I have to give out.

The only problem is time. Since I can’t clone myself a la Multiplicity ( a great movie if you haven’t watched) or simply wish for more hours in a day – I must make the time.

We all know that doesn’t happen automatically. It needs to be planned, especially if you are responsible for the daily care of kids among other things. I find these stages of constant giving can be draining.  I haven’t yet quite figured out how I will do it but my thinking hat is on. Just the realisation was a huge shift for me. I now know I dont have to feel guilty about spending money on patterns or fabric or time in my sewing cave. Because it actually makes me a better person. On that note many thanks for reading this far into my ramblings.

Happy Sewing

 

Hila

XoX

Sewaholic Granville

Hello Everyone!

Carrying on from my last post about  Sewaholic Granville I have my first Granville in proper fabric! It took a couple of days to make this.

But first let me talk about the sleeves. Since the last one was sleeveless I didn’t go into any detail about the sleeves. I made a couple of changes to the sleeves. The reviews mostly said the sleeves were on the long side. I reduced sleeve length by measuring the sleeves on my favourite work shirt. The sleeve lost 1.5″ as a result. Another change I made was the cuff: rounded corners instead of points as I don’t like/ am not very good at poking out corners. My favourite work shirt has rounded corners too so it provided inspiration ;-).

Speaking of poking out corners, I Pinterest stumbled upon this collar method on Off The Cuff Sewing Style blog and gave it a go. Using this method produced my sharpest points to date. Check it out its very interesting. For the seam finishes I just overlocked the topstitched. I want to try flat felled seams though for next time. The buttons are from Mr SNS’s old Marks and Spencer shirt that has also adorned my Holyburn skirt pockets. It has served me well.

Moving on to the fabric. It is a busy print cotton poplin which handles like a dream. Responds so well to the iron. I love fabric like that. Its not too drapey but has enough structure to hold a crease. I bought it sometime in March specifically to make a Granville after seeing Pips’ (thegirlinateacup). I felt that it looked a little bit like Liberty albeit a cheap imitation at £5/m ;-). I also thought that a busy print without having to worry about pattern matching was called for. One sweet day I will make it in proper nauseatingly expensive Liberty!

Less words more pictures……

angular shot
Ta Dah!!
another back view
Back detail.
collar
My collar points!!
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Ridonkulously proud of my points!
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Placket and rounded cuff detail.
ep ep
Boom!
ey shot
Kids about to photo bomb me! Hell No!”!!!
front shot
I just really liked this shot
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Closer look at the back.
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I even monogrammed it 😉
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Rolled up sleeves – how I mostly wear shirts.
Granville side
Love the curved hem and how it hugs the body.
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Side view
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No now I am trying to be serious. Really!

Granville front happy

I love this shirt – can you tell?

Thanks again for stopping by and until next time Happy sewing!

Hila

xox

 

 

 

 

Hello Sewaholic Granville the Muslin

Hello everyone!

Hope you are all having a good week! Mine has been busy with work seeing little sewing action. I do have a post about my Sewaholic Granville muslins.

I bought this pattern along with the Oakridge blouse during the 33% off sale. Bargain!

I read pattern reviews and learnt that Sewaholic drafts specifically for a pear shaped figure. I knew that there would be a lot of work on my part to fit my as yet unfigured out body shape. I have no idea how I would classify my shape consequently I pay very little attention to that when buying patterns. I just see something I like and I go for it.

I digress, ok back to the good stuff….. 

Muslin numero 1 was made up in a stripey linen. I blocked off an entire weekend to fit until I got a working pattern. And it took that weekend and more!

I cut a size 4 and sewed it up. Enjoyed the process of the burrito yoke method.

Fit wise there was way too much fabric at the back but the bust was fine. Yeahy! No bust adjustments!

granvilee muslin
Left picture showing back with the pooling fabric – swayback. Pics 2 and 3 post adjustments.

For the back I had no idea what to do so I pinched out the side seams. When that didn’t work I took to Instagram and IG buddies came to the rescue. I took a wedge out of the center back in an unconventional way.

From what I gather (after I had done my unconventional fix) a traditional swayback adjustment is when you take the fabric out on the horizontal line but i took my wedge out vertically. I pivoted along grainline IYSWIM. It made sense at the time I was doing it and  it seemed to do the trick. I also pinched abou 1/4″ out the yoke piece. Once I did those adjustments I was happy enough with the fit to move on to the sleeves!

pattern pieces
Pattern pieces that had the most change were the side backs and the back center pieces. The original pattern is underneath the adjusted one.

The plackets were a real nightmare. I have had issues with those on both muslins so next time I am using a placket template I found through a Youtube tutorial here. I cut my losses and moved on to fitting the sleeves. They were fine but I didn’t like the way the sleeves kind of dropped off my shoulder. So I raised my sleeve cap ( still not to sure what this means but in my head it means pinching out the top bit of the sleeve so the seam is sitting on top of my shoulder). And that did the trick.

I then transferred my pattern changes. Once that was done I cut out the next muslin. End of weekend.

The next weekend I sewed up Numero 2. The light weight chambray was just divine! It has such a fantastic drape and handle – cutting and sewing it was such a pleasure. I get excited just recalling how lovely it was to work with ;-). Due to the placket issue I abandoned the sleeves and made it sleeveless with bias bound armholes.

So here it is! I am very happy with the fit. granville2granville Granvilee granville 3 granville back granville1

Verdict: “The harder the battle the sweeter the victory” ….it took a lot of time and effort. There were many times I wanted to give up but it is so worth it! I have cut out 2 more already that need to be sewn up. An awesome pattern if you dare to put in the graft to sort out the fit but if you are lucky enough to be pear shaped you might just get the perfect fit straight out of the packet!

Speaking of pear shape do you know what your body shape/type is?  I never noticed that Vogue McCalls patterns have body shape recommendations on them…Does it even matter? Or is being able to fit any pattern to your body the sewing skill to aim for? Share your thoughts down below!

Thanks for clicking by and as always happy sewing!

Hila

 

xox

Added 23/05/2015

Here is a diagram trying to show how I dealt with my pooling fabric. Its not a sanctioned method or anything its just what I did – in fact there are probably many thing wrong with how I did but I got lucky and it did the trick for this project. So I guess it a lucky fluke.back adjustment