Twisted Bustier Dress 03/2018 #113 #burdachallenge2018

 

Twisted Bustier Dress 03/2018 #113 

In March I decided to sew up this interesting shirt dress pattern from the March Issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. The March issue itself was not that awe inspiring to me and I struggled to select styles to sew. I ended up with 2 things this dress and the panel skirt here.

The shirtdress has a twisted bustier which piqued my interest – if only to see how it sews up. The skirt is wide with some sections of gathering and the bodice is accented with the casual twisted bustier that has the look of a bikini top. This style gives the traditional shirtdress a playful makeover. Here is the line drawing:

Twisted Bustier Dress 03/2018 #113

The fabric recommendations were lightweight cotton dress fabrics, with stretch blend. I used a shirting cotton that I bought from SewDown Dewsbury here. It has a twill weave which makes it reversible – its raspberry pink on one side and pale pink on the other side.

I thought the fabric could work even though it doesn’t necessarily have any stretch in it being a woven cotton. It is crisp and I felt that might look good with the full skirt.

The process of sewing it was quite easy. It is the featured sewing course in the issue which means it comes with full instructions supported by illustrations. The magazine instructions say the pattern pieces to be traced are shaded in but there is a printing error. It is actually the green lines of sheet A.

The only change I made was to remove the long sleeves and keep it sleeveless. In my head I was imagining this as a summer wear, especially with the pink fabric so I just couldn’t fit the long sleeve with the my vision. All I did was to not sew in the sleeve and used a satin bias binding instead to finish the armhole. It has side zip and it fit like a dream when I made it. I sewed size 38.

Twisted Bustier Dress 03/2018 #113
Twisted Bustier Dress 03/2018 #113
Twisted Bustier Dress 03/2018 #113
Twisted Bustier Dress 03/2018 #113
Twisted Bustier Dress 03/2018 #113
Twisted Bustier Dress 03/2018 #113
Twisted Bustier Dress 03/2018 #113
Twisted Bustier Dress 03/2018 #113
Twisted Bustier Dress 03/2018 #113

I love the dress – I positively feel like gliding and bouncing everywhere when I am wearing it! Here is my YouTube video review of the dress so you can see it in motion.

It so funny how the March issue was one that really struggled with and yet it has produced two really outstanding garments for me! Goes to show that sometimes you don’t have to be madly in love to try something.

Thanks so much for stopping by! Until next time, Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

This was a planned make for my  March #burdachallenge2018.

 

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One Shoulder Dress with Cutout 07/2017 #111 #burdachallenge2018

 

Up next is a dress that has been “marinating” for a while. I traced this out when the magazine came out as soon as I saw it because I was smitten with the one shoulder style and the peekaboo circle at the shoulder.

On a tangent – my shoulders are my absolute favourite part of my body. Yes they have a forward roll and they are just a bit broader than what is considered normal for a feminine look but I love them. And so the point is that any pattern that shines a light on the shoulder is almost always something I’ll love 🙂

Back to the pattern – the one shoulder dress is one of those rare instances where it was the styled model picture that caught my eye rather than the line drawing. In fact the line drawing is really rather unattractive :

BurdaStyle 07/2017 #101 One shoulder dress
Burdastyle 07/2017 #111 Dress – This is what caught my eye.

BurdaStyle 07/2017 #111

The front and back pattern pieces are more or less similar – given the size of the pieces and how much greaseproof paper they took up – I might have tried to use only one traced pattern piece of each. But its an experiance thing really. In future, if pattern pieces look similar to me I will check if they are the same and not bother with tracing another one. This has happened to me more times than I care to count.

Any how – this is a relatively simple pattern to sew up. The bit that goes across the chest is hemmed and the circular detail is finished with a casing. The sleeve seam is sewn right up to the point where it joins the casing before its artfully tucked into the casing. A tie band is then threaded through to make that oh so cut bow on the shoulder.

I was very happy with the ease of the instructions and I sewed it up in less than a couple of hours.

The fabric was bought from Fletchers Fabrics in Leeds Market last year. Its a John Kaldor jersey with vibrant red and blue flowers. I have washed it and its maintained its vibrancy.

The thing is I actually cut this out a few months ago before I did a major reorganisation of my sewing cave so I overenthusiastically got rid of a lot of scraps including the scraps of this John Kaldor. When I read the instructions on the sewing pattern pieces I missed the measured out bits that Burda sometimes has you mark straight onto to the fabric. The essence of the story is that though it may look like a design feature to have used some Art Gallery Fabric for the casing – it was actually because I had no access AT ALL to this exact John Kaldor fabric 🙂 . Still, I think it worked out well and looks good.

BurdaStyle 07/2017 #111 One shoulder dress

BurdaStyle 07/2017 #111 Dress – Art Gallery Jersey for the casing.

BurdaStyle 07/2017 #111

Wearing this dress is an interesting experience. It definitely exposes a lot of skin and perhaps it felt strange at first since I was just coming out of winter wherein covering up is de riguer. Apart from the novelty of feeling the breeze against my skin – I liked wearing this dress. The one flutter sleeve is very dramatic while the fact that it is made of jersey makes it very comfortable.

Foundation garment wise – I found that I couldn’t carry it off without a bra (I’d need to make a smaller size for that – my bust measurement is based on wearing a t shirt bra, without it I am quite flat chested). I have a strapless bra which worked just fine. I also realised that this could work well as a beach coverup, it goes on and off very easily.

Here is how I wear it – with a belt just like in the magazine style picture-

There is a top version of the pattern which I will try next in a smaller size so I can go braless with it.

 

 

Thanks so much for stopping by! Until next time, Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

This was an unplanned make for my  April #burdachallenge2018.

 

Tight Midi Dress BurdaStyle 01/2018 #118 #burdachallenge2018

Here is another dress that I like to call my “Go Bold or Go Home” dress. Its bright neon orange colour – the sort of orange that doesn’t blend into the background. Its a crepe jersey that I picked up at The Shuttle in Shipley for my SWAP2017 capsule. I found a better alternative for my SWAP and this had been chilling in my collection since.

When the Jan 2018 Burda dropped – I immediately knew that the orange crepe jersey would be perfect for the midi dress. Here is the style picture that hooked me:

Tight Midi Dress Burdastyle 01/2018 #118

 

I got excited that I didn’t fully check the recommended fabric part. This pattern actually calls for viscose crepe with elastine. My crepe jersey has fourway stretch and though more substantial than t-shirt jersey, it does have a lot of stretch. SO much so that I didnt include the CB zip.

I really struggled with sewing this dress. My initial ardour was dampened by an inability to comprehend the instructions. AT one point I put it aside and moved on but when I saw @AllisonCSewing’s version on Instagram, my ardour was renewed.

I tackled it with a single minded focus. Though I still did not get the instructions I just pinned it out. Using the magazine pictures I tried to pin it to best achieve what my eyes were seeing. This is what came out of it. The inside is a hot mess and its supposed to have a lined bodice but mine doesnt.

BurdaStyle 01/2018 #118

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Internal Back
Hot mess.
It was hard to capture the vividness of the orange because of all the extra light from the snow but this picture is the closest.

 

 

I really like this dress and I wore it layered with a roll neck top. I will be trying this again with a viscose crepe. Ideally I’d like to have a patterned fabric for the skirt and a solid for the bodice so it looks like a 2 piece. And I hope that the second time around the instructions will make sense to me!

Thanks so much for stopping by! Until next time, Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

This was a planned make for my January #burdachallenge2018.

 

Flounce Dress BurdaStyle 01/2017 #112A

 

I will preface this by saying how much I love this dress! So I will go right ahead and show the pictures before all the talking.

Burdastyle 01/2017 #112

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #112

 

Now, the talking bit.

The flounce dress includes a bold flounce to drape in front – which piqued my interest. Initially, I was going to use a cobalt blue crepe, however, at the last minute, I remembered this bright pink wool fabric that I had bought from Fabworks. It is a lightweight wool fabric, similar in texture to pashmina shawls. I found it washed well in a cold water wash and low tumble dry.

Sewing it up was a treat. The fabric is a joy to work with and responds beautifully to a steamy iron. Since the style doesn’t have a zipper – it sews up quite fast. The only tricky bit is when cutting out the pattern. The pieces have to be cut single layer and it is important to mark the seam numbers.

The pattern is a Burda Tall size which is drafted for taller persons. I selected my size based on my bust measurement which put me on size 76. I didn’t change the length of the dress but I did reduce the sleeve length by 2″ to maintain the bracelet length sleeve.

My favourite part of this dress is the flounces at the front. My least favourite is the back fastening. I am considering redoing that back closure and inserting an exposed zip instead. I wore it quite a lot these past 2 months but the back wasn’t an issue since I always wore it layered over a roll neck top. The other annoying thing is that the wool has started pilling where my coat would rub against it :-(.

I definitely want to make this again and do some contrast blocking with the flounces.

This was one of my January #burdachallenge2018 planned makes.

Thanks for stopping by!

Hila

Burda 06/2016 #101C Wool Jersey Dress

This is a dress I made for my February #burdachallenge2018 project. It wasnt a planned make – I reacquainted myself with the dark blue wool jersey that I bought from Fabworks in Dec 2016.

When I bought the fabric I recall that I wanted to make a Talviki sweater. Alas, with only 1 meter, it was not enough. Enter Burda 06/2016 #101C dress. Here is the line drawing which shows the simplicity of this pattern.

101-062016-m_large

 

Since 1m was not enough for the mini dress – a fact I realised after cutting out three of the four pieces; inventiveness meant that I used a navy ponte for the front yoke – a design feature bourne out of necessity.

For the neckline, I just folded it under and zig zagged. I think this is a finish you can get away with when the fabric is of a more substantive weight like the wool jersey.

The picture shows how I wore it most of the time- with tights and boots and sometimes with a roll neck as well. Wool jersey is very warm and cosy which served me well for the colder days. The pictures were taken during the big snow days that ground Britain to a halt.

Burdastyle 06/2016 #101

 

This is quite a versatile pattern – it works for summer with a lighter fabric like this one that I made here and can work for winter with a thicker fabric.

Thanks for stopping by!

Hila

Named Anneli Double Front T shirt maxi Dress as featured in Sew Now Magazine Issue 8

I am super, quite possibly uber, excited to finally be able to share this project. This is a pattern review I wrote for Sew Now magazine (Issue 8 circa May 2017) – a publication I really enjoy as it is a mix of sewing and fashion. For the review, I sewed up Named Patterns Anneli Tee Shirt dress in a delicious green jersey. Enjoy!

Everyone loves tee shirt dresses and I am not an exception. Named’s latest offering from their SS17 Playground collection is the Anneli double front dress. The pattern includes two variations: a straight, ankle-length jersey dress, and a casual T-shirt.

 

Named Patterns Anneli T Shirt Maxi Dress – showing some leg 🙂

 

The packaging screams exclusive brand and you certainly get what you pay for with this incredibly well drafted pattern. The instructions and sizing are excellent. This is achievable as a first time project. All the seams lined up beautifully – even the neckband snaps perfectly flat against my body. Super quick to sew up, it took only 1.5 hours from start to finish with no alterations at all. The double-layered front which creates an interesting wrap effect gives it a uniqueness and a point of difference, making it perfect for the warmer days of spring and summer. 

If I had to pick a word to describe the Milano jersey fabric – delicious! Verdant in colour and lush in texture, this gorgeous fabric is reminiscent of 2017 Pantone’s Colour of the year ‘Greenery’. It feels soft and luxurious next to the skin.sew-now-photo-shoot-065sew-now-photo-shoot-104sew-now-photo-shoot-113sew-now-photo-shoot-126

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Trying a new pose – its called “Running to catch the bus”
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Perfect neckband lies flat

sew-now-photo-shoot-148

 

I love this casual and easy to wear dress. Minimalist with a directional edge, Anneli is effortlessly stylish. I paired my Anneli dress with hoop earrings, chunky bracelet and a pair of thong sandals— and I was all set!  I love that I can stay warm with an oversized baggy sweater. Or get sporty with a denim jacket and trainers, or bohemia with a statement necklace and a floppy hat or throw on some cute flats for a more polished look…..endless possibilities.

I have to say that Named understand the appeal of the tee shirt dress. They are comfortable and when we feel comfortable, we feel confident. Anneli ticks many boxes for me; it is fashionable AND feels good to wear AND delivers on comfort AND is quick to sew. A new favourite!

 

Thanks so much for stopping by and until next time – Happy Sewing!!!!

Peace and love,

Hila

PS. It was a really windy day when we did the photoshoot so apologies for my VPL – it couldnt be helped!

Another Giselle Maxi Dress for Indie Pattern Month 2017

July is Indie Pattern Month over at The Monthly Stitch. Its a month set aside for celebrating indie patterns. I always the challenges set by Kat and Mel and this year is no exception. Week 1 is dresses and I made yet another Giselle maxi dress using fabric bought from my first Yorkshire Spoolette meet up in Feb 2016 <link here>. Tangentially, I have used all but 1 of the fabrics I bought then and that’s great for me :-). I digress, lets get to it ……..

Can I just start off by saying that I love this dress! OK. So when Kat and Mel announced the themes I was pleased to see that dresses were in Week 1. It didn’t take me long at all to decide on which indie pattern dress to make – Giselle by Kate and Rose Patterns.

I have made 3 of them ( here and here) before but none in a rayon challis fabric. The fabric is irresistibly soft and I  very nearly made pyjamas with it. It also gets double points for stash busting as it has been in the stash since Feb 2016 :-).

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Since I have sewn this before fitting was not an issue. I made the version with the under bust yoke but sleeveless. The sleeves and neckline were finished with cotton bias binding.

This is a quick dress to sew up. The skirt panels are basically rectangles that are gathered and sewn together. I always add in seam pockets to this pattern as it comes without pockets and that’s my only complaint (a very minor one 🙂). I finished my seams with the overlocker.

Its a loose fit easy to wear dress. Very swishy and its one of those dresses that always has me on my best posture. You know the sort of dress you feel like you are letting it down if you slouch or don’t stand proud :-).

Thanks for stopping by!

Peace and love,

Hila

Burda 06/2016 #101C Maxified Dress

I made this dress using a birdy fabric that I had bought some time ago but was quite precious about it. The challenge was just perfect – it made me brave enough to cut into the birds :-). I had bought the viscose jersey from B&M Fabrics in Leeds.

I wanted a simple pattern with few seam lines to maximise the impact of the birds. Enter Burda 06/2016 #101C dress. Here is the line drawing which shows the simplicity of this pattern.

101-062016-m_large

The dress is meant to be a mini but I maxified it for full impact 🙂 Sewing it up was so fast and took less than an hour to sew up. I opted to sew a neckband for a t-shirt look.

The dress is so comfortable and I love it.

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Burda 06/2016 101C
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Burda 06/2016 101C

I can’t help but feel like lifting off and flying when wearing this dress. Thanks for this challenge Kat and Mel! Now, I need to go finish my Apron challenge make :-).

Thanks for stopping by!

Hila

Lekala 4437: A Christmas Day Dress

Season’s greetings to all. I hope you are all enjoying Christmas Day. I am thoroughly bushed and looking forward to bedtime. We have just finished bedtime for the kids and they were so tired that they fell asleep while stories were still being read – a rare occurrence.

I thought I may have time to share a quick post on my little red dress that I wore for today. Its a dress made for The Little Red Dress Challenge which was created by RunningNStyle. Basically anyone who wanted to could make a red dress for the festive season. This challenge fitted in with my plans so I took it up.

I rather ran out of time and decided to use a Lekala pattern as I know I dont need to make a toile. The pattern I chose was Lekala 4437. Here is the line drawing

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Lekala 4437

I bought the fabric from B&M Fabrics during SewUpNorth. Its a stretch fabric that is just slightly lighter in weight than ponte. Its almost got the look of kids polo shirts , you know , the ones for school. Since it has stretch I omitted the zip. I sewed it all up on the overlocker except for attaching the collar facing. The collar facing is interfaced (I used normal interfacing) – though in future I will use a heavier weight interfacing  to give the collar more structure.

I wore it all day today until after our huge festive dinner where I indulged to the extent that I looked nearly 5 months pregnant :-). Constructionwise – it does have a lot of curved seams but I didnt struggle with these. Everything lined up beautifully.

red-dress-vlog-162
Lekala 4437

red-dress-vlog-176red-dress-vlog-181

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I like the collar but it needs more work

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red-dress-vlog-193
Curved seams

I am keen to try this pattern again with more time to work on making the collar better and I want to make it in a woven fabric. The collar is the feature I liked the most about this dress. Its a dress that looks good on me but I know it could be much better sewn. The instructions were really quite good on this pattern as well.

Needless to say Mr SNS really likes this dress as well which is always a bonus :-)!

Thank you so much for stopping by my little corner of the interwebs. I appreciate you. Until next time – Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

Burda Downloadable Lydia T shirt pattern review

I made this Lydia T-shirt – it was one of the first downloadable products I ever bought. Its only 79p so it’s a good deal. I cut the size 38 which is my Burda size.

sideview_original_large
Burda Lydia #3197 T-shirt

It’s a basic, long-sleeve t-shirt. The main difference with most other t-shirts I am familiar with is the neckline construction. This one has facings – though this picture above doesn’t show the facing version – the instructions are just like for a facing you would find on a woven top. The sleeve is supposed to be set in but I prefer flat construction with jersey fabrics.

I made this out of pure curiosity to see how the neck would turn out. I used knit fusible interfacing for the facing pieces. After sewing them to the neckline I understitched.  I gotta say I am quite impressed so far. The neck line is very neat and I love that it looks good enough to wear with a smart skirt and pass for smart workwear. I will have to see how it performs after a few washes before trying out this technique again though. Have you tried finishing the neckline on a knit top with a facing?

Fabric wise- I used a John Kaldor cotton jersey that I bought from Fletcher’s Fabrics in Leeds Market. Its left over from a Moneta dress I made around the same time. It was an utter delight to work with this fabric; as is wearing it. The comfort level on this top is very high. All the hems were done with a twin needle. Shoulders were stabilised with fusible bias tape which I also used around the neckline so it wouldn’t stretch out.

Pictures…

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Burda Lydia T Shirt
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Burda Lydia T Shirt – back

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Verdict: A solid t-shirt pattern that gains extra points for having a great price point.

Thanks for stopping by. Until next time happy sewing !

Peace and love,

Hila

KNITWEEK2016 Pt 5 Marion by Andi Satterlund

Hello chums,

Welcome back to my KnitWeek2016 series of posts. Part 5 is my Marion cardigan in mustard.  First I want to say thank you so much for all the helpful comments  on my previous post where I mentioned knitted garment fit issues. At least I know where to start now with all the resources mentioned.

Marion is a seamless and cropped cardigan with 3/4 length sleeves. The body is knit in one piece, starting with the upper back. The fronts are picked up from the back cast on edge, and everything gets connected when the underarms are cast on. Sleeve stitches are picked up from the armholes, and short row shaping is used to create set-in sleeves.

So, I have made this cardigan  before <link here>. It will always have a special spot in my heart as the first knitted garment I made for myself plus I learnt so much when I knit that first Marion. I still wear it – though mostly on weekends now due to the pilling. When I finished the first Marion I was determined to do it all again but perfectly right the second time.

Somehow other projects got in the way  but around June 2015, I decided that I wanted a yellow cheerful cardigan to go with the many navy blue items I was sewing up. This yarn also happened to be on sale at Loveknitting.com. Its called Drops Paris:  a soft but sturdy 100% cotton yarn. I was sold on this line “Spun from multiple thin strands, it creates a fabric which is breathable and cool to wear on those warmer days“. So I bought 6 balls in mustard. Its out of stock at loveknitting.com now but I did a quick google and found it at woolwarehouse.com.

Here is a copy of my Ravelry Project notes:

20 June. Cast on the small size. Last time made Medium and felt a bit loose. My gauge was off by half a stitch but I wont let that bother merelaxed. Hopefully it turns out ok. So far so good.
5 Aug 2015
Halfway through the decrease set. Going slowly due to lack of time.
20 Aug 2015
Argh! The armhole too big. have to unravel so I can repick at armhole using the smallest size. The yarn seems to grow with weight.
22 Aug 2015
Ok so I calculated I need to pick 46 stitches at armhole.

It used up 6 balls of yarn exactly. I was very excited when I started this project and it knit up relatively fast but I had issues with the yarn. I seem to recall that its quite a heavy yarn – I mean as the fabric grew – it sort of dropped a lot from the weight of the yarn. And it looked  droopy. I  really worried that the rope cable would not be distinct – it wasn’t a fun yarn to do cables with (I guess that why I should swatch the cable pattern as well – I made a swatch but just in stockinette). Initially the armhole came out far too big so I had to unravel and recast using the size for the smallest armhole. The instructions are very well written and easy to follow. There is a cable chart and written cable instructions – I cant read cable charts so I really like that about Andi’s patterns.

Again I lost steam around the time I bound off and it stayed in its carrier bag until October. Once I picked it up again it took me 30  mins to weave in all ends and set up for blocking. I wet blocked it and that transformed it. The yarn looked completely different once blocked. A note on this yarn – it had a lot of colour run and I had to drain out the water about 4 times before it ran clear.

I love it but I wont be knitting with this yarn again. It wasn’t as joyful an experience as I have had with other yarns. I checked out what other people use this yarn for and it looks like its mostly great for home interior projects, like tea towels, blankets and toys. Its a case of using the wrong yarn for this project. It doesn’t feel nearly as nice to wear as my brown Miette either – again because the yarn is not as soft.

fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-1148fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-1149mustard-marion-back-viewmarion-frontmustard-marion-cardigan

The fit isn’t too bad but there is still that swayback issue. It looks like I will be getting a book …or 2 and throwing myself into fitting knitted garments. Someone mentioned Amy Herzog and I have looked that up in the library and unfortunately they have none. Looks like it will have to be either Amazon or Craftsy. And in future I think I will sew buttons on the dress form for more accuracy.

I still really like this pattern and will be casting another one next year but I want to get the fit spot on next time. I like that the first one has so many errors in it but this one is a huge improvement. I am excited to knit the 3rd one – surely it will uber…..?

KNITWEEK2016 POSTS

Part 1: Organising my knitting stash

Part 2: Chuck Sweater

Part 3 : Antler Cardigan

Part 4 : Miette Cardigan

Thanks again for stopping by this little corner of the interwebs. Until next time Happy Knitting!

Peace and love,

Hila