Vogue V9112

I actually first made this toile in June 2015 – I know because I have a log of the picture of the muslin.

Vogue V9112 is an asymmetrical seam detail dress design by Marcy Tilton. Loose-fitting, pullover, sleeveless dress has single-layer, pleated, stand-up collar, seam detail, side pockets, bias neck and armhole facings, shaped hemline, and narrow hem. Wrong side shows on collar and hemline.

Here is the cover picture:

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….and the line drawing which shows all the lovely intricate seams:

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I was put off this pattern by how much ease it had after making the toile. I cut the size medium based on the pattern size recommendations (this was before  I figured out the lack of finished garment measurements). Needless to say it sat around in the UFO box for a while then I picked it up again determined to fix it as I liked it in principle. However, I was very ruthless in removing ease and ended up with something that barely resembles what the designer intended. I am okay with that though as I made it work for me.

I took it in by a lot on the sides and the back seam. I omitted the pockets as this was a toile. Although now, with hindsight, I should have just added the pockets since its turned into something wearable. Being linen – it if of course lovely to wear. It’s the sort of thing I will throw on when its nice and hot and I want to be unfettered.

I will  be giving the pattern another go definitely – in linen again maybe with some Sashiko embroidery on one of the curved pieces.

 

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The original size was quite baggy on me.
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Vogue V9112 Gathered curved hem
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V9112 Collar detail

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Vogue V9112

The final result is something much more fitted at the bust and loose-fitting everywhere else. I finished the armholes with bias binding. The only thing I need to change now is the colour – I am thinking of dyeing it a deep violet colour.

Verdict – worthy of a second shot at it because despite the fit issues (based on personal preferences only) I still like it. I do need to remember to be careful when cutting it out as it is all cut single layer – I got away with it because I was using a plain solid fabric but with directional fabric I would have messed up.

Thanks for stopping by and until next time, happy sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

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SWAP2017: An Over and a Lower

My SWAP has 4 overs which are :

  1. Fitted shirt in shocking pink.
  2. Embroidered fitted top
  3. Knitted red and white jumper
  4. White tie back top
  5. A ‘rogue’ dress

For this post I am looking at the pink fitted shirt and the yellow maxi skirt.

Fitted Shirt

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Sewaholic Granville and I got back a long way. See here <link>. Its a tried and true patterns that I love.

I had already seen the shocking pink fabric at the Shuttle in Shipley before deciding on the SWAP colours. Once my colours were settled, I was forced to go back to The Shuttle (I want to be clear on this – I did NOT want to go to a fabric shop but in the spirit of SWAP I had to – I was a reluctant  fabric shopper – those other fabrics followed me home – I was reluctant but I am so proud of myself for my restraint). Luckily it was still there when I went back and I bought 3 meters of it. Its  a stretch cotton sateen that was interesting to work with.

I cant say its been my best sewing experience ever. I found that the sateen had a strong needle memory and I couldn’t unpick the fabric without creating a visual disturbance. I quickly caught on though and started using wonder clips instead of pins where necessary. I also needed to use a walking foot to prevent it stretching out as I sewed. It also why I opted not to topsticth the button placket.

Because of the stretch nature of the fabric it is very comfortable. Pictures do not do this fabric justice. Its is very bright pink. As in incredibly in your face unapologetic pink. It makes me happy.

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For the maxi skirt I used the skirt portion of the Anna dress. I love this pattern and have made it several times already. The fabric was hard to come by. I wanted a really bright sunshine yellow. I did something I haven’t done before – ordering loads of swatches. I must say that made me feel very grown up indeed. I eventually found the right colour and weight from an Ebay shop called (apologies in advance to any brexiters reading this) EuroFabrics. Its a very beautiful high quality stretchy crepe with viscose fabric that has a micro texture. It has a bit of give on the cross grain which makes for a very comfortable wear.

I sewed up the skirt but while checking fit I realised that I wanted pockets. I try to add pockets where I can in a way that doesn’t interfere too much with the design lines. Because this skirt is close fitting at the hip, in seam pockets would not have worked. So I decided to draft quasi-patch pockets that attach at the princess seams. I felt like this was the most sympathetic addition of pockets.

I still have the option of cutting out the thigh slit but as yet am undecided. I quite like it as is for now. Initially the plan was to add a narrow waistband but I didnt like after the initial basting – it made it even  more high waisted that I was envisioning. So it was Petersham ribbon to the rescue!!!  The only fly in the ointment , however is that I did think it needed lining but when I wore it for pictures – I could see my panty lines – as I grow older I get less keen on VPLs on my own self. I have since bought some lining to add which is an easy fix. I will only line the upper third of the skirt. The other option is to go commando when in this skirt and……. mmm……..again as I get older I am less keen on the whole going commando thing 🙂

Pictures…..

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SWAP2017 Granville Shirt and Anna Maxi skirt

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So here we are reader, the first 2 of my 11 SWAP2017 blogged. Whats next? The orange skirt I think….undecided

Thanks so much for stopping my little corner of the interwebs. Until next time,

Happy sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

Instagram and Vogue V1314: An Unexpected Rescue

I joined Instagram (IG) with a very sceptical mind. I kept my eye out for the catch. Having tried Facebook very briefly when it first came out and disliked it intensely, Twitter as well which I didn’t and still don’t get – I was of the opinion that social media just wasn’t for me. But slowly my favourite bloggers were also going onto IG and touting how amazing this platform is.

As a general rule I like to think of myself as open-minded enough to try out new things and experiences (at least once). Trying to live by what I preach – if my kids had a penny for every time I said to them “But you haven’t tried it!” they’d be millionaires by now. So I went ahead and joined IG in Nov 2015. I had no idea what a hashtag was or how things worked on there. Since then my affair with IG has been on/off with the on being more prevalent. There are times when I do get annoyed at the proliferation of an overly promoted new pattern or event but its all part of the experience (it’s a minor irritation at best). But it is quite a helpful place for info on patterns, sewing or just about anything really. And I think this is where the IG and the sewing community meets to create a confluence of energy, creativity, inspiration………its a wonderful place.

For example, have your eye on a fabric that you MUST have but can’t find it in your regular haunts? Not to worry IG buddies are the best at telling you where to get it. Want to buy something from the US but postage is prohibitive; IG buddies tend to offer to pick it up for you and send slow cheaper mail (you pay P&P of course). Got a pattern you are not sure about? IG is always full of opinion. Cant decide which buttons to use; IG can help. Have a RTW inspiration garment you want to sew but dont know if there is a similar sewing pattern; Ig to the rescue. Missing pattern piece; IG to the rescue. I could go on and on.  But sometimes you don’t even know that you need rescuing before IG comes to the rescue. Which brings me to Vogue 1314….

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Vogue V1314

As part of a sewing challenge I was doing last year the prompt was “On my table” and I posted this…..

Immediately my IG buddies warned me about the sizing problem with it – It runs large they said. Thanks, said I……… I had already cut it out. They are right I said, after basting it to check fit. The ruching was drooping which looked unpleasant.

I cut away about 5/8″ from each side seam and basted to check fit – I liked what I saw without the ruching so I left it at that. I dithered over whether to add the sleeves or not and my OH weighed in with ‘no sleeves’ which is what I did. Lets pin this here for now and look at some pictures.

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Vogue 1314
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Vogue 1314
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Vogue 1314
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Vogue 1314

Fabric is a John Kaldor ity jersey that I bought ages ago from Fletchers Fabrics in Leeds Market. I have loved this fabric for so long and was too sacred to cut into it but I am trying. Readers I am really trying to use my precious fabric. Now this is beautiful lightweight jersey with a slight sheen to it. It also has the characteristic of showing up every simple cellulite dimple, muscle clench and panty lines. So I had to line it with power mesh and wow – what a difference that makes. I went from Nicki Minaj to Kim Kardashian…(maybe not that much of a difference. But I think you get what I mean). The mesh gives it a nice smooth lining and feels really nice on. It also meant that I have clean finish armholes. The neckline is finished with a band. I hemmed it with a twin needle which stretched it out, so I cut it off and left it unhemmed since this doesn’t unravel. The hem definitely needs stabilisation before hemming.

Sorry for the long rambling post but the story behind this dress was so integral to how it turned out that I wanted to share it. I associate this dress with the awesomeness of IG – it’s not perfect at all but there are a lot of great aspects to IG communities with much less of the negatives that come with other things like Twitter and Facebook (IMHO).

Verdict: I like this dress a lot (truth be told it makes me feel like I have a big booty which in turn makes me feel guilty that I like the feeling of having a big booty which I think makes me very unfeminist —argh TMI).

Right. So yes I like this dress and will make another one in the next size down with the ruching at the sides. The relative simplicity of the design lends itself well to loud prints and I do love a loud print. It has the potential of becoming a TNT.

And…back to social media… Do you like it for your sewing? Do you prefer other social media platforms? or better yet share a sewing story where social media helped out. G on, we’d love to hear it. 🙂

Until next time,

Happy sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

Marfy 3879

I made a Marfy pattern! Its a big deal for me because I have idolised Marfy patterns and Vogue Paris Original vintage patterns for a long time. I am yet to find a VPO pattern I can afford so I bought a Marfy pattern in lieu. Marfy are a small Italian pattern making company that releases a whole year’s collection of patterns around January. They have very unique and interesting designs but they come with no instructions or line drawings. After buying 3879 earlier this year I procrastinated as I honestly didn’t think I had the skill set to make it. I sat on it but I got tired of  my pity party so I reminded myself it wasnt heart surgery and got on with it!

Some background…..I ordered the pattern via email but it can be done over the phone as well. At the time that I ordered this particular pattern wasnt yet on the website. The website has a small selection of patterns to buy online but the catalog has over 200 designs in it. If the pattern you want is not on the site, it can be ordered via telephone or email. My orders from Marfy have both times arrived within 1 week of placing the order.

I made 2 for the Pattern Review One Pattern Many Looks competition. My review is below after the pictures.

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Pattern Description:
Trendy dress with curved-seam bodice emphasized by animal print on plain fabric.

Pattern Sizing:
Marfy size 42, 44, 46. I used size 42.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
This was my first time using a Marfy pattern. I ordered the paper pattern which is made out of a durable type of paper (onionskin I think).
Marfy patterns do not come with instructions. They hand clip each piece, in a single size. They don’t include seam and hem allowances. They do come with all the notches and letters to put the pieces together. You find the picture of patterns on the website or in the catalogue to use as reference for how it is supposed to look.

This is why I rate this for advanced. They are designed for the experienced person in mind. This was relatively simple to put together – the front has 3 pieces and I sewed up the semi-circle first then the longer curved seam with the corner. The corner was a bit tricky but taking my time really helped.

I had to watch out for how I cut out the pattern pieces because all the 3 front pieces had to be cut single layer. It was important to make sure that I was cutting with the pattern piece on the right side of the fabric – I messed up once and that was enough to make me more careful after that.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I loved the curved seams – they look so elegant and fluid giving the dress a lot of interest. I knew that colour blocking would look great with this design.

Fabric Used:
For both dresses I used ponte knit fabric. The ponte was thick enough to handle the curved seams without a lot of puckering.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The grey/snakeskin dress has no pattern alterations done to it. I had to take in at the waist for better shaping. The pattern comes with facing pieces for the neck and armhole. I didn’t like how they made the armhole chunkier after sewing one side so I left them off and finished with a twin needle instead.

The navy/pink was the second make and it has a couple of alterations to it :

  • I added sleeves to it. Marfy 3879 is a sleeveless pattern and as such I had to use my sleeve sloper which fit without fuss.
  • I lowered the neckline by 1/2″ and widened by 3/8″.
  • I also took it in slightly at the waist for better shaping.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes I would sew it again. It’s such a well drafted pattern that I am convinced Marfy patterns are worth it. The only caveat is that they are meant for advanced sewers hence the no instructions or line drawings.

I see more versions of this dress(tops and tunics too) in my future – I didn’t have time to make third in different tones of the same colour with some gold piping on the curved seams. It’s quite a versatile pattern that actually sewed up quickly.

Conclusion:
I really quite love how these 2 dresses turned out. I am pleased with the fit and the look. Taking my time to sew the curved seam really paid off and I find myself staring down my dress mesmerized by the seams. Plus being ponte, they are very comfortable to wear. I also like the detail I put into the navy/pink one with the hem and neckline by using navy thread on the navy bits and pink thread on the pink bits. Makes me feel like a grown up seamstress

Thanks for reading and I hope you found this useful.

Hila.

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The fit was spot on for me and I know I will be buying more patterns now that I have tried them out. These here are some patterns from the current catalog that I am drawn to – the darts are eyecatching dont you think? Have you tried out Marfy patterns?

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