SWAP2017 Pt 6: By Hand London Anna Dress in Frida Kahlo

Last year I was working full steam on a SWAP2017 wardrobe. You can read some of the previous SWAP2017 posts here <link here>.

This is the fifth garment that I made for the SWAP2017 capsule – an endeavour which started in 2016! I did finish this in time for the April 2017 deadline but for some reason its taken its time to get to the blog.

The capsule plan was to have one statement-y dress.

My SWAP2017 “Vision Board”

There was a limit on how many patterns you could use – the max was 8 patterns for 11 garments. I used the Anna dress because it could be easily modified.

The trick was to find a fabric that I loved but that could go with all the other pieces. After much searching, I eventually landed on the Frida y Catarina fabric in a blue background on EBay. To say I fell for this fabric is an understatement. I freaking love this fabric and consequently the dress.

I have made the Anna dress three times before. I have not made it using a medium weight quilting cotton like this Alexander Henry fabric. Ruth’s Core Couture tutorial was a godsend. She shows with well-detailed instruction and rationale how to prevent neckline gaping that can be an issue with wide V necklines. You can check out the tutorial here – a must-read for anyone who has ever been exasperated with a neckline that won’t lay flat.

Stay tape in the neckline of the BHL Anna Dress

The results more than speak for themselves. I have since used that same approach on many more projects with great results.

 

When we went to the US last year for my FIL’s 70th birthday celebrations I took it along. Its one of what I like to call “The Magnificent 3” dresses. Whenever I wear any of those 3, I get a lot of compliments. I will probably write up a post about them and why I think they get so many compliments – advance spoiler – it is not about the dress per se. Anyway, I digress pictures.

BHL Anna Dress on location in Central Park, New York – hence the walking sandals ūüôā
BHL Anna Dress

The fabric is a border print and I was not keen to cut into the print. I cut the bodice on the cross grain so that the Frida print was only at the hem. The skirt pieces are rectangles with darts added. The darts matched up with the bodice darts. That created the A line shape of the skirt. I contemplated adding pockets but decided that the design lines were more important. My problem is that I do actually use my pockets heavily and there are some styles that look and feel odd to me when the pocket is in use.

The hem is exactly at the selvedge edge. I wanted the maximum length I could get. It used 3 meters of fabric with very little scraps. The benefit of quilting cottons like the Alexander Henry ones is that they do wash and keep the colours well. I imagine that in time, with more washes, the fabric will get softer. The thought brings a smile to my face as I hope to be wearing this dress for decades.

Picture was taken in May this year – with my frohawk and post SticthRoom Sewcial so my eyebrows were neat ūüôā
I love the vibrant orange flowers on the fabric.  BHL Anna Dress
Power pose….LIKE A BOSS!!! BHL Anna Dress
BHL Anna Dress

Last week on Saturday I went to see the Frida Kahlo exhibit in London – I believe that’s what prompted me to finally write about this dress on the blog. I am still processing my thoughts on the experience and will be writing a post about it soon.

Back to the SWAP2017 – I still have more of the garments to write about and those posts should be ready…..soonish :-).

In the meantime, I do have a video on my YouTube channel if you’d like to see this dress in motion.

Thanks for stopping by this corner of the interwebs.

Peace and love,

Hila

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SWAP2017 Pt 5: Ansterick Holsten Sweater and an Experiment in pre washing yarn

Last year I was working full steam on a SWAP2017 wardrobe. You can read some of the previous SWAP2017 posts here <link here>:

For one of my uppers РI opted for a  knitted item. The inspiration was based on a Bella Freud 1970 Jumper . This jumper retails at £300.

The pattern I used was the Holsten jumper by Anstrick. 

Once I had selected the pattern the next challenge was finding the bright red yarn colour. Someone on Ravelry recommended Cascade Ultra Pima Cotton DK yarn. The yarn has a lovely lustre to it and it had a lipstick red shade that looked promising. I ordered several balls of different reds from various brands but this was the one that nailed it. Luckily they also had the black and white of the same yarn.

The next challenge was how to prevent bleeding. From the many posts that I read where people had knitted with red and white or black and white Рthere was a bleeding issue when the garment was washed. After ruminating on the issue for a while I thought that maybe I could try pre-washing the yarn before knitting to reduce any bleeding potential in the same way we prewash fabric for sewing.

Luckily the yarn comes in skeins. My first attempt was a bit of a travesty because I didnt do anything to prevent the yarn from tangling. On my second attempt, I loosely tied the skein at 4 different points so that I could easily reconstitute the skein.

The prewashing process involved filling the sink with hot water and soaking for about an hour, gently wringing the water out and repeating until the water ran clear. For the red this took approximately 4 soakings, the black took 6 soakings to run clear. I also did the white twice because I needed it to have a similar texture to the black and red.

After drying out the skeins I then had to wind them into yarn balls. There were a lot of online tutorials to help. I used a kitchen roll tube and spent several hours balling up the skein. It was tedious but I think it was worth it in the end. 

Dryng the prewashed yarn

Pre washed and un washed side by side
Prewashed on left. Has a ‘fuller’ look and feel. Unwashed on right.

 

I swatched with 3.75, then 3,5 but it was 3,25 that got the correct stitch gauge. I should have done some mods since the pattern calls for fingering 4 ply but my yarn was DK. However, I still do not understand these things so I went on ahead with the proviso that I would be trying it along the way to see what I need to change. On the whole this worked, I think I managed to get away with it :-).

This pattern knits up quite quick since it all stokinette stitch. It was also a great opportunity for me improve my Portuguese knitting skills. I think the fit is quite good. Yarn feels comfy against my skin.

The prewashing seems to have worked. When I washed this there was no bleeding.

And here I am wearing it last year.

The pattern instructions were very clear and well written. I learnt some new techniques like the saddle stitch for the raglan sleeve. It may not be the best but I had a great time knitting this. I’d have liked to do add in a HILA motif on the white section but my skills are not yet there. I am still very happy with this jumper.

Finally, I used just under 5 skeins of red and less than 1 skein each of black and white. The total cost of the yarn was £50.48. Not bad considering the inspiration retails at £300. Win!

Thanks for stopping by my little corner of the internets. Until next time, happy knitting!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for stopping by this corner of the interwebs.

Peace and love,

Hila

SWAP2017 Pt 4: Sewaholic Hollyburn & Granville Shirt

Hi guys!

Last year I was working full steam on a SWAP2017 wardrobe. You can read some of the previous SWAP2017 posts here <link here>:

For my lower, I had the Hollyburn skirt which was to be made in an orange bright orange fabric.

I bought the fabric from Fabworks. It’s a cotton twill weave which also has a geometric¬†pattern. It has spandex it with some (about 3% stretch on the cross grain).

Instead of a facing, I used Petersham ribbon on the waistband. Pink satin bias binding on outside

Sewaholic Granville modified –

The fabric is linen dyed a navy blue using Dylon washing machine dye. This was one of the few successful results from my experiments with dyeing fabric.

The embroidery is from Kate N Rose patterns which I had bought over 3 years ago but hadnt ever bothered with it. It’s called Faraway Garden. When Kate was helping me with inspiration pictures I remembered that I had it somewhere in my digital files. Unfortunately marking dark fabric was challenging. Chalk faded away easily and my Frixion pens were not very easily visible. Patience is not one of my strong virtues and eventually, I reached a point which I just wasn’t¬†bothered. But that’s¬†ok – I realised that I am not yet at the beautiful intricate embroidery stage. That’s¬†okay.

I eliminated the center front button placket. The front is sewn together¬†with a flap for snaps of some sort (am yet¬†to do this). I made it sleeveless by raising the armscye by 1/2″ and narrowing the shoulder by 3/4″. This makes it have a closer fit around the armhole. I bias bound the armholes using same linen fabric.

The idea was to have further embroidery on the front and back but seriously, it’s not my thing. I should have got appliques and in future, this is what I will do. As far as embroidery goes – I need to walk before I can run :-).

I am very happy with these 2 garments, more so because they are 2 of my most beloved patterns that I have made more than a dozen of collectively. Pictures….be warned the orange is really bright :-). Pictures were taken in May 2017.

Sewaholic Patterns Hollyburn Skirt and Granville Shirt

Guess the song from the dance pose ūüôā

 

Thanks for stopping by this corner of the interwebs.

Peace and love,

Hila

Retro Vibes Coco Dress – Tilly and the Buttons

Coco dress 4.0

This past winter I caught¬†a bit of the Coco bug. It’s an easy super quick make – I totally blame SewChet for her beautiful¬†stag print Coco <link here> which reminded me of the versatility of this pattern :-).

I have had this quilted ponte for a long while now (bought from Jacks Fabrics in Leeds Market) and its one I had set aside on the¬†“sew or donate within 1 month” pile. Luckily it got sewn. The thing with this fabric is that it’s a workhorse – I have made my girls sweater dresses <link here> and they got washed loads over the 15 months my girls wore them. Despite all the laundering the fabric didn’t¬†bobble or pil¬†horribly so I knew that this will be a good workhorse dress.

To add to the sixties vibe I was getting off the fabric I interfaced the collar band so it would stand tall and proud in a contrasting black ponte.

I have much love for this dress and its been worn loads this past winter.

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Tilly and the Buttons Coco Dress

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Verdict: I likey – a lot. Comfy, warm and makes me feel stylish ūüôā Just like my other Coco dress too.

Thanks for stopping by my little corner of the interwebs. Until next time – happy sewing all!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

Coco Dress 3.0 – Tilly and the Buttons

Hello chums,

I hope you are all enjoying December and all the festivities that come with this time of the year. Today I decided to start this post with a throwback to my second Coco top blogged in August 2014.

 

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Couture Coco

 

For some reason I didnt get round to making another Coco because I went off it. Basically this top above is one of the garments that got given away when I cleared out my wardrobe sometime ago. It just didn’t fit me well and felt baggy.

Retrospectively I now understand that there were 2 things at play here:

  1. Poor bra selection. I was still breastfeeding in 2014 and wearing bras that I had bought when my oldest was breastfeeding. They were eight years old, quite saggy with poor support (at the time I didnt think so though). My bust measurement was off because of this.
  2. Once I stopped breastfeeding my extra bust inches were all lost and I was back to my modest B cup. This meant that the top looked and felt even baggier.

Cut to more than 2 years later and I now wear better fitting bras (thanks to M&S free bra fitting service) – I tried out the Coco again. At SewUpNorth I met Pam who was wearing her striped Coco top with a funnel neck. I was quite taken by her top and the seed was planted.

Sewing it up was so incredibly quick and everything went together well. I had to cut it 2 sizes down from the 2014 version. The blister ponte is a lovely silvery grey with black embossed leaves. It has a nice texture and is very comfortable.

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Tilly and The Buttons Coco Dress

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Back view
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Funnel neck detail
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Sleeve cuffs.

I was pleased to find that I loved the fit of the dress when I tried it on. Perfect winter wear with tights and boots. I will be joining Tialys and making loads more Cocos!

I think if I ever had to recommend an easy beginner friendly pattern this would be it. I even did a Youtube vlog on it just after I finished it (at bottom).

Thanks for stopping by and happy sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

 

 

 

The Lilian Dress by Pattern Review

Hello everyone,

I am super excited to share this post with you as part of a blog tour for the newly released Lilian Top from Pattern Review. When Deepika reached out and¬†asked me to participate, I needed to see the pattern first and honestly I was hooked. Cap sleeves and a yoke are some of my favourite features so I was like “yes count me in. Plus I also loved the story behind the design. Here is an except from the designer Deepika:

Ever since I read about Lillian Weber, the amazing woman who sewed 1000 dresses to donate to Dresses for Africa, I’ve been yearning to do something to support this great cause. Dresses for Africa is an organization which not only clothes little girls in Africa, they do lots of other projects there, like building wells and community centers to improve lives of people in villages in Africa. And that is why I am dedicating this pattern to Lillian, hence the name. 20% of all sales from this pattern will be donated to Dresses for Africa. So when you buy this pattern, you too are joining me in this cause.

I read about Lillian Weber and I was so moved by her story that even though I was given this pattern for free I decided to make a donation to Little Dresses for Africa. Even if you are not interested in the pattern please read up on Lillian Weber Рits not often I come across such a such a positive and inspirational message.

Ok. So the Lillian pattern comes as a dress and top. It is described as a knit top or an a-line dress with a V-Neck Yoke and cap sleeves. I selected  the dress because I wanted something I could wear with tights and boots. I loved this pattern so much I made two dresses, one after the other. The beauty of this pattern that it sews up real quick.

The PDF went together beautifully. At only 16 pages, its ready to cut very quickly. The directions are quite concise and even beginners would feel confident to tackle it. There is even a Youtube tutorial on the trickiest part – the neck binding. The instructions have been very well thought out keeping this a very simple and quick to make pattern. I cant stress how quickly this sews up.

For my first one I knew I wanted colour blocking.  I used my colour wheel to select what are called split complimentary colours Рchoosing burnt orange as my main colour then the split complimentary colours are the 2 either side of its compliment Рdeep blue and apple green. I chose blue for the yoke because of the striking contrast with the orange.

For my second one I used some grey ponte and lace bonded ponte that has been in my stash for far too long. Actually all these fabrics had been stashers for far too long (stasher is a noun I use for fabrics that has been in the stash for over 6 months). So yay for stash busting :-).

I drafted the poofy long sleeve lengthening the cap sleeve to the desired length – in my case it had to fit the half meter length of bonded lace ¬†ponte. Once I had the length , I then cut and spread at 5 evenly spaced lines inserting about 4″ in total.

Constructionwise ,I stabilised my shoulder seam with fusible bias tape. I have found that this is the next best thing to twill tape for shoulder stabilisation on knits. I have used clear elastic and after a dozen washes and driers it begins to get slack.fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-635fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-625fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-622fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-621fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-669fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-668fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-667fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-617fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-616fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-651fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-645fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-655fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-555fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-538fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-579lilian-topfran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-572fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-590fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-595fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-594fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-521fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-524fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-528fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-558

I can easily see myself making loads more of these especially since I have seen some fantastic versions by the other seamsters on the blog tour Рthe possibilities are endless. There are plans to make a couple of summery ones Рam thinking of lengthening to maxi and sleeveless..it has a seventies vibe to it no?

Thank you for stopping by, tell me which you like better the grey lace on or the colour blocked one? Oh and here it is in (wobbly) action..

A Blog Tour

Want some inspiration? These talented seamsters posted about Lillians on their blogs this week, so be sure to check them out.

Oct. 24th Jstarr4250 (Julie)

Oct. 25th Sue Parrott – Blog – http://sue-parrott.blogspot.com/

Oct. 26th GoodbyeValntino (Sarah) – Blog – http://www.goodbyevalentino.com/

Oct. 27th ecs81 (Eryn) – Blog – http://www.stylesewme.com/

Oct. 28th creatingitgap (Margo) – Blog – http://creatinginthegap.ca

Oct. 29th beanchor (Bianca) – Blog – http://thanksimadethem.blogspot.com/

 Until next time РHappy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

Good things come in threes: A trio of Anna Dresses By Hand London Pt 3

Hello again everyone,

Phew ! Its Part 3 of my BHL Anna dress blog arc. Part 1 is here and Part 2 here.

This final dress was made in a viscose fabric I bought on Ebay earlier this year. It was one of those late night shopping things. The fabric is very light and breathable. Once I washed it – it was so completely off grain that I gave up after an hour of trying to tease it back onto grain. I just did the best I could. The next time I buy a similar fabric I will know not to wash it first. The shrinkage was very negligible as I recall. Anyhow moving on…

My little sister managed to squeeze us in for an overnight visit in between her globetrotting life. She was severely jet lagged the short time she was with us but we had a whale of a time – as always. She is my best fried as well so when she snuck a peek into my cave and mentioned how much she loved the purple maxi dress that was hanging on my door, I immediately offered the dress to her.

She tried it on and didn’t take it off for the rest of the day – I offered to take it in at the side but she was adamant she likes it the way it is. ¬†Being so tall and willowly she looks great in just about anything.

She obligingly agreed to a quick photo shoot using my phone camera (unfortunately big camera was out of action that weekend :-(.) WIthout further adue here is number 3….

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BHL Anna Dress back view
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BHL Anna Dress – V neck and no thigh split
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There is no neck gaping on this one ūüôā

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My little sister ūüôā
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It was fun being behind the camera yelling “Show¬†me fierce!”

BHL Anna Dress

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Its not often I get the chance to spend time with my sister but writing this post took me back to the lovely time I had with her. It makes me happy that she liked something I made and has added it to her wardrobe. Especially since its also something that I really enjoyed sewing up.

That concludes my Anna trio blog arc. If you read this far then I thank you and appreciate you. It has been fun for me doing a blog arc (especially because all I have to do is copy the previous post so all the categories and tags are already selected :-). I think I will do something similar in future….Speaking of the future, I have just one last summer sewing project to share with you guys then I will move on to the fall stuff I have been working on.

Thanks for stopping by and until next time – Happy Sewing all.

Peace and love,

Hila

Good things come in threes: A trio of Anna Dresses By Hand London Pt 2

Hello again,

As promised I am back with the second of three By Hand London Anna dresses that I made over the summer. I posted my first one here <link here>.

I bought the fabric from Leeds Market about a year ago- so it was a stasher (term I use for long term stash residents) for a long while. I am certain that it was happy to get out. I had brought it out to make a Burdastyle dress but seeing it again with the Anna dress pattern out Рit suddenly became an Anna. I had just enough to make this dress. Lucky for me the print inst directional so I could lay skirt panels next to each other. The fabric also has some stretch to it on the cross grain which allows for a nice comfortable fit.  Like the first Anna dress I finished the split and hem by hand. It was a pleasure to hand sew those finishing details.

The V neckline is possibly my favourite feature of this dress. However all did not go well in sewing it. ¬†Despite trying my best to stay the neckline using some stay tape – there is some gaping on one side. What’s annoying is I cant figure out where I went wrong because the other side sits perfectly flat…if anyone has any ideas please let me know. I tried loads of steam and clapper action to get it flat but I may have made it worse. Still – its a lovely dress and I will wear it regardless :-).

I love the blue of this dress so much. I even wore it to a wedding with my Morris blazer. My mother in law is not one to be easily impressed but for the first time she was bowled over when I told her I had made it (she was kindly babysitting for us so we could go to the wedding). That was a cherry on top for me. She doesn’t hand out compliments willy nilly :-). Pictures!

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BHL Anna Dress
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BHL Anna Dress
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BHL Anna Dress
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BHL Anna Dress – that pesky gapey neckline
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BHL Anna Dress
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BHL Anna Dress
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BHL Anna Dress Waistline detail
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BHL Anna Dress Back view
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BHL Anna Dress
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Such a lovely neckline shape – one of my fave features of this dress
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BHL Anna Dress
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BHL Anna Dress
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See how one side is fine and flat while the other has a wobble
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Close up of the wobble
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BHL Anna Dress with my mustard Morris blazer
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BHL Anna + Morris Blazer
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Yep! I like this dress ūüôā

And here is a clip of it in motion…

As always thanks for stopping by! I will b e back this time tomorrow with final one that my little sister adopted ūüôā

Peace and love,

Hila

 

Good things come in threes: A trio of Anna Dresses By Hand London Pt 1

Hello again,

One of my winnings from Indie Pattern Month 2016 was an Anna Dress pattern from BHL. This is a pattern I have coveted for some time. So when I got it I went a little bit gaga and sewed up 3 dresses in a row!

My little sister came to visit around the time I had finished them and she fell in love with one of them. She tried it on and I gave it to her. She looks amazing in hers – she is tall, willowy and graceful ( I am the shortest one in my family – a sore point with me!).

Anyway I love these Anna’s so much. I cant add anything construction wise that isn’t already out there. There is an excellent sewalong on the BHL website which is what I used, I didn’t read the instructions that came with it.

Its a fabric hog though. Printing it and taping it up was not that much fun if I had to be honest.

I did a muslin of the bodice after tracing the size 8/10 which fit my measurement. The fit was good. What I didn’t muslin was the skirt and it turned out to be at least 6″ too long – its only later that I realised i think its drafted for wearing with very high heels. I shortened the skirt and went on to cut out the second one in the V neck and the 3rd one in the V neck. I really like the V neck. I had to hand sew the slits for a neat finish. The seams were finished using an overlocker. The hem was hand sewn as well. A good chance to practice some of the new sewing skills I am learning from the Claire Schaeffer book.

Ok pictures and pictures….very picture heavy this post. I was going to do pictures for all three Anna dresses in one post but I was late with processing the pictures so I am presenting them as a 3 part blog arc over the next 2 – 3 days. This is the first one which has a lovely story behind the fabric. When I went to the Yorkshire Spoolettes meetup back in February , I had the pleasure of meeting Karen who blogs over at thesewingmiserabilist. She was wearing this wonderful dress made out of a beautiful crepe fabric – I fell for the fabric and she helped me find it at Fabw0rks. I bought it later but spent an age dithering over what to make with it. The fabric is so beautiful – the pictures dont do it justice – the rich deep purple almost aubergine background for the fiery orchids like print. It has some stretch on the crossgrain. I love the fabric and feel fabulous in it :-). In the end it was Anna!¬† Enjoy!

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BHL Anna Dress
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We only had sun for a few minutes during the shoot and the oranges in the fabric really come out
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BHL Anna Dress
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Anna dress Bac View – I love how it billows as I walk
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Invisible zip LIKE A BOSS!
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Love the thigh high split
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There are always kids around the photo shoot – I have become adept at posing quickly
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Anna dress – its a fabric hog. It requires at least 4 meters.
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The kimono sleeve
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Anna Dress
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BHL Anna dress Side View
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I also love the neckline – its very well drafted.
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Close up of the neckline.

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I even wore to London over the summer…

Thanks for stopping by and until next time Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Lekala 4026 New to me…..#IPM2015 Week 3

Hello everyone!

Happy days! More Indie Pattern Month shenanigans to share. For Week 3 the challenge is to use a new to you indie pattern.

Whilst searching for a Jumping into June jumpsuit pattern, blog pal Ali of Thimberlina recommended Lekala.

I did not find the jumpsuit I wanted but I did come across dress 4026. The shift dress has princess line seams and some pocket detail that I thought was cute. 2 clicks of a mouse and I had a PDF sent to my email. Putting the paper together was easy. The patterns have minimal markings and I like that. I decided to use a lightweight crepe pinstripe fabric. To break up the stripe I played with bias cut on the side panels to create an interesting chevron. This crepe has quite a bit of stretch on the bias.

I’m quite impressed the instructions. They were clear, logical and easy to follow. Certainly better than Burda downloads!

While cutting the side panels I did forget that there were no seam allowances however I was lucky because of the stretch the fabric has on the bias. It took 2 wrong cuts to get the correct grainline on the bias. I wanted the chevron to point up and not down. Got there in the end :-).

I finished all my seams in red.  Red contrasts nicely with the pin stripe. For armholes a simple baby hem by serging edge then topstitcing. I did not want it bulky so double fold was out of question. The neck finish is quite possibly my favourite! Made some bias binding (from the side panels that were cut in wrong bias direction) and used it to finish. Seams were also topstitched. I left out the epaulets and buttons as I wanted this to be something I can wear for work especially for meetings.

I am very pleased with this dress. I have worn it twice already to work with my Morris blazer! I felt pretty good.. Its very comfortable and it can be worn with a belt. I do like it with my red wide belt.

Lekala patterns are new to me. I confess I had not thought to try them because I was skeptical about the price. ¬†Digital¬†custom fitted sewing patterns for less than ¬£2? I thought they were too good to be true. However the fit on this dress is great. I did not make a muslin so there were no adjustments. I am extremely pleased with this dress and I will be making another in linen with the buttons and epaulets yeah! In fact I have also been browsing their extensive range of patterns and even bought another one ūüėČ

Enough text now for piccies!

Thanks to Monthly stitch guys for hosting #IndiePatternMonth. I am having such a blast with these challenges!

Thanks for stopping by!
Happy sewing.
Hila
Xox

Sewaholic Hollyburn Skirt

The Hollyburn has been tempting me and teasing me for ages now. I decided to bite the bullet and bought it during last year’s Black Friday sales when there were all those fabulous discounts! Yes I did not excersize restraint and I bought LOADS of sewing patterns ūüėČ But a seamstress never buys and tells!

In keeping with my sewing goals I  absolutely made a muslin first to check fit and whether the style suited me.  Basically I followed my own steps and voila!

Yep making a muslin helps! It took about 4 hours to make the muslin. By the time I came to sewing the denim it was a breeze. What was interesting was that since I sewed up immediately after the muslin I whizzed through the steps – they were still fresh in my mind.

The denim was originally purchased to make the Jalie 2908¬†jeans for The Monthly Stitch’s¬†Denim Never Dies Challenge ¬†but it became clear very quickly that I did not have the time to make jeans this time around. ( I did trace and cut the patterns for the jeans so at least some progress has been made towards those.)

I am so proud of myself for:

Рnot beginning the project until ALL the materials and notions were gathered,

– making a muslin,

– checking the thread tension,

– testing lightweight and medium weight interfacing on the swatch to see which was more suitable,

– testing the topstitching settings for the denim so it wouldn’t be wavy,

– doing a trial zipper insertion on denim to check if it needed a reinforced seam.

In taking all these steps beforehand, by the time it came to sewing it up it was such a pleasure and there were no bottle necks. Normally I loose momentum on a project when I reach a bottleneck , like realising the interfacing weight is not appropriate and I have to wait¬†till i have bought more, or the thread¬†doesn’t¬†match, or the buttons etc. So I kept up the momentum through out. That was quite a revelation for me!

More details construction.

I cut a straight size 8. The pattern sizing was pretty spot on. In terms of instructions – they were great, allowing me to have a very neat finish on my interior.

The only change I made was to cut along the foldline of the pocket and added seam allowances so I could use a different fabric for my pocket lining.

For the hem I staystitched along the bottom edge, turned it under and pressed so the staystitching was just on the inside. I then folded the raw edge under and stitched. So my hem is visible.

The invisible zip went in in one go – without a fuss unlike when I was making the muslin! I did some handstitching around the zip but its not the neatest. Something I will need to work on.

Now for some gratuitous photos..

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Obligatory twirl shot!
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It works well with a short jacket.

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20150129_150007 So chuffed with how neat my insides look!
Hollyburn Collage
Invisible zip and topstitching like a BOSS!
Hollyburn 2 Collage
A spot of handstitching.

 

The fit is flattering and I like the length. I have been wearing this to work dressed up with a shirt and at home with a T shirt. Versatile style that fits well into my wardrobe.

I can see why a lot of people have made this skirt and why its quite popular.

Until next time when I will blog my belated January Burda Challenge make – another skirt!

Thanks for stopping by.

 

 

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