Sleeveless Peplum Blouse BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114 #burdachallenge2018

BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B

Here is a pattern that I like so much I made several of them in succession! I like the simple look and feel of the pattern. It is something that I have had traced for almost 2 years but never got round to making it. It seems I have made up for that.

Sleeveless Peplum Blouse 07/2015 #114

Sleeveless Peplum Blouse 07/2015 #114

I have the tops in this Youtube video here

So I made it in the John Kaldor Lizzano sateen fabric first. The John Kaldor was something I fell for when my friend Ali (akathimberlina) showed hers on IG and I quickly bought from an online shop. Unfortunately, I can’t remember the name of the shop. Its beautiful vibrant fabric that I used to make a shirtdress the M6696 shirtdress and used leftovers to make some this top.

I managed to sew this out of just under a meter of fabric. The rest was used to make a sash.

BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B

The instructions tell you to insert an elastic on the waist but opted not to do that as I found (much to my surprise) that I like the free boxy look.

Instead of sewing the armhole bias binding in the round, here is what I did:

After finishing the neckline I sewed up the shoulder seams. Then sewed the armhole binding in the flat. Next, I sewed the side seams. I fell like this was far easier and neater than sewing in the round.

 

So when it came time to think about my #makenine2018 I knew that the barkcloth would look amazing in this pattern and I did not hesitate to cut into it. I love it!

BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B

I also had some linen left over from the Hollyburn skirt I made a couple of years ago and it was just enough to make this top too. Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures but you can see it on my Youtube channel at the link above.

And then I tried the longer non-peplum version of the top but with a few twists, i.e. adding a knit cuff neckline on a woven like I learnt when I made the Merchant and Mills Tee for my husband. It did quite work out though because I forgot to not stretch out the knit cuffing. I am so used to stretching it slightly when sewing but I needn’t have done it with this one so. It does do a bit of a puddle but never mind. The John Kaldor fabric is so comfy against the skin. I barely had 3/4m left from when I made the Sheath Dress.

Alterations

The line drawing shows that the back has a CB seam which means cutting 2 back pieces. I only did that with the first one. Subsequent ones were cut on the fold. It makes no difference at all because the CB is straight.

Size traced: 38.

Verdict – Definitely, a great top that I have no doubt I will come back to again and again. I had a think about which one is my favourite and………..its…………

Making my first print at The StitchRoom Sewcial, Loughborough University, June 2018. Picture courtesy of Lucy Regan, SewEssential.co.uk

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Advertisements

Cowl Neck Top 01/2017 #119 #burdachallenge2018

This was another unplanned make for my #burdachallenge2018. The idea for this developed after meeting the fabric. SO I will start with the fabric. This is a beautiful shiny viscose jersey with the most beautiful drape – it is like a liquid gemstone. I picked it up from Fletchers Fabrics in Leeds while shopping with my friend Eleanor. I bought 1.5m without any idea of what to make with it. It was only when I was shooting my Youtube fabric haul video that I realised what this fabric could become.

The pattern is from the Jan 2017 issue of BurdaStyle. Here is the line drawing:

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119

And here is the style picture 

The recommended fabric is silk jersey in order to achieve the exaggerated cowl neck. The instructions were easy to follow. The neck is finished in an ingenious way IMO. I handstitched the shoulder yoke facing as I didn’t want to topstitch. The sleeves are set in which is a little tedious to do on jersey fabrics but worth it in the end.

It came together quickly. The little bralet is a gem of a pattern as well. I used rainbow foldover elastic because I like it. The pattern calls for cutting out strips of fashion fabric otherwise. Technically this is the first bra I have sewn :-). I am looking forward to whipping up more of the bralets using scrap fabrics.

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top – The bralet on its own is a great pattern with a good fit.

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top Rainbow foldover elastic
Interior view of the back.
Handstitched inner shoulder yoke facings.
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top

I cut my usual Burda 38 but I felt like I could have gone down a size on this which is unusual.

Verdict – a great stylish pattern with the deep cowl. I think I could have done a better job with styling it though. I feel this was designed to be tucked in but in my pictures, I didn’t do that. It does make a difference to how the top looks. Its a lovely top though I doubt I shall be making another one any time soon – I might try it again in size 36.

Thanks for stopping by!

 

 

 

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

3 X BurdaStyle Magazine 09/2010 #121A #burdachallenge2018

Ever since I sewed up the turtleneck top from Burdastyle 09/2010 in 2016, I have been planning more variations in my head. You see, this top pattern is so easy to sew up and comfy to wear as it doesnt have a neck seam. Here is the line drawing:

121a_technical_large
Burda 09/2010 #121A

 

blog-pictures-coco-etc-281
Seamless neckline from my first 2016 version

 

To be honest with you I could waffle on but there really isn’t much more to add about this pattern that I haven’t already said here. So here are pictures of the three latest ones which also fulfilled my March #burdachallenge2018 goals.

BurdaStyle 09/2010 #121 – This is a crepe jersey that I picked up from a fabric swap at SewUpNorth
BurdaStyle 09/201 #121 – Fabric is a viscose jersey from Fabworks Mill Shop
BurdaStyle 09/2010 #121 – Quite possibly my favourite made of a viscose jersey that I bought from B&M Fabrics in Leeds Market.

So these have been in heavy rotation especially for layering in the colder months. Its been getting a bit warmer so for now they have been put aside until September. Isn’t it lovely to find a TNT pattern? I now have 5 of these 🙂

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Burda 05/2016 Bat Sleeve Dress #115B

This is another dress I made specially for a holiday to the seaside. Its from the May 2016 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. The style is called a bat sleeve dress. It may not be everyone’s cup of tea but I was intrigued by this pattern enough to make it.The pictures didn’t really do anything for me but it was the line drawing that grabbed me:

115-052016-m_large
BurdaStyle 05/2016 #115B

 

I have made it in ponte before here.The instructions were quite good – though this is very simply constructed dress made up of 2 pieces (front and back) and a neckband. You just have to finish the arm flaps before draping them over each other and securing with the neck-band.

I used a viscose jersey – very drapey and perfect for my purposes. I wanted something akin to a beach cover-up. Easy to to pop on and off. It did the job admirably! Here it is in action.

I definitely see more capelet dresses in the future. Its so quick and fast to sew up too.

Thanks for stopping by and until next time-

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Named Talvikki Sweater

I made this after buying the pattern during the 12 days of Christmas sale. It was a bargain at £5. Here is the line drawing.

talvikki_tech

My thoughts are that it is very quick to sew up and took one sitting to finish. The sleeves are very straight forward and there is no easing involved. The most challenging part for the beginner might be the mitred corners. The sizing was spot on and I didn’t make any alterations at all.

Personally I feel like the side vent is too high for a winter garment given that its supposed to keep me warm and cosy. With my poor circulation I would feel this gap acutely. In winter I wore it layered over thermal sweater underneath. The fabric is a wool jersey that I bought form Fabworks. It washes in the machine and I tumble dry it on low – that seems just fine. I have since washed this about 5 times now with no problems.

I plan on making this again in a cobalt blue wool jersey also from Fabworks but I will lengthen it while shortening the side vent.

The other issue was with my broad shoulder. though the fit is quite good there is some puddling under the collar and I had to do something like swayback adjustment to remove the pooling fabric.

may20201720blog20picture20124
Talvikki Sweater – Vent depth
may20201720blog20picture20120
Talviki Sweater – funnel neck detail
may20201720blog20picture20116
Named Talvikki Sweater – Sleeve
may20201720blog20picture20114
Pooling fabric at front neck base

may20201720blog20picture20106

It simple minimalist chic and quite appealing on gray days. I was a bit ‘meh‘ about it when I finished it but surprisingly found myself pulling it on a lot. Which can only tell me that I like it :-).

I will report back on the ‘neck swayback’ adjustment in autumn when I get round to making the second one. Thanks for stopping by!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

Vogue V9112

I actually first made this toile in June 2015 – I know because I have a log of the picture of the muslin.

Vogue V9112 is an asymmetrical seam detail dress design by Marcy Tilton. Loose-fitting, pullover, sleeveless dress has single-layer, pleated, stand-up collar, seam detail, side pockets, bias neck and armhole facings, shaped hemline, and narrow hem. Wrong side shows on collar and hemline.

Here is the cover picture:

v9112_02

….and the line drawing which shows all the lovely intricate seams:

v9112

I was put off this pattern by how much ease it had after making the toile. I cut the size medium based on the pattern size recommendations (this was before  I figured out the lack of finished garment measurements). Needless to say it sat around in the UFO box for a while then I picked it up again determined to fix it as I liked it in principle. However, I was very ruthless in removing ease and ended up with something that barely resembles what the designer intended. I am okay with that though as I made it work for me.

I took it in by a lot on the sides and the back seam. I omitted the pockets as this was a toile. Although now, with hindsight, I should have just added the pockets since its turned into something wearable. Being linen – it if of course lovely to wear. It’s the sort of thing I will throw on when its nice and hot and I want to be unfettered.

I will  be giving the pattern another go definitely – in linen again maybe with some Sashiko embroidery on one of the curved pieces.

 

150718_133103_collage-1
The original size was quite baggy on me.
may20201720blog20picture20098
Vogue V9112 Gathered curved hem
may20201720blog20picture20095
V9112 Collar detail

may20201720blog20picture20088may20201720blog20picture20076may20201720blog20picture20066may20201720blog20picture20058

vogue20v9112
Vogue V9112

The final result is something much more fitted at the bust and loose-fitting everywhere else. I finished the armholes with bias binding. The only thing I need to change now is the colour – I am thinking of dyeing it a deep violet colour.

Verdict – worthy of a second shot at it because despite the fit issues (based on personal preferences only) I still like it. I do need to remember to be careful when cutting it out as it is all cut single layer – I got away with it because I was using a plain solid fabric but with directional fabric I would have messed up.

Thanks for stopping by and until next time, happy sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

Echino Mod Mini aka Another self drafted skirt….

Hi everyone!

Allow me to present another self drafted skirt that I started on in 2015! I have a habit of starting a blog post for a project that has been cut out – that way I sort of have an idea of how long the project took to complete. Well this one has  been sitting at the bottom of my 32 drafts queue for a really long time :-). Still better late than never m’kay. The pattern is the same as this A Line skirt here but without the pockets and a tad bit shorter. Continue reading

BurdaStyle Magazine 10/2014 #105 Cowl Neck Dress Pattern Review

Hello,

Let me preface this by saying that this is possibly my most favourite dress ever! Don’t believe me? Check out this IG video….

Continue reading

BurdaStyle Magazine:Turtleneck 09/2010 #121A

Hello everyone,

Today’s post is a super quick one to share a very simple top. I made this from an old Burda magazine that I bought on Ebay last year. Here is a picture of it

121a_technical_large
Burda 09/2010 #121A

It so happened that I was looking for a simple roll neck pattern and before I went buying or drafting a new one – I decided to browse my growing Burda Magazine collection. So glad I did that because I had never registered this pattern before. I quite like that it doesnt have a neck seam – makes for faster sewing.

I had 1m of John Kaldor Isabelle wool jersey that I bought in June. I just managed to fit this pattern and I was left with very satisfying slivers of fabric that indicate a most efficient use of the yardage! blog-pictures-coco-etc-276blog-pictures-coco-etc-277

blog-pictures-coco-etc-279
Back view
blog-pictures-coco-etc-281
Seamless neckline
blog-pictures-coco-etc-283
love this roll neck
blog-pictures-coco-etc-284
The sleeves are extra long
blog-pictures-coco-etc-285
I love this fabric so much – I bought 2 more meter in this colour for a dress.

I love this fabric and I have bought 2 more meters of this colour to make a dress.

Construction wise it comes together very quickly. I did not make any alterations to the pattern. I didn’t finish the roll neck edge as my fabric doesn’t unravel. I set in the sleeves and though it wasn’t the best job – it doesn’t look too bad. I finished the hems with a narrow zigzag. The sleeves are meant to be longer so that they have a ruched effect – love that.

I want to make another in black and gunmetal grey. Its a great foundation piece for my wardrobe.

So this makes my 12th Burda make this year and my goal has been reached. Here’s to more Burda makes from me in 2017!

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

BurdaStyle Magazine 12/2014 #114B Seamed Jersey Turtleneck Top

Hello everyone,

Here is another Burda make as I race towards the end of the year in which I must make at least 12 Burda garments. I do really like BurdaStyle Magazine and I am keen to get a 12 month subscription.

This is from the 12/2014 issue and it was the featured sewing course pattern which is great because its the only one that Burda will hold your hand and walk you through the entire process (very nice of them). Here is the line drawing.

114-122014-m_large
BurdaStyle 12/2014 #114B

I cut my usual size 38 and it fits perfectly (a good reason why I am keen of getting my subscription on for 2017). I made 3 changes:

  1. The sleeve head. It was HUGE – I mean incredibly poofy and combined with my broad shoulder I looked somewhat ….odd. I reduced it by a good 2″ to get to this ‘poof’ which IMO is a good balance. The rest of the sleeve did not disappoint – am quite enamoured with the bishop style sleeve and exaggerated cuff.
  2. I cut the back on a fold instead of having a centre back seam.
  3. I omitted the zip – my ponte has enough stretch to go over my head without a zip plus I wasn’t keen on the idea of a zip against the back of my neck – its a very sensitive area for me and one of the reasons why my hair is almost always tied.

Fabric wise I used a ponte knit that was left over from a Marfy dress I made (post coming soon). I am glad I had enough of this left over as I love this colour! Its a medium weight ponte. The instructions call for stabilising the princess seams but I didn’t do that since my fabric was sturdy enough. I have worn this at least 3 times already and its holding up just fine. I did stabilise the shoulder seams though ( a standard procedure for me with all my knit projects).

blog-pictures-coco-etc-266
Burdastyle 12/2014 #114B Top
blog-pictures-coco-etc-268
Back view

blog-pictures-coco-etc-271blog-pictures-coco-etc-272blog-pictures-coco-etc-273

Overall its a good pattern and I like that its easily adaptable into a sheath dress or add a peplum and it becomes a cute flirty dress. Go sleeveless, remove the polo neck and it will work in summer. Yes – there will definitely be more of this pattern in the future.

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Burda 05/2016 Bat Sleeve Dress #115B

Hello everyone,

Despite the cold weather in October I made a dress from the May edition of BurdaStyle Magazine. The style is called a bat sleeve dress. It may not be everyone’s cup of tea but I was intrigued by this pattern enough to make it top of my trace and make list. The pictures didn’t really do anything for me but it was the line drawing that grabbed me:

115-052016-m_large
BurdaStyle 05/2016 #115B

 

It almost looks like a cape doesn’t it? Anyway I had bought this winter storms ponte from B&M Fabrics which I thought could work well as a autumnal dress that could be layered. It’s that time of the year where I start to think a lot about layering things so this seemed like a good candidate. I pictured it with different colour roll neck jumpers underneath.

The instructions were quite good – though this is very simply constructed dress made up of 2 pieces (front and back) and a neckband. You just have to finish the arm flaps before draping them over each other and securing with the neck-band.

Which leads to the only fly in the ointment with the otherwise easy & quick dress to make – the neckband is too big. I used the Burda dimensions and it sort of stands away from the body. I tried hand sewing it down but I needed a do over which I wasnt willing to spend time on.

This tiny issue aside – it’s a good neutral addition to my wardrobe. I wasnt too sure about the fabric when I bought it – but I got it because of my tendency to get bright and bold colours – its confusing but I am trying to diversify IYSWIM. Anyhow I digress…pictures…..

fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-793
Burda 05/2016 #115b
fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-794
Back View

fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-798fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-805

fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-808
Quite like that cape-y look on the shoulder

fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-809

fran-visit-plus-october-photoshoot-811
Erm………I know……Fine! I will fix it!

Worn with a Sewaholic Renfrew top

Will I make it again? – Undecided. Its warm when I layer it and its very comfortable – a good candidate for a Christmas day dress perhaps? I cant help but feel that maybe with a lighter weight jersey this could be truly lovely….. We will have to see.

So this is number 9 of my Burda Challenge. I have to make 12 Burda things by the end of the year to justify a subscription in 2017. So here’s hoping I can get 3 more done by then :-).

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX