Mens Hooded T-Shirt For Him, Drafted by Me

Honey, can I wear this sharks top?” He called out from the top of the stairs.

Sure you can babe. You don’t need to ask my permission, its in your closet” came my mildly annoyed reply as I hurried to get the laundry going seeing as 3 of the kids had wet their beds.

OK its just that it hasn’t been photographed yet for the blog has it?” with genuine confusion and concern in his voice and on his face as he comes round the door while pulling the top over his head.

I stop loading the machine to look at him and suddenly realise that he was right. I used to be manic in my determination to catalog every single thing I made. When I started the blog that was the purpose – to have an evidence journal of my creative outputs as part of managing depression. An easy to access record.

I relaxed my posture, “its all good now, I don’t have to do a photoshoot”. It is at this juncture that it occurs to me that I have matured in my hobby/craft/passion. Although strictly speaking there are 2 separate things here: sewing and blogging. I am aware that there are many (many) more people who sew and don’t blog about it.

I love blogging and I love sewing.

Maturity is when your identity solidifies a little bit and your energy levels reach a steady level point – nicely located halfway between having no sewjo and being panicked there is no time to possibly sew everything I want to sew.

Maturity means I now curate my fabric collection rather than add to my stash.

It means I mindfully add to my sewing pattern collection not just for me but for possible future generations.

Maturity means my husband is now allowed to wear a new off the sewing machine garment without waiting for photoshoots to be done first! That’s growth people!

But just for the fun of it – here is the hooded T-shirt I made him. Pictures taken on my phone :-). The pattern is self-drafted. This was the first go and it has a few adjustments to be made. He loves the upper half but would like it to be a narrower at the hem – something about it letting in too much of a draft. The next iteration will have cuff bands and a hem band.

The fabric was from Laura whom I have had the pleasure of meeting in person several times. She is just so lovely and please do go check out her small online business she started where she curates the fabric she sells (also reasonably priced). Her online shop is called The Fabric Magpie .

If you have been blogging for a while now do you find that your reason for blogging has changed? Or is it still the same? 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time,

Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

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Sleeveless Peplum Blouse BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114 #burdachallenge2018

BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B

Here is a pattern that I like so much I made several of them in succession! I like the simple look and feel of the pattern. It is something that I have had traced for almost 2 years but never got round to making it. It seems I have made up for that.

Sleeveless Peplum Blouse 07/2015 #114

Sleeveless Peplum Blouse 07/2015 #114

I have the tops in this Youtube video here

So I made it in the John Kaldor Lizzano sateen fabric first. The John Kaldor was something I fell for when my friend Ali (akathimberlina) showed hers on IG and I quickly bought from an online shop. Unfortunately, I can’t remember the name of the shop. Its beautiful vibrant fabric that I used to make a shirtdress the M6696 shirtdress and used leftovers to make some this top.

I managed to sew this out of just under a meter of fabric. The rest was used to make a sash.

BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B

The instructions tell you to insert an elastic on the waist but opted not to do that as I found (much to my surprise) that I like the free boxy look.

Instead of sewing the armhole bias binding in the round, here is what I did:

After finishing the neckline I sewed up the shoulder seams. Then sewed the armhole binding in the flat. Next, I sewed the side seams. I fell like this was far easier and neater than sewing in the round.

 

So when it came time to think about my #makenine2018 I knew that the barkcloth would look amazing in this pattern and I did not hesitate to cut into it. I love it!

BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B
BurdaStyle 07/2015 #114B

I also had some linen left over from the Hollyburn skirt I made a couple of years ago and it was just enough to make this top too. Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures but you can see it on my Youtube channel at the link above.

And then I tried the longer non-peplum version of the top but with a few twists, i.e. adding a knit cuff neckline on a woven like I learnt when I made the Merchant and Mills Tee for my husband. It did quite work out though because I forgot to not stretch out the knit cuffing. I am so used to stretching it slightly when sewing but I needn’t have done it with this one so. It does do a bit of a puddle but never mind. The John Kaldor fabric is so comfy against the skin. I barely had 3/4m left from when I made the Sheath Dress.

Alterations

The line drawing shows that the back has a CB seam which means cutting 2 back pieces. I only did that with the first one. Subsequent ones were cut on the fold. It makes no difference at all because the CB is straight.

Size traced: 38.

Verdict – Definitely, a great top that I have no doubt I will come back to again and again. I had a think about which one is my favourite and………..its…………

Making my first print at The StitchRoom Sewcial, Loughborough University, June 2018. Picture courtesy of Lucy Regan, SewEssential.co.uk

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Cowl Neck Top 01/2017 #119 #burdachallenge2018

This was another unplanned make for my #burdachallenge2018. The idea for this developed after meeting the fabric. SO I will start with the fabric. This is a beautiful shiny viscose jersey with the most beautiful drape – it is like a liquid gemstone. I picked it up from Fletchers Fabrics in Leeds while shopping with my friend Eleanor. I bought 1.5m without any idea of what to make with it. It was only when I was shooting my Youtube fabric haul video that I realised what this fabric could become.

The pattern is from the Jan 2017 issue of BurdaStyle. Here is the line drawing:

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119

And here is the style picture 

The recommended fabric is silk jersey in order to achieve the exaggerated cowl neck. The instructions were easy to follow. The neck is finished in an ingenious way IMO. I handstitched the shoulder yoke facing as I didn’t want to topstitch. The sleeves are set in which is a little tedious to do on jersey fabrics but worth it in the end.

It came together quickly. The little bralet is a gem of a pattern as well. I used rainbow foldover elastic because I like it. The pattern calls for cutting out strips of fashion fabric otherwise. Technically this is the first bra I have sewn :-). I am looking forward to whipping up more of the bralets using scrap fabrics.

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top – The bralet on its own is a great pattern with a good fit.

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top Rainbow foldover elastic
Interior view of the back.
Handstitched inner shoulder yoke facings.
BurdaStyle 01/2017 #119 Cowl Top

I cut my usual Burda 38 but I felt like I could have gone down a size on this which is unusual.

Verdict – a great stylish pattern with the deep cowl. I think I could have done a better job with styling it though. I feel this was designed to be tucked in but in my pictures, I didn’t do that. It does make a difference to how the top looks. Its a lovely top though I doubt I shall be making another one any time soon – I might try it again in size 36.

Thanks for stopping by!

 

 

 

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

What happened to my Me Made May ’18 Pledge?

I made a very bold pledge very early in April regarding Me Made May 2018 which was inspired by this article written by Simon Doonan How to Become a Fashion Eccentric

It went something like this….

I, Hila, of http://www.saturdaynightstitch.com, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May ’18. I endeavour to wear my me made clothes and be stylistically daring. I seek to wear my me made wardrobe in a way that celebrates the joys of my outrageous personal style as I try out being a fashion eccentric for the month of May. Daily OOTD on IG @saturdaynightstitch

When I look at my patchy IG feed when I posted my MMMay2018 outfits I cant say I saw any sign of being a fashion eccentric.

SO what happened? Well, I got busy with the triathlon for starters. When I made the pledge my training was not fully understood especially by me. I didn’t realise just how much energy and planning it would take to train for the triathlon.

You see, when I signed up for the triathlon I made a commitment to myself to really give it my best. I have a tendency to lose steam as I edge towards the end goal of endeavours ( a painfully realised shortcoming that I am working on).

So when my time priorities were being pulled in different directions – it was easy enough to put off training so I could take pictures and write the post and trace the pattern or cut out the fabric etc. At first, I would do this but upon closer reflection – it was an easy way to cover my ass if I didn’t manage to go through with the triathlon. I would be able to tell myself that I didn’t have enough time on top of my blog etc. Luckily my OH called me out on it and I realised that I have to MAKE the time even if it means other things get lower priority.

MeMadeMay was one of those things – I already wear my handmade clothes everyday anyway so it seemed like a fruitless mental space allocation when I could use that space for other cogitations.

One day I will start work on the #memadefashioneccentric hashtag. So, in a nutshell, I am not so sure that I will participate in another Me Made May again – one of my most used hashtags on my IG feed is #memadeeveryday and I think that’s enough for me.

Some of my IG posts during MeMadeMay2018

Thanks for stopping by!

Peace and love,

Hila

 

 

 

Peace and love,

Hila

 

Day & Night Dress Challenge 2018 : Simplicity S8045 & Burdastyle 02/2018 #101 Dress

I neglected to mention that I made 2 dresses for the Day and Night Dress challenge hosted by ElizabethMadeThis.com.

 

 

BurdaStyle 02/2018 #101 Dress

For my day dress, I decided to multi task by also making a dress for my #burdachallenge2018 plan for the month. The dress I chose was style number 101 from the February issue of BurdaStyle magazine.

The style was a bit outside my comfort zone given its vintage vibes. Normally the vintage I like tends to be the maxi variety. Here is the line drawing :

BurdaStyle 02/2018 #101

It was actually the line drawing that drew me to this pattern. The details were quite unique to me especially the lower skirt godet.

I used a fabric that I bought a while back on holiday abroad. It’s a peach skin that has the most glorious drape. My husband actually chose this for me – though I was sceptical of the Pollock-like abstract print – it worked really well for me. The only downside is that with the print it hard to see the design lines clearly.

With my usual Burda size 38, this fit right off the pattern sheet. The only alterations I made were to omit the cute but labourious self-faced buttons and loops on the sleeves and the lower skirt.

Sewing with peach skin was not as challenging as I thought it would be, which is a relief as I have a few other lovely peachskins that have been sitting in my fabric collection.

Its a very pretty dress and something that makes me feel quite charming :-). By the way, the instructions on this pattern were actually quite good.

BurdaStyle 02/2018 #101
BurdaStyle 02/2018 #101 Dress

 

Simplicity S8045

For the night dress, I had in mind to make something for a date night we had planned to eat out at a Cuban Tapas restaurant. So when I saw the red viscose jersey with a lovely surface sheen my idea of a little red dress was cemented.

I have sewn with this Mimi G pattern before here and had plans to make it again because I wasn’t happy with my fabric selection especially after a few washes. The sizing on this pattern was spot on and the drape of this viscose was better suited than the ponte I used previously. Its a sexy little number and I do feel like roaring when I am wearing it :-). The collar band that goes over the shoulders is quite snug and tends to roll up as seen in the pictures so its not as wide as shown on the pattern envelope. I think for the more endowed in the bust area that a toile is definitely recommended if you are thinking of making this pattern. Pictures-

Simplicity S8045
Simplicity S8045

Here is my video review of the two dresses:

The Burdastyle dress was my planned February make for #burdachallenge as well 🙂

Thanks so much for stopping by! Until next time – Happy Sewing!!!!

Peace and love,

Hila

3 X BurdaStyle Magazine 09/2010 #121A #burdachallenge2018

Ever since I sewed up the turtleneck top from Burdastyle 09/2010 in 2016, I have been planning more variations in my head. You see, this top pattern is so easy to sew up and comfy to wear as it doesnt have a neck seam. Here is the line drawing:

121a_technical_large
Burda 09/2010 #121A

 

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Seamless neckline from my first 2016 version

 

To be honest with you I could waffle on but there really isn’t much more to add about this pattern that I haven’t already said here. So here are pictures of the three latest ones which also fulfilled my March #burdachallenge2018 goals.

BurdaStyle 09/2010 #121 – This is a crepe jersey that I picked up from a fabric swap at SewUpNorth
BurdaStyle 09/201 #121 – Fabric is a viscose jersey from Fabworks Mill Shop
BurdaStyle 09/2010 #121 – Quite possibly my favourite made of a viscose jersey that I bought from B&M Fabrics in Leeds Market.

So these have been in heavy rotation especially for layering in the colder months. Its been getting a bit warmer so for now they have been put aside until September. Isn’t it lovely to find a TNT pattern? I now have 5 of these 🙂

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

Me Made May ’18 Pledges and what not

It nearly that time of the year again. Me Made May. Signs ups have started on So Zo’s Blog 

Here is my pledge

I, Hila, of http://www.saturdaynightstitch.com, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May ’18. I endeavour to wear my me made clothes and be stylistically daring. I seek to wear my me made wardrobe in a way that celebrates the joys of my outrageous personal style as I try out being a fashion eccentric for the month of May. Daily OOTD on IG @saturdaynightstitch

If you are curious as to what inspired this particular pledge then have a read  of  this brilliant (IMHO) article written by Simon Doonan How to Become a Fashion Eccentric

Peace and love,

Hila

 

Burda 6602 T-shirt Sewing Pattern Review #burdachallenge2018

Recently I discovered a new fabric shop in Leeds called Fabrics for All. I went there to investigate and came away with a bagful of fabric despite the fact that I had only gone to suss it out and get 2 pieces of Christmas themed fabric t make tree skirts. I was impressed with the quality of fabrics they had and seriously restrained myself from buying more fabric.

The selection of jersey was so good but when I saw this print – I knew that this had to be a T-Shirt for my hubs. His dinosaurs one get loads of wear and another one was due. He got really excited when he saw it – we are watching all the Star Treks – movies and TV series – as long-term goal together. 

Though I have a drafted a T Shirt for him I really wanted to try out Burda 6602. It has been residing in my collection for a long time. Burda drafting has always impressed me so I was curious to see how my drafting measured up.

I cut size 40 based on finished bust measurements. View C has the short sleeves and I managed to squeeze this out of 0.75 meters of fabric. I had no luxury of pattern matching.

The crew neckline is made using contrast black cuffing. The pattern does call for using same fabric but I like the contrast.

Burda BD6602 T Shirt Sewing Pattern

BurdaStyle 6602 T Shirt

 

The fit was perfectly spot on – I made exactly zero alterations. Sewing it took under an hour. If you are used to sewing T-shirts this is an easy make. I definitely prefer this armhole to the one I drafted using Winifred Aldrich’s book. It had far too mach ease.

I tried something new for the hemming by using the extra long zig zag stitch. Its something defferent isnt it?

Here is he is wearing for casual Friday at work. He loves his new top and what more can I ask for :-).

This is the first make of my #burdachallenge2018 March makes. Paper/PDFs/magazine patterns all count for the challenge :-).

Thanks so much for stopping by! Until next time, Happy Sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

Links used in post

Fabrics for All Haberdashery and Fabric Shop

Burda 6602 T Shirt sewing pattern

Burda 05/2016 Bat Sleeve Dress #115B

This is another dress I made specially for a holiday to the seaside. Its from the May 2016 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. The style is called a bat sleeve dress. It may not be everyone’s cup of tea but I was intrigued by this pattern enough to make it.The pictures didn’t really do anything for me but it was the line drawing that grabbed me:

115-052016-m_large
BurdaStyle 05/2016 #115B

 

I have made it in ponte before here.The instructions were quite good – though this is very simply constructed dress made up of 2 pieces (front and back) and a neckband. You just have to finish the arm flaps before draping them over each other and securing with the neck-band.

I used a viscose jersey – very drapey and perfect for my purposes. I wanted something akin to a beach cover-up. Easy to to pop on and off. It did the job admirably! Here it is in action.

I definitely see more capelet dresses in the future. Its so quick and fast to sew up too.

Thanks for stopping by and until next time-

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

BurdaStyle Magazine 10/2014 #105 Cowl Neck Dress Pattern Review

Hello,

Let me preface this by saying that this is possibly my most favourite dress ever! Don’t believe me? Check out this IG video….

Continue reading

BurdaStyle Magazine:Turtleneck 09/2010 #121A

Hello everyone,

Today’s post is a super quick one to share a very simple top. I made this from an old Burda magazine that I bought on Ebay last year. Here is a picture of it

121a_technical_large
Burda 09/2010 #121A

It so happened that I was looking for a simple roll neck pattern and before I went buying or drafting a new one – I decided to browse my growing Burda Magazine collection. So glad I did that because I had never registered this pattern before. I quite like that it doesnt have a neck seam – makes for faster sewing.

I had 1m of John Kaldor Isabelle wool jersey that I bought in June. I just managed to fit this pattern and I was left with very satisfying slivers of fabric that indicate a most efficient use of the yardage! blog-pictures-coco-etc-276blog-pictures-coco-etc-277

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Back view
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Seamless neckline
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love this roll neck
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The sleeves are extra long
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I love this fabric so much – I bought 2 more meter in this colour for a dress.

I love this fabric and I have bought 2 more meters of this colour to make a dress.

Construction wise it comes together very quickly. I did not make any alterations to the pattern. I didn’t finish the roll neck edge as my fabric doesn’t unravel. I set in the sleeves and though it wasn’t the best job – it doesn’t look too bad. I finished the hems with a narrow zigzag. The sleeves are meant to be longer so that they have a ruched effect – love that.

I want to make another in black and gunmetal grey. Its a great foundation piece for my wardrobe.

So this makes my 12th Burda make this year and my goal has been reached. Here’s to more Burda makes from me in 2017!

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX

BurdaStyle Magazine 12/2014 #114B Seamed Jersey Turtleneck Top

Hello everyone,

Here is another Burda make as I race towards the end of the year in which I must make at least 12 Burda garments. I do really like BurdaStyle Magazine and I am keen to get a 12 month subscription.

This is from the 12/2014 issue and it was the featured sewing course pattern which is great because its the only one that Burda will hold your hand and walk you through the entire process (very nice of them). Here is the line drawing.

114-122014-m_large
BurdaStyle 12/2014 #114B

I cut my usual size 38 and it fits perfectly (a good reason why I am keen of getting my subscription on for 2017). I made 3 changes:

  1. The sleeve head. It was HUGE – I mean incredibly poofy and combined with my broad shoulder I looked somewhat ….odd. I reduced it by a good 2″ to get to this ‘poof’ which IMO is a good balance. The rest of the sleeve did not disappoint – am quite enamoured with the bishop style sleeve and exaggerated cuff.
  2. I cut the back on a fold instead of having a centre back seam.
  3. I omitted the zip – my ponte has enough stretch to go over my head without a zip plus I wasn’t keen on the idea of a zip against the back of my neck – its a very sensitive area for me and one of the reasons why my hair is almost always tied.

Fabric wise I used a ponte knit that was left over from a Marfy dress I made (post coming soon). I am glad I had enough of this left over as I love this colour! Its a medium weight ponte. The instructions call for stabilising the princess seams but I didn’t do that since my fabric was sturdy enough. I have worn this at least 3 times already and its holding up just fine. I did stabilise the shoulder seams though ( a standard procedure for me with all my knit projects).

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Burdastyle 12/2014 #114B Top
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Back view

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Overall its a good pattern and I like that its easily adaptable into a sheath dress or add a peplum and it becomes a cute flirty dress. Go sleeveless, remove the polo neck and it will work in summer. Yes – there will definitely be more of this pattern in the future.

 

Thanks for stopping by and until next time

Happy Sewing!

Hila

XoX