Vogue V9112

I actually first made this toile in June 2015 – I know because I have a log of the picture of the muslin.

Vogue V9112 is an asymmetrical seam detail dress design by Marcy Tilton. Loose-fitting, pullover, sleeveless dress has single-layer, pleated, stand-up collar, seam detail, side pockets, bias neck and armhole facings, shaped hemline, and narrow hem. Wrong side shows on collar and hemline.

Here is the cover picture:

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….and the line drawing which shows all the lovely intricate seams:

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I was put off this pattern by how much ease it had after making the toile. I cut the size medium based on the pattern size recommendations (this was before  I figured out the lack of finished garment measurements). Needless to say it sat around in the UFO box for a while then I picked it up again determined to fix it as I liked it in principle. However, I was very ruthless in removing ease and ended up with something that barely resembles what the designer intended. I am okay with that though as I made it work for me.

I took it in by a lot on the sides and the back seam. I omitted the pockets as this was a toile. Although now, with hindsight, I should have just added the pockets since its turned into something wearable. Being linen – it if of course lovely to wear. It’s the sort of thing I will throw on when its nice and hot and I want to be unfettered.

I will  be giving the pattern another go definitely – in linen again maybe with some Sashiko embroidery on one of the curved pieces.

 

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The original size was quite baggy on me.
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Vogue V9112 Gathered curved hem
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V9112 Collar detail

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Vogue V9112

The final result is something much more fitted at the bust and loose-fitting everywhere else. I finished the armholes with bias binding. The only thing I need to change now is the colour – I am thinking of dyeing it a deep violet colour.

Verdict – worthy of a second shot at it because despite the fit issues (based on personal preferences only) I still like it. I do need to remember to be careful when cutting it out as it is all cut single layer – I got away with it because I was using a plain solid fabric but with directional fabric I would have messed up.

Thanks for stopping by and until next time, happy sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

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SWAP2017: An Over and a Lower

My SWAP has 4 overs which are :

  1. Fitted shirt in shocking pink.
  2. Embroidered fitted top
  3. Knitted red and white jumper
  4. White tie back top
  5. A ‘rogue’ dress

For this post I am looking at the pink fitted shirt and the yellow maxi skirt.

Fitted Shirt

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Sewaholic Granville and I got back a long way. See here <link>. Its a tried and true patterns that I love.

I had already seen the shocking pink fabric at the Shuttle in Shipley before deciding on the SWAP colours. Once my colours were settled, I was forced to go back to The Shuttle (I want to be clear on this – I did NOT want to go to a fabric shop but in the spirit of SWAP I had to – I was a reluctant  fabric shopper – those other fabrics followed me home – I was reluctant but I am so proud of myself for my restraint). Luckily it was still there when I went back and I bought 3 meters of it. Its  a stretch cotton sateen that was interesting to work with.

I cant say its been my best sewing experience ever. I found that the sateen had a strong needle memory and I couldn’t unpick the fabric without creating a visual disturbance. I quickly caught on though and started using wonder clips instead of pins where necessary. I also needed to use a walking foot to prevent it stretching out as I sewed. It also why I opted not to topsticth the button placket.

Because of the stretch nature of the fabric it is very comfortable. Pictures do not do this fabric justice. Its is very bright pink. As in incredibly in your face unapologetic pink. It makes me happy.

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For the maxi skirt I used the skirt portion of the Anna dress. I love this pattern and have made it several times already. The fabric was hard to come by. I wanted a really bright sunshine yellow. I did something I haven’t done before – ordering loads of swatches. I must say that made me feel very grown up indeed. I eventually found the right colour and weight from an Ebay shop called (apologies in advance to any brexiters reading this) EuroFabrics. Its a very beautiful high quality stretchy crepe with viscose fabric that has a micro texture. It has a bit of give on the cross grain which makes for a very comfortable wear.

I sewed up the skirt but while checking fit I realised that I wanted pockets. I try to add pockets where I can in a way that doesn’t interfere too much with the design lines. Because this skirt is close fitting at the hip, in seam pockets would not have worked. So I decided to draft quasi-patch pockets that attach at the princess seams. I felt like this was the most sympathetic addition of pockets.

I still have the option of cutting out the thigh slit but as yet am undecided. I quite like it as is for now. Initially the plan was to add a narrow waistband but I didnt like after the initial basting – it made it even  more high waisted that I was envisioning. So it was Petersham ribbon to the rescue!!!  The only fly in the ointment , however is that I did think it needed lining but when I wore it for pictures – I could see my panty lines – as I grow older I get less keen on VPLs on my own self. I have since bought some lining to add which is an easy fix. I will only line the upper third of the skirt. The other option is to go commando when in this skirt and……. mmm……..again as I get older I am less keen on the whole going commando thing 🙂

Pictures…..

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SWAP2017 Granville Shirt and Anna Maxi skirt

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So here we are reader, the first 2 of my 11 SWAP2017 blogged. Whats next? The orange skirt I think….undecided

Thanks so much for stopping my little corner of the interwebs. Until next time,

Happy sewing!

Peace and love,

Hila

Linen & Lace Simplicity 8215 Top

Hello everyone,

I had missed sewing with linen over the colder months so when I saw this pattern I decided to have a go with some linen that has been in my stash a long time. The lace used for the contrast was something I picked up from Bombay Stores in Bradford. It was quite costly at over £20/meter but I bought a half meter during their 20% off sale. The colour matched the linen perfectly so I knew I would use it for a yoke or something similar. Continue reading

KNITWEEK2016 Pt 5 Marion by Andi Satterlund

Hello chums,

Welcome back to my KnitWeek2016 series of posts. Part 5 is my Marion cardigan in mustard.  First I want to say thank you so much for all the helpful comments  on my previous post where I mentioned knitted garment fit issues. At least I know where to start now with all the resources mentioned.

Marion is a seamless and cropped cardigan with 3/4 length sleeves. The body is knit in one piece, starting with the upper back. The fronts are picked up from the back cast on edge, and everything gets connected when the underarms are cast on. Sleeve stitches are picked up from the armholes, and short row shaping is used to create set-in sleeves.

So, I have made this cardigan  before <link here>. It will always have a special spot in my heart as the first knitted garment I made for myself plus I learnt so much when I knit that first Marion. I still wear it – though mostly on weekends now due to the pilling. When I finished the first Marion I was determined to do it all again but perfectly right the second time.

Somehow other projects got in the way  but around June 2015, I decided that I wanted a yellow cheerful cardigan to go with the many navy blue items I was sewing up. This yarn also happened to be on sale at Loveknitting.com. Its called Drops Paris:  a soft but sturdy 100% cotton yarn. I was sold on this line “Spun from multiple thin strands, it creates a fabric which is breathable and cool to wear on those warmer days“. So I bought 6 balls in mustard. Its out of stock at loveknitting.com now but I did a quick google and found it at woolwarehouse.com.

Here is a copy of my Ravelry Project notes:

20 June. Cast on the small size. Last time made Medium and felt a bit loose. My gauge was off by half a stitch but I wont let that bother merelaxed. Hopefully it turns out ok. So far so good.
5 Aug 2015
Halfway through the decrease set. Going slowly due to lack of time.
20 Aug 2015
Argh! The armhole too big. have to unravel so I can repick at armhole using the smallest size. The yarn seems to grow with weight.
22 Aug 2015
Ok so I calculated I need to pick 46 stitches at armhole.

It used up 6 balls of yarn exactly. I was very excited when I started this project and it knit up relatively fast but I had issues with the yarn. I seem to recall that its quite a heavy yarn – I mean as the fabric grew – it sort of dropped a lot from the weight of the yarn. And it looked  droopy. I  really worried that the rope cable would not be distinct – it wasn’t a fun yarn to do cables with (I guess that why I should swatch the cable pattern as well – I made a swatch but just in stockinette). Initially the armhole came out far too big so I had to unravel and recast using the size for the smallest armhole. The instructions are very well written and easy to follow. There is a cable chart and written cable instructions – I cant read cable charts so I really like that about Andi’s patterns.

Again I lost steam around the time I bound off and it stayed in its carrier bag until October. Once I picked it up again it took me 30  mins to weave in all ends and set up for blocking. I wet blocked it and that transformed it. The yarn looked completely different once blocked. A note on this yarn – it had a lot of colour run and I had to drain out the water about 4 times before it ran clear.

I love it but I wont be knitting with this yarn again. It wasn’t as joyful an experience as I have had with other yarns. I checked out what other people use this yarn for and it looks like its mostly great for home interior projects, like tea towels, blankets and toys. Its a case of using the wrong yarn for this project. It doesn’t feel nearly as nice to wear as my brown Miette either – again because the yarn is not as soft.

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The fit isn’t too bad but there is still that swayback issue. It looks like I will be getting a book …or 2 and throwing myself into fitting knitted garments. Someone mentioned Amy Herzog and I have looked that up in the library and unfortunately they have none. Looks like it will have to be either Amazon or Craftsy. And in future I think I will sew buttons on the dress form for more accuracy.

I still really like this pattern and will be casting another one next year but I want to get the fit spot on next time. I like that the first one has so many errors in it but this one is a huge improvement. I am excited to knit the 3rd one – surely it will uber…..?

KNITWEEK2016 POSTS

Part 1: Organising my knitting stash

Part 2: Chuck Sweater

Part 3 : Antler Cardigan

Part 4 : Miette Cardigan

Thanks again for stopping by this little corner of the interwebs. Until next time Happy Knitting!

Peace and love,

Hila