Vintage Burda Patterns Pt 3 | Toile - saturday night stitch

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Sewing Vintage Burda Pt 3: Making the toile garment.

This is part 3 of my quest to sew with a vintage Burda magazine. It is a part of my series on sewing with vintage sewing magazines called #sewvintageburda2020. You can read the related posts about the sewing goal here, check out the vintage July 1969 Burda issue browse through that I am sewing this project from and the Ultimate Guide to Tracing Vintage Burda Patterns here.

You may also enjoy my video project diary that I made for my Youtube channel. In it, I share all the steps I take to make a toile, how to add seam allowances and what to check for in terms of fit. I also show the Sew Different fabric that I will be using for my fashion garment.

Here is the dress pattern I selected for the my voyage into the days of sewing past. There is a feeling of time travelling when I am working on this project. Dipping into the sixties and seeing the adverts and the lifestyle sections all serve to build a world in my head – a simulation of sorts. Its fun.

Vintage Burda Pattern — Burda July 1969 Dress 8107 – Sewing Pattern information

Burda 6/1969 Retro Sewing — Burda July 1969 – Dress #8107 All traced out – ready for making a muslin.

Here is the toile garment – first go without any alterations. I wanted to see what the fit would be like and in particular the ease of the garment.

Burda 6/1969 Magazine Dress — Burda 6/1969 Vintage Dress – the toile looks good – especially the front box pleat.

The armscye is notorious for showing up poor drafting. This is something I learned in Suzy Furrer’s excellent pattern drafting classes on Bluprint. I learned that it is better to have a pattern with a high armscye because it is far easier to take fabric out than to add to it.

Vintage Burda sewing - armsyce fit — Burda 6/1969 – See how the arm can rotate freely with bust not being pulled.

I drafted my own bodice sloper based on the couture moulage principles that Suzy teaches in her bodice sloper drafting class. The entire process took about 2 months wherein I learned so much. One of which was the knowledge that my armscye is not symmetrical – I carry more weight in my back.

The 10 Best Bluprint Sewing Classes Worth Buying in 2020

Burda 6/1969 – The armhole fit is near perfect for a sleeveless

This armscye drafting on this vintage Burda is excellent. It is on par with Marfy Italian boutique patterns that I rate very highly as well.

Retro sewing — Burda 1969 June – The side panel on the bodice.

Vintage Burda Sewing. — Burda 1969 Dress – The side view.

I am impressed with the fit – I feel like I do not need to make any more changes to the fit of the pattern. I will be sewing this dress up with Sew Different cotton linen mix fabric – Citrus Pebble. The citrus print looks very sixties and would suit this style.